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diesel engines are ok for low mileage short distance users, but you need to get used to the routine required and stick to it. i've a diesel caddy van 2 years old, 10.000 miles on the clock, so only doing 5,000 miles a year and all town driving ie short journeys . regens are every 180 miles or so, so after a regen, i set the trip to 0, i now know roughly when the next regen will be due. i use the vag dpf app on my phone, so i can watch the regen taking place before and after. The thing is with regens, you cant force it to happen, it wont happen until the dpf is 99 - 100& full, a lot of people think you can just take the car for a run every now and then and all will be fine, but it does'nt work like that, all you would be doing is wasting time and money by going for a run when it's not ready to regen. it can be a pain in the @rse at times, but you do get used to it. in my 2 years of driving the van , i've never had a warning light come on

A few from this evening.......

It's glued, clipped AND screwed in......makes no sense how it can become "loose". Strange U have this scenario.

Hi next step is to insulate tyres. All major tyre brands have silent version of tyres: https://www.goodyear.eu/en_gb/consumer/why-goodyear/soundcomfort-technology.html https://www.continental-tires.com/car/tires/continental-tire-technologies/contisilent https://www.pirelli.com/tyres/en-ww/car/tech-and-knowledge/pncs https://www.michelinman.com/auto/why-michelin/technological-innovations/acoustic-technology or DIY, here is an example from Estonia, to get the idea: https://foorum.vwklubi.eu/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=157346

Yeah thanks, no more bouncy bouncy haha So relieved to of sorted it now, much more like the car I bought

Have any of you just thought about wearing ear plugs instead of taking your cars apart?

Something has been puzzling/worrying me about the infotainment screenshots showing software versions in this thread .... Isn't this just the software version of the infotainment NOT the other modules in the car? If that's true, which I am 99% certain it is, then that would explain why some dealer software updates don't change the version shown on the infotainment screen - because it is OTHER modules (engine, ABS, etc.) that has been updated. The only way to know what has really been updated after a dealer software update is a before and after scan of all the modules in the car using e.g. VCDS, OBDEleven, etc.

She confirmed it with me when I psoted a few weeks ago. I wont be accepting my car back if it isn't fixed and it would still not meet UK Laws.

*Update* I've just returned from being measured up for the boot liner (estate) with the lovely people at Titan covers. Going back in a couple of weeks for a test fitting. If anyone does want one from titan, I suggest you order soon as the wait times might be longer than normal (I think they said around 20 working days). Awesome family run business. The gear they produce looks like sturdy well-made stuff all made in the factory here in Leicestershire. *Disclaimer* aware the above might sound a bit like an advert: they did give me a coffee and will be getting a free boot liner, in exchange for them getting the pattern of the Mk4 estate boot

It enables you to corner faster than Mustangs and "take them like a king".

Just a quick update I decided to take the car to yet ANOTHER garage further away from my home because the MOT fella didn't bleed my brakes properly twice so I'd lost trust in him. So this new place changed both front springs and said the brakes were still full of air despite me going back to the the MOT fella to bleed them and now the car is much much better thank goodness Thanks to everyone for the help and advice, It's much appreciated Tom

Project 4x4 fabia is coming along, bumpers and wings not in final position just positioned for effect

Hi all! My gf and I have a new-to-us Roomster 3 ('08, 1.6 petrol) with about 100k miles and 1 previous owner before private reseller. She uses it to commute and we use it on the weekend as our Weekend Warrior vehicle. We're climbers and surfers and we sleep in the back one or two nights practically every week, to maximize our time away from London. Mind you, I have no tools, and am hoping to keep what tools I do buy to a minimum, as I'll be moving house in about 10 months, and the less stuff I have the better. So, if I can do a job with a non-speciliast tool I'm glad to do that, even if it means I have to be extra careful. But if the risk to reward ratio is high, I will buy the specialist tool if I can afford it. I'm not quite living hand to mouth, but one bad month and I would be. Some things I've noticed and want to change or investigate. EPC Light/Engine Light randomly comes on, ABS and TPS randomly comes on, INSP signal randomly comes on, air bag light randomly comes on (get OBDII to learn/clear) previous owner thinks it's likely due to new battery he put in? dunno what that would have to do with all these things. Engine misfire/struggles to accelerate, especially getting on to motorway (spark plugs?) AC/Fan barely does anything on 1-3, and goes full blast loud AF on setting 4 (air cabin filter-engine air filter?) Passenger windows glitches and stops sometimes, have to keep clicking button to get it to go up all the way (take door panel off and grease or something?) strange creaking/popping sound when hard brake/hard turn (suspension? new brake pads and discs from previous owner and new shocks from previous owner) When I unlock the car with fob and open a door after a few minutes all the doors lock and then if I move in the car or close the door or open a new one the alarm goes off, but this stops if I just put the key in the ignition, even if I don't turn it to electrics or turn it on (I have no clue) Just need to learn how to change the oil and oil filter, tbh. The previous owner changed both just before purchase. Any other basic maintenance like this that I should know? Feel free to recommend. The first thing I want to do is buy a OBDII scanner. But most of the ones I seem to find on Amazon say they'll only give basic readings, but I think I found two that will give the advanced readings on my Roomster. I'm hoping someone can either confirm or deny this, and/or recommend me a cheaper or more reliable option. 1. OBD2 Scanner Bluetooth F600 Auto Code Reader for VW/Audi/Skoda/Seat Full-System Diagnostic Tool with ABS/Engine/Transmission/Oil Reset for iPhone & Android 2. NCEL VD500 Pro OBD2 Reader for Volkswagen VW Audi Skoda Seat Diagnosis Check Engine Light EPB ABS SRS Code Reader Oil Throttle Position Adaption Service Due Reset Tool Second, I want to replace the spark plugs. The car has been struggling on accelerations, especially getting on to the motorway, and it feels like there's a misfire (based on google and reading about these symptoms). I know I first need to get the VIN number and find out what plugs to buy. But then I also need a torque wrench, and I think a 30 size? Third, I want to change the engine air filter and the cabin air filter. I don't know when or if this was done, and the service book is with my GF currently. But I just imagine these aren't something changed very often. So, I think the tools I'll need are a hose clamp tool for the engine air fitler and a panel popper for inside, as well as a screw driver, correct? Is the panel popper actually needed? #4, 5, & 6 I have no clue about or where even to start and they seem, at this stage a little out of my wheelhouse. #7+ Oil and oil filter change seems like a basic thing I should learn, even if it's not needed right away (driven 3k miles so far since last oil change). What are other basic maintenance that I can do that will help us stay out of the mechanics shop? Thanks in advance!

I don't really experience any of this, as in there is some usual wind noise but nothing bad. Anyway it seems that you guys aren't the only ones suffering. There is even a dedicated thread to in on briskoda. For some guys it's small window seal issues causing it.

Exhaust fabricated, just needs a securing mount at the rear with a rubber bush to help dampen vibrations and prevent it from cracking etc (especially as a V Twin, and Hard Tail). Few small bits of welding, little bit of wiring, tidying and paint and she'll be back to it!

Trawl nets

You won't get more airflow, the stock system is already more than adequate, even for a modified engine. As is so often the case with kits like these, they move the air intake into the hot engine bay where it will pull in hot air and reduce power. You can rationalise all you want, but all you'll end up with is less power and a hole in your wallet.

Retrofitting a different Skoda steering wheel is easy, done it myself. I have a flat bottom steering wheel from a MK3 Fabia in my MK2. All it takes is a screw driver to unclip the airbag and a spline socket. Here is the tutorial I used It becomes slightly more complicated if you want to have Multi Function buttons on the wheel as it will need to be coded to work with your vehicle, shouldn't be that hard if you can get someone who knows what they are doing. Check out VCDS map to find forum members near you who can code it.

Have a look at the pinned posts in this section.

Thank You for all the information, I appreciate it. Elegance, gotcha. Sunroof is something I can live without as on some other cars I had it generated problems. Leaks, rust, maintenance. Are the ones on the Fabia mk2 alright? Estate is out of the question, the primary function being small city car. Musts for her are MFSW, Climate, Heated seats (or she'll kill me) and Fog Lights, if it would also have 4 electric windows that'd be ideal. Mileage does not scare me if the car has been properly serviced and cared for. Budget? 5000-6000e let's say. She seems to like the Monte Carlo Red version with the black glossy trim. It does look special! don't it?. Kinda sick of diesels and I'd rather have a petrol. The engine will not get long runs either. It will be mostly a city car. How's the 1.4 Supercharged in the vRS? Roger that, Thank You. How about retrofitting a steering wheel from an Octavia 3/4. I'm really not a fan of the old style Skoda steering wheels.

Provided it's a MIB2 Amundsen (2016 model year onwards) twice yearly free updates will be downloadable from both the Skoda portal and the VW Infotainment website for several years. Updates for the MIB1 Amundsen appear to have ceased with the 2020/21 update.

Welcome to the forum. Lots you have listed like issues with doors / locks (windows) will come up in this forum if you look through a few pages. Wiring loom at door. I am all for DIY and getting to know the car, going to evening classes on car maintenance when there is no pandemic etc, but when Money is tight enough to mention it can sometimes be worth getting a professional before buying tools. What i am suggesting is finding a Local Mechanic, maybe best a Man / Woman with a van, and see what they charge. So they can do a Mobile Service Person job and maybe you an ask can you watch. They will know how to read fault codes. You can see what they see, they can print the codes logged. You will see a little of how to do a diagnosis. They will know if an Ignition Coil is the issue. The plug change will be quick. The Air & Pollen Filter will be quick for them to do. Ask them if they want you to buy the Spark Plugs, pollen / cabin filter / Air & Oil Filter and the OIl, or if they want to provide them. You can get the car serviced, watch what they are doing, get told what more needs doing and what you can do yourself. Next time you might have all the gear and a bit of an idea. They will be jacking the car up as you would need to, be checking the bearing, brakes, steering etc at least with an inspection.

I already have them at home, only took 4 days to ship from Germany to Barcelona. Due to "reasons" I won't be able to fit them until mid July... can't wait!

No - it isn't - and I bet you'll now get down on your hands/knees and check it has been done properly. Even if the undertray is broken, replacement parts are not expensive. It is lazyness.

Sounds like a faulty solanoid for the lock mechanism, I would spend some time with some lithium spray grease and lubricate the locks, the door hingles and sliders to keep everything happy.

I like seeing the Australian population starting to see that Skoda are a great car. Why pay for an Audi or VW when you can get a Skoda and save money.

The most useful thing the VIN gets you is the build sheet showing all of the PR codes fitted.

The Octavia mk2 facelift range ended in 2013 and was replaced by the mk3 model so 2013 cars could be of either type. That said, a check on Thule's fitment giude for both candidates shows the same foot pack for either car - 7105 - which strongly suggests intercompatibility between the vehicles. More information available HERE for mk2 cars and HERE for mk3 cars. N.B. Your VIN will indicate which model of Octavia you are looking at - 1Z for a MK2 and (probably) NE for a mk3.

Let’s hope they are in stock! Had a B13 kit on order for about 8 weeks now and it will be an estimated 5 more weeks before they are made.

Yes, I agree. I was still working when I bought the car, but I've since retired. We used to take the car to Lithuania every year to visit SWMBO's family and friends but, for obvious reasons, we haven't been for two years. Last time we went away by car, it was for nearly 4 weeks, so it's good to have a decent sized car to carry all our belongings. I'll be 70 in September and had originally planned to buy a new car then as a birthday present to myself, but I deferred it for a year as the pension pot took a bit of a hit at the start of Covid, though it's recovered to its pre-Covid levels again now. So long as there are no major downturns before next year, I'll look at changing to petrol in 2022.

Like @sepulchrave I'm pretty sure this is oil being sucked past the inlet valve stem oil seals on overrun.

The oil smoke is the valve stem seals allowing oil to be sucked down worn valve guides when cylinder vacuum is high during closed throttle conditions.

There's plenty available, they're crazy money though, you might be able to get yours refurbished.

I went for the 280 as my budget simply couldn’t stretch to a 272 at the time. £20k for a 20k miles Sportline was my upper limit but I’m very happy with it. My biggest gripe is as you mention the 6 speed box cruising speed. You are doing 2.5k rpm at 70 and obviously if you cruise at even 85 (maybe illegal but not exactly unrealistic with most traffic) you’ll be doing 3k plus and it definitely makes a difference to the fuel economy. Obviously nobody really buys a 280 for economy but it has to factor in somewhere when you are lucky to average 30mpg with 99ron fuel and that requires behaving 90% of the time and not booting it. Previously I averaged 27.5mpg on Sainsbury’s 97ron but decided to give the shell v-power a try for a while, does seem to make a difference but 10p a litre more soon cancels that out. Boot it though and the smiles per gallon trumps all else! And obviously the original 280 has quad valves exhausts so obviously that’s better….

I have a company car on lease. My garage said that my car, 1.4 SE L Estate phev is 20k or 2yrs whichever is first.

Two posts merged to this thread.

Thanks again MartiniB. Bought and replaced. Thankfully SUK had one in stock; it only took about 20mins to dismantle and reassemble. 👍🏻

Had a test drive, and ordered my Enyaq 60 today. They said around 15 week build time. I wondered if that was a good estimate? They weren't for shifting too much on price at all, which wasn't a surprise. I'll take what I got . I did take advantage of the £28k interest free loan available in Scotland though, and will stick the money I get from selling my existing car some sort of saving account. Over the max of 6 years to pay the loan, inflation will also kick in, bringing down what I pay in real terms.

Another Aussie West Australia if I can read correctly?

The spec your looking for is Elegance, but even then they can vary as there was a lot of cost options. You don't say what the budget is..............but as example this has climate, sunroof (rare) MSFW, parking sensors and manual box..............not sure if you want an estate, nice car this "imo".... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224491995422?hash=item3444c4011e:g:W84AAOSw5JNgwT3D Diesel hatch............no MSFW but cruise, parking and climate.... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124712594900?hash=item1d09732dd4:g:cawAAOSwO7FglN5M

Retrofitting climate control is not a good idea financially or logically, you need to take most of the front end apart. Fabias aren't really that expensive so you might as well just buy one with the spec you want.

Holy thread revival. Just fitted a ITG carbon induction kit to my Seat Ibiza SC twin charger. Was ment for a Ford RS and is bigger than the usually item. £140 brand new old stock, I member when these where like £400. Need to get a badge to cover that Ford etching lol. Rated to 480 bhp. I have plumed it in with a custom bracket and old trumpet from a Piper cross viper, I love recycling old stuff :D. It fits nicely retaining original updated breather induction pipe. Hope you like. Cheers. Sounds lovely not too load more response and power.

I've definitely seen those before, probably the Bjorn Nyland or Autogefuhl reviews when it was first reviewed. Seems to be the Enyaq is worth a bit extra over the ID.4 as the interior is more premium. However, every review is a top spec. vehicle so far, so I'd expect that.

Oh right yeah that's a possibility 👍

Thanks for the advice everyone! Just ordered the bed module from simple campervan conversions and the decathlon tent as recommended..will let you know how I get on and will post some pics!

I updated my Bolero yesterday and thought I would share my experience. I searched the Internet and only got bits of what to do and not fully. What you need An SD card formatted in FAT32 The update file. A pc laptop with an unzip programme. I started by downloading the update file to my laptop. I initially used winzip to unzip the files but I later found that didnot fully work. So I used a programme called 7zip. Free to download and easy to use. I followed a lot of posts on various forums that said you unzip the file to the root of the SD card. What it doesnt say is that you need to copy the contents of the folder and not just the folder itself. (Once unzipped) So for me that was click on MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0253T. That will open and there will be lots of folders including a .txt file. Copy those directly onto the SD card. I initially unzipped the file directly to the folder and not the contents. That just left that one folder on the SD card. So when I did the update it didn't work and got stuck on the emergency bootloader screen. I thought I had bricked the radio as it would not read any files. That was until I did the above, then it worked fine...phew!! I accessed the update screen by switching on the radio. Inserting the SD card. Holding down the menu button and selecting update. That then starts the process off. It took about 30 mins in total and you can do it with the engine switched on. The file updated 89 modules. Afterwards I had a B021A fault code on the multimedia 5f control unit. No matter what I did it would not delete. So I researched this and realised you need a new hex code to get the update accepted. After some research I came across a website which helped. http://mib-helper.com/im-so-xory/?key=948 Using VCDS or OBDELEVEN you go into 5f control unit. Adaptions and then look for Confirmation of Installation change. Click into that and that shows a key. Normally 4 letters or figures. Mine was 3 numbers. You then copy that key into the link above and that generates a new hex key. Go back to the adaptions and enter that new key in place of the old one. Save it and the fault code will go away. I hope it makes sense the way I have written it and thought it may help someone out who got a bit stuck like me.

Absolutely! Both DCC and TC in Sport. I'm surprised the anti-roll bar ambassadors are still not here.