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There's a joke there somewhere....sorry, couldn't resist! I'll get me coat...

The seats and carpet are in! Just got home from work (easiest place to carry out this job) It has been an absolute joy removing the very tired and worn grey carpet and replacing with a black variant from a mk4 golf. Along with a set of Recaro heated leather front seats, rear bench, and a leather armrest also from a mk4. A fairly straightforward job made easier by using the many guides and information found on this forum! It's improved the look of the cabin massively and the seats are much more supportive than the original seats. Next on the list is to wire up the heated elements and get them working via the original switch I fitted where the blank used to be. From what I've read I need to get a loom from Kufatec, and a relay and then link it all up!

My understanding is that the HT coil secondary winding for a pair of cylinders is not 'earthed'. One end of the winding is connected to one plug, the other end to another plug, hence those two plugs will be working in opposite polarities.

From back of cluster....

Just checked on the Ateca brochure. Unless I've read it wrong, all colours including Velvet Red are considered standard in the price of the car. All colours apart from 3 are only available on 4 of 6 trim levels, missing FR and FRS spec. Velvet Red standard price on all 6 trim levels.

Don't know if this will help but when i changed mine on my MK2 i cut the old lever part off inside the car used some strong steel wire and tape and attached the nipple end of the new cable to the cut cable of the old one inside the car then removed the rubber under the bonnet in the fire wall and pulled the old cable out while a friend fed the cable from inside the car this worked for me a bit of a fiddle but better than trying to take out aor bag

Worst bit is when she keeps scaring me saying “bear left”

Hello, Does anyone else have a rattle from their front Dash airvent? I can see a bit of movement in mine. Holding my hand on it when driving stops the rattle

Hose them out and hang them on the line, I scrub 'em with a bit of car shampoo too.

There are a few threads about this on here and most seem to bevdue to strut failure. I think a few owners have switchedv to gas struts given the electric ones are so expensive.

There should be two clips, one each side, on the edge nearest the seat. Just pull the mat up and it will unclip.

I'd assume that the struts are linear actuators or something of their ilk rather than gas struts. Given the crunchy sound that come from mine (they sound like they've been lubed with sand and salt) they're definitely not being filled with gas

Excellent work! Nicely done. Heated seats for the win in winter. 😌

If the sealant looks sloppy around the cam chain covers its likely the chain has been changed, hopefully for the latest full upgrade kit including latest hydraulic tensioner. Very common on early CBZA/CBZC engines. Watch out for loud prolonged machine gun rattles on cold starts, switch off immediately and then try a restart. Indicates the hydraulic tensioner has backed off and/or chain is stretched. High possibility of the chain jumping on the bottom sprocket or even coming off completely. Early revisions of the chain drive were both poor in design and of poor quality. So a revised design introduced over the course of 2012. More details elsewhere on this forum. A slight rattle that only lasts a second or so is nothing too much to worry about. You get that even with the revised kit, but even then I'm inclined to switch off immediately and restart to allow the chain to align. Usually its nice and quiet on a restart. In any case, avoid forcing the engine backwards, e.g. parking facing uphill in a forward gear. This pulls the return side of the chain into tension and stresses the tensioner which can slip back and even strip the internal ratchet and push it back and the chain goes slack. So if you must park in gear then, if facing uphill, select reverse, or downhill, select first. Hope you understand the reasoning. Another thing to check is whether the small PCV valve (about £16) has broken off. Situated in the back of the camvcover near the right, gearbox end, often found hanging on the rubber hose attached the airbox. Again common on earlier engines and more detail available on this forum. Check the ignition leads all read the same resistance (OE cables in 2011 are 9k ohm), reason being that cable to No.3 plug specifically often goes open circuit due to heat damage but the engine continues to work normally due to sparking internally, however this results in highly elevated voltages at the coil pack which then eventually breaks down. New coil pack and leads are not that expensive (avoiding the dealer) Later engines are fitted with leads that have corrugated sheathing called "marten protection" which also conveniently protect the leads from excessive heat. Otherwise, an excellent engine. (I shan't mention turbo actuators, I don't want to frighten you unnecessarily)

You're right, the ride is really impressive, it's better than an old Golf MK5 that I had which was a really nice ride. It's also the reason I bought it. With just having a baby we wanted something that would be ideal for the family which this definitely is.

Yeah, cluster can't be swapped without having the immobiliser programmed.

Also most GSM phones can make 999/112/911 calls without a SIM card or wi-fi connection its part of the 112/GSM protocol/agreement...& I climb in many places in the UK where you have very little if any mobile phone signal...so if you have to then walk a few miles to get a signal how the hell do you know where the original accident scene is if relying on this app as many phones use A-GPS...(assisted via the mobile phone signal). Still can't beat traditional map reading/compass skills, & a standalone GPS...I mean they are only £75 for a basic Garmin etex10 Garmin eTrex® 10 GPS | Blacks ^^^^^^...WTF!!!......I thought their fancy software was designed to avoid that & similar combinations would place you on the other side of the globe, so it would be obvious which of the similar combinations would be the correct one.... Just proves its a marketing exercise...

Excellent idea!

Behind the glovebox, Jim. The red rings are around the tabs you need to lift to tilt the cover down and lift out out the locking tabs at the bottom. Removing the glovebox isn't as difficult as everyone warns you it is. It's just a bit fiddly to re-fit the damping lever. The video I've linked to tells you all you need to know. (Taking the side panel off is easy enough if you have a spudger.)

Your car has a waste spark ignition system. This fires spark plugs in pairs, 1 and 4, then 2 and 3. Electrically one plug gets a positive sparking voltage, the other in the pair gets a negative sparking voltage so current flows in opposite directions in the two plugs. Because of this, electrode spark erosion wear is greatest at the tip in one plug and at the ground electrode at the other. The plugs have an iridium alloy tip, which are incredibly tough and suffer very little wear, but the ground electrode has a welded platimum alloy disc, which is less tough, and after a while the disc often becomes detatched and you are down to the steel ground electrode to take the spark errosion. The rusting on the bodies is due to an external problem, water from somewhere. Looks and could be serious, it is not normal. Is the heat shield removed? Looks like a leak from somewhere in the vicinity, as the turbo is water cooled, check for leaks around the stainless pipes that feed water into the turbo. Alternatively it may be just because of their age. 10 yrs is a long time. Maybe you had a period where the car was subjected to lots of water or stood for a long while. Just monitor the replacements.

Hiding behind that giant billboard of paste is the interesting bit, look at the torque difference between the BNM and the ANF/BNV, this suggests a completely different turbo boosting harder earlier in the rev range on the later cars so not just a remap I would suggest.

Welcome. There are a few threads on the subject in Octavia & Superb sections. Here are a couple. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/367952-child-seats http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/469924-2-child-seats-and-2-adult-passengers-in-a-superb Lots if you search are 3 child seats in rear and good on the width available.

Model Years Engine and code Displacement Power Torque Diesel 1.4 TDI 6V 2005–2007 I3 BNM 1422 cc 51 kW (69 PS; 68 hp) at 4000 rpm 155 N⋅m (114 lb⋅ft) at 1600–2800 rpm 1.4 TDI 6V 2003–2005 I3 AMF 1422 cc 55 kW (75 PS; 74 hp) at 4000 rpm 195 N⋅m (144 lb⋅ft) at 2200 rpm 1.4 TDI 6V 2005–2008 I3 BNV 1422 cc 59 kW (80 PS; 79 hp) at 4000 rpm 195 N⋅m (144 lb⋅ft) at 2200 rpm https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Škoda_Fabia#Engines SKODA FABIA 6Y 2003-2005 1.4 TDI 55 kW / 75 PS, 195 Nm (standard) performance increase Displacement 1422 cc Torque 235 Nm at 2200 rpm More efficient 24 HP / 18 kW, 40 Nm Top speed 168 km / h https://www.dtintecno.de/cars/1-4-tdi-55-kw-75-ps:6047 SKODA FABIA 6Y 2005 - 2007 1.4 TDI 51 kW / 69 PS, 155 Nm (standard) performance increase Displacement 1422 cc Torque 190 Nm at 2000 rpm More efficient 26 HP / 19 kW, 35 Nm Top speed 166 km / h https://www.dtintecno.de/cars/1-4-tdi-51-kw-69-ps:6046 SKODA FABIA 6Y 2005 - 2007 1.4 TDI 59 kW / 80 PS, 195 Nm (standard) performance increase Displacement 1422 cc Torque 235 Nm at 2100 rpm More efficient 24 HP / 18 kW, 40 Nm Top speed 175 km / h https://www.dtintecno.de/cars/1-4-tdi-59-kw-80-ps:6048

I've just seen a post in the MK4 vRS group on Facebook saying that they've loaned their car to Milltek for exhaust development. 👍

Same for me, them only way I know that it has is that there is an eco light on the display.

None on mine at all. Very smooth.

The CCZA is an EA888 engine the earlier engine is EA113 , pcv delete kits are expensive for the EA888, If you suspect a PCV related fault, Replacing the PCV for the newest AJ part number is the best bet. I replaced mine and its improved the drive, mine was the factory original from 2011. However, I'd always advise against throwing parts at something hoping it will cure it. If you can, check for stored fault codes, if the engine light comes on when the issue happens, hopefully it has stored the code. If you don't have access to a reader or someone who does, You may be better off spending the money on a proper diagnosis by a vw group specialist or dealer

A lesson I've learned is that it's much easier to order the G13 or G12evo premixed rather than concentrated. It's a pain in the backside trying to find demineralised water without being charged an arm and a leg.

Last night's sunset, as seen in the wing mirror!!

That's interesting, I didn't know that. That said, if I could afford an Edition I'd probably have bought an XC40 instead. The point is that even a poverty spec Ateca has metallic paint at no cost. It wipes out the small difference in cost between two cars of comparable spec. Whichever way you cut it, charging that much extra for paint is pulling your pants down.

yup, mechanism is the same for all of them. middle, push in, twist, pullout

Thanks for your reply. That may indeed be the way to go. You presumed right, I have to jiggle main light switch. I noticed now, that when I turn the lights OFF, then the right fog light is actually lit. I hope that switch is easy to remove! VW Polo seemed to have mechanism for easy removal - I hope that applies to Octavia 2 too.

That's a presentation from Jan 2018, but yes, it does say it's just for the A7 & A8 but the intention was to roll it out to other vehicles. I suppose a knowledgable tech might be able to clarify things.

Air leak somewhere, take the pcv off and check for splits. Could also be a split hose

I've bought a chinese multimedia box which lets you watch netflix, iplayer etc, play android games and use any other android apps you would like to install on it. for some reason on the enyaq you need to delete it from your bluetooth devices when you stop using it or there will be no audio next time you try to use it. Not a major issue as it detects it quickly the next time you plug it in to the USB port. Very handy if you're at a charger or (as I was here) waiting for someone.

No, the ABS fault would not cause a flat battery, but a flattening battery can manifest itself as an ABS fault (personal experience with a sticky alternator clutch).

My old Octavia MK2 Elegance (2005) was great did 100k in it (1.9PD). Tin worm has eatent it at bottom of doors and sills. Plus many other little issues adding up to a lot of cash to fix. So - I bought a 90k Superb 2 Elegance 170 Estate. Claret with cream Leather interior. In excellent condition. Got a few things to do to bring it up to spec. Full service history and everything works so far. I also have a 2017 Yeti 150 SE L and the ride is a fair bit softer in the Superb. I have a vagcom so made good sense to stick with Skoda. Gonna have a good look round tomorrow and find all the hidden gems.. Dammit forgot to look for brolly! Browsing all the Superb info here.

I'd be surprised if extended idling causes damage to the engine. However if the DPF does go into regen mode then the revs will rise and fuel pumped into the catalyst to raise the temperature to over 400 deg C to burn off the accumulated carbon. There may may well be a smell in the cabin and if you have parked on dry grass then there is the risk of fire from the hot exhaust. May sound spectacularly alarmist but it happened to a BMW diesel police car here in Australia. They had stopped a speeding car and left their engine running having pulled over off the road while they 'interviewed' the speedster and then looked back to see their A$150k car in flames and eventually gutted. I tend to agree that what you are doing sounds hardly best parenting practice. Then again I was useless at it but my wife was brilliant at bringing up our two

I’m assuming you’re talking about a young child in a car seat if they’re sleeping and you’re too scared to wake them. In which case, as well as damaging the environment you’re also risking damaging their spine if you leave them in a car seat for extended periods. Better to get them out and let them sleep somewhere more suitable: https://www.leedsth.nhs.uk/a-z-of-services/leeds-maternity-care/news/2017/08/18/useful-advice-on-baby-seats

That's a dangerous request in these strange times. The male voice could be a female voice self-identifying as a male voice, but whatever voice you get will send you up the same blind alleys. No offence intended to any persuasion at all !

@mustang86 By a 3 year service regime on the Haldex it should have been properly serviced 3 times. By a 30,000 mile interval we have no idea. At least 2 services carried out on the Haldex would have been nice. You need to find out the state of the Haldex and if working, if serviced or needing serviced or more than that.

Not all strictly today mods but all recent! -Rieger front splitter, side skirts and rear diffuser. - RS6 replica rims wrapped in 255/40 R19 Michelin Pilot Sport 4S rubbers - TVS Engineering ECU and TCU Stage 2+ tune -Personalised plates CZECHM4TE -Shevron dashmat -Few OBD minor mods, 5 blink comfort signal, auto stop/start off, improve throttle response - Paint correction and ceramic coating - Skoda white front door puddle lights

Rescue and emergency services do not rely on W3W, but will use whatever data the caller can give them. If W3W is the location system the caller has, it gets used. W3W is millennials re-branding a concept and thinking they have another new idea again. The better system in the UK is still the OS 6 or 8 figure grid reference as it places you precisely on a ubiquitous mapping system that is used by all rescue services. It is always available with no reliance on batteries or signals as it is carried in paper form very easily. Anyone out on the hills should carry the OS map for area and know how to use it. Sadly technology has made folks think this is obsolete. Instead of W3W app, folks should have the OS Locate app on their phone, which generates the exact grid reference of the location. I have used it to summon an ambulance to a remote road. They found us quickly and with no confusion.

In age order... G12++, G13, G12evo 😉 If your car says G13, you should be topping up with either G13 or G12evo. G12++ is compatible but you may have reduced corrosion protection.

My experience of a passenger in my 2016 Alhambra 2.0 TDI DSG pulling on the e-Brake by mistake at about 30 mph in town on a wet road was the arse was pulled along the road like a dog wiping its rear end. Then my error when looking for £1 coins in the Airport Drop off point & pulling on the e-Brake at about 15mph on the concrete floor. One £1 coin was in the e-Brake bit. I was fishing it out while driving. Again the wheels locked at the back and lot of people looking to see what the noise was all about.

Most mountain rescue teams use a SMS based system that locates you if you have no data, or a dumb phone, or are in a poor signal area as text needs barely any signal. And see why it isn't as good as W3W say it is:- https://w3w.me.ss/ Basically it uses plurals/similar sounding words, and they can be closer than you'd think, and not in a different continent or is that difference continance? and anyone with a lisp is struggling, anyone who can't read or speak well is struggling, better than nothing but flawed. All recent smartphones send their location automatically when you dial 999/112/911 why do we need anything else?

With no history, just delete the fault. It may be an old fault that's already been fixed. The time to worry is if the fault recurs.

Hi Noms. From my experience I had no major problems with my order. I ordered the badges around August last year. They took about 2 weeks to arrive. There were no additional costs, as I paid the quoted price on their website. However, the badges from Superskoda are fairly expensive, but they do look quality, not rubbish Chinese knockoffs. They did make one mistake with the order, giving me a bolt on front VRS badge instead of the glue on one I ordered. This they exchanged once I sent the bolt on one back. When you take your own front glued on badge off, make sure you warm the badge up first. Soften the glue and then you have to give the badge a fairly good pull to get the thing off. I then used araldite glue to put the new one on after I roughened up the plastic surface first. Just get the badge straight mate!