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Hi Folks, my summer trip is over. We did 4500 miles from East of the UK to Newcastle, (ferry), Amsterdam, Berlin, Warsaw, Gdansk, Warsaw, Gdansk (you can see the pattern), Warsaw, Amsterdam, (ferry), Newcastle, home. We got almost fully specced IV60, three people on board and a hell of luggage (because we haven't seen our families for almost two years). Long story short: I would buy this car again. Long story longer: I would also modify the spec. So from the start. I love how this car looks, in-and outside. Let me say that Newcastle border officers were so amazed that THIS is Skoda that they completely ignored the fact that we were carrying WMD (7yo with an urge to resume his Rammstein playlist). At every single charging point (If we were not alone), someone was there with questions. It looks crazy good. Now, interior. We selected Lodge to have a bright eco-friendly (as much as possible) interior. I love how the fabric knee rest stays soft and cool on extremely hot days (yes, sometimes I am driving in shorts). I used to hate front cupholders, I am still unhappy, but thanks to a really spacious driver zone, I can live with door pocket bottle holders. The rear bench... well, I can just tell you that thanks to EV architecture and no middle tunnel it's marvellous. I can sit behind myself without any problems and I can switch Isofix mounting while being inside instead of running around the car. top three packages that you 'must have'. 1) driver assistance - OMG. I love it. really, got the Plus version, this greatly reduces your fatigue on the motorways. All you have to do is to control the environment and squeeze the wheel every 45-60 seconds. Other than that it's almost an autopilot (on motorways). Two negatives: sometimes the system reads speed limits from the past (roadworks?) or from the road above/below. Trust me you don't want to feel an emergency stop to 60 km/h while you were going 164km/h. The second, system is VERY lane centric, so if some safe-distance-sceptic driver wants to cut in front of you, your car will start to slow down only when his beemer hit the middle of the lane. too late. Same case with bikers. The system tends to completely ignore them if they are overtaking you by going next to the edge. 2) light and view - IF you plan to travel at night this is 'night and day' (sorry, I had to). The lights are amazing. One weak spot. IF your motorway got mid-size lane separators, you will blind truck drivers, as the system will not see their main lamps, so will not cut the light. Sorry folks! 3) HUD. shows everything you need in a better way than the main cluster. Sadly AR nav works only with terrible onboard navigation. Now, what I would change. I could any day forget about the sleeping package and trunk controlled towing hook to get a motorised tailgate. I hate this hatch. I have to close it twice to make sure it's closed only to discover it's still open when I start the car. In the past, I was the person who said 'ignore the battery size, charging speed is more important'... and no, or.. yes and no. Because I had to go across Germany (twice) and Poland (four times), I was forced to use motorways, and with a 60kW battery, it was like 1:10h of driving 45minutes of charging, rinse and repeat. The 60 is a perfect size for everyday use, but as soon as you plan some truly serious distances, you should consider a bigger battery, especially if in your country you don't have a lot of really fast chargers. Meeting Tesla owners in a queue for a single 50kW charger is not a pleasant experience. Because I don't plan to repeat this trip next year I am fine with my 60. But I was really surprised how hard is to find a fast charger when you need one. What I miss: * rear bench domestic plug (for the UK spec). Seriously, we paid the same price, continental Europe got the plug, we got a cover. On the longer trips, you really want to plug in your laptop while you are charging your car for the sixth time. * A/Ced compartment. this is an EV. having a small cooled compartment in the glovebox or in the armrest is something that sounds like a natural idea, you don't have to care about power! but no. * 40/20/40 split and adjustable rear bench. Like I showed in my previous posts you lose a lot of space because of rear seats angle. If you could make them more upright the trunk would be so much more useful What I don't like, also known as 'the first world problems list': * laura. * central cluster, lucky for me I got HUD, but listen. On your central cluster you can't find information about the current status of the battery (in percentage), you can't check your energy usage (in m/kW or kW/100km), but you can see that you have a charging port on the right!! and that you can have D or B mode. No seriously. You have a constant reminder that the charging port is on the right. Like you forgot about that since last charging, it was yesterday after all. * right thumb fidget spinner. If you buy a driver assistance package the controller under the most powerful finger of your body is obsolete, to compensate that Skoda decided to hide ACC distance controller at the top of an additional controller on the left side, constantly hidden behind the steering wheel. Why? Because **** logic (or because we decided to reuse some parts from older models). * shutting down the car instantly after raising your butt from the seat. As a UK driver on my continental Europe trip I had to leave my seat to pick up motorway toll ticket, parking entry ticket, buzz myself in, pickup my sweet chilli twister, venti latte macchiato with double caramel, triple espresso and pumpkin spice at least four times a day. and after every single raising my bum off the seat I had to wait two minutes to reconnect my android auto, resume navigation, restore ev notify. because the car wanted to save 0.0000000001kWh of energy. * laura. * single wireless charging mat without any ventilation - self-explanatory. after 10 hours I decided to switch to cable. I could not afford to get my phone exploded. * touch-sensitive control for the roof. the worst solution ever. if only some assistant could open and close the roof for you, or wait... * laura - the most useless part of the car * rear window wiper - you waste 80% of liquid because the jet is so much on the left * front window jets - fine in the UK, but above 120km/h they hardly hit the middle of the window * shortcut buttons - they work as a separate layer, which means that if you press clima button, and then you want to switch to android auto with the favourite bar, you have to close the clima menu by clicking the button again even if the shortcut is still visible. * user experience of infotainment - best example, climate control. you got three controls for each seat, blue minus, a numeric representation of temperature, red plus. Now my expectation, if I press blue minus, the temperature is reduced by half of the degree, if I press the number I got a numeric selection, the red plus increase the temp by a half degree. Easy, right? NO! pressing anything turns the screen to almost black, then you can select temperature from numeric selection (while plus/minus automatically change temp by half deg). You were watching navigation while your wife decided that's too cold inside? bad luck. Another example? When you turn your parking assist on, sometimes (quite randomly) you got a settings menu that covers the top of the screen, just where your fronts sensors and camera are. So you can't see how close you are to a concrete wall, but you can launch the menu to change the brightness of the screen. Seriously? The same thing with the air purifying, when you start the option you see the HUGE logotype in the middle, you touch it and nothing happened... because the button is in the top left corner. just close to the continental driver, and the most hidden place for the UK driver, because who would check the spec of the car, right?. Another one? If you turn the climate off, in the top right corner you see the vent with the slider, which suggest that you could just touch it and turn the climate on, right? No, you have to find the climate button behind your cups, press, turn it on, press again to turn the menu off, why... oh why... (also, I am available if you are looking for user experience quality tester) * laura even if the negatives' list looks extensive, this is nitpicking (with a small exception for laura, she is really useless). I still consider this car as the best in the segment in June 2021 (still have to check Ioniq 5 and EV6). I truly miss P2 acceleration, but then I remember the single cupholder and I am happy with my choice. See you on the road!

Nope…. Oem… however I did figure out that the Mrs left her sun shade down with the light on (it just wasn’t dark enough to notice at first) It looks like it was indicating internal lights were on as once I sorted that it locked without the pulsing. Just no mention of this in the manual….

If I remember well, the only way to adjust the phone ringer volume, is to decrease it at the requested level, while it's ringing. To be confirmed.

I think your expectation is a little too high since you are seeking for very exact comparison. Which can btw be very subjective. You are looking for someone who had a non VRS Octi with optional sport suspension without DCC and who also had a non VRS Octi without optional sport suspension and with the DCC? Am I right? We are just trying to help you here with giving as much opinions as possible. But it looks like you don't like that.

Went to open my tailgate this morning, opened fine then the beeps of death! lol. its a sign!

Is anybody able to confirm what type of tyre is fitted as standard on either the Enyaq 60 or Enyaq 80? Are they summer tyres or All Season tyres? In the UK brochure which I downloaded, it indicated that both Enyaq 60 and Enyaq 80 have 235/55 R19 101T tyres, but it shows the Enyaq 80 as having tyres “with seal technology”. Do you really only get the self-sealing tyres with the Enyaq 80 model, even though both models use the same size of 19” tyres as standard (albeit with different style of alloy wheel)?

Then I need to go to my ophthalmologist... . Sorry, if I missed this point.

U missed the bit where I said "pic below shows endlink at its minimum length, prior to adjustment" From the numerous forums and research I've read - they all mention, and explain why there is preload after the car is lowered. And I also saw it for myself - when I had the old endlinks removed and the car was on the ground, I could see swaybar's normal position, which was far off from the factory endlink's bottom point. This was because of the shorter Eibach springs Yes, u can push/pivot the swaybar upwards, but it requires a lot of force and the swaybar doesn't stay in that position, instead it rebounds back to its original position - as is expected normal behaviour for a swaybar. Try it for urself. This tension/resistance is the pre-load everyone refers to. Again, as I said before - it's not critical to do, and the factory endlinks will put up with "shortfall". I did it cause I wanted to.

Busy last couple of weekends, took the car to crail again no faster times but 0-60 down to 5.67 seconds and 0-100 down to 12.2 seconds Then the past weekend went to the Scottish Festival of Motoring and stuck it on the dyno, first time i've done a show with it since the build and was surprised at how many people knew about it and came up asking about the car. Then after the show another member had cracked a wheel when in scotland on holiday so 130 mile trip to help him out and give him a wheel so he can get home over the next 3 weeks have 2 more shows and another day at crail, few ideas to help it get faster at crail.

Enjoy

It’s strange many say that the mild hybrids have the DQ200E but this press release claims it is a normal DQ200, of course press releases can be wrong. https://www.volkswagen-newsroom.com/en/the-new-golf-international-vehicle-presentation-5609/new-drive-systems-5622 1.5 eTSI with 110 kW and DSG. The 1.5 eTSI with 150 PS can also be combined with a 7-speed DSG (DQ200) as standard. It has the same output figures (110 kW between 5,000 and 6,000 rpm) as a TSI with the same power but without 48 V technology and DSG. The also identical maximum torque of 250 Nm is available within a range from 1,500 to 3,500 rpm. The Golf 1.5 eTSI accelerates from 0 to 100 km/h in 8.5 seconds and has a top speed of 224 km/h.

What about anyone buying a new car with the DQ200 gearbox now? Are all the problems sorted out now? I believe the 48volt mild hybrid is supposed to help mitigate some issues. Separately I have read the the mild hybrid uses the DQ200E gearbox but other say it is the normal DQ200 with belt alternator starter.

They have updated the DQ200 Software lots, this issue is Engine Management Software & DSG Software to get the emissions that were required for the WLTP. There were DQ200's used in 48 applications in various VW Group Models when Skoda built the factory bigger to produce them. 2012 and the World Wide Recall excluding Europe which got a Service Campaign from 2014 '34F7' was not just 1.2 TSI's, it was also 1.4 & 1.8 TSI's and 1.6 TDI's. Synthetic oil changed to mineral & a Software update, and in New Zealand all the models with a DQ200 got a New Mechatronic Control Unit. Then 2013-2015 there was another Service Campaign '34H5'. Then there are the TPI's covering ones from 2014/15 for Software updates & uprated Clutch Packs. Then in Australia in 2019 yet another Recall yet again covering the 2009-2016. So Vorsprung Durch Technik was forgotten by VW Group until now there is the e-DQ200 for the Mild Hybrids. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/439395-the-story-of-the-famous-dq200-clutch-slip/page/14

Worked like a charm thank you so much!!

Well, it must have been something you wrote, varaderoguy or langers2k: I didn't reformat, but deleted, reinstalled, reloaded in the car and BINGO, it worked immediately. Thank you for the confirmation that I was doing the right thing, it made me persevere!

Itl’ bee sheet….

Sorry, I misunderstood you and thought the preload concerned the shock absorbers, intead of the sway bar.

For a Citigo, suggest a nextbase 322GW with a backwards camera module option. Nextbase have an offer on at the moment (although I would go out and buy a 128G Class 10 memory card seperately): https://www.nextbase.com/en-gb/special-offer/322gw-dash-cam-pro-package/

Just been in touch with a friend, and when he pushed was told a factory order maybe March, suggests those being told 31 December are just being given last day of year to avoid quoting realistic 2022 date Apparently negligible unallocated ones for quick delivery, and not many for 1-5 weeks delivery Some dealers might have something they ordered for own stock / demonstrators / staff use, which they might sell you if you specifically ask. Although some will put themselves ahead of a customer so won’t let you have them.

Fortunately your lack of a `flying ####` does not diminish my joy.

What a joy to see the correct spelling...(`You're` and `could've`)

Yes - about firmware version 0480. Its still very new; I'm trying to get my hands on the changelog. 0478 is still the recommended version. I think that 0480 fixes some minor bug issues with Apple Carplay.

Well.... Dealer want £115 to diagnose fault. I've said if it's not covered by warranty dont bother I dont want to waste £115 .... Just waiting for we need £115 to diagnose to see if it's covered or not ! I think I might call the warranty number to just check if anything to do with the tailgate is covered at least we can get the info here on the thread then.

Excellent. Well, if I'm unable to change the units between kmph and mph it's staying with them. Manager told me he'd ring me today. Guess we will see.

Both - You're the guinea pig

This topic has come up so often I should cut and paste my reply. I had a set of 16" steels for winter use. After 4 years the 18" never went back on and in fact i should sell the,. I was replacing two 18" tyres one year and four the next, not counting two more that were written off by a pot hole and one complete rim and the L&K wheels were not cheap (now have six of them) I found breaking distance /grip to be very slightly worse but comfort, fuel economy, tyre and wheel economy, noise all substantially improved. Oh and aesthetics took a dive too. I would consider another superb in the future but certainly would remove the 19" wheels immediately and replace with 16" again.

The car was parked on a level surface for about 2 hours yesterday, following a 30 mile, mainly motorway at 60 mph journey. Oil level before returning was about 2/3rds from the top of the cross-hatched section. I've checked again now, in the usual parked position, and it's at the bottom of the cross-hatched section. I would estimate, therefore, that when it gets towards the bottom of section C, it will really be at the bottom of the cross-hatched section, and time to top up. I'll continue to monitor the level, both after parking at the supermarket and at home when cold, and establish my personal way of ensuring that the oil is always as it should be. I no longer do my own maintenance, as age is becoming a bit of a limiting factor. I now entrust the annual service & issues I can't manage to a small family run independent garage, whose specialism is Jaguars of all ages. They do service all makes, and are most helpful. They are aware of my past history of dealing with competition cars when I had my RAC competition licence, and treat me as if I do, mostly, Know what I'm talking about! Thanks to everyone for your comments and assistance, much appreciated.

Yes that made me laugh as well I know from personal experience (incompetence) that if the hose does not allow all the fluid displaced by the master cylinder to pass then the spindly plastic master cylinder pushrod will snap like a Twiglet. - I had forgotten to release the clamp on the flexible hose after reconnection before bleeding the system. The flexible hose does not present any restriction to the system, the clutch bleed block AKA peak torque limiter has a tiny metered orifice on the return stroke and is very restrictive on the disengage stroke when the poppet valve opens. These same scammers that are selling you something you have no need of saying it will give you more of an OEM feel would say the opposite when trying to sell you braided brake hoses. Compared to a brake system there is barely any pressure in the clutch hydraulic system.

You can send the whole VIN using PM (private message on this site) to pab567 if you are unhappy about posting it on an open forum. AS I understand it the full build specification of the individual car can be obtained from the VIN. - including options and modules fitted.

They are standard on all the 288mm disc cars both VRS and 2.0 petrol, on the VRS they are painted green, on the 2.0 they're unpainted. Conversion to 312mm requires changing the calipers to ATE and using longer carriers.

Please can you confirm what you mean by the above? On my Karoq, I fitted Vredestein Quatrac Pro tyres, which have the snowflake / 3 peaks symbol on them. So I assumed that they are indeed suitable for driving in snow (although we haven’t actually had any heavy snow in my region in the past two years, for me to really test them).

Your options in that part of the world are: Specialist Cars in Aberdeen (reasonably good engineers); Aberdeen Volks Centre (VW Specialist); SVS Volkswagen in Dundee (VW Specialist) - depends on where you are in the world. I'm sure that the folk on here in Scotland will help you out as much as possible. @e-Roottoot

My sons Enyaq 60 has Hankook ventus prime summer tyres fitted. My Kodiaq has Pirelli Scorpion seal inside tyres and these are summer tyres also. As far as I know no Skoda models come with All Season tyres fitted.

Hmmm… only suspect area is getting to the wiring - that will be a pain for sure but worth it to save £500. EDIT… Doh….. Just saw the attached vid. 🙄 You’re right, seems even I could’ve done that! 😁

its a slow & steady, never ending evolution for Gandalf

@JR RS it seems there is no end to Gandalf's Evolution!!

Hellol, I retrofitted Amundsen MIB STD2 PQ ( 5L0035680E ) in my Skoda Octavia 2 (2006 Year), everything was working fine but I faced two problems when I connected it in car. I found solutions myself, I was searching for solutions but I found nowhere these solutions on any other forum for any other car, so I want to share them here if someone have same problems. #1 Problem: - GPS Navigation does not update the GPS Location. Height is changing, and satelites are available. After a restart the location is up to date, but not updating while driving. I'ts just stuck in place where I turned on navigation. First I thought it's because my ABS Pump is too old, but I fixed it without changing it. Solution: In VCDS, Open 5F Module -> Basic Settings -> Navigation Recalibration (or something like that) -> Do it! | This solved my problem and Navigation now works like a charm. #2 Problem: - When I turn on car and navigation turns on, volume knob is not working, when you're turning it around, to increase od decrease volume, Navigation displays visual for sound adjustment, but it has no effect. Sound volume is stuck at 50%. You can't lower it or make it louder. When you restart unit few times, somehow it gets to work, but that's not the solution we want. Problem cause: Unit wasn't coded for my car. It needed coding, in long coding to check 8 Passive Speakers and Internal Amplifier (in my case/car). Solution: In VCDS, Open 5F Module -> Coding -> Long Coding Helper -> Scroll through bytes until you found options for speaker number (6 or 8 passive speakers) and option for amplifier (External or Internal) -> Choose what your care have -> Save -> Do it! | This solved my problem and Volume knob works without any problems.

Just seen the darndest thing in the sky on the way home this evening......

Style over practicality with wheels. Scraped and scuffed and corroding wheels are not just one of those things they look guff Below 15%. Really. .

I'm all ears!

Colourful sunset this evening and some lovely reflections earlier (including in the shiny bonnet of my car!)

There are no fault codes shown in your picture... There is a similar car here which shows the exact same output for the HVAC: https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/17803/#post-158094 Address 08: Auto HVAC (J255) Labels:| 5G0-907-044.clb Part No SW: 5E0 907 044 E HW: 5E0 907 044 E Component: Climatronic H02 0805 Revision: 00001K06 Coding: 01110104000100011005000000100000 Shop #: WSC 73430 031 00063 ASAM Dataset: EV_ACClimaBHBVW37X 003017 ROD: EV_ACClimaBHBVW37X_003_SK37.rod VCID: 2708F398EF65ECDFFF7-8072 Fresh Air Blower Front: Refrigerant Pressure And Temperature Sender: Air quality sensor: No fault code found.

While the ACT causes some vibrations, i feel the "jumpy" 1st gear is the bigger problem. I will talk about both again with the retailer next time i contact them, since there are some other smaller issues (mostly infotainment related) still with the car.

Afternoon all, Recently taken the plunge and hard tailed the bike - put the rear tyre down by 3psi which helps compensate for bumps in the road. When hard tailing, I realised my cheap eBay solo seat wasn't up to the job, so replaced with a Biltwell Slimline Diamond pattern seat and 2" springs. The height of the bike is low, but it's looking how I've wanted it since getting the bike standard 3 and a half years ago. Not to everyone's taste I'm sure but that's life!

Cancel the test drive. You're going to enter a world of pain if you buy one of these cars. I created this thread more than three months ago and Skoda are yet to fix any of the faults. My own rejected MK4 is still sat in a wasteland compound out the back of the dealership, untouched. I cannot stress enough that the Octavia MK4 is not worthy of your money or the stress it will cause you.

@gcasey that's for your post with feedback. I've no idea of the work involved but with labour costs it's a good job it's under warranty regardless. You could suggest to them it might save them time money and hassle to replace the existing battery with a new one that is the equivalent in type and quality and have it coded all under warranty to save you possibly returning with more warranty work error codes be worthwhile to them and you. Let us know how you get on.

Bike is almost finished - had some paint matching issues for the new fender (Colour is perfect, although the metal flake was more coarse). As it has custom writing on the side or the tank, going to spray the "top surface" and blend into the sides and clear coat all again - will tie in the newly painted fender with the 5 year old painted tank. Just a bit of spraying/touching up on the engine, small fuel leak (coming from fuel filter so easily rectified) and some polishing to be done and it'll be ready to ride again!

Exhaust fabricated, just needs a securing mount at the rear with a rubber bush to help dampen vibrations and prevent it from cracking etc (especially as a V Twin, and Hard Tail). Few small bits of welding, little bit of wiring, tidying and paint and she'll be back to it!

Up and running!

Yup, that's an premium/rSAP only module which explains the missing menu Just don't buy an iphone as they have no rSAP support so you'd need a new BT module to use it...