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As @HeavyMetalRich says; I wondered about that before I even found out the car is a TDi. BTW, easy fault diagnosis is why it helps to put your engine type, and transmission in the model details in your profile.

2 down, 2 to go! All I have to do now is paint the other 2 and clear them so they will be done tomorrow. Did a bit of experimenting with bulbs, the secret bulbs came quick as expected, a pair of 3000k Michiba bulbs. Now I liked the colour of these, and they are legal judging from the NCT guidelines. One problem with these is that my car only has the one bulb for high and low beam, but they had the same range as the original cheapy white ones in it. Of course the nightbreakers came in the next day, but I waited for a few days to give the yellow bulbs a chance. I put these in this evening and they are definately a big improvement over the original white ones. Lovely crisp pure white light from them.

How about sorting all this out behind the bike shed at playtime?

Amazing thanks, I've seen @Tech1e's work first hand on other similar threads. Hopefully I can entice them over to this one soon 🍰 🍺

I reckon tech1e will be able to help you here, being a former Skoda tech and that.

Thanks both! @AnnoyingPentium My you've been busy, the red nugget is looking splendid, you've gained a new thread follower. We've become very fond of out 'ginger' mk2 in 7 years we've owned it - i've attached some pics from July 2014 when we found it, approved used from Westover Skoda in Bournemouth. All we've done since is add some roof bars for bikes and boards + keep up with the servicing.

I bit the bullet and all ordered with a 19 week lead time! Bring it on! Now to start researching home wallboxes.

Isn't the problem that the Intelligent Battery Sub-System will now be charging the battery at the rate appropriate to an "old" (deteriorated) battery rather than the "new " one which you have fitted, which could reduce the life of your replacement battery. Also, it may not be reporting correctly back to the Stop/Start (and other electronic sub-systems) so they may not be operating optimally. So it may appear to be fine, but actually you could be storing up problems for yourself.

My wife's night sight is a bit challenged these days and I fitted a pair of Osram Nightbreakers a little while back which she says have improved the headlamp illumination significantly.

Phoenix Orange! It seems that the overpriced Metallic Red has been discontinued.

Probably the answer to your question:

Yes, I need to take it steady and use WD40 and heat carefully. Probably wire brush the threads and pre-soak everything a couple of times the day before I start.

No bother at all. 👍

The Superb is as it says on the boot lid, Superb but the Octavia First Edition should come with a health warning .

You'll see when you get them.

Thanks Rich! I only have the standard pedal set without the covers since it's not a vRS. These just slip over, right?

I found the below information in the owner's manual. It looks like you need to look in the declaration of conformity (in the so-called COC Document) to find out the Skoda approved tyre sizes. Approved tyre sizes are specified in the technical vehicle documentation and in the declaration of conformity (in the so-called COC Document). The declaration of conformity can be obtained from a ŠKODA Partner (valid for some countries and some models).

If ordered when new, voice activation was £35.00 back in 2016. It will be more both now and for retro fit. I didn't bother with that but, Android Auto works well ( for me ) and for free. 😉 Thanks, AG Falco

Just got the parts today and had them fitted. Dropped off at garage at 2pm and collected at around 4:30 was charged £150 for labour. I need to get the car tracked and wanted to know what that process really is. Also, knocking and groaning from steering at low speeds and when parking up, since I just changed the following; see photo attached Listed; 2X FRONT SUSPENSION CONTROL ARM / WISHBONE LEFT AND RIGHT 2X FRONT OUTER BUSH LEFT AND RIGHT 2X FRONT TIE ROD END OUTER LEFT AND RIGHT 2X FRONT TIE ROD JOINT / INNER LEFT AND RIGHT It also does still knock when I'm going over rough roads and that is getting really unpleasant, and im sure the vibrations aren't good for anyone. Any advice or pointers would be grand! I would take it for tracking but I feel like something else needs changing before I do that so just wanting to get everything out of the way.

Ah ok that narrows things down a little. There might well be an intercooler situated behind the driver's side front bumper, if that's the case then the pipes going to it might be leaking from the joins. There is a cut out in the under tray section of the wheel arch liner for said pipe so you can have a quick look underneath and see instantly.

My feeling too. Take this quote for example, from @muddyjim's link "Self-learning system. If a battery is advanced in age, the vehicle system records the „defective battery“. If a new battery is installed without entering a BEM code, the vehicle will not recognise" So they'd have you believe that the vehicle system is capable of detecting when a battery is defective, but then can't tell the difference when a non-defective, brand new one is fitted and used? Pull the other one, frankly.

Possibly same number of MOBOS on this system. Same problem with PSU and on board regulators. But I can see a long install time in future and other problems as I run old software that only likes XP ,and on a second HDD I run W10, INSTALLED ON AN OLD COPY OF w7,via a free update from MS. SO now ,for a clean instal, I'd have to partition both HDD, then install XP on the small HDD, then partition the big HDD for w7 and a store. Then install W7, and from previous problems install all the stuff that works with W7, authenticate it ,install W10 , AND THEN INSTALL w11. IS MS new CEO HAVING A NEW gIRAFFE?

Interesting read HERE

When I was under the car the other day I noticed that the corrigated harness sleeve from the engine oil level / temp sensor ( 1J0 907660 C ) was breaking up and the retaining harness clip had also broken. I bought some new split sleeving from the Bay of E for about £3 (1 metre ). You need a I/D of 5mm with a O/D of 7.1mm. I also made up a small bracket and used a P clip to secure the harness in position (see pics). The length of the fitted sleeve is about 200mm. I also checked with my Multi meter that the current was getting through to the sensor. The corrigated sleeve end slids into some existing heat resistant sleeving further along then a tye-wrap to hold the two together.

Some of us are not too bothered. My Mobo etc was bought before Maplin went under and met the Grim reaper of high street stores. It meets a lot of specs, but I think It'll still be booting when boot hill summons me. The W+ W10 upgrade might be a nice inheritance for one of the kids/grandkids. So I think I'll download the W11 upgrade and keep it on disc. That way I can let them get back at the stealers at MS.

Welcome to the forums! Apologies in advance for the shameless self-plug... I know you've got a Mk2 but if you need some inspiration for things to do to your car then have a nosey at my project thread, if that takes your fancy.

Ha! That will send us all scurrying to check VINs. Mine is a late 2017/2018 230 and that starts TMBB..... I'm just off to check the lights

Hello Luke, welcome along Gaz

Have to disagree. If you have Stop/Start on your car, you'll see the electronics for monitoring the battery attached to the -ve terminal (along with a sticker warning you that chargers have to be attached to the chassis and not directly to the battery -ver terminal, where they would bypass the monitor). Modern cars have very complex battery requirements (especially if they have Stop/Start, keyless entry, always-on infotainment, etc), and the charging requirements for EFB and AGM batteries are different to classic Lead-Acid batteries. Hence the need to code in new batteries to ensure that both the charging regime and the information provided by the monitoring sub-system are accurate.

Bought all three parts from www.autopartspro.co.uk 4-5 days delivery around 70 quid all in.

It's a pretty astonishing situation! I just checked the valuation of my S-Cross and it is now within £2800 of the price I paid (new / pre- reg) for it 3 and a half years (and 41k miles) ago. Of course there are no cars other cars available at a sensible price currently, so it's all a rather false situation. I had a look round a local main dealer car last night and they had a three-year-old Kodiaq for sale for £30000!!

Driving in B roads. This feels like quite an upgrade vs MK3.5. The cornering, the placement in the road and especially the electronically controlled diff that enables you to go out of the corner faster and lowers understeer by quite some margin... Cool

Presuming the journalist in question has a Škoda, reads Forum posts and, given the number of similar issues, attaches any credibility to my comments, I would have thought this would have provided him or her sufficient incentive to establish their veracity.... not that this was my intention in making my foray in to the world of Škodas !

I always use the website Autobulbs Direct. Their prices are good, they have the Osram Nightbreaker bulbs (some variety of Phillips bulb often gets better reviews in Autoexpess's testing, but are usually significantly more expensive, and the Nightbreakers seem to me to be good enough, and clear improvement over standard ). There is a trade-off between intensity and bulb life, so you have to be a bit careful about which exact bulb you buy as the big manufacturers tend to have a selection of different trade-offs available. Also, 'plus 50% (or whatever)' bulbs tend to look a bit brighter, but not as much as it indicates on the box.This seems to be due to the way they are allowed to make claims - you can choose the distance that suits you best, and claim that your bulb is a certain percentage brighter there, which will not be the same as that percentage brighter everywhere.

You could either upgrade the unit to a more modern one with Apple CarPlay @pab567 is the man for helping you with that! Or you can get ‘adaptors’ that retro fit into the existing unit, but it’s not 100% quite the same…

If you use Apple Carplay (Android too) you can hold this down to activate Siri (google assistant). If you want this to be activated for use with Bluetooth connected phones you will need to have it activated via the dealer for a price.

Pls post modle numer and SW version of your infotainment unit.

Well I had some good news they've conceded that it's a warranty job and BOTH are to be replaced as both have cracked on two different places. So that's just saved me about £1200!

Probably easier to just line the dog

Is Max a distant relative of Nigel Mansell?

At least i managed to get a new arch from Facebook for £20 brand new

Greetings from Geece!!

Thanks for the replies. I had a go and came to the conclusion that the bumper needs to come off. If the bumper mounting is similar to the octavia it doesn't look like too bad a job. I'm not fussed about saving the old surround but I don't want to risk damaging any of the clips on the grill. Thanks for the info about the radar, I will make sure to disconnect the battery first if I need to unplug it (I'm not sure if it's mounted to the bumper itself.). Hopefully giving this a go on Monday if the weather is OK, I will report how I get on!

"I was told by my Skoda dealer..........(insert random BS here)..................." The forum swear filter should be programmed to insert the above whenever it detects "I was told by my Skoda dealer/the mechanic/the service receptionist"

Do you see a point in being able to vary the pressure on your brake pedal? "Regen" is short for "regenerative braking" and slows the car just like the wheel brakes do.

It is amazing that after more than 20 years, a small Czech car is still loved by so many o us. The only things that made people lose their car were rust, lack of maintenance, abuse or accidents.