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I drive a 2020 EV that makes no noise up to 15 mph because it was type approved before the legislation on it being required. I really have to be careful as pedestrians are crossing roads regularly into my path. Particularly as i turn onto side streets and they are in a dream. Not much difference from when pedestrians are on phones or have on headphones, hats pulled over their ears etc. Cyclists really get a surprise as i slow to pass them or even not slow as they are not aware i am there. Dangerous really driving in 'Stealth' Mode.

The chances of leads changing from type-2 to 'something else' in the future are pretty much zero to not at all. The type-2 socket is part of the CCS DC charging standard that all European manufacturers use and Tesla also use for European Model 3 and Y. Literally millions of CCS and type-2 public charging stations have been installed at huge cost. The manufacturers are not going to throw that investment away. IMHO, go tethered so you always have a cable at home to plug in to and you will never forget to take your type-2 cable in your car should you need it.

You asked for evidence about how a particular system (the battery management system) worked. I provided a link to a page from a very large, reputable battery manufacturer explaining how it was implemented. I even spoon fed you with the appropriate paragraph, to save you having to read the whole page. No, I didn't drill down to the next level, for reasons that I explained. It would be impossible to live life by investigating everything from first principles. I trust the Škoda engineers who designed my car to have done the job properly, just like I trust the Shell engineers who designed the petrol that I put into it, and the food scientists at Tesco who have created the lasagne that I'm having for dinner tonight. And yet that wasn't enough for you - you criticised me for "just parroting stuff I'd read" (as if any of us have ever said anything completely original) and got on your high horse about "try to have a shred" of evidence. I'm out of this discussion now. Anybody who puts a new battery in their (battery management system-equipped) Yeti should by now fully understand the advantages of coding it. Anybody who chooses not to should at least understand some of the risks they take.

Well it was just a test and without absolutely knowing I could drive 120 miles and still have more than half my charge left say at least 130 or 140 miles left was the tactic. So I achieved the phenomenal over 5 miles per kWh and had 140 miles still left on the range meter when I arrived at Heathrow. As I said the charging was traumatic not due to the charging but the cable removal but more valuable lessons learned on EV charge post functioning. I will get my office to service all the charge posts so it does not happen again. The return journey Heathrow to Worcester, probably 115 miles was done at higher speeds closer to the National Speed Limit. Use power at 4.8 KWh and got home with 100 miles of range showing. Plugged in to my 3.6 kWh charger, added 60 miles over night, Smart meter shows I have used about 15kWh since midnight so that is 75 pence of electricity so I am currently paying 1.25 pence per mile for energy to power the car. Overall success. Further tests will be for the colder weather but Zoe heating unit seemed fine coping with outside temperature of 7C in the morning and it only consumed 0.4 kWh of power there and back to Heathrow. So cruising in the low 60s mph with the ECO button pressed, occasional kickdown on the accelerator to unleash the 135 hp of instant power to find a quite cruising spot away from the intimidating crowds of trucks seems to work well in terms of economy, fun and safely.

Phoenix Orange! It seems that the overpriced Metallic Red has been discontinued.

Thanks for the pictures... Those night breakers look good... Definitely whiter and they seem to be a lot brighter than the fogs for example... So I'm convinced!!! Thanks! Also those wheels look spot on... You've done a great job with them looking back at how they started.

And all 4 are painted now.

The 16s are hopefully just "on loan" from the mk1 for Winter use, should be going back on the mk1 come spring. Test fitted 2 of them this evening while the others are curing. Looking decent on the car, not much room under em for the 312s though. Other 2 are cleared now and just curing. Basically ready to get tyres on them whenever. Reckon these will look great with some chunky tyres on em. I dont have any pictures of the difference no, but I can get a pic of how these new bulbs light up the road if thats any help?

If the data sticker is missing from the boot/service book and there is no sticker on the cambelt cover, on UK cars the code can be found on the V5 vehicle logbook, the letters at the start of the engine serial number are the engine code.

Had a call from my dealer just now... apparently my new Kodiaq is sat in Germany, awaiting a boat over here. So hopefully I should have it in a few weeks 😁.

Probably but mine wasn't, I upgraded from the factory fitted EFB to an AGM type. For the price difference it seemed silly not to. A Varta 570901076 Battery was only £120. I get your point on having to buy VCDS, but I did that years ago and it has more than paid for itself in normal servicing and fault finding over the years. I've also helped quite a number of local people with scans and coding mods. Anyone local could pop by mine and I'd code their battery after fitting.

My Octopus Go rate on my last bill was----- 04:30 to 00:30 14.90p per kWh + VAT = 15.645p per kWh 00:30 to 04:30 4.76p per kWh + VAT = 4.998p per kWh So both blooming cheap it seems to me. Is it not due to go in October 2021 so maybe my next bill will be a much higher rate. ie 24p.per kWh for the 20 hours but still 5p a kWh for the 4 hours when I program the EV to get its charge from the house. I shall be doing much more of the tumble drying in the cheap period I think. My heating is gas and I have a brand new 94% efficient Valient boiler fitted a couple of months ago which with its 40% improvement in efficiency and dropping my boiler cover package with British gas I am saving about £50 a month so the new boiler pays for itself in the 5 years. Electricity De France have some very big out-goings with their mass of nuclear power stations but they are going renewable as well. Just bought two dozen LED spot lights and candle bulbs to save on the lecky and one notice a huge amount of less incidental heat that would have come from the old halogen bulbs so the gas heating will have to work a bit harder but gas is effectively 3p a kWh so many times cheaper than electricity for heating of course. The new taxes on Employee and Employer National Insurance will cripple some people financially as well as no rise in tax allowances so ,many working people will have much less money and in the UK we will in April become more taxed as a percentage of earnings than ever before.

Cut away the cable locking mechanism if you are not worried about people unplugging you: https://www.speakev.com/threads/anti-locking-a-type-2-cable.142659/#post-2690415 Looking at grid, there is ALWAYS surplus electricity overnight: https://grid.iamkate.com/ So the answer is yes, there will always be cheaper off-peak deals. I'm at price cap on E7 with 13p off peak and 20p other times. Regional average price is ~19p. How could they implement taxation of home charging. Have a think, how do you police that? Only way to tax home charging is to tax all home electric usage, which wouldn't happen until home gas heating has become abnormal or more tax is put on gas so that electricity heating becomes price competitive pushing towards zero combustion home heating. Rapid charging tax is totally feasible, and/or per-mile tax for all cars (meaning home charged EV is still cheaper to run). Knowing I can plug-in at both ends, I'd simply drive like the wind, often faster than my diesel. Because the proportional cost increase for the cheaper EV miles mean absolute cost increase is minuscule. Even better when workplace charger is free.

First long trip. Worcester to Heathrow, about 120 miles if one uses the M5/40/25 route. Started with 245 miles range shown and arrived with 140 miles being shown. Consumption shown as 5.1 miles/kWh. A cruise with the trucks at 55 mph helped achieve this. Ten Rolec 16A chargers at my Heathrow office. Plugged in to one not realising most were single phase and only a couple were 3 phase. These chargers were fitted before we moved in in January 2017 and not used very much by either staff or visitors I was told. Monitored the charging on my smartphone MyRenault App and could see it was slowish and therefore I must have plugged in to a 16A single phase rather than a 16A 3 phase 11 kW charger, ahh well. Charged back to 90% so it showed 220 miles range. Went to remove my meaty Type 2 to Type 2 and the Rolec would not let it go. wiggled the post end of the cable after disconnecting from Zoe but no joy and getting the cable to release. Pulled harder and harder until, oops, the entire facia of the Rolec charger post pulled away too. Went back in to the office, said what happened. Fortunately we had two electricians on site doing a bunch of lecky stuff. Also they had just done a course on EV charging systems. After 15 minutes of dis-assembling managed to free the cable release pin which had got stuck through probably not have moved in 5 years and would not retract. Should this mechanical part of the charging station be routinely lubricated, annually, every other year I wonder ? A glance at the internet and this sounds quite a regular problem with charging boxes. Do not want to loose a £200 cable to one of these chargers. Thoughts/ideas ?

Considering this laptop cost me nearly £1,300 in January, I'd like to f****** hope so!

Only if you have time... Might be interesting to compare to the michiba photo.

Just go straight to the engine ECU and the other is just an ignition live. You don’t need to worry about the nodes

So, the AFM wasn't getting power, so I bodged a temp feed to it. The car ran rough for a few seconds then settled down. Checked the fuses, blew my tiny mind on the left to right mirror because the diagram's for a left hand drive. Got set right by Nige - big thanks for that. Stuck a fuse in 29 (didn't have one). Drove down the lane, the fault light went off and stayed off for my ten minute drive home. I haven't had chance to scan it again, but I've got a couple of hundred miles to do tomorrow, so we'll see what catches fire between now and me getting home.

I have checked the servo hose, it is in good condition. DTC P0335 is the error code, crankshaft sensor confirms garage reading, im going ahead with another sensor and letting them fit it.

All sorted now mate someone cut all the wires and re wired 2 wrong

It might be the fuel lines rattling against the chassis, Here

I would suggest looking to use Plusgas as a release agent rather than WD40. Also the spring compressor quoted above is not a good tool as the jaws creep around the spring when tightening and you can end up with different tensions on both sides, I have a set of Sykes Pickavant - so obviously not a cheap chinese brand - in the bottom of my toolbox with a nice bow in the tensioning bolt from where they slipped around the spring.

Fully charged and Autogefuhl have also covered the launch. Looks a bit odd, slightly remodelled ID.3 IMO.

Any pictures of the difference? Am thinking of these for the Kodiaq given we've got the Halogens rather than the LED's

Rustynuts thanks for the offer but I have decided to get an android unit an replace it.

Yeah was originally told 24 - 30 weeks on our first visit and then once placed they said the 80 is 19 and 60 is 26 weeks. I'm hoping it'll be here late Feb so we can request a March 1st 22 registration as no point taking a 71 if we're so close to the new plate.

Congrats man i hope it is complete with all your options and without any issues to start your journeys!! Don't forget to ask them to check that everything is updated so you wont have that hassle afterwards 😛

I wouldn't use unbranded links because they usually only last long enough to pass an MOT, Fabias EAT the damned things unless you fit decent quality, most of us in the know fit Meyle HD links if you're planning on keeping the car but Febi are good enough.

These are also excellent value anti-roll bar links.

It was an interesting journey yesterday morning to LHR. For the first 30 miles the power consumption was closer to 4 than 5 miles per kWh. The journey starts here in Worcester where I am effectively just on the rolling countryside on the edge of the River Severn flood plain and the height above sea level is probably about 100 feet. Drive up the M5, climb all the way up to the Brum plateau getting up to nearly 700 feet ASL and then it is fairly flat all the way to until one get to the cut through the Chilterns range. EV just loves that, pick the right squarish transom sterned vehicle 16T truck or whatever to dream one is Ricky Booby in Talledega nights just about to do the draft pass and bingo 5 miles per kWh slowly comes up on the display.

But that requires the gear that costs more than the battery itself for something that definitely does not need doing if replacing with a fully charged like for like.

Tried ringing local Skoda dealerships no answer..., so I rang a VW dealer and neither of those numbers would show up, so it's definitely a Skoda part. I rang a different Skoda dealership today and sounded like I disrupted a family funeral moment, but the chap couldn't see the difference and has ordered in the 6V0 number for me to have a look at. I'm starting to think the 6V0 number is the part number for cars which have it fitted as standard and the 000 number is the "accessory" part number, and for some reason means a difference price as 000 comes with instructions on how to fit it etc. I'll do anything to save a couple of quid haha

I'm still going to do the coding on every battery change. It is so easy to do, takes about a minute, it takes longer to swap the battery than enter a few settings. So the point of arguing about it seems pointless. It needed doing for me anyway due to the battery type swap from EFB to AGM. A different battery type must be needed info as the charging profile would be different. The procedure does seem different on different vehicles. My sons Octavia Mk3 VRS for example had totally different forms to populate, the same type of information but a different entry method. We also swapped his original EFB to AGM type battery and on that it had to be entered as Battery Type = Fleece, whereas the Yeti as seen in my earlier attached photo had AGM on a drop down list. His Octavia has Binary-AGM, however I've been told that is something completely different and AGM batteries as normally brought are type Fleece.

Tax on miles driven and tax on passenger car weight as can be monitored at road sensors now. They know the vehicle by ANPR so know the vehicles VED class and Kerb Weight. So charge heavier private and business use cars with just a driver onboard more per mile than those with passengers / weight nearer gross max. Too many big fat SUV type and Sporty SUV,s are wearing out roads and occupying road space that need not be there. That might lead some to add weight into cars, but then Fuel be it fossil or renewable generated would cost more as moving weight does need more energy / fuel. The Government assisting financially the use of large EV,s for business use of reps / traders that have them just as Lifestyle vehicles is ridiculous. But then that is as it is now with Doublecab pickups, VW Carvelle type Transporters. Dual use vehicles.

Maybe they could even make you install metered chargers, and charge a fair (to everyone else) rate of fuel duty on charging electric cars?

I've ordered my Enyaq through a leasing company. The chap I was talking to at the leasing company has had an electric car for 5 years. His advice on wallboxes was "don't go tethered". The leads may change at some point in the future. If you get a tethered box then you'd have to change the box. Untethered, just plug in a new lead. There can be an issue with the earthing arrangements for a wall-box. Good ones don't require a separate earth spike (a TT earth arrangement) if you have a TN-CS earth to your consumer unit. I'd suggest as some background on this subject. as I've ordered my Enyaq through a leasing company. The chap I was talking to at the leasing company has had an electric car for 5 years. His advice on wallboxes was "don't go tethered". The leads may change at some point in the future. If you get a tethered box then you'd have to change the box. Untethered, just plug in a new lead. There can be an issue with the earthing arrangements for a wall-box. Good ones don't require a separate earth spike (a TT earth arrangement) if you have a TN-CS earth to your consumer unit. I'd suggest as some background on this subject. as

Yeah I did that all too. The nuts were no problem at all. But one of the bolts had seized into the holes. Bit of heat got it out though.

Do you have a Stop/Start battery system? Is it the original battery? If you have a Stop/Start battery then having no SOC figure is normal. This is because the battery is not charged fully by design and is also allowed the fall to less than 50% before the 'Smart Charging' system kicks in. If the car showed the SOC most people would think that their battery was no good. 12.3 volts at rest and 13.3 volts ( if ) when it is charging is low for a Stop/ Start battery system? Thanks, AG Falco

I will ask you a 3rd time MX5, perhaps I am not explaining well enough. Do you believe that the supposed J367 module is not capable of measuring current, voltage and temperature correctly if a different battery to the one coded into the system is fitted and will thus give false information to the supposed J533 module? That is all that I want to know, not to argue, not to tell you different, just to know if you believe what you stated.

So this complex modern electronic system J367 cannot measure the ambient temperature, charging voltage & current correctly unless it has been told that a new battery has been fitted and what type..................... Do you really believe that?

Driving in B roads. This feels like quite an upgrade vs MK3.5. The cornering, the placement in the road and especially the electronically controlled diff that enables you to go out of the corner faster and lowers understeer by quite some margin... Cool

No tracks in this country have both the length to get to speed and then scrub it off before the next corner. Only European track I feel you'd have a chance would be the nordschleife (that's dodgy at the best of times) and Mugello (but you'd need to be carrying some speed out the last corner) I'd love to have a drive on the autobahn just to see how fast I could get my car. However I've seen oodles of videos of speed tests and what not on them and they look sketchy at the best of times. AutoTopNL does car reviews on them and he's forever getting caught in traffic.

My 2016 Yeti with Stop/Start I had to code when I swapped the battery last November. I changed the battery type from EFB to AGM too. All entered into controller 61 Battery Regulation. The serial number I just set to the date I installed it 0029112020.

Well I had some good news they've conceded that it's a warranty job and BOTH are to be replaced as both have cracked on two different places. So that's just saved me about £1200!

Nothing to code then. (disclaimer: to the best of my knowledge)

Newbie here. Bought this a couple of months ago. Had a few things changed. Tints,fins,gloss black rims,had a custom badge made,de-badged. Still a few things to change but slowly. Love the car and the drive.

Progress is a bit slow as every job a start leads to another job, delaying the one I originally started. I just replaced both petrol tank straps. One was really badly rusted. The other may have cleaned up, but they are not that dear to buy new so I just replaced them

That's the thing with cars though - what may be silly to one person is important to another. Hopefully others can come to assist the OP. 👍

Couple of recent photos taken with the roofbox fitted, ready to swallow up all the gear we 'need' for our family trips