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Thanks. I got a specific chrome door trim edge, with a specific L-shape lip. i got it from AliExpress. its flexible plastic, that comes in different sizes. i got the 9mm thick, 10m version. it comes with double sided tape. so i cut to measure, n then stuck it on. i'm impressed at how long, and well its lasted. survived high pressure washes, high speeds, sunlight, and rain. its ridiculous how much a small piece of OEM chrome/black strip costs!! my version looks almost identical, costs a 10th of the OEM bits, and can b easily fixed/replaced.

EPC are a rip off. Price of batterys increased for winter. Price of aircon parts increased for summer. Always been the same. Try Tanya batteries. Amazing service and price i have always found to be spot on.

Do it manually so much easier 😂

Won't make much difference on a low speed commute. Improving drag only really works at higher speeds as it is cube law of drag against speed. I get my best mpg on roads with traffic at 50mph. I do that by anticipation, leaving a longer gap to the car in front, lifting early on the gas pedal, coasting to slow down (which cuts off the fuel supply entirely) and only braking at slow speed. Typically get 60-65 mpg out of town as long as I am not stationary for too long. So 620 miles per tank is believable on a long run at modest speed.

Nicely matched levels of overkill!

The deletes aren't too bad if you give yourself enough time, familiarise yourself with the bits and bobs your messing with and that... The thinking about it is definitely far worse than the doing it.

Thanks, I'll give that a go, I've got some tubes of silicone in the shed

Unless it is a Q90 Zoe it will not draw the 43 kw "only" the 22 kw. Only the Q90 had the 43 kw AC capability and if you had that option you had about 10 miles less range so was not such a win. I like the 11,16 and 22 kw chargers, as well as the girlie 3.6 kw and 7.2 kw home chargers as I think they are kinder to the battery pack compared to the 50 kw AC DC chargers. But Zoe limits the after AC/DC and voltage conversion to 124 Amps so if the traction battery is down to 350 volts you will get the 43 kw of charge rate from the 50 kw DC charger but gradually increases as the voltage increases and it maintains a good charge rate well in to the 87% mark which is probably where I would disconnect and get back on the road. Always a "BUT" and whilst I like both the IONIC and the MG and I happy with the Zoe in most regards...

Unfortunately if you want to own a car outright, £30k seems to be minimum to dump on an EV with your kind of requirement. If you are willing to loosen your requirement a bit, going into EV to satisfy 80% of your motoring needs and keep your current car for the other 20% longer drives. A whole world of second hand Leaf/Zoe becomes excellent purchase. If you can wait 3-5 years for current-gen EV to become common in second hand market, coming off leases. That is the best way to own EV's, let other people take the initial hit of depreciation. I feel it would be the other way. There is a supply bottleneck for batteries. Even if they can make 600 miles range that recharges in 5min, today's EV would still demand a price premium over today's fossil fuelled cars that is mass produced. Just look at price of Leaf vs similar mileage Golf. Over the lifetime of vehicle, EV actually make a huge amount of sense. £26k for a diesel would get ~55mpg meaning 11p per mile at £1.30 per litre cost + £150 per year service + £500 every 4 years for timing belt + £200 every 40k for DSG oil change => 26k + 16.5k + 2.3k + 1.5k + 0.8k = £47.5k to cover 150k miles over 15 years. £42k for a Tesla model 3 SR+ will get £2.5p per mile at off-peak leccy prices + £0 service requirement => £42k + £4k = £46k to cover same miles over same years.

£63 per week = £3276 per year, over 4 years = £13104 decent spec superb with all the space and comfort ie 2.0 tdi SE L trim through a broker = £26k and after 4 years car should be worth at least half the £26k ie £13k and if car values stay as high as they are at the moment , it may be worth even more. however you could keep the car for 10 years + and cost per year comes down every year. fuel costs will be be more for the diesel superb v electric but it's a small price to pay for the comfort and space 😀 at the moment there's no electric cars the size of a superb for £26k, so for me diesel is still the way to go a smaller skoda model is gonna be even cheaper if space/ comfort is not a concern

Agreed - 100% OEM is always best, and is always my preference. Have a look at all the other retrofits I've carried out. I have a pre-facelift, so initially I planned to retrofit the chrome strips from facelift taillights. However it turns out u can't do just that, and will need new facelift taillights (both inner & outer), new boot strip, new RVC, new boot button and change the wiring harness. Total cost will b well in excess of $1000AUD!!! No thanks. My craving for the facelift chrome strips is not worth that much. I'm happy with my LED pre-facelift taillights with my improvised chrome strip that cost me $10. Even the Skoda Technicians here at the service centre were stumped at the finish and quality of it. They were initially confused given mine is a pre-facelift. It's not for everyone. It's an alternative option. While it's cheap, it certainly doesn't look it. ....and added bonus - the same chrome strip roll can b used on the lower door guards, just like factory. Again at a fraction of OEM price.

I've enabled it via OBD11 and it still doesn't work. 🙄 Never has and doubt it ever will and afaic it's 💩.

So I put them on this evening: They're a touch larger than the 17s, I think they look good with a chunky tyre on. Seems to be plenty of clearance in the wheel wells anyway so won't rub, hopefully. The 312s are a tight fit but not touching.

I think your thinking of the wrong trim mate mine is a comfort and I've upgraded spots and such nd have meshed the grills etc looks way nicer I just mean the thin strips on the pumpers and I repaired one of the covers before but dome idiot whacked this one when it was parked up I want new covers as I have dome special paint I want to fo them eith if I can find a set.

Yeah I took the glove box out last week to put a new heater resistor on as speed 1 had stopped working, noticed a small paper sticker with a date printed on it I think.

Mine was reg 13th June 2006 so missed it's birthday 😁

Thanks for the responses folks. My tyre pressure is usually set to 32psi. I’ll try the steering in sport mode the next time I’m on the motorway and see if it makes a difference. Good to know that it stiffens up when in Sport mode.

Many thanks @roottoot , that's exactly the info I needed. 👍 @AnnoyingPentium yes, I think that's exactly what I'll do. Thanks to you both. H.

There isn't one listed only CANbus that goes to the J519-Onboard supply control unit the J533-Data bus diagnostic interface does have a "KLine" connected to the 16 pin diagnostic connector

That is the clutch bleed block known by VAG as the clutch peak torque limiter, it allows fluid tobe pushed into te cylinder as fast as you like (depressing the clutch pedal) but throttles it on the return stroke, their logic being they would prefer the clutch to slip than the transmission to fail if you dump the clutch. It causes big time problems of clutch slip on the higher powered TDi's when upshfting quickly to the higher gears from high revs with full boost and mashing the throttle, if you overtake someone and misjudge the relative speeds, change up and get on the throttle quickly to complete the misjudged manouvre you will have no drive when you need it most.

Nope. That’s just how it operates as default. There is a VCDS change you can make to enable the auto-updating. I’ve never bothered doing it though.

Think that will be a warmer weather job then lol other thing I need to do is the wing mirrors some idiot clipped it hard and put a hole in the wing mirror cover and ive heard you can buy the covers as I want to colour code anyway so would buy for both sides but I cant seem to find these any ideas ???

The VW recommended way for Macs is Keka and CleanMydrive, although I do know that some use Unarchiver. ATTENTION If the map update is performed using the Apple® OS X operating system you may find that Discover Pro does not recognise the map material or displays it incorrectly. This is due to a lack of compatibility between the “7 zip” program and the OS-X operating system. In addition, the OS-X operating system has a tendency to create hidden additional files on external data media. We therefore recommend that OS X users use the “Keka” unzipping program. We also recommend using the “CleanMyDrive” program to remove any hidden files. There the issue is whether the Skoda zipping method works any better in Keka. CleanMydrive takes out the dross that Mac's put in. Another solution is to use the VW portal that doesn't have the "funny" zipped file in it but still needs the special treatment on a Mac.

Yes; neither of them will make any difference to soot from a diesel, which is caused by over-fuelling.

Don't think there is one?

You don't need an excuse. Get one or do not. Can't imagine the aero improvement would be a lot, so the cost would take some time to recoup. Not getting one would allow you to plough the money into fuel instead.

My Citigo came with the the twin H7 lamp units (so on main beam, you have all 4 bulbs on), but I'd never use main beam in fog. This may be a better upgrade than a new bumper, fog lights etc...

My week 33 build Karoq is finally completed and apparently on its way now, so I would hope there will be movement for you Kodiaq owners. I think that 2 week closure did clear out a lot of the backlog

Happy 15th birthday, Furby! The car wasn't registered until 22/12/2006, but it built 15 years ago today according to all the stickers of various parts.

Site rules prevent me from saying anything more but DRM removal software is available (and some professional authors sanction its use on any of their works that have DRM applied).

Always.

Is the level of the brake/clutch fluid going down in the reservoir? Any fluid dripping from the bottom of the gearbox bellhousing? It sounds like you have actually changed the master cylinder? - this is the one mechanically operated by the clutch pedal. The diesel version has a concentric slave cylinder inside the bellhousing where you have to remove the gearbox to fix so you might as well replace the whole clutch assembly - it'll be contaminated anyway if fluid leaking from the slave cylinder. Also consider the condition of the Dual Mass Flywheel.

Cheers; will pass this on to my sister who's on holiday up there later in the month.

Basically a couple of days ago it disappeared, I did nothing except for adding a little oil(Car signaled it was low) and later on the same day I refilled, right after, turned it on and all the warning lights gone(low fuel/emissions one)

I agree with you; I removed the wording on the hatch - looks so much better IMO - and the tacky plastic L&K script on the front wings.

Most likely it will do, my 2019 car has one fitted at any rate.

Just think of it as expensive centre caps that come with free wheels attached 😂

It doesn't sound too promising! My experience from working on older engines (pre-electronics or computers) would be to remove the cylinder head next to get a good look. It may still be something relatively simple like the head gasket, but it's rather symptomatic of a piston head hole or broken rings. Sorry, I can't help you with the engine type differences.

Pins 1/2/4 Ground, Pins 3/5/6/92/87 +12v, Pin 67 CAN Lo Pin 68 CAN Hi

I don't have 18" now. I swapped them for 17".

Go for a Superb mate

I had the same problem, went to a dealer, they checked the lights and said that they are ok, but they were still too low. So I just adjusted them with an 5mm allen key and that was it.

The video shows the 22kW chargers. Not many of them but there is a mixture.

Based on the various volunteer and hackney taxis I've been in over the last 9 months, another Superb. Seriously, unless you have Rolls-Royce money I've not been in anything better.

The regen is triggered by either one of them once thet reach 24g ( I think, or something close to that ). A regen will also trigger above 80% if you are on a motorway or some high speed road. I've noticed that if I drive at a constant 100km/h for a few minutes it will start a regen even if it's not at 100% or near it.

Dear lord what is this post... why would you move the selector to N when coming to a stop, a DSG is a dual clutched gearbox that simply disengages the clutch packs when not moving. No wear, no problems, simple as that. Regarding brake lights on, auto hold will leave the brake lights on and im more than happy with that, if im stopped at the back of a queue id rather be well lit up than worrying about other drivers being slightly blinded for the short amount of time stopped in traffic.

Very old thread, but an appropriate time to update our system. We went evohome and I have to say, it’s fantastic:

@dpeoples37 dealer will NOT be able to have SmartLink activated in new unit. To get SmartLink activated new unit must be hacked. IMHO there are 3 options and 2 of them that make sense. I have ordered thmem from cheapest to the most expensive one. 1. replace glove box unit with Amundsen MIB2 (5Q0035864x, 5Q0035874x), preferably MY18 version (SW starts with 04, e.g. 0478). Disadvantages: no CD/DVD playback, no video files playback. only standard Bluetooth module (no LTE modem). Advantages: works with screen you currently have (although you can switch to facelift screen 5E0919605M whenever you want), supports Active Info Display, modern interface (grid menu with color pictures, switchable to old carousel style with monochrome icons). 2. replace glove box unit with Columbus MIB2 (3V00350xx). Disadvantages: only old carousel style with monochrome icons menu, no Active Info Display support. Advantages: works with screen you currently have (although you can switch to facelift screen 5E0919605M whenever you want), some versions are equipped with premium Bluetooth (including LTE modem). 3. replace glove box unit with Columbus MIB2.5 (5650350xx). Disadvantages: requires new expensive screen 5E0919606D. Advantages: supports Active Info Display, modern interface (grid menu with color pictures, switchable to old carousel style with monochrome icons), some versions are equipped with premium Bluetooth (including LTE modem). If you have issues with finding required units locally pls contact me on PM - I have a friend in Baulkham Hills who should be able to help you.

You will need component protection removed and then the new unit coded to activate stuff and get it matched to the car functions. Yes you are right that the screen you have is fine. It's the only MIB1 screen that works with MIB2 hardware.