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Welcome to the club,remember to take your blood pressure tablets.the amount of times I have been let down gets me more angry.joking

My job entails collating and recording information such as thefts from vehicles and I don't think I've come across a theft of alloys for many many years. Catalytic converters are a different matter, I've seen them go from discreet thefts from cars parked in long term car parks, to pulling up next to the car on the road in broad daylight with pedestrians about, crawl under the car with a cordless angle grinder and cut the cat off, with his mate stood by him with a baseball bat incase anyone tries to stop him.

Loosening the locking bolt first has the advantage that if you can't undo it for whatever reason, you abort the whole mission a bit earlier and with the wheel still securely attached. Battling a reluctant one with a possibly dodgy worn key, possibly on a widow-maker jack with all of the other bolts out is a bit of a risk if things come tumbling down.* I'd always bin them off for standard bolts on a daily of mine. *afterthought - the car's still on the ground at the point of first loosening, so this is probably all nonsense. Fits in well in this thread, I feel. 😁

Lovely sunrise ahead of Storm Barra

Testers give an indication of condition as they cannot be calibrated. The EN spec test is a week long affair of conditioning, discharge and recharge at controlled temps on several test samples. Midtronics deliver the best results but still need some interpretation with them. Using a hand-held whilst the battery is still connected to the vehicle throws further variables into the mix that confuses things further. The important take-aways here are the voltage relative to CCA indicated and rated values for the ambient temp. Disconnected battery - Ideally the closer a voltage is to 12.72v, the higher the indicated CCA should be in relation to the rated value. Fully charged and voltage stable at room temp, the indicated CCA should be approx 15 to 20% higher than the label rating on a cycled fresh condition battery. If it is close to or lower than the rated value, the battery is compromised and heading towards needing replacement. Recharging in this condition just delays the inevitable. The bigger the gap, the worse it is.

At 1/4 of your mileage my car with the same engine as yours would not pull the skin off a rice pudding, I was driven to action when the engine started shuddering on shutdown, a sign that the inlet tract and butterfly was clogged with clag from the excess of EGR after the emissions fix. It was indeed totally clagged up and had made the vehicle totally asthmatic, it was transformed after carefull cleaning of the throttle body and inlet tract. I then fitted an EGR emulator/simulator to stop any recycling of the gases so it won't crud up again, I also had a remap to an alleged 184hp which is probably the standard factory 170 hp map, it now has the mid range overtaking punch that it always lacked. Given your high mileage you should definitely have a look and declag its respiratory tract if needed.

I drive a Skoda Superb Combi 2,0 140 HP Diesel, engine CFFB, 1. Reg 2011 Jan 5. Lately it has 450.000 km on the counter. I do the oil and filter replacement in my own garage with the correct VW specified oil, Castrol LL, as a rule 15.000 km interval. After 15.000 km there is absolutely no oilconsumption, and no problems with the turbocharger either. I have had no oil pressure issues whatsoever, but the “engine icon” in the dashboard meant a replecement of the particle filter - a bit costly ! As a normal wear problem was replacement of the aircon compressor and condenser and hence the fan blower. As a whole the Superb is a splendid car with a very good fuel economy, and in spite of high km, it starts promptly even in severe frosty weather. I have over the years owned 4 Fiat, 2 Audis : 100 2,3E, a splendid car, an A6 2,4 V6, a “junk car” ! As a “home garage mechanic” i also perform all brake service, the parts I always buy in Germany, the parts price is less than half the Danish prices - - includes shipmet costs ! The Skoda Superb is the best car we have had until now !

Hi all, new owner and new Briskoda member. I recently bought my first Skoda, a 2015 Octavia Scout 2.0 Manual. She ran around a few miles, exactly 100800 of them, but she only had one owner and full (basic) service history. I live in Edinburgh and going to use her as my adventure car for my landscape photography trips 😊 Our first trip, in my first day of owning her was up north, to Aviemore with a 280miles round trip. She gave me no issues apart from shaky steering wheel, and she returned good fuel economy. I booked her in for her first service, for the water pump and timing belt change, Haldex service and wheel balancing. I'm looking forward to many more miles with her! Cheers, Zoltan

^^^ Great. If it is just worn out then fair enough, fair wear and tear. But see the links. So do not let them dispose of the parts.

Clutches can fail and a lot sooner than 2 years and 9,000 miles. The parts will need looked at to see if there is anything that has caused this very premature failure. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/493951-help-69-plate-10-tsi-se-manual-clutch-gone-after-2721-miles http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/446646-clutch-failure

Ordered a sportline late July. Its now at the dealer waiting for me to collect it at some point. Ordered directly, no meaningful extras added so perhaps option choices play a part in what they are able to produce and when (pure armchair speculation on my part). Communication on progress throughout hasn’t been good, it went from ‘being built’ to arrived in a weirdly short period of time. Stopping the chat team from offering updates was disappointing but I started to get inconsistent info from them so had given up on that anyway. With that said, I can’t begin to think how you build a comms strategy to explain the implications of a delayed electrical component to a random member of the public. Then multiply that challenge by tens of thousands of customers and it seems like a no-win situation for Skoda. Overall I guess it’s probably a very difficult situation for everyone involved in building what we are lucky enough to buy and (eventually) enjoy, I feel for them all.

Save your cash. You don’t need any special greases for the terminals. A thin smear of Vaseline is all that is needed. It’s offered as an optional extra and applied as part of the finishing processes for OEM spec batteries. It’s only a moisture barrier to stop lead oxide crystals forming on the posts before installation into a vehicle. If a battery is not performing or holding charge after a decent recharge, it’s done and not recoverable. There’s no harm in recharging a new battery. Just make sure AGM is charged with 14.8v limited power source/ AGM program. The other types are less fussy.

Now that I remember, I had a 1.4 16V back then when I joined eleven and a half years ago. I'd been on the VW forums prior to here with a rare manual Sharan VR6 (a 135 mph lorry) and an even rarer Passat GT 16V estate before that (Disneyland to Calais in 2 hours dead). I like obscure models but tend not to put makeup on them.

9 months "emoty" 😆

Thanks for both your help and took Austin 7 advise and sent his email to the company doing the repairs ,glad to say it looks like all is well but quite a saga and to be fair to the company spent WAY more time than I was billed for. As you can see from my posts it was originally diagnosed by RAC as an ABS sensor this was replaced but fault still there ... all the 5 lights still on and ESC and bent light function fault lights on info screen. Tec then opened up harness to see if copper wire in loom was broke all ok .Next step a new reluctor ring was suspect so went for a new SKF wheel bearing complete as this was the next possible cause of problems ..success we thought all lights out went for a run still ok then came back and took me out to show it was clear within 100 yds brake ABS and all lights on again and an intermittent fault with hard pedal kicking in the ABS . The ironic think is when lights all on car drove great when all lights where off got this vibration through pedal .Tec suspected it may be the ABS MODULE its self hope not that s a £800 part but phoning round asked loads of Skoda guys never heard of it in all there time .So booked back in again for another days look ,took on board battery situation although showing 12.8. 13 resting he put in new battery to try right away power steering sign and bulb signs went out . next was to check the 32 pin plug going into ABS MODULE tested loom on each pin and discovered a communications breakdown so replaced a new cable direct to NSF sensor ...all lights out and car seems to be all ok and all work is warranted for a year If this had been into a main dealer at £100+ an hour would have been a very costly repair as no diag tool was picking up a fault on module .hope you all have fallen asleep reading this .this is why forums are so good lets others narrow down things .

Just had a look through all the 2000yr catalogues then I bought the car..you are right no mention stating these items are "standard fit to 2lt"...I could have sworn that the 2lt Elegance got them..I did see one at the dealers with it when I got my car. It could have been a fully spec'd one (dealer fit)...& not standard fit?..!!!

Yep just a big on multi quote. I’ll take a look over the software vendors pages… can’t promise a fix. It may even be fixed, we’re an update behind and waiting on the final release of the next one to update. Hopefully before year end. On this my hands are tied. for now let’s see if we can do it again and then note it might happen. Multi quotes don’t get used that often, so good spot. thanks

Those who go out stealing wheels and tyres have all the gear and more than just ideas. They will have them off a vehicle a lot quicker than any Dealership or Tyre Centre Fitter and could not care a damn about damage to the vehicle. They will maybe have a catalytic converter off a vehicle before the wheels. It is how they earn their daily crust. Security fasteners will not have them thinking too much bother lets move on.

PD100 has a VNT, this is why they'll remap to 135 BHP. MAF is not the dominant input on a PD, it's more for fine tuning and emissions, I'd be looking for a vacuum leak preventing the actuator from giving full boost.

It doesn't need to be done by a main dealer, there are plenty of people who offer the service on E-bay. Be aware though that they will be cloning your existing key, possibly a problem if it is to replace an original key that was lost or stolen as it could still open and start the vehicle, paying the main dealer price means the lost key could no longer start the car, if they do their job properly. Mine was done on a Sunday afternoon by an Albanian who answered the door of what looked like a squat, he took my only key and dissapeared inside to cut it, it dawned on me that if he had broken into the house from the rear I was stranded and he had stolen my vehicle!!!!! He came out after a few minutes with a couple of hand held devices to plug into the OBDII port, copy the immobiliser data from the existing key and program the chip on the cloned one, cost about £50 IIRC, a fifth of the dealer price.

It’s not just the rim diameter, it’s the overall diameter with the tyre. The smaller rims come with deeper tyres so it will be similar overall. But spares are usually narrower as they are to get you to a repair centre at reduced speed. If you look on page 4 of the Octavia accessories brochure there are a mix of 16, 17, 18 inch wheels, with deeper tyres on the smaller sizes, but outside diameter are all similar https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/43543ebe-b876-4be5-9692-5aa8d68b302b

Thanks Joss1733. I always knew this was going to be a long wait. Original delivery date was Feb 2022 but I knew that was probably optimistic. I expect it to be more like July...if I'm lucky. I just wanted to share my progress with everyone.

https://www.lllparts.co.uk/en/catalogs/skoda/CZ/FAB/453/8/885/885070 Part numbers should be: 6Q0885643A (47H if Black) for 14, 1J0885313 for 2, and 21 for 6Q0885785 (47H if black). I don't know if you'd be able to get them individually these days, so finding a seat back or a Fabia for breaking would be your best bet. Hope that helps. Big thanks to @Wino for providing me with the links for this in the first place.6Q60.885643Q6Q0885643Q0885643

If u've got the 220, then u need version 2. I've had it on mine for a year now. Really great, and highly recommended.

Surely you "crack" the bolts/nuts off whilst the car is still on the ground relieving the tension/stress, then lift the car up with the jack and remove the bolts/nuts with out any danger of pulling the car off the jack?

It's not in my user manual (2017/05 edition). Anyone who doubts me can download it from the Skoda web site to check for themselves. All it says about the order of tightening is: Tighten the wheel bolts opposite each other using the wheel wrench (“pull-ing crossways”) I strongly suspect that the advice about loosening the anti=theft wheel bolt first and tightening it last is simply a convenience thing: you use the 'key' first, put it aside then don't use it again until tightening the last bolt. That saves switching back and forth between the normal socket and the 'key' more than necessary (I have a feeling that this is how I do it anyway, for that very reason, though it's been a while since I had a wheel off). As things stand now, I can't conceive of any good technical reason why the anti-theft bolt would behave any differently to the other wheel bolts in terms of holding the wheel on the hub. Or why one might want it to. As ever, though, I am more than willing to accept correction from an authoritative source.

🤯 My faith in internet discourse is restored.

Local (Australian) apiarists have long suspected that cheap imported Chinese honey was manufactured but it took some sophisticated scientific analysis to officially confirm it about 8 months ago. Honey is naturally produced when the forager bees return collected nectar to house bees who process it in their crop from sucrose to simpler glucose and fructose sugars. The Chines must have copied the process artificially and to be fair it fooled a lot people. Luckily Australian labelling laws mean that if the honey is labelled as produced here and from 100% Australian content then it is unlikely to be contaminated. Manuka is the New Zealand name for the Ti-tree plant common here and in New Zealand. Oils from the Ti-tree plant are used in a lot of being anti-bacterial and soothing medications, I swear by a particular Ti-tree based lotion for sunburn. The claim is that some of those medicinal qualities are transferred to the honey produced from the flowering plant. There is a lot of marketing faff and some fairly exaggerated claims for it which do not stand up real well to properly conducted independent scientific studies. A very interesting honey is produced by a particular stingless Australian honey bee ( I cannot remember the name but there are 11 variesties here). A very small bee it does not produce much honey but it is high in fructose and phenols that is being investigated because it is effective against antibiotic resistant bacteria. It was long valued for it medicinal qualities, taste and, I presume, ease of collection by aboriginals, hey a 40,000+ year old culture must count for something. Personally I agree with @Wino and I'd take the claims of Hoy and associates with a pinch of salt, or teaspoon of honey, whatever your preference. I'll remain sceptical until independently proven. I get to meet a lot of elite athletes and I'll just say that some of the (legal) supplements they consume in the search for better performance depend more on marketing and hearsay than real proven fact. Simply eating a calorie balanced diet of unprocessed and unrefined foods can give a person all the nutrition they need. We have got a beehive in the garden and enjoy eating our own honey. It seems to have slightly more subtle taste complexities than commercially produced varieties but I'm prepared to admit that most of the satisfaction is that it is home produced. I do not expect any health giving qualities from its consumption, bonus if there is.

Never been a fan of the way ‘park assist’ can get you into a impossibly tight space, inasmuch as those to the front and rear have to get out and as we all know, too many drivers don’t have the ability without some ‘assist’!

Ordered my VRS in January. Being delivered today. Moon White with DCC. Updates from Johnsons in Brum have been good and they explained that cars for lease seemed to be a lower priority than those which had been purchased which makes sense. VWFS been great about extending my old lease but I'm still annoyed they haven't covered the 3 Yr service cost.

So the rain stopped and I thought the thread was worth updating with an FYI (and title change), as it's now done. To do it on a 2.0TDI the following are needed: (This may vary depending on the car, so it is entirely at your own risk - if you're unsure of what you're doing/why or any safety issues, then don't do it and go to a garage). A new battery (Mine was an 096 AGM to replace the OEM 096 AGM) A 10mm spanner A 13mm socket with a long extension (to get to the bottom of the battery). Petrolium jelly or other similar protective lubricant (probably not required for modern cars) Pair of suitable nitrile etc gloves. Suitable Eye/body protection (The battery may be full of acid) Undo the black negative terminal and place it carefully out of the way (I placed it in a ziplock plastic bag to stop it touching anything). Undo the red positive teminal and place it carefully out of the way (Again I placed it in a ziplock plastic bag to stop it touching anything) Remove battery surround (Fabric type thing) by gently pulling upwards and wiggling etc as needed. If there is a protective cap over the negative terminal, pull the part attached to the battery upwards to remove. (It is in two holes) Use 13mm socket to undo the bolt at the front side of the battery (At base of battery near positive terminal) and remove the bolt/plate taking care not to drop them into the engine bay. Slide the old battery forward on the tray until it's released and remove it from the car. Fit the new battery by placing it on the tray then sliding it into place (May require a wiggle) Replace the battery plate and bolt, screwing the plate down, so the battery is securely held in place Wiggle the battery surround (Fabric type thing) back into the correct place. Clean up the battery connections removing any dirty grease and replace with clean suitable grease. (This is probably not required on modern cars - see later posts) Refit the red positive lead and do it up (Making sure to keep all tools well clear of the other battery terminal/metal) Refit the black negative lead and do it up (Making sure to keep all tools well clear of the other battery terminal/metal) Push the negative protective cap back into the holes by the negative terminal to cover it Close the lid of the battery surround and make sure everything is securly in place. Next you need to code the battery, so will need VCDS or another suitable tool. Again if you don't know what you're doing, just pay a garage to supply, fit and code the new battery. Code the new battery using VCDS under modules / CAN gateway (19) / Adaptations (10) and then selected the correct values for your new battery in the categories below: IDE03256-MAS06105-Battery adaptation-Rated battery capacity, IDE03256-MAS06106-Battery adaptation-Battery technology, IDE03256-MAS06107-Battery adaptation-Battery manufacturer, IDE03256-MAS06108-Battery adaptation-Battery Serial Number, My OLD Battery Capacity 68 Ah Technology Fleece Manufacturer JCB Battery Serial Number 1111111111 My NEW Battery Capacity 70 Ah Technology FLEECE Manufacturer YBX Battery Serial Number 1111111112 (incremented by 1) Check your new battery specs, as it may well be different to mine, for example EFB instead of AGM, different capacity/manufacturer etc) and make sure you pick the correct values for your new battery. I then took a very short drive for about 100 yards to sort out the ABS sensors all being implausable and warnings to go out. The tyre pressure warning system complained it had lost all values, so they were checked and that reset. Finally I auto-scanned the car, checked for faults and cleared any fault codes related to the low battery. All seems fine and it started instantly so I'll keep an eye on it over the next few days to make sure the battery has solved the original issue. Regarding the old battery and why voltage (with no load) isn't really useful in deciding if it's dead, it's still at a constant 12.7V without load. Stuck it back on the CTEK now to see how long it takes to get back to float charge (Shouldn't be long if it's healthy) and then I'll get it load tested in 24 hours to see what's left and if that is the likely candidate.

Aye 45mins. I'll send you a message mate! Even better!

I have asked them to bag the parts up for independent inspection, and I have quoted the webinar which identifies a clutch failure problem with Mark 3 Fabias : The Information is from a Skoda tech webinar from September 2020. hope it helps, Vehicle specification  Model: Octavia III, Scala, Karoq, Kamiq, Fabia III  Engine: 1,0 TSI (EA 211) in combination with the manual gearbox MQ200  Complaint/Fault symptom  Clutch slips, smell of burning from the clutch area  After having been removed, the clutch is found to be burnt or degraded/fallen apart Technical background/Cause  Due to anticorrosion protection applied to the flywheel and the clutch, the friction value increase is much more slowly. This may lead to premature clutch failures.  Despite optimizing measures (plate lining of the clutch S308, the diaphragm spring of the pressure plate with temperature stability and decreased rpm in the transport mode), the premature heat overload of the clutch still sporadically occurs.  The clutch failures occur in the range from 10 km to several thousands km depending on how the vehicle is operated.  Measure/Production change  Parts without Anticorit have been fitted to the vehicles since CW 20/2019 (except for Fabia III, where the measure has not been implemented yet).

You girlies will insist on using each others first names when sharing makeup tips so I'm afraid I don't know who you mean, now that I look again I see the reference to a 'slayer' which I'm guessing means a 2.0 MPI to you?

Hi ords, Thanks for your suggestion. I didn't check the fuses because all the seat functions except the memory are working o k and the "cleaning" just consisted of moving the seat back about 3 inches to remove the mat, so little or no chance of disturbing any wiring. I have tried resetting the seat memory by moving the seat fully forward, upwards and the seat back fully forwards but again the beep that was supposed to sound didn't.

You correctly pointed out that it's not standard on the PD100, as the only live member with a 2.0 MPI I felt it incumbent upon me to correct the record using experience rather than guesswork, it's how engineering is generally done in the real world. Mine does have the twin tailpipe backbox but they're bent and slash cut to point at the ground and hidden behind the bumper.

Mine didn't.

OP needs to post a pic of the p/no and software version then someone call tell him if it's MIB1 or MIB2

Same thing, no? 🤣

Its just an optional dealer fit overlay cover...I had looked at getting one fitted to mine back in Jan 2001 when I bought my MkI Elegance.. It was a whole kit of covers for the front & rear bumpers, roof spoiler extension & wheel arch extensions. The 2lt (8V) Elegance got it as standard..

I didn't do it myself but it's just the same as setting lane assist to "last setting" from what I understand. Lane assist can be changed using OBDeleven so I'm assuming the undertaking can too, I'm just not sure how.

Jay, you'll see many cars using a spacesaver spare that's smaller in diameter and width (tyre included in the measurements) than the other three wheels. As SkOmk4 said, they're designed to get you to the nearest repairers, and used no more than for a couple of hundred miles. So any difference in rotation speed, handling characteristics etc, is irrelevant, from a safety point of view because they also have a maximum speed limit, usually 50mph. But I've been overtaken by an Audi doing well over 80... must have had a death wish. I wouldn't make my decision between the Octavia and the Superb based on the spare wheel - there are a number of reputable sellers of spare wheel kits in the UK, I've used one near Manchester for our past three cars. There's a good saving over dealer prices. FWIW, of those two I'd have the Superb - even if only for the proper physical controls for the aircon!

The key part can be cut anywhere.....the encoding part has to be done at the dealer.

I picked up the mxs7 rather than the 5 because on the 7 the initial stage pulsing is at 14.something volts rather than 15.something on the mxs 5. For AGM batteries the 15.8 is apparently bad and the 5 at the time did the same even on AGM mode. You however make the point about monthly instead of two weekly, which is definitely fair.

Problems with the turbo control system and vacuum pipes will usually cause an underboost or overboost and triggers limp mode and then you get no boost at all until the ignition is cycled. Also remember the vacuum pump is shared between the turbo control and the brake servo, so check for splits in the brake servo vacuum pipes

Yeah its almost certainly going to end in a crash, and the FIA wont chuck whomever causes it out of the championship like in 97, when it was a meaningless punishment for Schumacher.

I don't use anything on mine except electrical contact cleaner...sprayed onto a cloth first & wiped around the terminal & the clamp...I don't use any white grease either...especially since I have both plastic terminal covers & then the felt type cover with lid/flap. 25yrs ago I did use white lithium grease, then realised that dirt stuck to it which is rubbish if you have to remove the clamp & refit & get the crud in the clamp...so just used WD40...that gets rid of water/dirt....now for the past 10yrs+ I use electrical contact cleaner...the right tools for the job..

Best let a garage assess the damage. The 1.4tsi engine has a steel sump afaik so difficult to see that being holed, though still possible, maybe the oil level sensor (plastic) which is under the sump got knocked or the sump distorted and started leaking there. It may have damage the sensor mount so the sump may need replacing too. Both parts not that expensive, and shouldnt take too long to change by a good mechanic, you will also need to change any contaminated belts. The belt in the picture is the auxillary drive belt (cheap to replace) the cambelt is under a sealed cover (not so cheap to replace) but may have escaped contamination. If you drove any distance with a red (as opposed to yellow) oil warning light (i.e. no oil pressure) you may have damaged the engine internally, that could be very expensive. For reference https://www.skoda-parts.com/catalog/octavia-3/spare-parts/engine/engine-block-oil-sump-15.html?strana=2&sort=&query=

Thank you very much I find useful everything you put here I'll do a scan and I'll attach pictures of work to completion I want to take the project to the end I hope not to get very expensive to have problems with my wife

The best way to warm an engine is to drive the car. Idling slows warm-up, and potentially washes the bores with petrol.