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Not sure how that would work, by your reconning they would have less need for rear DRL's as they have less daylight hours. Brake lights are 4 times brighter than a sidelight / rear DRL, there really is NO problem in them making the brake lights harder to see during daylight hours, especially as the vast majority of cars on the roads have the 3rd brake light. Where they are useful is when you don't have auto lights and you go into a tunnel, or pass under trees, or it gets a little bit misty.

Hi Guys, After much deliberation we've decided to take to plunge and get ourselves a new campervan/mobile home. We previously had an old Fiat based LMC camper from the 1980's that was gidted to us by family. We really enjoyed our trips away but missed some creature comforts with it being a little old. The ancient 2.5 diesel with only 70ps got a little tiresome lugging around over 3000kg! After that we got a caravan but sold this when we moved to Germany. We've since sold our house in the UK and made a tidy profit from it and since we're in no rush to buy something here (still on the cards) we've taken the plunge and ordered a brand new campervan. It's a Miller branded camper based on a Citroen Jumper 2.2 Euro 6 with 165ps and 6 speed manual gearbox. See if I can figure out the whole AdBlue situation. Thankfully you can fill up at most petrol stations here. They have AdBlue pumps for normal cars/vans and not just lorries. We went for the upgraded power (165 vs 120/140) as we're more than likely to be mostly up to or at the 3,500kg limit. We did want an automatic but that would have meant takinfg the Fiat Ducato for €3,500 plus the 9 speed ZF for €3,000! So we just stuck with manual. We've also specced it up a bit from the base spec: - DAB / Navigation with reversing camera - 4m awning - Gas oven - fly screens - Turbo-Vent (powerful fan in skylight to aid with cooling - the A/C was an 1,900€ option and added over 50kg) - 100w Solar - Blinds for the windscreen/side windows and a few other bits and bobs. Got a big shopping list to kit it out (plates and kitchen stuff etc) and also want to fit a couple of TVs (didn't fancy paying 900€ for 2x tiny 18" TVs from them). Delivery expected around August. Super excited!

A few shots from the rugby yesterday.

Yeah but only on models with A/C

Ah, the old goalpost shift, was expecting that. I created two of the same faults as the OP, by disconnecting the MAP sensor. These remained after reconnecting the sensor, and discoing the battery. I subsequently cleared them with VCDS. Would it have been better for me to change all the sensors?

Probably not the case for your fault, but it's an easy thing to try - If you look at the bottom of your heater controls, there's a tidy little grill. that's an intake for the cabin temperature sender. It can be full of dust, so if you can get a little hoover nozzle over it, it might help matters. A decent diagnostic scan will tell you if the mixer flap motor is working properly.

A couple from this evening

I'm not sure what the design is like on a mk1 Octy, but I'm pretty sure it's nothing like that on a mk1 Fabia?

I bought an Octavia Mk1 at 3 years old with 188K miles on the clock from a chauffeur friend, another friend from the same group MOT'd it for me, as he was driving it onto the ramp he said that the console bushes were knackered, very common, most are like that and he could tell just from the steering feel. He never failed it on the bushes because mates don't do that sort of thing but I bought a pair to fit. 15 years later the car was scrapped at 325K miles with the unused console bushes still in the boot, it never one failed a CT on them and if they were knackered I never knew any different 😆 - it drove very well but I'm sure I would have felt the difference had I changed them.

Common VAG fault with several possible causes ranging from broken wires in the loom in the door jamb area, another known fault is the door module itself. When the door is next open please ensure the child lock system is OFF as the lock will totally fail at some point, and if this happens with the child lock on you are in a world of trouble. Wires in the door jamb can be checked for damage easily by pulling off the rubber bellows. Checking the lock involves removing the door card, inner door hanger, door glass and outside handle - to be honest if you go to this much hassle just have a replacement handy and swap it over anyway!

I can confirm 4 years servicing with 2 services at 20k miles on a Kia EV6 is under £500 as a pack and even if you pay as you go it’s under £650 to do the required services. Where did they get that figure from for the EV6?

I used Cupra bushes on my first Fabia, horrible to fit but good performance. I used PSB on this Fabia, easy to fit, same performance. Powerflex are just as good and just as easy to fit but much more expensive. It's what the Americans call a "no-brainer" for the hard-of-thinking.

Depressing. If you're looking for a cheap car that probably won't bankrupt you with repairs, look into an older avensis. They were popular with cabbies for a reason.

Also quite a dangerous thing, George.

Come home to a real fire, buy a Zafira... Are you kidding me, Vauxhall are probably the least reliable cars on the road!

You best go into a garage or tyre and exhaust centre and see that a spring is not broken, and see just how the damper is. ? What Octavia, engine / gearbox is it?

I doubt the capacity is different, merely the shape. There's a lot of overthinking going on in here!

The deed is done. Ordered new Superb Estate 2.0 TSI 190 SE L 5dr DSG with following options: Metallic - Petrol Blue Wireless charging Rear view parking camera Travel assist - park assist, traffic sign recognition, adaptive lane assist, predictive ACC and traffic jam and emergency assist Retractable parcel shelf 1x USB-C port in the rear-view mirror panel Rear backrest release from boot Variable boot floor Crew protection assist and rear side airbags Temporary space saver wheel Winter pack with heated rear seats- Superb Dynamic chassis control Extended warranty (5 years or 100000 miles) Delivery estimate is currently 27 weeks. Ordered via CarFile who are excellent BTW. Also managed to get the order in before the prices went up on 1st April, saving £2500. Crazy ..

I'm going to throw in a complete curve ball ! Now I could be wrong but a friends B5 1.D PD Passat had fuel supply issues and displayed the same symptoms as you. Now it was a long time ago but it was traced to low tandem pump outlet pressure. Its very time consuming to try and troubleshoot but be methodical and do one part at a time. Its a PITA but keep an open mind and rule everything in or out no matter how daft you think it is !! We would all like to know what the outcome is !!

Don't worry, others are laughing at it. The most important thing is not to overthink this decision, you need another car, you are short of money, buy a cheap high mileage car in good condition that's been well looked after. Dimwits avoid high mileage cars like the plague because they mistakenly believe they will be unreliable, high mileage cars have spent most of their lives clocking those miles up on the motorway network sitting in top gear. Low mileage cars from big cities are the least reliable.

Hi All Wanted to start this thread as while there are many many posts on the topic of firmware updates to head units, not too many seem to cover the actual process end to end so thought it may be nice to share the guide i put together from multiple sources and i wanted to make it as detailed as possible to help anyone in the same boat as me.. I will try and answer in this post all the questions i had to save you the bother of looking on loads of different sites and threads Full disclosure:- As an IT professional all my life, I am familiar with the inherent risks and problems which can be associated with Firmware updates, but I don't know cars at all. Before going ahead, I did a lot of reading, research googling and you-tubing so be warned the process may be relatively simple but if an update like this goes wrong, it will cost you to have it fixed and I'm sure running the update will in itself invalidate any warranty. Any updates completed are 100% at owners' own risk. Neither I nor the forum site BRskoda maintain any responsibility for the process or any files downloaded or the source from which they were obtained. I cannot supply a copy of the source code please used don't ask, nor can i tell you whom can or might, but they are out there. You know who you are and you have my deepest and sincerest appreciation At the time of writing my Mib1 unit was running 0435 and 0490 was I believe the latest available. The Update file I used for 0490 was named MSTD_EU_SK_P6230.zip These are only my own findings and results when running a code update on an Ambulsmen MiB1 unit this process could change in future releases. Your outcome could be different. Before posting the below I cleared with moderators. Initial Prep Think do you really need to want do this..? (I had unimpressive DAB reception and very poor response on the touch screen using v0435 I heard it was improved in later releases). I wouldn't do it unless there is a likelihood of it definitely fixing an issue or problem which you are experiencing. Check and Confirm what sort of unit you have. Press and Hold Menu button for 5 seconds. Obtain below data as pictures and refer to another source to obtain the correct and appropriate files for download. [I strongly recommend using multiple virus checkers on the file or performing the initial extract a virtual environment] Personal Recommendations Plan and re-check everything (once started you cant stop it) Be slow and methodical DO NOT rush Print off the instructions and process to work through. Give your car a good 40 minute spin out on a quick road to top up the battery without using any utility which may put extra strain on the battery. (See this link to check your battery Status https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cqM79n7MeJw ) Run the update during the day for better light and so you wont need to use the cabin lights to see what you are doing. Disable daytime running lights to prevent additional and unnecessary battery drain. Get out and check your lights are actually off. The upgrade process will take 45-60 Minutes be prepared for that. - Do use a battery charger or jump pack the unit could well brick itself if power continuity is lost midway through the flash. I got one in a well know UK wide Auto-parts store for a shade over 30 notes. [Beware the charger you use will need to be Start Stop compatible if that's a technology in your car]. A big shout out to the below whoever you are you helped me build this guide https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gWXJI8V9OEc&t=213s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Sj5-KHuhRk https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/378192-amunsen-mib1-firmware/?hl= amundsen https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/480534-experience-of-upgrading-the-firmware-on-amunsden-mib25-system/ Process Format an SD card as FAT32 (mine was 32Gb). (Use a clean one not your SKODA one) Using 7Zip extract the contents on to the SD card. --- This should leave 3 Folders and 1 Text file on the SD Card. With the car ignition off remove any inserted SD cards CDs and USB media. Insert SD Card containing the Firmware Update in to slot 1 Attach battery pack \ charger confirm it is working as expected. ----- TURN ON IGNITION ONLY ----- ----- DO NOT START THE CAR ----- ----- ENSURE LIGHTS ARE OFF ----- ----- ENSURE AC \ FANS \ HEATED SEATS - ETC ETC are all OFF ----- Power on the ICE unit Press and hold Menu button again for 5 seconds Choose Software Download Versions Select Update Select the source (SD Card) [all others will be greyed out] Select the Release version detected First the Metadata will be validated Press Start A note is displayed say how "The update may take longer than 60 Minutes to complete and not to start the engine or interrupt the process once started" is shown Click Next The appropriate code will copy from the SD card to the unit The Unit will now restart and then download and restart multiple additional times (About 15. I lost count). (Up to this point the process will have taken approx. 20 mins) The Software update process will now create a "Mirror Copy" (multiple horizontal lines showing a copy percentage against each of them) When each line has finished its copy and reached 100%; The Unit will reboot, upon resume it will start on the next line The Unit will start another set of multiple Software downloads and restarts. The Unit will restart again When the screen Titled Software Update Result is displayed Click Update Summary Review the updates applied and return to the previous page. Click Close If displayed Cancel the Diagnostic Tester warning to check for error codes. These will however be visible to your Dealership upon service have them cleared for best practice. The Unit will restart again. [For the final time] Once the update has finished wait 5 minutes for any last background processes to complete Press and hold Menu for 5 seconds to confirm the new version is running. (Now expected to be 0490). I Started at 12.05 and following the above my update was complete by 12.48 Issues in 0435 Touch Screen not responsive DAB stations missing from radio + reception often poor (where i know we should have reception Was considering upgrading external Ariel) Playback from SD Card would not move on to next Album (when organised in to folders) SatNav UI well a bit "basic"... Status in 0490 Touch Screen 100x better DAB radio now works like DAB Radio (I live in a not so hot spot for reception.) Playback from SD card fixed Not had opportunity to play with the NAV yet (will try and post tomorrow) Conclusion:- If you have the stones for it; and you do have similar problems the upgrade is well worth the effort. IMO Update 0435 is S*!t and is full of bugs... Keep the wheels turning guys. Have a good one

I had this Denon setup for some time. Paired with my Fisher amp, Kenwood TT and the Sanyo speakers. All of the featured stuff is still up my loft. The white clip on the tape deck was to hold the door shut as it got smashed up in the post. It's a DRM-700 with many electrical gremlins. It's a 3-head deck though.

Had a NAD tuner and Denon Cassette deck, couldn’t give them away ended up chucking them recently, which was a shame. Always fancied the top loading SLP 1200 technics CD player. £1500+ on the bay now.

It does have ac. I will check it out, thanks.

Just cancelled my order and gone for a complete change of direction. Good luck to those who have orders in, I hope the situation gets better for you soon. Seems to be a perfect storm in the industry at present and stock motors are like finding hens teeth. Had a long discussion with my wife over the weekend about not having a clue when it would even potentially be built. We've got a large service to pay in August on the Astra and her car will need serviced and taxed in the next couple of months. So we've bitten the bullet and bought an 4 month old ex demo Lexus ES300h F Sport. Not a missile like the VRS would have been but should be frugal in town where it will spend most its life. Absolutely gutted to not have one last fast motor but, it is what it is.

Yes of course (generally, there are a few exceptions) and Honda - there are very good reasons for this, they make good long lasting cars (not usually exciting). Lower will be the German cars despite what many will say, and many on here, don't be fooled by old out of date reputations of build quality and reliability - otherwise you'd never look at a Skoda. Avoid vanity marques the owners pretend they're so good only to keep the resale prices up. BUT it's all about condition and history (if any is relevant and available) particularly more recent. And bear in mind a very well made car in the hands of poor quality owners can end up bad and not so well made cars with really good owners could be much better prospects. You won't get much for your money if you don't widen your choices and mind, don't worry about pleasing others with the maker's badge on your car. Old vehicles, perhaps even older than you think old, before the insane amount of computers can be good to run, less to go wrong with less computers too. You may be better off buying an 'unpopular' make and/or model that is lowed priced only for the reason of popularity - Britain is very snobbish, many here will remember when Skoda was literally a joke to the British, well media with other manufacture's advertising to consider. The popular cars are often so not for good reasons. And it might be you get better value by buying a vehicle below your £1,500 budget, but even if you had a much higher budget it's all a bit of a gamble, less so for an old Lexus, Toyota or Honda. Cabin room can vary greatly with some smaller cars having almost as much as the bigger cars, some 5 seater cars are more accommodating than others with even some large car cabins not being roomy for all and comfortable 4 seaters with an uncomfortable 5th seat. With a limited budget running costs are also a lot more important, real world mpg (not made up VW and others stuff), road tax, insurance and as you well known costs of servicing, maintenance and repairs, parts costs and availability. Based on the two 20 year old Toyotas I know, which are used and just about annually serviced and almost really nothing more during ,and the 19 year old Honda, that's where I'd start but also look at weird names the key-ring pub car bores don't have, Ssangyong even done 7-seaters but do your research, I've not had a 4-seater since my Capri. 😄

Whatever it is it's probably not serious or have any lasting effects so don't be downhearted. A good person with the help of a good scan tool and their good knowledge and experience will be able to help you, a very rough idle can be from many things which are easily sorted.

No, look 'em up on ebay, much cheaper and just as effective.

Yes, the maps appear on center screen. Wireless charging is pretty pointless in my opinion. I got it but it pretty much only keeps the phone charged and doesn't give any extra charge (maybe my phone is too slow at wireless charging or it's the pad), also the phone heats up. And on short trips I don't ever take the phone out of my pocket.

Ha, yeah probably came across as gloating but I really wasn’t. How can I gloat when I no longer have it? If I still owned it then yeah, massive gloating rights 😊

"Rocker switches under the multifunction steering wheel", by the manual's terminology.

No, but it clears the dynamic map so any bad sensor inputs will be deleted. I swear we've been round this loop before. Later Mark 2's have non-volatile memory so it doesn't work on them. What fault codes do you have? Post here and you never know, I might be able to help.

Hi my name is Dan, I one a rapid 1.4 tsi dsg love driving it and very comfortable

All EV have reduction gear. But same as many ICE car gearboxes, they say the reduction gear oil is for life of vehicle. Of course, it's beyond scope of this thread if we are only talking about manufacturer required service cost of new car up to 3 yo 36k miles. But often it's beneficial to change it. Bad things may happen to the gearbox if you are unlucky like this chap: https://www.speakev.com/threads/leaf-30-driveshaft-failure-update-no-its-the-gearbox.160142/page-9#post-3052659 Here is a video for changing reduction gear oil for Nissan Leaf and eNV200:

Battery disconnect plus shorting terminal clamps together has no effect on fault codes stored in the engine ECU on my 2003 manufactured, BBY engined Polo. Just tried it for your benefit Sep. 😊 The OP may well be able to confirm or dispute this finding on his car if he tries the same today.

Hello Ethan - welcome along Here on Brisky you'll find info aplenty. Skills are another matter Gaz

I have an extreme 225/35/19 in the boot of my hatchback and I can confirm it does fit in the well but it does raise the boot floor.

given its an 09 A3, id probably have a look for similar issues in the mk2 Octy section? they would share a decent amount of electrical gear as the later mk2s. not sure if the 09 A3 had moved to the mqb platform? if it did then the mk3 octy would be the hunting ground.

You do need to do an oil change on some such as this Tesla model. (Reduction gear oil.) 2 hours & £19 in parts.

If it was my car I would be doing a compression test to confirm the state of the piston/bore & valves also a "Sniff test" on the coolant to see if there was evidence of combustion gasses getting into the coolant and the compression test might highlight that as well, and probably as I've recently bought the kit, do a pressure test of the coolant system again this could confirm the results from the compression testing & sniff test

If it's a Mark 1 1.4 16V it'll work just fine.

Fully integrated asif factory fit 🤤

Well if I'm struggling to get to sleep I visit this and I soon drift off.

So basically every week it gets pushed forward one more week? 🤯 Fingers crossed 🤞

You know you've reached a certain age/point when you look on an internet page, for someone the other side of the planet, who's just got a BNOS heater core, and you think 'Oooooh 😎!'. Gaz

My Granda worked with a guy whose son had bought a MkII Astra GTE (or GSI?) c.1991 brand new and took it to a local long uphill straight near Auchinleck and gave it gutty to see what it could do. Hidden Police radar gun clocked him at 110mph (I think it was) at the brow of the hill. Lost his license for 6 months and that Astra sat on the drive for ages.

I put 150k as a guide mark, I'm2 looking at multiple between 120 - 180k, not looking for an investment as it would be a daily correct, but up North most are molested examples with well over 150k so putting below 150k would hopefully limit the amount of bad examples out there, as for the 'no yellow' examples, well its personal preference, the yellow ones don't interest me in the slightest.

Any idea where I can get a "Blank" Service Schedule/Record Book, I've just filled the last page in my present one...... Skoda will probably charge more for one than a Charles Dickens 1st Edition.... mick

I used the below company, very reasonably priced and fits perfectly. https://www.bootsliners.co.uk/SKODA-BOOT-LINERS/SKODA-OCTAVIA-BOOT-LINER/