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All done...heavy duty zip ties, 2 bungees and a ratchet strap. Reflective tape around the bars and its inside the mirrors and over the end a fraction. I can JUST about lift it enough to peer inside boot if customs need to search for bacon, cheese etc...

Seeing this reminded me of transporting my drum kit on and in my Frogeye Sprite in the 60s - floor tomtom on the passenger seat, hanging tomtom and snare behind the seats in the ‘boot’ area with the accessories. Bass drum was strapped onto the outside of the boot. Wish I still had both! 🙁

Out in Spain currently but look forward to getting back and putting many miles on this over the summer. All 4 corners of the country to visit!!!

Likewise, but with petrol. However, to the OP: dae whit ye like really, none of us can stop you. But aye, don't drive for the sheer hell of it, IMO.

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/453741-700-mile-tank-range-citigo http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/335047-so-what-is-the-best-,ilage-out-of-a-tank-anyone-has-got-rapid-is-best-skoda-4-this/page/4 @CY67 To save others doing the maths how many litres is that you are using? So how many litres in the 45 litres tank or when you refuel how many litres to brim it again. Are you venting it? PS Not sure a grill block is the smartest of idea if the weather continues warming up nicely as it is now for the rest of the summer. Coolant & oil as a coolant works best at the temps that it does and in warmer weather the airflow does it's job. Cooling oil uses up energy. Hypermiling works rather well with Turbo engines at not too high ambient temperatures and the cooler road surfaces when it is not very sunny helps with the tyres and rolling along using less fuel. The Hypermiler website has good tips. #No.1 tip is do not drive just for the sake of driving. http://www.hypermiler.co.uk/hypermiling/hypermiling-techniques PS I am using the Hypermiling experience i have gained over the decades in EV's now, but i am using electricity i get for free and that means the world is my Oyster while there is Free EV Chargers around, so mostly then it is Scotland that is my Oyster.

Impressive, but burning through tankfulls of fuel just to show yourself how economical your car can be seems a tad ironic. Why not just measure day-to-day consumption while driving necessary journeys; surely more representative than some eco-marathon?

Woah-oh living on a prayer...

I think this and another thread a couple of weeks ago show that no amount of want from the owner will unblock a dpf. Just get it cleaned or replaced. Part of owning a modern diesel unfortunately.

Do you mean to say that the rear indicator bulb lights up when you apply the brake when the indicators were not in operation? If so you have a bad earth and I speculate you may also have a non functioning rear screen washer. The earth terminal is behind the LH side luggage compartment trim, right under the connector in the washer pump tubing.

I spoke to the head of brand at my local Audi dealership back in March, I wanted an A6 Hybrid but he said there is no chance of it ever arriving after the meeting he’d had in MK that week, that is, the ev line had stopped building and that an alternative wiring loom provider (amongst other bits) was being sourced.. He said to go for an interim car that will meet my needs for now and then in a couple years the crisis may have blown over and I might be able to order a new A6 Etron. So I went from a Disco Sport P300e, to an A6 Hybrid to a pre-registered Superb Sportline+ iV. I love the skoda, it had 6miles on it and a significant wack off the retail price (compared to Landrover who were adding £5k to the retail price for a pre-owned model!) bmw have a similar issue, their headlights are all made in Ukraine.

A 2 seater convertible that's Not an MX5 😄 Thought it was time to bring it out of hibernation.... Been in the garage since Sept '19 due to you know what. New battery required but managed to use an older bigger one temporarily to start it. Purchased late 2006 after OH spotted it on Gran Turismo 1....can I buy that in UK? Apparently she could 😁 Kei class car so very small length and width wise. 660cc 3 cyl 64bhp and revs like crazy, ECU rev limiter chipped so 10k rpm if you're feeling no mechanical sympathy 😳 Geared for 130kph max regardless of power. Had a repaint 6-7 yrs ago along with a few other bits, I'll add at a later date along with some pics for scale compared to newer cars We've had 2 Road trips to Southern Spain, Le Mans/Classic 4-5 times and with a 25l tank plenty of stops every 2 hrs or so Funky interior as standard.. And a massive boot 😂 Any Q's just fire away

Hello to all, This post is for anyone who was wondering if the old method for turning off start-stop works on the Mk IV. TL;DR IT WORKS. I've owned a 2021 Octavia Mk IV for about a year now and it is my preference to start the car with the system disabled. I have owned other Skodas previously and was very satisfied to use an aftermarket memory module on the physical start-stop system switch where available. Other members who own a Mk IV will know that it is not possible to use this approach on our cars because there is no physical switch. The times that I forget to turn the system off before I start driving frustrate me intensely, because the system decides to cut the engine at the most inopportune time (in my opinion). It can only be disabled by using the touch screen. I try to avoid using the touchscreen when I'm already in traffic because I think it's pretty dangerous. I had been patiently waiting for better minds to work out the coding required to permanently disable the start-stop system, but today I had enough. I wanted to see if the old method of disconnecting the little black plug from the negative battery terminal worked. I had not been able to find any reports of people trying this method on the Mk IV so far, so I thought I might as well try it and post here with the result. After reading page 30 and page 65 of the Mk IV electrical system service manual, I disconnected the plug from the negative battery terminal and went for a drive. The plug on mine was orientated differently to the diagram but it was easy to tell that it was the same plug. It worked exactly as I expected it would. The start-stop system was disabled without any input from me. I went for a few more drives to see if the rest of the car's functions were affected by disconnecting the module. I can say that, as far as I can tell, none of the car's other functions seem to be affected. The message to inform you of the start-stop system error isn't even annoying on this car! You just get a momentary notification on the left side of the virtual cockpit the first time that you come to a stop during that power cycle of the ignition and then it goes away! It doesn't bother you again for the rest of the drive. It doesn't even play that annoying bong sound that every other error message or fault code plays. You will find the error message under vehicle information on the infotainment unit, but for that you'd have to use the touchscreen 😁 For me, this is a vast improvement over cutting the engine right when I don't want it to in the event that I've forgotten to use the touchscreen to disable it. Now, it's important to note that the service manual states that module J367 also controls the auxiliary heating, so if your car is fitted with that option then this method may not be for you. My car doesn't have that option and it's not available in my region, so I can't say for sure. It also states that an entry is made in the event memory for every time that the system produces an error. I don't care about this because since the last software update, my car throws fault codes for emergency assist and travel assist multiple times every second drive or so. It probably records so many errors it doesn't matter. Hopefully software version 1896 fixes some of those when I get it. It's a good thing I'm very tolerant of the software bugs, because I do really like the car otherwise. I hope that this post assists anyone who wanted to try this, but wasn't game to go in blind.

Remarkable results that u got in yr Citigo while u had it. Do u remember wether or not u had eco tyres that reduced rolling resistance or anything to aid u in these attempts? Also did u draft a lorry? Just asking as I want to crack 900 miles in my 1.2 110 TSI MK3 Fabia and have a set of sporty tyres on. I’ve managed 839.5 up to John O Groats with luggage and averaged 71.2 mpg but I definitely could have done better as traffic wasn’t on my side on the A9. My trip computer only ever said 66.5 mpg when my car ran out. I know I can definitely crack it if I don’t go up as high in the country.

That is very impressive what that guy got out of his Citigo. When I go on longer journeys I brim the tank and depending on how late I leave it can put 50 litres in + on empty my car has a 7 litre reserve so that’s about 58 litres. I travel at night and I wouldn’t subject my car to hot weather with a grill block. Also my recent trip I had a make shift grill block and kept an eye on temps and they all where within the normal area. My intercooler is at the bottom of my car. I get where yr getting at with coolant and oil temps but as the nights tend to be cooler then the days I’d try and plan around the hot days/nights. Thx for the link to the Citigo thread and the hypermiler website. I should have added when I go on my longer journeys I go and do stuff at those places and just so happened to want to go to Scotland for a little holiday. When ever I need to go north again I’ll take tips from the hypermiler website.

I bought one on eBay Skoda Bolero Radio Code Stereo Codes Symphony Unlock | Fast Service All Models | eBay Turned up 2x days after paying on PayPal, worked fine

BMW have come up with some smart solutions to chip problems. For instance, my BMW doesn't currently have Android Auto/Apple Car play because BMW sourced chips away from their regular supplier (due to shortages) but they made sure the replacement could eventually be updated to provide this. I've just heard that customers cars are now being updated, some OTA and some needing a dealer visit. First world problem, but it avoided BMW having to pay £500 compensation to its customers (that was the agreed amount with its dealers).

Yes, you have a dead cell, I'm in danger of repeating myself here but: Buy A New Battery! Ok?

BMW are managing it so much better than the VW Group who were too slow getting the tech right and have had to use the likes of MG Motors to assist them getting the emissions target. http://www.thedriven.io/2021/12/14/nio-and-xpeng-join-carbon-pool-to-help-vw-meet-eu-emissions-target BMW are shifting lots of hybrids and EV's and 3 cylinder petrols (diesels 3 cylinder retired...EDIT) http://www.onlineev.com/bmw-beats-eu-co2-emissions-target-boosted-by-higher-ev-demand

VAG group as a policy only build cars to the spec ordered (only exception I know is US spec cars have the pre-wiring for their satellite radio system installed).

You need to remove the entire centre section then unbolt it from underneath

Hi Jono9, If your car is originally with phone simbol on the right MF buttons and without heating on steering wheel, I think it will work. But I don't have experiance with the model before Face lift. I was read also in russion forum, that this retrofit works for all MQB models. So, you can buy it. I hope this is helpfull to you. BR, Nedko

22. Build completely out of the blue. Nobody expected it.

My Tuscon 230 N Line S is here after ordering 8 weeks ago! Big shout out to Lightcliffe Skoda of Warrington- absolute joke of a dealership. You live and learn.

I think there is a topic on Briskoda where it was confirmed that unplugging the start/stop cable from the battery causes BMS (battery management system) failing to optimally charge the battery.

Went from two cars to one last year and following extensive google searches I narrowed the choice to Citroen C4,Ford Puma, Kia Niro and Skoda Kamiq. After many test drives chose the Skoda Kamiq. I was given two cars the test drive at Mitchells; 1.0 SE dsg and a 1.5 SEL manual. I didn’t buy from them but travelled to east Yorkshire. Mitchells were aware I wasn’t buying from them but their service was excellent. They fitted a reversing camera for me which was flawless. Took it in again to look at an annoying rattle when I was informed that Skoda only cover rattles etc for the first 6 months on the new car warranty. They found the rattle was caused by a panel under the car that hadn’t been tightened properly when I had a tow bar fitted (not by Mitchells). I was told beforehand that they would give me 1 hour labour free and would contact me before any chargeable work was done. No charge for fixing the rattle. They updated the Amundsen software, washed the car and painted the tyres. All in all my experience of the staff at Mitchells has been very good. They bought one of my cars from me and gave me a better price than anyone else in this area. I highly recommend Michells.

George, I was talking about cars 10 years or more years ago. The construction rules may have changed since then, especially as digital dashboards can offer more customer choice such as perhaps being able to choose the display to match the country you are in.

Some clips of Rusty from Wookies https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X7u4lj5iG2s

Had it running today to jump-start a few cars, so ended up taking it for a few runs. First thing I have to say is the tigersealed mount was very firm on start up, but softened up a lot in the hour or so It was running, and I know from experience it'll settle down a lot more just by driving it. Above idle, no extra vibrations. Changing gears has so far proven to be massively improved, absolutely fantastic now! As for the polybushes, I've not noticed any extra roughness from them while driving. It just feels a lot fresher now than it was before. Very satisfied that all of that effort was worth it. Car drives fairly straight too. Alignment obviously will need checked over and adjusted, but It's perfectly driveable like this. Did a bolt check when I was done, and that was all fine. Didn't fit the gearbox mount nor adjust the cables so I can only imagine the gear changes will be even better when all that's done. More work to be done of course. Hopefully I won't need to deal with any more broken bolts ever again.

The only detrimental factors that continuously running a tank down low to empty that I could think of is that the fuel pump in the tank relies on the fuel around it to keep it cool so the pump could overheat and the other is that running high pressure injectors without fuel is not what they were designed for. VW Group manuals do not recommend any additives to fuel but I have noticed that our Skoda retailers have charged me for putting 'cleaners' through the system during the annual service. I now make a point of telling them not to do it.

Sounds like a duff battery? Does the battery light come on when you put the ignition on (engine not started)?

Not due to use the car tomorrow. If I remember Monday I'll report back 👍

This looks normal to me. I think the Passat has a slightly better / clearer light pattern. @MarkyG82

As I already implied the difference is that absolute pressure is 1 bar (say 15 PSI) higher than relative pressure. If (4) can operate at 30 PSI absolute, then it can operate at the 15 PSI relative that definitely doesn't force air into the ABS valve block.

I had one of those Ezi-Bleed kits when they first came out ( late1970's) and found you needed to lower the spare tyre pressure to under 10psi (5psi worked best) otherwise the cap didn't seal on top of the reservoir, hopefully they have improved the seals since

As long as the fuel has no carbon, ie it is converted to run on hydrogen or hydrogen dirivative that is fine. Every gram of carbon burnt moves us closer to the apocalypse, maybe not our lifetime but for those that follow.

Gates or Dayco are usually a good bet

1) you need to go into the advanced menu and swap it. I think the pin 3368 2) Did you disconnect the fascia and turn on the ignition? If so then the airbag light is part of the airbag circuit. You'll need Carista or VCDS to clear

Please only use English on Briskoda. 👍 Hey, I have such a dilemma I'm going to buy new tires and I'm thinking about rims. I have a 1.6 tdi station wagon (90ps) and now I have 16 comets from Romster with 205/45/16. I've been thinking over 17 but I don't know or I'll lose a lot of comfort and performance. I even had the idea that I would put 15 there but it would give me small rims but again probably quite comfortable. It is possible to have 17 on the car when I go to the MOT. Because what I looked at my car is a maximum of 16 rims, but I know that some of them also have 18 rims, but these are probably VR. Does anyone have experience with 205 55 R16 tires? Because I read that my Skoda is on 205 45 R16. I think size 55 is better for disk protection and better comfort. It may sound a little confusing, but thank you for any advice and feedback.

back in stock UK version https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234568127287 EU version https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234568129910

Clumber Park was lovely in the late afternoon sunshine

Got a maxton front splitter and also another front bumper that was in far better condition then my old one, it still needs a repair at some point but will do fine for now. My next things are get the brakes on, front bumper sprayed. And I’ve got some apr coil packs and new plugs to go in at some point too.

The amount of fuel tanks I’ve pulled from cars including my old 1984 vw polo and there was literally nothing in the tank, no sediment, debris, dirt. this thing of not running a tank dry is a load of rubbish to be honest

What is the sediment, and where does it come from?

Common problem with summer tyres left on all year The UV is only one factor, so is using them in cold weather when the polymer is harder and causes hairline cracks until you have driven far enough to warm up the tyres. Cracking doesn’t seem to be a problem for those who use winter tyres in colder weather, which suggests it is not just UV, but using them at inappropriate temperatures. Of course if you want to keep same tyres all year should be buying all season tyres

Is it this:- Thanks, AG Falco

I'd suggest looking under the car to see what it's attaching to the underside... I can't imagine it's a factory thing so a previous owner or garage have done something stupid by the looks.

The sky was ideal for reflections this evening 👍

Once you get explanation that you can't easily convert 02xx to 04xx, this is the way that you need to do for that. all files you can find on mega, and of cource all on your own risk. 253 to 478.docx