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My vrs has arrived at the dealer yesterday, unfortunately no pictures sent. Picking up on Tuesday… can’t wait just shy of 11 months since ordering

Just called into my local friendly Skoda Dealer. I got a build week of week 44.

In Tesco car park this afternoon. 1967 model: I think they probably clocked me taking a sneaky pic, so I complemented the owners 😎 She said they tow a 1971 caravan with it, and no matter where they go, it always makes people smile 😁 Which it certainly did me. Gaz

For the price of a new filter, certainly worth trying.

I have upgraded multiple units from 0478 to 0480 and have NEVER had any issues @Fix666 check your PM for download link

A few from bike testing today.

The first time i did mine they soon faded again so after the 2nd time i applied clear headlamp/uv protection film and over 3 years later they are still fine.

Bingo! Been saying that for half a year now on this forum. Maybe people will start to believe me now, when we wait 1 year+.

decent kits but it still dont last that long mate before it starts fogging again i did this with mine and replaced them 6 months later as they were fogging again.

Reading the link kindly shared, I appreciate specs can vary country-to-country but I don't understand how some countries are offered longer warranty cover. This report suggests 5 years is offered as standard which can be upgraded to 7 years. I never understand how in the UK, 3 years is still an acceptable standard? Sorry to hear about those who are still waiting for their orders. It is unacceptable and yet, manufacturers continue to bump up the prices twice a year at minimum, due to 'costs'. And yet, whilst Skoda production in quarter 1 in 2022 is down 1.9% and deliveries are down 25.4% compared to last year, sales revenue is up by 1.0%. It is speculation but I wonder if that has something to do with hearing more and more that new orders were being built ahead of the extremely patient customers.

Almost. Youdon’t need the 5 presses, just open window, hold switch in open position for a few seconds, close window and hold switch in close position for a few seconds then repeat on other windows.

More photos from @The Surgery showing what was done - cut a hole, cut out the bottom to get to and remove the gauze filter. Clean, degrease and coat the inside with POR15 products, weld up holes, re-paint. Also they repaired a cracked weld on the filler neck where it joins to the tank.

It's back and looks great! Just need time to work on it.

Update from my last post. It appears I forgot to add the following changes A5 -> Hc_Variante: 2 A5 -> Klr: Enabled. This one will enable capacitivesensors. Travel assist now appears to be working fine and not getting any warnings regarding hands on the steering wheel. Only thing I’d like to get working is the Travel Assist options on the main Assist screen. On reflection changing the steering wheel was worth the effort.

A few from Chatsworth House today Apologies for the duplication!

I'm making this guide in hope that it helps other that are in a similar position. Through this guide you'll have a step by step process on how to access your door from inside the car. If you door is locked, deadlocked, or cables have snapped this will help you. Tools you're going to need Philips Screwdriver Trim Removal Tools (as to not damage any plastic parts Drill with drill bits or Dremel Step 1 You want to sit in the site facing the door of your choice Step 2 Remove the A-Pillar tweeter cover Step 3 Remove the inner door handle with the trim removal tool, on each side gently pull up. Step 4 Remove the window switch, I found that the easiest way is to life up the handle and put a trim tool in on the side and lift it out. There will be a tiny hex screw behind there, make sure you unscrew it and take it out! Step 5 There are x2 philips type screws, these need to be removed with a long screwdriver. Step 6 Now the tricky part, getting the door card off with minimal damage if any at all. Grab that trim removal tool once again and place it at the back (as in picture) and try to unhitch the top of the door card over the lip on the door. Step 7 Once you got the corner, you'll see that you can go all the way along to unclip it all. Step 8 Now removal the speaker grille and the speaker with your philips screwdriver. You'll see that I use VW/SKODA speaker adaptors for a neater install, if your's are standard then you'll just have x2 speaker connectors directly on the speaker. Step 9 All around the edge are screws that hold the door card in place, normally the door would be open and you'd unscrew them. But, as we cannot do this, you'll need to literally yank the door card straight off. Be sure to move the seat back to give you more space. Step 10 If you've managed to create a gap, be sure to un-clip any connectors before completely removing it, you don't want to damage the loom. Step 11 If the door is deadlocked and there's no power, no audible click, then you're going to have to cut into the door lock module. Look closely to my picture, you need to cut directly under the cable which is attached to the module. Step 12 Try not to go to deep as you don't want to ruin the cogs/gears. Once you can see the cog, you'll need to start to turn, unwind it until you hear a click or that you can pull the door cable and see if the door opens. Step 13 If you've done it all correctly then your door will open! Step 14 Inspect the door card for any damage, I had very minimal but I wasn't to worried as I have a complete VRS interior in the garage. Step 15 Give your self a pat on the back! If this was helpful and you would like part two of the guide which includes, handle and door lock removal then hit the like button. I'll put the effort in and complete part two and get it posted. If this was helpful, again hit the like button as I can always make more guides on the MK1 platform. I'd love to see pictures and hear your story on how you achieved this, so post your reply below! Thank you!

This is a well talked about problem on the front, but not sure about the rear. I sprayed up all my joints front and rear the other weekend, I did have front end noises prior to this. Now I have nothing! There are threads in here about it.

If one lives in the Worcester, Tewkesbury, Gloucester or Cheltenham surrounding areas then one can cut many miles off the journey to London using the A roads rather than the M4 or M40 plus the cruising speed is going to be more in the super eco zone rather than the guzzling motorway speeds. Therefore I am happy that there is more charging points on these A roads. A part from Banbury there seems to be a bit of shortage healthy sized charger banks on the M4 and M40 route.

Good write up... interested in that 306 if you sell, by the way.

Yes, this happens when the demand (over) exceeds the supply, and the manufacturer can choose from the bulk and decide on orders with a higher profit margin. From the company's profitability point of view, this is the smartest strategy they can pursue. We, the ones waiting, are the collateral damage of this business strategy.

on front axle Eibach Pro springs from Audi Q2 will give perfect stiffness with zero lowering. for rear axle you have to find some stronger alternative as i found for my 220ps FWD hatch, i installed Eibach Pro springs from AWD Superb and got perfect stiffness with just 12mm lowering part codes and pictures -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/485647-bilstein-b6-dcc-shock-absorbers-available-at-last/?do=findComment&comment=5676626 please share your opinion, what you found for rear axle, my next, already ordered, will be 280ps AWD

If it was a pot hole that caused the damage then get back to it and take a photograph of it with a ruler in situ and you should be able to successfully make a claim against the council. For that sort of money it has to be worth persuing. Cheers Paul

Stage 2 polish the headlamps in circular motions until you see them starting to look like original again with the polish and mop head. Then wipe of clean of the polish with a rag or paper and make sure all it cleaned of. Stage 3 add the clear UV restorer in layers the liquid with the spunge across the headlamps until you see the layers look correct and remove any over spills. This is the result below amazing like brand new if you do it correctly.

Thanks Warrior193, that is really helpful and I will shop around when the time comes.

Aye I'd just replace the filter. Nip to a local motor factors or something and get one bought. See where that takes you by way of fault finding.

As rootoot has put. You've got a different engine now so you need to get used to it and unless you're driving a different vehicle don't worry about the differences just get used to them. We've had 3-cylinder engine cars and not just used for pottering around town, with turbos and one with out, only the non-turbo was a 1 litre the others a lot less cubic capacities. By what I've seen on here they were probably more refined engines, and were in slightly lighter cars, but I'd not worry about a 3-cylinder engine just perhaps more careful to keep up with timely servicing, maintenance and repairs. I think you're wise to go for annual oil & filter changes and I'd go for good quality oil (but then I always do) but you'll get what the dealer/garage has regardless. Someone else here reckoned it was wasn't a good idea to let the car pull itself along on its computer settings with your foot off the accelerator as it could cause more wear to clutch/ flywheels - but I don't know. Inflating the tyres to their eco setting shouldn't give extra wear, it's not happened to the tyres on my wife's Fabia but does give a noticeable decrease in rolling resistance so presumably some effect to mpg and the emissions (muck/crud/crap/bits of 'rubber) that comes of the over large and wide too low profile tyres that fashion dictates are on modern cars. Some say all tyres should be inflated well over car manufacturers recommendations, I think you can experiment a bit with different tyres but not stray too far from what the vehicle manufacturer recommends.

Hi Gru, welcome to the forum. I think you should get a quote from a few other places! I had my cam and auxiliary belt changed during a service in November 2021 - cost was £436.66 for parts and labour. This was at a large independent. The cambelt kit (including tensioner) was £98.42.

thanks for all the reply's, that gives me something to think about and i can start pricing tyres and fitting very good point about the 4 wheel aliment ! cheers kev

installed rear Eibach Pro springs, rear Bilstein D6 DampTronics still out of stock 😞 distance between wheel center and arch corner front F11-85-043-02-FA (from Audi Q2): L. 376mm R. 378mm + ~2mm if compare to stock rear F11-79-008-01-HA (from 4x4): L. 354mm R. 354mm - ~12mm if compare to stock strange, i were expected opposite result - waited for ~10mm increase, there is one example: -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/478335-does-the-sportline-have-stiffer-suspension/?do=findComment&comment=5573227 more over, my car has installed Audi's rear spring pads + ~6mm Eibach Pro AWD vs OE FWD springs on Sunday i'm going to ~5k Km test drive, two weeks Riga.LV <-> LT;PL;CZ;DE trip

5E0919605H (6.5", pre-lifted) or 5E0919605N (8", face-lifted)

I’d suggest a short subscription to ekta and printing out the parts list of areas you’re interested in for the 4x4 and the vrs. The differing part numbers will reveal all 👍 FWIW the 4x4 has higher suspension than a vrs and I think the vrs got upgraded brakes but the 4x4 didn’t.

Until October

@VanhireBoys - I'd agree with @AnnoyingPentium about the aerial base; it's a separate component from both the mast and the in-car co-axial lead to the head, and also the bit that is most likely to suffer water ingress.

The design of the Red bridge Oxford hub, and its link to the National Grid but also the local very large battery storage devices which means that the AC and DC charger at these Oxford sites can be power 24/7 and with the higher rates of power and at potentially lower cost, or higher profit to the operators. The A34 is a very busy Truck Road. almost the key one for South-North travel in the centre of England, though I do find the bit to the South of Oxford not so great for connectivity to good A roads and the link down to the M4 a little slow sometimes and not built for higher cruising speeds compared to the North side of Oxford and its links to the M40 and East-West A roads like the A40 and A44. The Red Bridge Oxford hub has been designed to end up with at least 400 EV charger so fairly future proof.

Have you reset the one-touch open and close function on all four windows?

Highly unlikely that the sensor is faulty or has failed, very probable that there is a connector problem. Resetting the warning light will most likely cure the fault until the next occurrence.

It appears to refer to a coolant pump, judging by this search result (post #124). VCDS - How To Guides - MK3 Leon 5F | SEATCUPRA.NET I'd say it will be safe to drive.

I don't think that's true as there are separate TPI's and updates for the screen and MIB2 units. I can also confirm I had no issues with the 0480 update in my car, the screen was running 8130 both before and after the 0480 update Example TPI are below showing the differing updates. TPI 2049708/1 (14-Dec-2017) covers a screen update. TPI 2049459/14 (05-Oct-2021) covers the MIB2 update. Customer statement: Customer may complain about one of the following phenomena: • ABT display failures (black screen). • MIB switching off, restarting – with a connected mobile device with the IOS operating system. • MIB without sound, or sound cannot be controlled, voice control malfunction. • MIB sporadically switching off or gets frozen while calculating route or while navigating. • MIB does not allow the lower menu bar to be automatically hidden in the navigation mode. • MIB does not allow the activated additional information window to be closed. • Virtual Škoda Surround not working. • Radio is playing when customer comes to the locked vehicle. • Deactivating auxiliary heater pre-selections. • Changing time indicator. • The hands-free function is not available; displayed is the indication „Phone not available“ and Bluetooth does not work. Workshop findings: • The customer statement can be reproduced. Technical background Faulty SW MIB Standard (Amundsen, Bolero) in vehicles manufactured in the period from CW 22/2016 to CW 45/2020. Production change Modified MIB control unit Generation II with new SW version introduced since CW 45/2019 Measure • If the customer complains about one of the above symptoms, perform the update of SW MIB Standard (Amundsen, Bolero) to the new SW version. • Updating procedure of the MIB control unit using the application SD Creator – see Service Information No. 2034053. • To download the SW 369 (to be applied to vehicles manufactured in CW 22/2016 – 22/2017), enter Part No. 5FM.IB2.STD.369 in the application SD Creator • To download the SW 480 (to be applied to vehicles manufactured in CW 23/2017 - 45/2020) enter Part No. 5FM.IB2.STD.480 in the application SD Creator Important notes: If the following instructions are not observed, the updating process may be stopped and the navigation unit blocked. Warranty costs will not be accepted in such a case. • The respective flashing data can be used only for vehicles manufactured in the periods mentioned (SW 369 for CW 22/2016 - 22/2017, SW 480 for CW 23/2017 - 45/2020).

Not going to lie J.R only just seen you reply! I got a garage to swap it for me in the end. I could have done as you said above, and 5 years ago I would have, but in the end I just didn't have time/ could not be bothered to mess around! On the upside, the car has is charging at idle, the AC works full time and the dash cam isn't turning off randomly. The very slight mis fire i had at startup idle has also gone which when thinking about it does make sense so overall i know it cost more but it's worth it for peace of mind. Will swap and sell on the old one though as the case just needs a wire brush, a bit of blasting and protection put on to fight another day, plus new parts obviously. Rusty

I have uniroyal rainsport 5’s on my superb estate. They are great. Quiet, comfortable and give good grip in the dry and wet. They are a mid price tyre too.

You don't need the thermo controlled flap at all. I took mine out altogether. Now it just takes in cool air from the front of the car as I blocked up the hot air hole to stop the engine taking in warm air from the engine bay. If your mate has a cone filter his engine will be taking in the warm air from the engine bay, which I guess doesn't matter a great deal but I don't think it's ideal.

jeezus pete, at current prices itd be cheaper go to the main dealer

Maybe needs Dsg oil and filter change?

Does it drop in and out? Mine is doing this, think it's the aerial base.

Original Beyond Economicrepair

Been a little while since I produced a post, but I've been busy with work and other life ****e yadda yadda yadda and the car has become a backburner type deal. Okay, I've got the excuses out of the way, time to actually get onto the important ****. To bring you all up to speed in small segments... Part One of Suffering: Brake Servo Hose The split brake servo hose that I masterfully taped up was constantly playing on my mind (what if it went etc etc etc), so I bought another one using my staff discount at the parts place that the work owns. Figuring out how to change this was rather confusing for such a simple part. A chain of PMs between @Breezy_Pete and I eventually cleared up the questions and fears I had about diving into this. Big thanks to him though. Now have a hose without red insulating tape on it. No longer fully matches the car, but ach well, safety and that. Part Two of Suffering: Stereo Replacement I blew up the old Sony stereo I had. That was daft. Didn't mean it though! Anyway, after accidentally making a blood brothers pact with the stereo cage that made it look like I'd got into a fight with a cheese grater, I had a car stereo with functional CD changer again! Wooooooo!! Now I can have Jesus Jones with the fantabulous autoreverse as well! Part Three of Suffering: Death Wobble The death wobble over 55mph was doing my head in, especially on longer trips as my hands would get really sore from clenching the wheel or the continuous vibration. To rectify this, wheel balancing was more than a must, it was a ****ing necessity. So that got done. I opted to check if the car needed tracking, and the garage checked, but honestly it's not bad enough, so that's fine. Part Four of Suffering: The Immediate Future At the time of writing, I have received a post-cat lambda sensor in the post and I'm trying to figure out where the hell the MAP sensor I ordered is, as I haven't got it. I'm seeing something variable between about 31mpg and 42mpg on longer trips, it's weird and costly. Got some trips coming up, so it's getting used quite a bit too. How exciting! Still got more to do, including procuring some front tyres as the tread is getting to where it's almost lower than I'm comfortable with. Part Five of Suffering: The Distant-but-not-too Distant Future I don't know the long-term for this car yet. I know that something will be incoming at some point this year, so that may mean the Fabia is gawn oot of the household, but there's a few things needs done with the incoming vehicle before I take it on (which the current owner is rectifying). It's non-Skoda, so sorry to disappoint. In an ideal world, the Fabia will be staying though. Even if only on limited use or something. Part Six of Suffering: Overall Conclusion Yes. Progress is finally happening. Got some more things to do still. 'Nuff said, eh?

This 2017 Škoda Octavia Mk III 1.0 TSi S is my 1st ever Skoda & I'm suitably impressed. Great boot space to put all of my band equipment!

A few from Coningsby earlier today

Depends what you are looking for but the 2.0 PD in the Mkii Octavia 4x4 was a development of the 1.9PD - one of the most reliable engines you can get. It's only 8 valve and has a DPF in the 4x4 and Scout but the DPF can be removed and it can easily be mapped to about 185bhp on a Stage 1 and more on a Stage 2. We had one for 14 years and it was pretty much bulletproof apart from needing a turbo to intercoooler hose every 7 years.