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No one else has suggested it, so I'll bite....Did you look into it?! 😝 In all seriousness, I hope it's an easy fix.

Marshall Skoda in Barnstaple charged me just shy of £600 for a cambelt change and intermediate service on a 1.4TSI in 2020. On the Octavia 3 the 1.4TSI is basically the same engine as the 1.5TSI but the 1.5 has the addition of ACT.

Hi Munch, welcome to the forum. Scout has AWD and increased ground clearance.

Good. Quite normal, especially if there is extra load for things like AC and electrical use. No. My Panda is 13 years old with 134K miles and still on original clutch with no sign of wear. I have had this from new. I know of one car that had a clutch every year ( for three years in a row that was doing less than 10K per Year ) due to poor driving skills / no mechanical sympathy. Incorrect. A higher pressure will reduce rolling resistance. This can increase tyre life and reduce MPG. On my Fabia I run 2.5 Bar all round and the first pair of Nexen's that were only on the front were changed after 27K miles. Last two fuel tanks were 59.9 and 64.3 MPG, and I very occasionally ( in Winter ) almost get down to 50MPG. 😲 Enjoy your new car. Thanks, AG Falco

**Updated March 2025** The latest firmware version is: 0480 for SOP4.x hardware. 0363 for SOP3.x hardware. 0253 for SOP2.x hardware. **UPDATED May 2021** **Updated Feb 2024** Minimum size of SD card is now 32G **Please note everything on here - is generally warranty effecting - break it and you'll need to pay to get it fixed** Dear all, I thought I would pen down my experience in terms of upgrading my firmware on my 2019 Octavia Scout. I have cleared me writing this piece with the Briskoda Moderators. I have always berated Skoda for the fact that there are firmware updates available to fix various silly niggles on the Entertainment system. I have a Amunsden system (Bolero with Sav Nat). You have to play silly games with your dealer, just so they can look to see if any of your MIB system faults are displayed as a known issues....which is the measure that they use. The point is that unless your car system is seriously glitchy, dealers won't generally touch the MIB system. I am an IT guy, and this kind of thinking (especially with the more modern connected systems) depresses me....the world is told to patch,patch,patch - but VW group choose not to do so unless absolutely necessary. I now understand why....because the MIB2.5 system upgrade that I managed to get hold of for my Scout - took over an hour to upgrade. Time is money in dealers and this is why when dealers do a firmware update, then charge it as a warranty claim. On my system, there were many many patches for 0475. The version of firmware provided by a member on this forum was for 0478. (May21) There are also different version of firmware available. This is an important thing to note: There are generally (for Bolaro and Amunsden) - different software strands: They are: SOP2.x, SOP3.x and SOP4.x - when you look at a firmware version, you will be presented with a version such as 0472 - this says that it is a SOP Version 4.x . You can only update SOP4.x strands with another SOP4.x strand. Therefore, if you have 0472, you can upgrade to 0478. If you have a SOP3.x - e.g. 0359, then you cannot safely upgrade to SOP4.x 0478 firmware. There are people on here who say they can do it, but this is a risky area and you risk bricking your hardware. Now some legal stuff - because Briskoda cannot officially endorse anything that you do to your car (its a forum for Skoda enthusiasts, not dubiously obtained software) and the fact that the forum doesn't want to be sued by VW Group for posting non-authorised/obtained software, all the dealings for firmware has to done behind the scenes. Its sad that way. The firmware files are generally quite large (my copy was about 3GB). So once you have found the appropriate thread for your MIB system (it could be a Bolero, Amunsden or Columbus system), whether it is a MIB, MIB2 or MIB2.5 system, and you have found the appropriate member who has access to the firmware, you will be asked to take a photo screenshot of the system information. You can find that in System Information in the MIB system under Menu and Settings. This information shows the VW part number and the current firmware level. Do not confuse this with the maps/nav version information. If you are brave enough to do the firmware update, my other caveat is that you need to know your way around a PC. I'm a linux guy (which helps), but a good technical expertise level is useful. You will need: The link to the downloaded software An 32GB SD Card - DOS partition and formatted in FAT32 (Linux land it is called vfat) Download the firmware image - it will have a filename similar to: MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0478T.7z . Briefly, that equates to: MST2 = MIB2 or 2.5, EU_SK_ZR are all countries (its a Europe and Russia image) and P0478 is the firmware version. The file is given in this case in a 7zip format (highly compressed). I know there are Windows decompression tools available, but I use 7z command line - in this case "7z x MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0478T.7z". Make you do this in a new directory (otherwise it write files all over the place in your current directory). You should also file scan the files to make sure there are no virus's. After a while, you end up with a directory full of files. You can safely move the .7z master file elsewhere. There will be a new directory created with the same name as the firmware. Go into this directory and copy the content onto your SD Card. This process will take about 30 minutes all told. Eject the SD and go to your car..... Now connect up the battery charger to your battery and start the charging process. Remember, if the MIB system detects voltage levels below 12V (I think it is 11.8V), it will not allow you to upgrade (or its a bad idea anyhow). Think of it doing an Android upgrade with low battery voltage - not advised. Get into the passenger seat, and go into the glove compartment. Remove your current SD cards in SD1 (and SD2 if you have that slot). Switch on the MIB system and insert your SD card with the firmware on it - into SD1. It must be SD1 slot only. With the MIB system on, press and HOLD the Menu button until you get some hidden menus appear. Top option is labelled firmware/updates. Select it (either press screen or use the right hand knob and press your selection). Select Upgrade as the option you need. The system will go away and read the SD Card and see if there is a firmware update available. If all is working well, the system will reboot and put itself into Emergency Update mode (Scary Screen). You will now right here find if your files are corrupted or not. First attempt at my upgrade....it didn't go well, because I use 7z e as opposed to 7z x flag to extract the files. Once that snafu had been fixed (and I stopped panicking) , and I had the files in the right order in the right directories, all started working. I had over 100 updates - these were mainly CPU related and firmware for the bluetooth modules etc. They take time to process....be patient. After about 60 minutes, the upgrades finishes and the radio reboots - once to ask you whether you want to downgrade your system to the previous firmware level (press cancel here). The system then completes and switches itself off. Leave it for about 60 seconds. After 60 seconds, switch it back on...(in my case, the Scout Logo appears) and the system boot up. All seemed to work well, but I had some minor niggles to content with. 1) The GPS module went AWOL for about 10 minutes, then came back to life. 2) I could not get Skoda Connect to work. Skoda Connect was an interesting one - and I fixed it an interesting manner. I ended up doing a car factory reset. Skoda Connect still didn't work. A quick check with the Skoda Connect app showed I was logged out, so re-registered the car with my login. The app showed all was well and re-registered, but still no Skoda Connect. I left it to do its thing....(got bored). Today - I had another look at the problem....I realised that because I re-registered the car, that all the personalisation options had gone back to factory reset. I had to go into Menu-> Personalisation and re-associate the car with my profile....Skoda Connect then started working correctly. I hope this is helpful for somebody to understand the process.

...well after 2 years of looking and procrastinating our beloved 2015 1.4 L&k Yeti is gone. After much searching and many test drives we have now part exchanged for a pre-registered Kia Niro. In some ways not really a patch on the Yeti, but has some usefull features and I really wanted an auto box, (and a 7 year warranty helps ease the pain of transition!). Nothing I tried came close to the practicallity and "quality feel" of the Yeti which will be much missed, although concerns regarding the eventual possibility of a pan roof failure, and a few other problems that had started to become potentially costly concerns? The things I prefer on the Niro are the auto box, fuel economy, (first 50 mile journey from the dealer showed 65mpg on the computer), although the 1.4 returned 44mpg (actual) over the 4+ years we had it), and adaptive cruise control, 7 year warranty, no potential pan roof problems. The things in the Yeti's favour are practicality whike being relatively small, (seat removal), comfort, "quality", (feels very "soild" compared to more modern offerings), performance, loads of extras on the L&K although some not used, (auto parking....why????). If they still made them, (or something very similar) it would have been a no brainer to simply get another one, (auto). I even thought about trying to get one of the last 2017 SEL Drives, but they are now 5 years old and I didn't fancy spending that sort of money on a VAG car with no real warranty. I can say that to date, the Yeti has been the best car I have ever owned!! ...so goodbye to this forum and thanks to all for all the help over the last few years....and if you have a "good" Yeti, then I would strongly recommend keeping it as long as you can!!

From this to this Talk about downsizing! But yes I've actually done it. I loved the Kodiak, but life priorities have changed and since buying a motorhome and using that for our trips to Ireland and family etc my Kodiak was only used for a 44 round mile commute 3-4 days a week and costing me £375 a month in finance alone. The Fabia? £157 a month, just got an extra £218 a month in my pocket and very happy with the fabia too!

…. does anyone have a clue how this could’ve happened and, more importantly, other than shelling-out a million quid (or an equally real sum I have no doubt) for a complete visor, can the mirror glass actually be replaced??? It’s a bloody nuisance that’s for sure!

Lots of listings for ET45 17" wheels for Fabia 2 which is what I'd expect and one for ET48 which might be a mistake, If you want to be sure, pull off a wheel and the ET will be cast in the reverse of the centre boss or one of the spokes.

Maybe try one of those solar AA battery maintainer devices. Got one myself recently.

Can you explain what the danger is from these extreme G force loadings when braking with tyres that are inflated to the manufacturers specification?

This is unfortunately normal. In Poland there is standard 2 years warranty for Skoda and VW, but this can be extended to 4 years (in VW i think even to 5). Seat however has 5 years warranty as standard here since some time, before they had 4 years. Remember comparing this to other countries 8 years ago, when i got Leon, and in majority of European countries Seat was offering 2 years only. Stupid thing is, that you can only extend warranty when configuring the car. I got ex-demo, which came with 3 year warranty (only 60k km), and would like to extend it to 4 years, but it's impossible 😞

Run the higher pressure: A. It is much safer in emergency braking where G forces place extreme loads on the front tyres. I have been on two business sponsored safe driving courses that have drummed home this point. B. Better fuel consumption. C. Caters for unusual short duration loads like giving a couple of friends a lift. I have never experienced extra or uneven wear from the higher pressures. Uneven wear has only been due to misalignment but you don't need to pay for a four wheel alignment as the rear has un-adjustable torsion bar suspension. I also prefer the ride and handling with the higher pressure which is about 5 to 6 psi more than than 'normal'.

Thanks Breezy_Pete that's great.

Fingers crossed it doesn’t go to the parking lot as many others 🤞

Mine looks exactly the same. Only noticed after some opportunist took advantage of an unlocked car door overnight. every cubby door open. I assumed he grabbed the visor looking for cash or stuff. Will check the guide mentioned.

Yeah it will be fine ,might have a few lights on the dash but they will reset in a min or two .

If the tyres have a low ( normal ) pressure the edges will wear faster. On a Fabia this will be more pronounced on the inside edge of the fronts and the outside edge of the rears. ( So if the fronts are being replaced move the rears diagonally to the front and fit the new tyres to the rear. ) If the tyres have an Eco pressure they will not wear the edges faster and will last longer. The Nexen's I replaced at 27K miles were worn flat with no extra edge or centre wear. I have replaced another 4 tyres ( two pairs ) since then and all were worn flat with no extra edge or centre wear. If the tyres are over inflated ( above Eco pressure ) they can wear the centres faster but still last longer. I see a lot of cars / tyres and very rarely see tyres that are worn out in the centre first. At least 75% of cars / tyres I see have the edges worn first especially the inside edges of the fronts. I have run all my cars on a higher / eco pressure for over 20 Years, it works for me. Thanks, AG Falco

Just got my MY23 vRS and unfortunately there is no more cooled glovebox. Sorry for the bad news.

Any paint / quality control issue missed at the factory before the protective covers are applied can be missed as the car is signed for at arrival at a dealership. As it is unwrapped and prepped and given a PDI then any fault or issue should be identified. No customer should be finding faults to a prepped car. Sadly they do because of PDI,s done by Stevie Wonder INC.

I would get them made up with stainless fittings if you're going to go to all this trouble, it'll be cheaper and better than dealer parts.

Lol, I was going to mention the same earlier - "the mirror saw something it didn't like, and cracked itself!!!" 😆

Thanks all for the responses, it's much appreciated. It seems that prices have gone up and I will deffo have to shop around next year before I get it changed.

Completely normal, nothing to check except the contents of your wallet.

Probably just a typo, 7522 seems to be the one.

I was towing a caravan with a Yeti not far past Bristol on the M5 everything started to squeak and groan. It was extremely Hot. I came off the motorway and sprayed every suspension rubber I could reach with silicone lube and restarted my journey. Lovely and quiet except for the tow hitch which still squealed, arriving on site it was so loud I had to wet the friction pads with water. I had a similar problem with a car which had nylon steering bushes, these needed wetting ocassionally to stop the squeak and squeal.

Going to Bristol Thurs & returning yesterday mainly on Motorways, M25 & M4, 150 mile journey each way, fairly busy roads, I got 48mpg going & 52mpg on return, so average 50mpg. ACC typically set to 73mph where speed limits allow. 3yr old 1.0 SE Tech DSG that's done 18,500miles. My best on that trip was 53mpg a year or so ago. I don't dordle, but nor am I a speed merchant (but can get up to around 85mph passing a knot of bunched up vehicles in the slower lanes) yet mostly try to drive fairly economically. 95RON petrol. Temps in low to mid 20s. The mpg figures are from the vehicle's 4% optimistic display, adjusted down accordingly. The range shown on the display was indicating aroundt 600miles for this long distance run.

Here in Australia, where that story originated, it is true that longer and longer warranties are being offered. My 2021 Skoda had 5 with possibility to extend to 7. My 2015 VW had 3 but I was able to buy an extension to 8 for $2000. I can remember that in my first few decades of car ownership, i.e. the 70s, 80s and 90s, the norm was 1 year. I think the move to longer warranties came when Korean entrants such as Kia and Hyundai offered them, over 20 years ago, to overcome their lack of brand recognition. Over time this has led to virtually all companies doing the same to remain competitive, with the notable exception of luxury brands such as Porsche, which are still stuck at 3 years, Then there is the extreme of Mitsubishi who now offer 10 years: https://www.drive.com.au/news/mitsubishi-launches-10-year-warranty-but-there-s-a-catch/, https://www.mitsubishi-motors.com.au/owners/diamond-advantage/warranty.html

Octavia Scout?

The MAP cards are usually 16GB/32GB. They can be used across the whole VAG group, they have a special CID embedded in each that the unit checks and then allows maps to be loaded. I bet you will find many on the bay of E, and you will be golden.

There is a menu price on cambelt and it’s way cheaper than a 2lt diesel with water pump at £600 at Skoda. Call a few more dealers and ask with your registration.

Followed all the instructions, using both the individual door buttons and the master switch panel. Up, down, down, up. Ignition on, off, on. Nothing worked. Gave up, kicked back on my phone and relaxed in the driver seat for half an hour. On getting out, the windows worked perfectly! I felt I could hear the Skoda sni_ggering.

Last year I changed my car (1.4 TSI) cambelt for £500 at Bristol Heritage ŠKODA.

My vrs has arrived at the dealer yesterday, unfortunately no pictures sent. Picking up on Tuesday… can’t wait just shy of 11 months since ordering

As rootoot has put. You've got a different engine now so you need to get used to it and unless you're driving a different vehicle don't worry about the differences just get used to them. We've had 3-cylinder engine cars and not just used for pottering around town, with turbos and one with out, only the non-turbo was a 1 litre the others a lot less cubic capacities. By what I've seen on here they were probably more refined engines, and were in slightly lighter cars, but I'd not worry about a 3-cylinder engine just perhaps more careful to keep up with timely servicing, maintenance and repairs. I think you're wise to go for annual oil & filter changes and I'd go for good quality oil (but then I always do) but you'll get what the dealer/garage has regardless. Someone else here reckoned it was wasn't a good idea to let the car pull itself along on its computer settings with your foot off the accelerator as it could cause more wear to clutch/ flywheels - but I don't know. Inflating the tyres to their eco setting shouldn't give extra wear, it's not happened to the tyres on my wife's Fabia but does give a noticeable decrease in rolling resistance so presumably some effect to mpg and the emissions (muck/crud/crap/bits of 'rubber) that comes of the over large and wide too low profile tyres that fashion dictates are on modern cars. Some say all tyres should be inflated well over car manufacturers recommendations, I think you can experiment a bit with different tyres but not stray too far from what the vehicle manufacturer recommends.

I have upgraded multiple units from 0478 to 0480 and have NEVER had any issues @Fix666 check your PM for download link

..oops, you may well be right. I know you can take off the cover on the passenger, (Left, UK) side, and can see evidence of corrosion if there is any...(I was just about to go out and check but then I remembered I sold the car last week....dohhh...)

Like you I now set my cruise control at 65 mph on motorways and this gives excellent fuel consumption similar to quoted above. On my recent long trip up into Scotland I calculated my long journey would only take 7 minutes more than at 70mph - so what ! I also discovered further advantages. It is fast enough to comfortably overtake lorries and rather than bunching with everybody else set on 70mph as I used to do, those vehicles cleanly overtake. A much less stressful and more economic way of travel.

good news for me just got reg number and delivery date at dealers 22 july and should have it no later than 29 july depending how fast pdi etc can be done.

So guys, MySkoda app finally accepted my VIN. Wonder if that really means its finished? Been trying for a month, and now it happened!

It seems that my tale differs from the norm here. Ordered an SE Estate in March of this year with a couple of extras and the dealer rang last week to inform that it's been built and is waiting to be shipped. Was originally given an ETA of 30 weeks (November) when ordered. They've said it should be ready to pick up at some point this month! I was honestly preparing for next year at the earliest when reading these forums so it's quite the surprise. Here's hoping this is a sign of things picking up for others who have been waiting a while.

Most cars from the spreadsheet are from 2021Q3. Mine as well. Hard to say how accurate it is. There is only approx. 100 rows. And if the people update their lines with new data or not.

Just been informed car has been released and in transit from factory. Ordered in June 21 and built week 9 this year. Will have a couple of beers tonight to celebrate, been a long wait.

Just back a weeks holiday in the Peak District. Two long runs on the M6 south/north, car fully loaded plus roof box, tyre pressures adjusted. 2014, 2.0 tdi 140 CFFB 4x4 manual Estate Average MPG with a combination of cruise control or feathering pedal was 42 - 47MPG with some peaks of 54MPG. In 6 years of ownership typical MPG has been 42 pretty much constant. Always try to use VPower Diesel or BP Ultimate, however with the current fuel prices it is a thought to keep using the premium fuels 🥵 Its away for its MOT today....fingers crossed !

Here you go, few pictures included. Bear with me as the resolutions are wacky, the max upload size is killing it. Current status of the car: Remus exhaust fitted - huuuuge improvement of sound from stock Lowered it a bit more then firstly Got OZ ultraleggeras 20 inch wheels Installed centerlock kit cover on the Oz ultraleggeras Tinted the windows Everything is atested besides the exhaust - Croatians controls got really strict in the last few years and its much better to just make the car legal then avoid police. Next week: Installing a big brake kit going to 390mm. Atesting the exhaust.

I fitted the (version 1) 034 Motorsport Billet Aluminium MQB Dogbone Mount Insert from awesomegti.com back in March 2018. I obviously checked out the 034 site at the time and there was no mention of an upper Dogbone Mount Insert being needed. My 1.4L is unmodified, I am a low mileage user and I never push it. The billet eliminated practically all judder and I noticed no additional vibration or noise. There has been no return of tramping, the billet is not twisted and the mount is as good as the day I fitted the insert. I assume the problems experienced by others are related to greater power delivery, but there is little real information out there. gregsko

Evening! I've had both the 034 Motorsport billet alu and APR stainless steel fitted to mine for the past 2.5 years; the 034 first, and the APR one earlier this year due to 034's admittance that additional strengthening was needed to avoid warping - which, once removed, had not occurred on mine. In terms of noise, vibration, harshness (NVH) there is a noticeable difference in all those areas, but personally it's not that much. It's obviously difficult to describe on here, but I feel it mainly in vibrations through the floor. Everyone has their own tolerances around NVH and is totally subjective. For me, it meets my tolerance level but then again I have stiffer springs and an aftermarket exhaust - so it only adds minor NVH to what was already a noiser (AKA "more purposeful...") car. I fitted it because I wanted reduced (if not eliminated!) wheel-hop, better manual gear changes, and peace-of-mind knowing I had some better components fitted to make the car 'feel' sportier, since it's Stage '1.5' remapped (additional components on Stage 1 map). Gears are easier to select and the manual throw is much less vague - not that it's a bad 'box to begin with, but you definitely get a lot more consistency with the 'felt' changes. It really optimises the car for me, and makes it even more enjoyable, so for that reason I can stand the NVH. Based on your initial post, if you want a 'smooth drive', it's perhaps not the best choice for you as it never really 'beds in' - you just get more used to it. In real terms: Noise - it took about 1 week for me to get used to it on daily drives, but doesn't add a great deal (especially not to mine). It's just more noticeable at lower revs. Vibration - You'll feel it in low rev maneuvers a lot more; reversing particularly. This does add to the 'harshness' factor, but the fix is to rev more OR just get on with it... It feels a bit like a 90s diesel Volvo occasionally, especially on cold start up. So if you do a lot of stop-start / commuting, it's probably not a great idea if you want a quiet, comfy drive. Harshness - The only thing I can add here is when you release the clutch without accelerator for a slow take-off / maneuvers, you'll feel more vibration. But it doesn't affect the drive much IMHO. If anything, the 'pros' that I added above re: accuracy of gear changes and the 'tightening' up of the whole car under revs is hugely addictive. I personally love it, but I am aware that I've optimised mine for performance where it counts, rather than make it the comfiest it can be. Swings and roundabouts 😃 My recommendation would be to really consider what you want to achieve by adding it, and whether it'll bug you having the vibrations. Good thing is it's not an expensive part to buy or fit, and - so long as you replace the bolt each time - its's easy to refit the old one if you test the APR one for a few weeks / months. EDIT: If you do go for it, be sure to identify the right part as there are 2 different shapes available depending on your individual car.

Am about 11 weeks into my supposed 44 week wait now. Got another update from the dealer this week just to tell me that I’ve not been assigned a build week yet