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Because you car is resting on the poor pin? Pull up handbrake before you release brakes, put in park. Then test if you can go from P to R easily.

Now with my new sparkly wind deflectors on I could open my windows a bit and dry my pants whilst driving who says it's just bling 😎

The only 'mechanical' part of the gearbox that is directly linked to the selector lever is the park detent and pin. Im guessing youre putting the car in park, taking your foot of the brake, letting it roll slightly then putting the handbrake on.

*update* I replaced the rear tyres and the rumbling is gone, they were on the edge age wise, had some splitting and even an imbedded nail! I’m a little ashamed that I hadn’t thought to replace them earlier 😞 the car is nice and quiet now and I recommend Michelin Pilot sport 4 👍 Thanks for all the help peeps 🙌

at long last getting my car wednesday 27/07/2022. will not believe it until i have keys in my hands.just hoping the car has no bugs like a lot of guys/girls have had in the past.it will make my wait 21 may 2021 to 27 july 2022 14 months and one week.i know we all say never get another skoda but we all have short memories.good luck to you all and hope the people who have waited longer or around the same time as me get there cars soon.

But it's not nowhere near, is it? You do have to be near it... Couple of use cases for me: first is car key in hand, together with shopping bags - can have the boot open just as I get to the car, which is very helpful; second is when I send the kids out to the drive to put empty shopping bags back into the boot - I can open the boot without giving them the key, and all they have to do is press the button on the boot to close it and I know it'll be locked. Score one for laziness, but also for convenience.

I had this on my B8 Passat after some warranty work. When I took it back they said it was impossible for them to have caused it, but took it for a drive and admitted it sounded exactly as described. After a day in the workshop it was diagnosed as a socket set piece that had been left in the exterior plastic windscreen scuttle 😂 Take a look there

Thanks guys I'll amend the hill park procedure !

I meant poor, as in the poor thing must be in pain. 😁 Yes, of course it's a Pawl

ouch what fantastic new sounds do you have I took mine for a spin this morning and could not hear any increased noise from the deflectors although I do seem to have now developed a slight exhaust clunk when going over drain covers etc 😐

I’ve had an informal conversation that Kia stated publicly all EV6 in uk have winter mode and the battery heater. Still waiting for a formal confirmation and also about the preheating update, but as long as the car has a battery heater the rates from cold would likely average high enough to be 10-80 in 30-40 minutes. That would be something you could live with.

50L in, gauge says E. It did say 9 for a while and was counting down as I drove which was a concern. No leaks just dodgy gauge so I might be looking for one if I can’t fix it. Will pull it out and investigate. When it had sat level for a while it read 38l which went down to 20 when driving and settled about 34. Some longer bolts and washers got the filler neck sitting right.

Maybe I had a following wind then but my little furbi achieved 110 on a private stretch of course as I would never dream of doing that on a motorway ahemmmmmm. Might do more now with the new wind deflectors lol 😆

Slave cylinder be it concentric or external would be on the passenger side of a UK RHD vehicle. Drivers side indicates the master cylinder, my money is on the pipe joint underneath given that the clutch system was worked on in the last year, the O ring seal needs to be pressed onto the pipe with a positive click and then the pipe pushed into the cylinder and the retaining clip pushed home. Common sense and habitude tells you to put the O ring into the cylinder bore then introduce the pipe, this will cause either an instant or delayed leak. No need to ask how I know. There is no pedal return spring but a control loading spring and cam which will push the pedal either up from just above the mid point or down from just below the midpoint, this produces the weird pedal falling to the floor symptom when a concentric cylinder draws in air from the joint in the plastic parts but does not leak fluid. All of the above is for the OP or anyone else reading as Ken has blocked my posts.

All sorted, found a local garage who took 10min, a diff diagnostic tool than VCDS,sorry didn't get the name of it, anyway he's managed to switch my Right fog light on, so all sorted, thanks to everyone who offered some advice, much appreciated

I wanted to give people hope, after nearly a year of waiting (order placed July 31st, 2021) I collected my Octavia VRS today. The car is worth the wait IMO, a lot more refined than the MK3.5 I traded in. Hang in there everyone.

Double post (didn't find edit) Thanks for your help and the instruction provided. Update was fast and without issue. I will check if I still have issue with smartlink (bug was random so it's hard to tell if resolved or not). Again, thanks for your fast and reliable answer !

i thought the "agri spec" look had been and gone already? it was very mid recession over here, among the few boy racers that couldnt get to Oz, or afford to run petrols any more. "ratted" (just ****boxes in reality) mk4 golf tdis and 307s with turned up exhaust tips covering the back of the car in black gack...... fk me it was ridiculous.

Bloody amateurs. Those definitely can be smart repaired, so find a reputable wheel doc with good reviews and send the pics across to them.

Yes, they did both an electric and a gas heated version which was cheaper to run and quicker at drying yer pants...

Coolant will set it's own level. There is a MAX & MIN mark on bottles and not a FILL TO THIS LEVEL mark. Some will stay at MAX when at a service they are topped back to that, others will drop and should then stay pretty much where that is and where you mark with a marker. Mark where it is now as you have had hot days and up to temp running. If it drops again you need to find out why.

Thanks for all the info everyone! Cazoo gave me the locking wheel but in a separate container, so it seems I’m all sorted 😁 can’t believe I didn’t notice the Velcro things attached to the side of the boot lol

Personally I wouldnt go anywhere near brembo aftermarket friction materials. They are not the same as Brembo calipers and hydraulics. The pads and discs are shocking quality... Ill give you a little inside tip - When we used to use eurocarparts they had massive incentives to make garages buy Brembo, such as biggest discount, rewards and such... Even with all that I wouldnt fit them on my own car. OE or Pagid are my go to for standard cars.

Yeah that doesn't feel natural to me neither.

^^^ 'Pawl' maybe not 'poor'

I know he does, after all this time are you seriously telling me you think I'm being serious and you need to white Knight for him?

This is only slightly away from the original subject. The new springs arrived with the postie this morn. The first one (OSR) took about 45 minutes to swap, but a fair portion of that was finding tools: 2x18mm sockets, 10mm ratchet, 10mm open end, a drift, rubber mallet, trolley jack, motorcycle lift, various pry bars and similar stuff. Just jack up the car, then put the motorcycle lift (or another jack) under the wishbone to take the strain and remove the pinch bolt where the wishbone meets the hub (2x18mm sockets). The NSR only took 20 minutes, remember to unhitch this little chap (ride height sensor for the lights) with two 10mm spanners, otherwise you will end up buying another one after you lower the springs. All in all an easy job for a Saturday morn. The MoT garage had quoted about £320 for the job, although to be fair that did include checking and adjusting the wheel alignment which will still have to be done at the re-test on Tuesday. Allowing £40 for the tracking, the springs were £42 delivered so just over an hour’s work has saved me about £230. Well worth it I think. Alan

thought that might be the route i would have to take thank you for your response

I ordered my VRS TDI 4wd estate in may 21, so we're up to 14 months so far, and still no info whatsoever regarding a build date. Just found another dealer last week that has 2 correctly specced cars that have been cancelled by the original buyers though, these are confirmed for production in august, so fingers crossed I'll get one of those when they arrive instead. They were apparently originally ordered in feb 21.

The three mis-matched tyres are making me uncomfortable 🥴

His death reminded me that I had this from my youth. How many recent rally winners have a commemorative model car made of their exploits although this model is from the 1967 win of Rauno Aaltonen and Henry Liddon not Paddy's 1964 win. Rest in peace Paddy.

This👍

So, another update on the car. I got the PS5s fitted to the wheels a couple of weeks ago. They are a cracking tyre and I can't fault them yet as they seem to hook up even better than the PS4s I had on before. I was so giddy about the grip levels that I took the car out and was driving in a spirited manner. The MAF must have been on its way out as the WOT and heat we've had ended up in the EML and traction control light coming on. A quick scan showed a P0102 code. I took the MAf off and looked at the part numbers to try and get a replacement from Skoda. The local VAG parts department is really helpful and they apologised that the cost would be close to £200 inc vat and they also needed the MAF off the car in exchange. Their computer said that they no longer make the unit and it's an exchange for some reason. It looks like the unit on the car was already an exchange part so Skoda said I couldn't exchange a non-original MAF anyway. Suits me really as £200 is a bit steep. Anyway, I confirmed the part number and set about finding one from somewhere else. I ended up cross referencing the numbers and found that the Bosch 0 280 218 340 unit should work. I managed to find it for £74 on ebay and so far, so good. I've done a few miles in both urban and out of town driving and the car has yet to throw up any codes. Fingers crossed it stays that way as the MOT is due in a few weeks so I really don't want a dashboard full of lights causing and instant fail. On another note, I'm still faffing around with the rear wheel spacing. The offset on the OZ wheels is very high I reckon - I bought them without knowing the exact figure. I ran them on the 15mm spacers with the new tyres for a bit and all seemed well until I gave a couple of people a lift and the tyres rubbed ever so slightly. We're not talking a huge amount but I don't want any rubbing at all so I've taken them off for now & as you can see, the wheels sit way too far into the arch & look a bit crap. The spigot is the issue so I may have a solution for it that I'm going to try when the car's in for the MOT. If it works I'll post up here with the results.

A gentleman and a legend who inspired so many of us to own a Mini (a real one, not this BMW monstrosity). RIP Paddy

If you're doing a general look for rust, it's worth having a look at the inner arch lips (especially if the foam blocks are still behind the arch liners), and the backs of the inner sills. My 06 has just started to get a little surface rust on the inner sills. Not bad for 16 years / 200k.

Cheers mate! It was a costly mistake buying those Ronals and selling then on for a loss, but seeing the car on the Speedlines now it's all worth it!

It’s in! Haven't put fuel in yet. Filler neck isn't sitting right, must have moved during welding. Will do some adjusting.

Like you I've spent heaps on cars over the years. TBH it's more the hassle of a couple of 5 hour drives, but that's what you get for living in the sticks. C'est la vie, is the correct term I think. Just for the craic, I'll post my dealer experience.

I’m quite pleased. The motor car has a pretty easy life though - it has only done 75,000 miles in a little under 9 years, I’ve owned it from new and have been the only driver. The new springs will be here in the morn, so I should have them swapped out tomorrow and booked in for the MoT re-test on Monday. I’ll get the wheel alignment checked and adjusted at the same time. Alan

I thought the lamp holder unit was plastic? Looks more like a capillary water trap combined with the naturally thin electrostatic zinc primer coat on panel edges to me. Even if the housing was a dissimilar metal the fixings go through rubber insulating grommets so I am giving a myth busted for galvanic corrosion in this instance.

30s search: I'd try that to start

Hi, Runner here, like to partake in local parkrun's and ex-run leader and member of a local running club in Warrington. Looking forward to joining in the running chats. 👍 Next race: Tolkien Trail race on Saturday. Cheers, Stephen.

If there was one post on Briskoda that makes me feel old, it’s this one. 🙈

@Jorgeminator i looked at your pics, and seeing a house i thought "he must be from Finland". And after that i noticed license plates

This is more a marketing ploy than actual benefit. Reason is that the C rating for battery cell is more important for long term battery health. The 800v cars have similar size battery to 400v cars. So the C rating for the cells will be similar. Only benefit for 800v is being able to pull and push more power through the pack as a whole when batteries are much bigger to be able to take that kind of punishment (or the promised solid state type in the distant future) So for charging network, 800v and backwards compatible to 400v makes total sense. If you want to average 100 kw charging, you'd be looking at arriving at low state of charge (10%-20%). How reliable are your planned stop locations? Does it have enough chargers for broken charger to not be a problem?

The issue I have is that in winter 6 hours of driving might not become 6 to 7, but more like 8+. That would be a killer. Also @lol-lol the Kia battery is 800V, so 200kW is not actually any worse than a much lower speed on a 400v architecture. TBH it’s not the 200 I need, but I need to know it can average around 100 even in winter.

next day delivery

You can get some impressive MPG figures out of the 1.2TSI even when you aren't trying to. Quite regularly get high 40s with driving around town and some nationals and well into the 50s on a motorway run. Just have to drive it right and not with a lead foot. What tyres, pressures and fuel are you guys running? I'm currently on 215/45/16 Dunlop SP sport maxx and Avon ZV7 mix front to rear at 34PSI. I've been using Vpower almost exclusively now as it always seems happier running on it so continued to use it. Which I guess now has the added benefit of still being an E5 fuel.

Dont think you can beat a lambswool mitt personally 👍