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Just picked up 571. Quite rare being on an 08 plate. One owner from new and a little over 70k on the clock.

For some months I've had an irritating rattle from "somewhere towards the back". At first I thought it was a seat belt buckle not properly seated in its recess, then something moving around under the false floor, something in one of the boxes under the false floor. And on it went, intermittent, not very loud just annoying. I dedided to stop worrying abut it - the cars 9 years old (and no, I don't know what I'm going to do when I really can't keep it any more - I've never had the same car this long, that's how good it's been). Then recently I had the parcel shelf out and when I put it back one of the pegs in the tailgate that the cords attach to was loose - a full turn and a bit. Tightened it up and not heard the rattle since. Of course with noises like this it's early days but if nothing else finding it avoids one day opening the tailgate to find the post missing.

The closest thing you'll see is... 5.2.3. Tyres You only need to inspect the tyres fitted to the road wheels at the time of the inspection. If you notice a defect on a spare tyre, you should advise the vehicle presenter. Taking the spare out "just in case" is a total waste of time and effort.

None so far, watch out for someone whose first post is in this thread and says something along the lines of " Have any of you doubters actually tried it? I have and it really works!" That'll be a franchise owner...😁

69 pence a kWh now. Max, 69 pence X 60 kWh = £41.40 so say that gets to 75 pence in October to charge at 100 kW plus charger. (Claim back 20% VAT maybe on public charging.) 60 kWh to fill the battery. @ 75 pence a kWh is £45. **** 60 kWh in the battery and you get 3.5 miles a kWh so you go 210 miles. **** Cold weather etc etc. 4 miles per kWh x 60 kWh = 240 miles. 4.5 miles per kWh x 60 kWh = 270 miles. £8.50 a Gallon @ you get 50 mpg so 4.2 gallons. 210 miles **** £35.70 40 mpg & £8.50 a gallon for 210 miles £44.62 ............. Home tariff gets to 40 pence a kWh later this year, 60 kWh = £24 to charge the car. If you get Off Peak tariff and that goes to 10 pence a kWh then £6 only.

So I keep popping onto skoda, keep running the config... Then keep hitting the money bit... skoda finance is 2x volvos rate and a good bit more than ford... windscreen price, good value, total cost, 5k more evens things up a bit... Renault still holding on the 0%, doubt it will hold to the release of the meganne. Incidentally that xc40 recharge 400ps thing is bonkers, so comfortable, not actually driven it yet, dare not. So little range too, tiny boot too However one interesting post from a review on that particular model. If you drive it, and use it, then charge on ionity(?) big fat rapids on m-ways, it works out at an equivalent of 21mpg in petrol cars, before the price hikes of the last 6 months. I don't know the maths behind that, even my man maths find it hard to believe. So the key to this electric savings is the home charge, that makes sense. I can fit the xc40 on the drive as is, enyaq, no chance. SWMBO front garden is at risk! I've read so many posts and reviews suggesting the iv60 is fine for uk use. It totally is for my weekly, local needs. My weekend blat needs... 200+miles each way... little less convinced. Although I do look forward to the cat naps while charging. The few on forecourts now... dropping in price weekly, down 2k in 3 weeks some of them. Although they are the 50kwh capped recharge ones. Still compared to saved 80x sportline at release all way over priced, same model now is 10k more in a year and it's a year till you get it. I'm really, really tempted. But I have a perfectly good 3.5yr old 272ps superb sat outside, it's paid for and owes me nothing, goes well, quite well ;). Has a chance of making 40mpg if taken mostly steady, albeit at £2 a litre for 98/99. I'm really struggling to pony up the extra spend/finance for cheaper running, I can't square it, any "savings" get chewed up in finance, even at 20k down. I was toying of putting it on the company while bik rates are low, but it's still spending money I don't actually need to, to save a few hundred a month on liquid fuel. SWMBO keep reminding me I was only doing all this because it would be good for the planet; despite the while new car bad, I now feel like I'm being swept along by a hidden current... of my own dam making So, enyaq/worse case motorway recharging/near motorway/dual, whats the likely true running costs, i.e. away from home? I am missing something obvious on HP/pcp? (never done either before and I don't trust the snakeman pushing it) That said I don't trust buying one outright and hoping the tech curve/future value curves come out in my favour. A bit of me is saying this is now the worst time to 'switch'. IDK... paralysed by thinking about it, I miss my old impulsive self.

Good stuff @varooom. 🙂 Not sure how else to add this other than an attachment, but feel free to incorporate the contents explicitly if you know a good way. It covers all sorts, but crucially how to work with the 'numbers in rectangular boxes' which frequently fox newcomers to the CFDs (current flow diagrams). CFD explanations.pdf One more thing; for anyone wondering about the seemingly misplaced laughter (L0L) in some of varooom's examples, that's a code meaning Left Hand Drive. L0R is the equivalent for RHD. 😁

The whole "if it's fitted it must work" isn't true and probably never has been. A faulty spare tyre isn't any type of fail. There is a clause that says if the tester notices a problem with it they should inform the owner it's dodgy, but that's it.

Getting a bit blasé about long head biceps tendons now, who needs 'em? Finished the race and the next one in even more wind...

Terraclean and Carbon Clean are the biggest con ever. Plain and simple as that. They are both the same thing under different names and the 'science' behind them is very nondescript. Basically it generally involves pumping hydrogen and oxygen into your intake (often a mist of water) and its supposed to dislodge carbon and such from intakes and valves and also unclog dpf filters. Ill tell you first hand, when ive taken an inlet manifold or head off to decoke the head/manifold, I use things a lot stronger than water including brake cleaner, parts washer, pressure washer, fire (if its a cast manifold) and even then it hardly touches the stuff, a screwdriver and mechanical movement is required to actually remove carbon. Regarding cleaning out a DPF, well, to remove the soot from a DPF it needs to burnt off at temperatures well above 500 degrees and this is achieved through additional fuel injection at certain combustion phases and a lot of electrickery to get the dpf up to these high temps - So tell me how adding water/hydrogen is going to bring temperatures up this high when water generally is used to cool things down. Along side this they generally say it will clean out your injectors - This normally involves one of 2 things, either they throw a bottle of injector 'cleaner' in the tank or they take the pump feed line off and put their own mixture of fuel and additive in. Either way, if your injectors are that blocked they need a clean, you have bigger problems. Of course there are small variations to each setup that the con men use but it basically boils down to the same as putting fuel saving magnets on your fuel lines - waste of money and time. So now ive generalized, Lets be more specific - What is the actual problem youre having with your car that Terraclean recommend their services for? If youre worried about carbon build up on your manifold, runners and valves then there are 2 things id recommend; First thing is youre looking for a decoking service, not a carbon clean. Second, once youve found someone that does it, they may offer a boroscope check involving a tiny camera into the manifold to check the rear of the valves and the inlet runners - If they deem the carbon to be a problem they will physically remove the inlet manifold and carry out a walnut blast involving firing crushed walnut shells at the carbon to completely break it down. EDIT: Something else id like to add if youre going based on reviews - Youll notice tonnes of 5* reviews, A lot of them saying amazing friendly person, done an amazing job and the light went out on my car straight away, a lot of reviews are like this. Ill explain why, of course theyre a friendly person as theyre taking your cash for doing nothing and regarding the eml light going out, if you have a lean mixture/egr flow/dpf code excetera, and they clear these codes after carrying out their 'work' you have something called "obd readiness monitor" this is also reset when the codes are cleared and how this works is, it will monitor all the emissions systems on the engine and only once its completed its reset checks will it actually start to monitor and throw fault codes for anything it finds with its monitoring - Now the crux, for the system to carry out its checks on all these individual systems each system can take from between 5 miles and 60 miles when driven in the right conditions. So youre all happy your car is back and the light is out, 60 miles later when the system reactivates you get the light come back on and by that point youve already said youre happy with their service. I think im done with my rant now

The cars leave the Factory on Variable / Flexible, it is at the PDI it gets changed to Fixed, and they should ask not just do that. The Service Interval is at 9,400 miles / 372 days, 1 year 1 week, was from PDI, allowing for holidays. some are now just the 12 months. VW says 9,300 miles sometimes, not 10,000 miles. working on 15,000 km. 'Oil & Inspection Service.' The Oil Service showing and 'Inspection' due at a different times is a thing they just have had for years to confuse many, especially Dealership Service Desk staff that are there 5 1/2 days a week and yet seem clueless to it all.

Get the old multimeter out, disconnect the motor and check for shorts between all the wires. You may have a dead short and its causing the arcing. Also, looks like a capacitor (the white cylinder) this could be there to take up any arcing or voltage dips, check the capacitor hasnt blown as well.

What he said. I did this job with my Grampa. What we did first was park the car up facing the garage door (any brick wall will do) and then turned the lights on, marking a line where the beams are on the old lights. Replaced the lights. At this point the bumper got removed too in order to make the headlight fitting much easier, plus it allowed me to sort out the hideous panel gaps (which still aren't right, but closer). Fitted new lights, adjusted them to suit the beam pattern of the old ones and it's been fine since. No issues at the MOT either... Well no issues with the headlights at least. I don't know about you, but I was too OCD to replace the one headlight, so did both. Looks better too. EDIT: I've found this photograph from when I changed the headlights. The difference in lenses is quite something, especially when driving at night. You don't have to remove the bumper and sit it elsewhere, just wriggle it forward enough to have a workable space.

So I've been quiet for a while but I have been doing some work on the car so here's a catch up. After changing the one bush on the dog bone the engine didn't move as much but I still wasn't happy with it. I've now changed all the mounts and used all the powerflex bushes and it's much better than it was. I bought a genuine engine mount, a febi gearbox mount and all the new bolts The hardest part is getting the purple bush in and out of the dog bone. I used an old gen 2 mini wheel hub as an anvil to knock out the old one and some threaded bar with big washers to push the new one in. I did all of that a couple of weekends ago. This weekend I've been busy with the old laptop, I had an engine warning light come on last week I don't have vcds yet but this ancient code reader pointed me in the right direction. It hadn't occurred to me that it was quieter than normal on a cold start but the pump had stopped working. So I put my big boy pants on and flashed the ECU for the first time with a map that I'd deleted the sai from. All seems to be well so far... Something else I discovered which is obvious but I wasn't sure about until now is that my car came with some kind of stage 1 map on it. Up until now I'd done a few data logs, I just presumed I'd got something wrong as the boost was showing more than standard and the afr didn't seem right, it turns out I was logging it correctly though. I confirmed it looking at a standard map I downloaded to the one on the car and you can see the difference in load request and lambda request. As this post has reach the 50mb of pictures I'll make a new post showing what I've learnt about mapping later but as it stands Ive put my car onto a standard map with sai delete, I want to learn how to remap it myself and the best place to start is with a stock map. I've also got a blanking plate to remove the sai hardware but I haven't touched that yet

Because you car is resting on the poor pin? Pull up handbrake before you release brakes, put in park. Then test if you can go from P to R easily.

at long last getting my car wednesday 27/07/2022. will not believe it until i have keys in my hands.just hoping the car has no bugs like a lot of guys/girls have had in the past.it will make my wait 21 may 2021 to 27 july 2022 14 months and one week.i know we all say never get another skoda but we all have short memories.good luck to you all and hope the people who have waited longer or around the same time as me get there cars soon.

It is the same as the factory warranty for 3 years, I think it with the factory, rather than a warranty provider, but has to be selected before registration (can be added at any stage of ordering or delivery process, as long as car isn’t registered)

It is an extension to the full standard 3 year warranty with the same terms and conditions/small print etc with regards to servicing/parts used etc

They are along the two flat sides: If I remember correctly, you need to attack them from the inside of the connector and tease them out the way: Although I don't know what the access is like on a Superb...

I think the stars aligned for me a year ago when I got this Enyaq. My Octavia had increased in value by £1000 from 6 months previously, I compromised and got a car from stock, and it qualified for the the government grant. A year later and my Enyaq would be £10,000 more to buy and take a year to build. Its a crazy situation. Personally, as a petrol head, I find the bit of extra planning for a long journey quite enjoyable. The main issue is the mess of charging infrastructure, requiring numerous apps and/or rfid cards. Ive done 18000 miles in a year and have zero desire to return to fossil power.

. I don't doubt there's a grain of truth in there somewhere, but it all seems to get lost in a thick fog of incessant moaning about Skoda dealers, their workshop staff and in particular the people in reception in post after post. I'm not defending them - it's just that the constant carping is so tedious. And I don't know why you've taken umbrage at my particular use of the groaning smiley. Are you feeling hard done by? I haven't seen very many of the recipients of the groaning and confused smileys you've dished out yourself getting the hump and demanding an explanation. The Internet isn't real, you know. It's all made up. .

ah ball cox... hopefully it isnt too bad though 🤞

It looks like the problem is part number 038 103 493 P VAG Hose, cylinder head cover breather. Initially I'd give it a good clean and then check on a regular basis to confirm where the oil is misting from. You may also be able to smell the sour engine oil smell in the cabin. Parts diagram details HERE. BTW your forum details are showing as a 2006 mk2 Octavia, not a mk1. Is this correct?

I am by no means an expert, but an armchair mechanic who likes to spin the spanners myself. The low Voltages are a very common theme you are correct, now if you read your massive fault lot (so many!) you can see you have times when your engine is running, but you have 10.7V at Terminal 30. In some fault codes with engine running you have 14V at Terminal 30. This little beauty looks brilliant, only 7.503 Volts Address 05: Acc/Start Auth. (J518) Labels:| 5Q0-959-435.clb Part No SW: 3Q0 959 435 G HW: 3Q0 959 435 G Component: VWKESSYMQB 037 0906 Revision: 00037000 Serial number: 0449725122 Coding: 032C0C070F Shop #: WSC 33361 790 00141 ASAM Dataset: EV_KessyHellaMQBAB 004041 ROD: EV_KessyHellaMQBAB.rod VCID: 3E26364990FA78ABFD3-806A Rear lid opener control module: Subsystem 1 - Part No SW: 3AA 962 243 G HW: 3AA 962 243 G Component: GEB.F.Heckoef H16 0903 Serial number: 84519619 1 Fault Found: 65794 - Function Restricted due to Insufficient Voltage U1400 00 [008] - - [Function restriction due to temp low voltage] Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 6 Reset counter: 158 Mileage: 70430 km Date: 2021.05.07 Time: 16:14:38 Control Module Voltage: 7.503 V Vehicle speed: 0.0 km/h Engine RPM: 0.0 /min Status of vehicle locking: Vehicle unlocked Driver door: closed Front Passenger Door: Open If the car had this little amount of Voltage, what happened that day? Did you need to jumpstart the car? There are instances with the engine running, and you have as I mentioned only 10.7 Volts, odds are it took a bit of effort to start it. The next thing is the dates of the faults, some go back to 2021.05, so it would appear it's been having a bit of trouble for a while now. Given that low Voltage will put errors up in a lot of control modules, it might be worth resetting all the fault codes and see what comes up right away, and over the course of a few days/weeks as needed. It's probably a duff battery, or you have a parasitic drain sucking down power during the night... have you had the battery checked?

Maybe put the old capacitor back in? Just to make sure its not that causing the fault?

Thanks. Had checked them already to be sure. That’s a pic I took before replacing the motor as I’d otherwise have no hope of replacing in the correct order from memory. They are replaced now much neater than they originally were by the fitters.

Could be a bit of a slow burner and we've not washed it yet but here it is.. Took us 5 years to buy one, and we think this is a goodun in spite of having no goodies.

Might be worth checking the rear air vent outlets under the front seats

If you’re coming from a Peugeot 308 then the only way reliability can go is up Skoda is now owned by VW and in all ways it’s simply a VW or Audi with a different set of body panels and optional extras - what I mean to say is VW is a fairly reliable brand and the cars they make are of a high quality for their price tag. Also look at how many cabs use the superb, not just for its space and size but how reliable they are with the spaceship miles they all seem to be putting on them.

That’s why I specify aftermarket Most manufacturers you won’t ever see Brembo friction material on their cars from the factory, all seems to be TRW or other brands. You’ll have brembo calipers and such which are second to none, but the actual pads generally aren’t. It seems that all the brembo **** that eurocarparts sell is exactly that, ****. From personal experience i can tell you I’ve had many a car come back with brembo pads on it for either knocking on the pads or bad squeaking and it’s always blamed on carrier worn out or user didn’t bed them in properly, throw a different brand in there and there are 0 issues.

Hi. Not sure if there is a bulletin for this. Sydney City Skoda at Botany is the dealer. Good luck.

Ok 😕, thanks for your help 👍

Each one adds 5 bhp, mind.

Did both of mine several years ago and found it pretty easy. Had no problem at all with swapping the levelling motors to the new ones. You can't possibly cause any warning bleeps with replacing headlamps. Have you had the beam alignment done? I just marked where the beam was on my old ones & set the new ones to that and it's always passed the MOT and never been flashed by another driver.

1st photo: the original with ''scrap work'' by me which didn't last long. 2nd: the patent from the mechanic which ''married'' 2 grommets. Some others as example. Different provider from different country-year so different stamps, shapes etc.

Personally I wouldnt go anywhere near brembo aftermarket friction materials. They are not the same as Brembo calipers and hydraulics. The pads and discs are shocking quality... Ill give you a little inside tip - When we used to use eurocarparts they had massive incentives to make garages buy Brembo, such as biggest discount, rewards and such... Even with all that I wouldnt fit them on my own car. OE or Pagid are my go to for standard cars.

Ah man, You said it can be heard if you go left then go right and also forwards and backwards Does it sound like it travels longer going left/right or forwards/backwards? Is this a sudden new noise or new car to you?

*update* I replaced the rear tyres and the rumbling is gone, they were on the edge age wise, had some splitting and even an imbedded nail! I’m a little ashamed that I hadn’t thought to replace them earlier 😞 the car is nice and quiet now and I recommend Michelin Pilot sport 4 👍 Thanks for all the help peeps 🙌

Here is my 2019 Sportline 4x4. Best/worst colour choice and was dirty again 5 minutes after this pic was taken. Currently Stage 2+ ECU & Stage 3 TCU tuned by TVS. Sitting on Eibach Pro's, with 245/40/R19 rubber.

If there was one post on Briskoda that makes me feel old, it’s this one. 🙈

Not such a good garage if they are expecting to hear a click from the aircon pump, VAG have not used clutch drive aircon pumps for close to 2 decades. 2 ways to diagnose the system: 1- Connect an aircon manifold guage set and compare the high and low side pressures and to the chart corrected for ambient temperature, this is by far the best way to know exactly how it is performing. 2 - Use VCDS, it will only tell you the high side pressure and you are never sure if its ambient or guage pressure as the info is contradictory, most of the measuring block figures are fantasy and simply calculated figures not what is actually happening, on the positive side if the system is shut down due to a fault, (usually low pressure) it will give you a shut down code which will hopefully reveal what the issue is, the downside is that if say the compressor modulating valve is sticking it will show everything working hunky dory but no cold air from the evaporator, also of the shear plate has broken and the pump is not even turning it will show fantasy figures for compressor load and RPM. The guage set never lies but few people these days know how to use them since the advent of the (not) idiot proof machines made for idiots.

No.. It was number 11 ( bar was worn at the side on which handbrake cable connects : so on the left side of the car the right end of that bar was eaten a bit, and on the right side of the car left end was eaten ).. I discovered also that number 10 springs are missing (which have a role in self-adjusting system).. So, I'll have to disassemble the rear brakes again, and try to fit that spring in place..

If the waterpump o-ring (item 23 in diagram) was not renewed/replaced when the new water pump was fitted, I'd say it's almost certainly that one that's leaking.

Very much more likely to be one or other of these coolant pipe/hose joints: O-ring seal in left hand circle between thermostat housing and plastic coolant pipe, flexible hose connection to the right of middle, and another o-ring seal on the far end of the rigid pipe into the water pump. If the thermostat housing has never been off, I think my top suspect would be the middle one, the connection to a flexible hose, not too sure where that goes to. A USB inspection camera may get in there and tell you exactly where it's originating.

Croatia finally got new Police cars and they chosen Škoda agin. This are Ambition, 2.0 TDI - 150 HP, 7-DSG Option: factory tinted rear windows

The aircon in my 2019 Karoq Edition runs "cool" at best - yesterday it was 26 degrees in the UK and the cabin temperature was only just comfortable. Certainly not as cold an aircon as I would expect for a flagship car, it never has been.

I dun a neuw photie. The car had just driven 200 miles and not been washed, as the detailer recommended leaving it a few days first. If only I could have taken photos on the day he did the car It does look a bit better if you click on the image rather than just view it in the web page.

I learned how to become a Common Rail diesel Expert! MY12 Yeti SE 4WD Tdi is now healthy and smoke free. Fault finding was a journey of patience with some wrong turns and a few self inflicted mistakes. I'll contribute my rough notes in case anybody else has similar diesel engine problems: 1. Working on a 2l common rail diesel isn't easy. Removing parts can be difficult and expensive if things don't go to plan. Start by understanding the possible problems, causes, and plan to do checks and tests which avoid removing parts. 2. Smoke can be one of 3 kinds or a mixture: Black smoke = Excessive diesel or insufficient air, Blue smoke = Oil burn, white + blue smoke = oil + coolant water burn. 3. Smoke can have several causes. Severe black smoke (rolling coal) can be caused by faulty (open) fuel injector(s), low compression,loss of turbo boost pressure (insufficient air) or EGR problems may also affect air supply. 4. Oil burning blue smoke can come from bad piston rings, valve seals, excessive crank case pressure, bad turbo seals, faulty EGR operation, or blocked up and gunged EGR, pipes and inlet manifold. Also check the PCV. 5. Most of these possible causes are hard to prove, but doing the least invasive checks first will eliminate many possible causes. 6. Check 1: Run diagnostics and check there are no engine malfunction codes. If no, then smoke problems arise because the cause isn't measured and reported by diagnostics. Check 2: Check for Excessive crank case pressure/blowback on idle by removing the oil cap and feeling with your hand. I actually measured my crank case pressure. You cannot do it at the dipstick because the tube is below the sump oil level. I used a spare V.W oil cap, drilled a centre hole for some pvc tube and connected it to a Monument Gas water gauge - but you can just use a long tube formed as a 'U' and put in some dyed water. I measured a partial vacuum of 3-4 inches WG on idle (Good). Check 3: Do a compression test on each cylinder via the glowplug aperture (M10 x 1mm). N.B Most Chinese compression test tools are for petrol engines up to 300 psi and don't have the pressure or long reach adaptors required for diesels. I found a cheap 0-1000psi diesel comp. test set. Check 4: Test each fuel injector connector with a multimeter: All 0.5 ohm = solenoid type = Good. All >200k ohm= piezo=Good. Check 5: Injector leak off test. This requires plastic hoses connected to each fuel injector leak line. The amount of fuel leaking back is measured on idle for 30 seconds, then at about 2K rpm. There isn't an exact science, but the leak off volumes should be similar from each fuel injector and there should be some. The purpose of this simple test is to identify unusual fuel injector operation before trying to remove it. Warning: Bosch injectors code 03L/130/277J (0445 110 369 B004) are strange because the injector leak off connection is done with a nozzle and push fitting internal plastic retaining clip. Cheap Chinese test kits for Bosch injectors using external clips won't fit this type. They are also damn dangerous, because it's too easy for the plastic retainer to not engage and fill your engine bay with diesel!! Check 6: Dynamic injector pressure test: Risky but some do it wearing gloves and safety glasses: Reverse the injector link to the common rail and tape the injector into a clear plastic tonic water bottle. Remove injector plugs to other 3 injectors to stop firing and have a second person crank whilst looking at the spray pattern. These injector nozzles have 4 outlets. You can only see them on the tip with a magifier or microscope. Check 7: Eliminate the turbo as far as possible. Turbos passing oil causes blue smoke, particularly during acceleration. Remove a large clip on the turbo intercooler hose and check inside for any excessive oil pooling inside. The turbo is fed with high pressure oil which drains through gravity back to the sump. Check the turbo oil drain isn't blocked. The crank case back pressure (should be a vacuum!) is important because positive pressure prevents oil draining from the turbo and forces it past seals. Many good turbos are replaced when these are the real problems.It's more difficult to check turbo seal oil leaks on the exhaust side without removing the DPF and pipes - a horrendous job on the 4x4. Even if these tests as much as you can do all look o.k, that is confirmation to look elsewhere. 7. I didn't do an injector leak test first (I should have). My test conclusions led me to fuel injectors. A diesel specialist will test 4 injectors for £80. If MY12 Yeti had done over 120k instead of 75k, I wouldn't have bothered testing the injectors, just go to a German firm that will supply a set of 4 re-conditioned and re-calibrated with test certificates. Another option I didn't do was buy a used injector for about £70, take a chance it was good and use it as a swap to check the others. After testing I was told injector 2 was so bad it shouldn't go back. But removing injector 2 gave me so much grief I could have damaged it? I was still uncertain and went ahead to buy a used injector with the same part codes from a Passat. 8. Removing a fuel injector from this CR engine: Easy is gently lift up with a flat screwdriver blade using the ABS rocker housing as a fulcrum point. That didn't work for me. Next option is a slide hammer. There are some Ebay injector removal kits using a slide hammer. The first type require the large nut holding the solenoid to be removed in the car. Frought because the solenoid pin, spring and spacer washer can jump out. Safest is the removal tool (Laser) that attaches to the side of the injector body using its fuel inlet nipple. The most important thing is impact must be absolutely vertical on the mounted centre line of the injector. I made a removal tool that clamps to the side with the fuel inlet nipple. 9. When injectors are removed you can check if their stem O rings are still in situ. Mine were burned away. This O rings prevents oil from inside the rocker casing falling down and welling close to the hot injector nozzle, it isn't the primary seal. There's an important copper sealing washer underneath each nozzle, this often drops back into the hole as the injector is removed. Remove the ABS rocker cover because you can then see lower down and inspect the PCV diaphragm. 10. In my case, some injectors had significant black gunge around their nozzles and copper washers were scored. The worst had a part of the surface blown away! The consequence of this is compression leaks inside the valve cover adding dieselto oil blow back and being fed into the exhaust. Remember I said check the compression leak readings for each cylinder! I replaced the copper nozzle washers and even lapped them smooth. I checked the cylinder head nozzle surfaces and gently cleaned them up a little with a 15mm flat cutter. The Chinese seat cutter set was flawed. Their smallest 15mm cutter head fits on a 17mm mandril which I had to turn down to 15mm. 11. Diesel Fuel injectors: I assumed they were piezo, I found no local or online firm that would recondition them. I should have measured them first with a multimeter. Mine were about 0.5 ohms each. Therefore they are solenoid type. A piezo injector will measure very high resistance. Bosch are very clever at making it difficult to do any servicing. The nozzles are coded and you can find parts, but the hex head they put on the nozzle won't fit any wrench. You can remove the insulated solenoid head with a large spanner, but small parts and a spring can leap out and get lost!! 12. Fuel injectors are coded: Before removing any fuel injector you should note the unique serial number code (7 digits) and its corresponding cylinder. If you have previously scanned the car, check the serial numbers and their position tie up. If they don't, somebody has been messing with injectors, replaced them or mixed them up! The 7 digit Bosch injector code incorporate a calibration value of tested fuel volume which the ECU stores. Using vcds and their 'Security access code' popup you enter the injector serial number. When this is done the ECU is supposed to learn and adapt to the new calibration. In practice, I think this means your engine will run smoothly without much diesel knocking? If you didn't recode an injector, I'm sure the engine would still run. 13. On the home straight I replaced the ABS rocker cover which I destroyed to get access to a stuck injector, fitted 4 injectors with new Viton O rings and copper sealing washers, fitted all the diesel pipework and got ready to purge the fuel lines using diagnostics. That done and after some prolonged cranking with a fully charged battery, the engine ran with NO SMOKE. It runs a lot smoother than it did before and I haven't had to replace a turbo, pistons, valves or piston rings. CONCLUSION: Rolling coal black smoke was probably caused by poor injector nozzle sealing and a faulty injector.

Hi all - I’m all the way down in New Zealand. I picked up my first Skoda a few days ago. A Mk.III Octavia vRS. It’s been kept standard by the previous owner so it’s a bit of a blank canvas. I’ve got a few small plans like rear diffuser and maybe a change of front grill etc. and a few longer terms plans like lowering. This is the first car I’ve actually owned for about 15 years having had the luxury of company cars all that time. The last car I owned was a GSR Lancer turbo which was a heap of fun - 4 days into owning this vRS and so far it’s promising to be even better. Anyway, love seeing what y’all have done with your own cars, so any advice on the best places for aftermarket parts would be great.