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My car was planned for week 43. I have received info today, that it is already waiting for transport. Dealer says this usually takes two weeks, but it can also be less. I still can't believe I waited more than 15 months for a car. This is just in time. I heard many companies and individuals are cancelling orders, due to impending recession.

Swmbo was advised she needed one (perfectly good) wiper to be replaced at a cost of £40. She thanked them but declined as they hadn't the courtesy to wear a mask when trying to rob her!

I bought a Honda GX50 (I think) engine for a cement mixer I bought cheap without motive power. Its the tiny light high revving one that they use on backpack mounted strimmers. Made in the Honda factory in Thailand, inititally I thought it was an empty box as it was so light. I fitted it and was pleased to find that it was indeed the one intended for the machine, the pinion for the toothed drive belt fitted the shaft and the motor mounting holes lined up. I put some old stale fuel in it (all that I had) and very slowly pulled the starter for less than one revolution just to ensure that it had compression and to draw some fuel through, I did not expect it to fire up let alone settle to a smooth idle and sound like a sewing machine.

It’s easy to get in the habit of turning off start/ stop by pressing the button when starting the car, and if you do want it to work if held up at temporary traffic etc it’s just a matter of pushing the button as required.

My build date went ahead as planned 12/09/22 and my car arrived at my dealership a few days ago. I collect on Saturday I’ll update the spreadsheet once I’ve collected . She’s beautiful IMG_8992.MOV

Lovely, if a little chilly on the way to work this morning............

Own up, how many bits were leftover?

It also seems to be a complete lottery with the dealer service departments. My car went in for a whole week. When I picked it up I was told everything was fixed, but they could not provide any detail behind the work they did. They promised to contact me a few days later with that detail, but despite follow up from me they still have not provided it. In reality, nothing has been fixed. I'm not sure why Skoda are not directing dealers to upgrade everything on these Octavias to get them to a standard baseline of software component versions. To me it would make their lives easier going forward.

Guys, just to report back. The problem has been solved. The car has been sold 😁

Me too, takes ages to get the taste outta your mouth otherwise 😁

If your "roads are bumpy everywhere" then you should not be looking to lower the ride height, quite the opposite in fact.

Just an update, since ne battery fitted, all is good! No low batt alarms and everything working as it should! Once again not happy with dealers warranty, to be told "Battery was fine when we tested it at MOT" (WTF! how long has a battery been part of the MOT!) and not covered by guarantee! Ah well, was only £140! Thanks Tayna!

I’ve edited the quick one, but as the othered are pictures I can’t do it right now. I’ve left the report as review and hopefully someone will pick it up before I’m back at a desktop. 👍

Small update. I had the wheels redone in silver recently. The original centre caps were looking a bit tired so I ordered some fake M582 versions from China. Unlike the originals they aren't carbon fibre but they look okay from a couple of feet away. The wheels were done locally and were acid dipped, prepped, undercoated and then painted. If you're interested in the process, it's described here - https://trenhamsalloywheels.co.uk/our-process/ I'm really pleased with the results and would recommend Trenhams if anyone is local to the North Yorkshire coast. Please excuse the state of the car as I haven't washed it since the hosepipe ban came in at the end of August.

People often go by the easy to read 'dumbed down' table that shows 1year, 10k.... 2years, 20k.... ect... and at 40k/4years it shows DSG so people assume that. Depending on box some have lifetime oil, some have 40k with filter, others 80k no filter. None technically have a timed interval. When i say dumbed down - generally for the front of house sales rep without any knowledge on cars but lots of knowledge of selling and graphs

Not impolite, perhaps just a bit abrupt and lacking normal social interaction. However I think if you had filled out your location as "Norway", people would have realised that English is not your first language and also that the Norwegian culture is a bit different from the UK one. I have known a few Norwegians who, to the UK eye, can seem a bit abrupt at first. Nothing wrong with that, we are all different and yet all the same under the skin!

First brake fluid change at 3 years and then each 2. You can test brake fluid for H2o. Hardly over the top. Nobody knows if the car is parked at seaside, up a mountain or in a city. There servicing and maintenance is purely recommendations and about having people check cars. Ignore as and when you want. Or check things. Many leave to MOT,s to find faults and never service anything.

Just turned 30 too, registered 1st of October 1992. I'm really pleased to have got it especially considering it can still move under its own steam even after all this time lying up. You're right and I was completely wrong, took off the cover and it's got a rather old looking belt so it will need changing. Seemingly it's non interference atleast, and a very easy job to DIY. Anyhow, did a bit to it today, Firstly a pic of the "new" backbox I took it out and gave it it's first wash in ages, bit grimy but not bad at all With that done I took the plugs out for a look. I can't tell much from them other than they're old. Will get new ones. Gave the carb a few hits of carb cleaner, did clean off some Gunk but not all of it Dropped the fuel filter to change it New one looks slightly different but should work fine. Old filter seems to have caught some Rust from the tank. Seemingly no bung on the tank so draining the old fuel through the feed to the filter. Which will take a while. Easy access atleast, this sits high enough that I didn't need to lift the car at all to get at it. As a last thing I tried buffing half the bonnet to see how it would come up. Looks like it'll come up well.

This is my new to me 1992 Subaru Justy. It's a 1l Carbureted version and while most were 4wd, this one is front wheel drive. It is a one owner car with 37000 miles, bought new from my work in 1992. Has been sat in a barn since 2010, started up and drove back to my work. Very stale fuel in it but it runs and drives well considering. Interiors like new inside Engine bays dirty but original. Original Spare tyre even Did sit outside for about a week before I could get it home, happily seems pretty watertight. Up on the lift before I got it home, solid underneath and the mid section of the exhaust is brand new. The weather turned ****e so it went into the garage later. Not long after I took this pic, I took a quick trip to roscommon to pick up a powerflow (stainless) backbox for this, the backbox is actually solid but the tailpipe looks a bit crumbly. All I have done to it so far is put a new battery in it. Have Ordered/Got: -Fuel Filter -Oil and Filter -Air Filter -Backbox Definitely needs tyres as these are ancient Michelins, 145R12, no profile on them. Original fit michelins can still be got but they're 90 euro each plus fitting. Probably get something a bit less than that. So far as I can tell, everything works as it should. Even the original radio works. This won't take much to get it good for the road, If I'm less than a grand into it at the end, I'll be happy.

Recently purchased 2 Warning Triangles for my 2022 Octavia Hatchback from Screwfix as 2 are required in Spain. Perfect fit in the holder in the boot and only £6.99 each. Hilka Foldable Warning Triangle Meets EU requirements

Gorgeous big Merc, that is...

Stunning 👍

Excelled myself today, oil and filter change, 35 minutes start to finish inc resetting service interval counter, I prefer the drain plug removal method as opposed to sucking it out the dipstick tube

Didn't realise you'd made a thread for this. Brilliant work so far, DM.

It should do that already. I'm pretty sure u've setup ur Start-Stop Memory module incorrectly. They have 3 or so settings/modes, which dictate their "memory" function. Mine is setup so it retains the last state, no matter engine being turned on/off.

Not much done to this, done quite a lot of driving and I've had/have a few other projects to take care of too. Picked up these 2 things recently. Snap Seal and naviwax. Tested it out on this and got great results. Have had a bit of bad luck since, gust of wind knocked a roadsign down onto the bonnet. Left a decent dent but no paint work needed seemingly. Should be sorted next week hopefully. Lastly wired the DRLs to come on with the sidelights, finally. Very easy to do, used my own wiring with a relay, signal from the sidelights and a wire from the relay to one of the drls. For some reason once you get power to one, it sends power to both DRLs. Pic of what no lights looks like And just the DRLs on their own. These can still be switched on and off as skoda intended too. Helps light up the sides of the roads and all it cost me was the price of a relay. Should have done it years ago.

I'm so calm I'm horizontal because my rocker cover doesn't leak, I'm just unclear what your question is?

spring cups definitely smaller but to be fair they look ok once assembled

What they don't seem to realise is that they need to raise the software levels of several things at the same. I suspect they updated your OCU (device for communication) and didn't apply the firmware for the infotainment unit. Another journey needed for you once more @HighlandBoy

South west Scotland crap charging with CPS chargers. Often a single rapid out of order and just a couple of fast chargers that might or might no to work and if one is working they might be occupied by a BEV or PHEV for hours. Free is nice. No time limit is not, and unreliable free is hopeless. No commercial chargers any place near major routes in the SW Scotland just not on.

Ok, so first step been completed. Front side windows replaced. If anyone is interested, part numbers are: 5E3845022 (right side) 5E3845021 (left side) Nothing else needs replacement, seals are the same. In Poland i have paid 865 PLN per windows, so roughly 180€ in dealership. Tried to find used windows, but only found them in Sweden. It made no sense, as price (with shipping) was just 20€ lower, than new ones. Replacement is rather easy, once door card is removed. 1. Remove 2 plastic caps marked in green. 2. Lower your window, so that you can see holes/openings in the glass. 3. Use screwdriver or something similar to push plastic windows latches, that you can see through hole in the glass (sorry, haven taken pictures of this part). Push gently, but rather deep. At the same time try to move the glass up. Once it's release, you can remove it. 4. Release straps holding wiring (yellow marks). Do not cut them, as those are not regular straps you can replace with anything! 5. Take off plug marked in red. Disconnect all plugs. 6. Remove 2 torx screws in point marked in red. 7. Rotate green "screws" by 90 degrees counter-clockwise. Now you can remove whole window lift part, gaining access to inside of the door if you wish to use the mats there. If not, you can skip points from 4 to 7. Assemble everything in reverse order. That's it. One note - after this, you will need a diagnostic interface to clear airbag error. Round part with yellow plug is impact sensor. I have used the mats in the doors, on speaker frame and on the midrange driver mounting place on the door card. Mat is 3mm thick. Also used accoustic foam (self-adhesive) on the door cards. Now door and window feels much more sturdy. Sounds completely different when you knock on it/hit it. Also give very satisfying closing sound. Inside you can hear less noise from passing cars, but it's still present. I was surprised, that it has also reduced a bit tyre noise and suspension sounds. In general improvement is quite good, at least up to 100-120 kph. At 140 kph difference seems to be little bit lower, as tyre noise is dominating. I guess will need to also do wheel arches, and maybe part of the floor. Also one can still hear windo noise from the windscreen. Not replacing it yet Please remember, that i did all at once, so i cannot really say what would be the effect on replacing windows only, without dampening the doors. Dampening the doors has improved audio significantly. It still lacks lower bass, but at least now bass much better controlled, more punchy. Sounds much better in general. Now i have to do a rear door Edit: One more photo - inside of the door. Haven't used the mats on reinforcement, as i don't think it resonates that much, and didn't want to add more weight to the door. They are heavy already now

This is the engine compartment in my Karoq, Its a May 2022 facelift model.

Thanks for the info. That's very useful to understand the configuration. The reason for me asking is that I have just had the Catalytic Convertor changed as it was faulty. The cars performance is now much better. Two days on from leaving the garage the dreaded P0240 code (Catalyst System Efficiency below threshold (bank 1)) reappeared. Both the oxygen sensors have been replaced in the past year also. The car is going back into the garage next week for further investigation. To help me get to the bottom of this do you have any suggestions as to what to look at next.

To my knowledge, there is no EGR circuit, "EGR" is done by valve timing overlap.

You have 2 choices 1. You can ignore this "drastic" sounding fault as it will not affect the unit whatsoever (it's literally because it was not able to talk to factory during update) 2. Learn you way around ODIS-S to be able to bring up the measurement blocks and find the one labelled in the VCDS guide above, then with the value in there you can do the XOR calculation and input new value and save. In theory afterwards the fault should be able to clear. I cannot help with this side as you have a very old copy and none of the menu's match mine.

Wiper blades arent a 'service item' change them when they wear out. The spare wheel/puncture kit and such is not part of an MOT no matter what is in there as its not 'fitted' to the vehicle.

Judging by this page, I'd say it doesn't. Scroll down about 3/4 of the way and see that there are two diagrams titled 'exhaust gas recirculation' but only for diesel engines. LLLParts

Get urself a Start-Stop Memory module - does exactly wat ur after. A few of us have done it, including myself. Highly recommended. Much better option than permanently disabling the Start-Stop function entirely using OBDEleven or VCDS.

No fault codes at all. Adaption of new differentioal sensor on this model is not possible / required. Also when changing the sensor the piping between the filter and the sensor where blown clean with compressed air.

There were many millions of those engines made, most are in scrapyards now, try secondhand on ebay.

235's were cheaper than 225's when I bought them as 235's are a more common size.

Looking good Pete.

I like polishing old faded red paintwork, it always comes up so much better but faded from the original, it gives it a hue and a patina that cannot be replicated with new paintwork. That engine started after about 3 cranks and on 12 year old petrol and plugs!

Absolute cracking find and it looks like it'll come up well...

Hi all, I'm new to this lot as I have just purchased my first Fabia Vrs after downgrading from a 3.0 tdi audi a8 that I hardly used. I absolutely love the fabia and I have gone through 13 years of being a mechanic seeing these bombproof PD's run flawlessly for their entirety. I am now glad I own one and plan on keeping hold of it for a long time. (Once the straight through pipe has gone, it's not my cup of tea) I am just curious to know how rare the seats are that are in my little red rocket as they aren't stamped up with an SE number and have red piping, not blue. I have been told they were an extra from the factory but not sure what to believe. The pictures are from before i purchased it and the car has been cleaned inside. 🤢 I am also in the process of having the drivers bolster repaired as it really let's the car down. Any advice would be welcome 👍 Cheers

Have a read of this thread, as it mentions the leather seats and there are some photos from a brochure: Skoda Fabia vRS leather seat option - brochure or documents? - Skoda Fabia Mk I - BRISKODA

Very happy. Infotainment not as daunting as so thought. Lane assist not as intrusive as I’d read- pretty helpful most of the time. Only driven about 60miles but so far, so very good.

Had the suspension noise checked out on a very wet Friday, of course the noise had disappeared 😐 They checked everything underneath and suspect its front top mounts. I am planning a big suspension refresh at some point when money allows. From research I am thinking: Bilstein B4's Eibach Pro Springs Genuine VAG front topmounts Meyle HD droplinks @Ecomatthas recently confirmed B4's with Eibach springs are a great combo so it's what I am aiming for. As the weather started changing recently and the colder temps have come in the stop/start functionality hasn't been working. I suspected the battery was getting low but the car was starting fine and I had no warning lights. I came out from work one day to find it not starting and the battery dead. Luckily a colleague with a Toyota Aygo had jump leads and there was just enough juice to get it jumped to get it home 😂 Halfords charged me £147 for fitting and coding a new 5 year battery, this was discounted with a trade card. Unfortunately there didn't seem to be any options other than dealer at £270! So many on Facebook groups recommended not getting it coded but I wanted to make sure it was working correctly, assuming Halfords did it correctly 🤷‍♂️ Lastly, I bought some cheap foam sticky back insulation from eBay for a tenner for the boot. Not amazing but I think my poorly tuned ears can detect a slight improvement at motorway speeds. I started by cutting out a shape for the hardboard on the carpet and split at the seam it so I can open it as normal. Then put some around the edges up to the edge of the carpet that cover the wheel arches ensuring I leave a flap for the boot sticker.

Battery arrived, within 24 hours of order, swapped over, expected a few alarms post change as expected but short drive and lock to lock steering check sorted that (TPMS alert was a nail in rear o/s tyre, why do things happen all at once!), and since no further low battery alerts! Bought an OBDeleven as we have two Skodas and and Audi in the family, changed the battery in config so now just wait and see! Tayna supplied Varta battery £130 all in, expensive way to verify fault but substantailly cheaper than other or OE alternatives! Windows up on lock work immediately and after a few trips auto stop / start also, which appeared not to on the questionable Bosch battery, fingers crossed! Time will tell! Thanks for all FB and tips, appreciated.