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Attention ! Actual update time ! The Piper rear exhaust section arrived, kindly dumped in the black wheelie bin by whatever knuckle dragging courier that was sent with it, so first job was to hose off the various food debris and tinned Mackrel splatters off the package before I could get round to the unwrapping. Once unwrapped I fitted it. Then unfitted it to adjust the hangers, then fitted, then unfitted etc etc - repeat to early painful death, then it was finally fitted. For now. Taipipe is a slide on type fitting, with a very discreet clamp, and I went for the 5" x 3" option as I didnt want too big a drain pipe out the back. Good news is the Piper 2.5" system mates up to the Miltek 2.5" system just fine so anyone wanting to delete the Miltek rear silencer and go "straight through" can do so with the Piper hardware knowing now it mates up well. All of this of course is temporary as I still plan to get a custom rear silencer made up with my 3" brushed stainless downswept tail pipe, at least this will get the car moving and ready for an MOT.

Because after 3 years your Haldex pump filter will look like this regardless of mileage. The dealer will only change the Haldex oil, when in reality the pump needs removed and the mesh filter cleaned. Ask if they will do the job properly or find a local indi who will remove pump clean filter and change Haldex oil probably cheaper than dealer will charge for only changing oil.

well to be even more accurate there isn’t a LED in the mirror glass. There is an LED behind the mirror glass on a plastic backing plate that shines through the glass 😂😂😂

My intention is not to hit 😀.

Yes, called today and got info that it is already in Slovenia. So now things are moving very fast, because on Monday dealer said 2 weeks for transport.

You’re picking it up next week? Yay 🥳

You don't have at least rear sensors? I will share my experience with the cam in a week I hope, if it isn't missing. 🤣

Haven't done much to the car recently. It's needing work that I can't do, so it's going into the hands of my tame independent for repairs on Monday. Hopefully it'll stop clunking like the police riot squad on a criminal's door. The estimate for the work may depend on the fate of the car too. This may be interesting, or terrifying. As an aside, I finally found the missing suction cup from the Halfords blind thing that came from my work. It's now mounted ready for road trips and all that. Still unsure whether I want to have the rear windows tinted a touch. An issue for later, I think.

And how do you like your new ride, Audrey dear? 😊 I have to admit I love it, or her, I would drive for days if the tank would’t cost me nearly 80 eur… nice and smooth, fast when I need her to be, inside with DSG is 😍. Yep, I’m in love, already forgot about the waiting times 😉 Kessy is also a nice feature, no more looking for keys inside a woman’s bag 😊

IIRC the V5 specifically states that it is not proof of ownership.

I’ve been exploring this. VAG has built the superb to eliminate NVH and in doing so have eliminated all steering feel. FYI Extra caster increases dynamic camber gain in corners and makes the entire range of the steering stiffer because of angle change. Many of the below will increase NVH but IMO only enough to provide enough feedback. Here are my discoveries: 1. Superpro lower control arms. These give you an extra 1 degree of caster. Gives better feel. 2. Alternatively. Front Lower control arm rear bushings can give you 0.5-1 degree of caster and are much cheaper than whole LCAs. 3. Front tower strut brace can improve steering feel and feedback. 4. ECU steering parameter import from other MQB cars. This controls resistance and ratio/speed of the progressive electronic steering rack. You can import the parameters using ODIS or VCP from cars that use the same rack part number. My Superb has part 5Q0909144T, which is shared by some RS3 and other models. This would make a big change. I'm aiming to do the front strut brace and ECU steering parameter upgrades as I’m running 20 inch wheels and 35 profile tyres so I can’t afford any extra caster. Caster gain will push the front wheels forward in the wheel well. I’ve also replaced the front lCA bushings with stiffer stock caster bushings. This also made a noticeable improvement.

The S and SE look to get halogen headlights with LED DRL. SE L and upwards seem to get LED headlights 👍 Please read the previous comments again - it seems the low and high beam share the same adjustment screws so there is no separate adjustment for the high beam... There is certainly no mention of a separate high beam adjustment in the manuals I have.

You are right. Out of curiosity, I compared my order as of July 2021 (delivered beginning of this month, October 2022): 1.5 TSI, Ambition, with some minor extras. The price increase for my configuration is 3,500.00 EUR.

See roottoot's post on this thread for the cold start jerking: I have the same problem and have learned to wait 45 seconds after turning the engine on before pulling away. I also notice small engine hiccups as the engine goes into eco mode (switching to 2 cylinders). Watch the dash to see if this is happening when your hiccups occur. My brakes squeak at low speeds and I've come to accept that too. I don't experience the other things you mentioned (but others might). Mark

I would say that the "less than a year long wait" club is more exclusive 😂

Lovely this evening, once the rain had stopped............

Who are you livid at? You are making the mistake of not assuming that everything they tell you is a lie. Call their bluff and go and inspect the clutch parts which they wont even have removed (another lie) as if they had they would know for sure if the clutch hydraulics had failed, if they had even a modicum of competence they would know by listening to your description and through attempting to drive the vehicle that there is a hydraulic problem. What you have relayed is that they want you to pay £2K for a new clutch and when the problem remains to pay them to remove the gearbox again to fit a slave cylinder which they should replace as a matter of course while doing the clutch and which is the most likely suspect. You do not have a slipping clutch so any wear and overheating that they have dreamed up to justify an expensive repair is totally irrelevant. If they were competent and/or honest they would say we are reasonably sure it will be air being drawn into the concentric slave cylinder, it could be a faulty Sachs pressure plate but that affected earlier vehicles, in both cases we have to remove the transmission to replace the parts and it would be false economy to do so without replacing the clutch (regardless of its wear) dual mass flywheel and slave cylinder, I'm sorry sir but you are looking at a £2K bill. We could however try replacing the master cylinder first which will be a £250 job, it's your choice to gamble on that, if you do and we do subsequently have to replace the clutch then you will have the peace of mind of knowing that every single part has been replaced. I had to bite the bullet and replace the clutch, flywheel and slave cylinder, the OEM parts (Luk) cost €300 On inspecting the old clutch I found that it had been abused by the previous owner (it was a fleet car) there were heat marks and the pressure plate had dished meaning it was only pressing on the outside of the friction material, the clutch lining had worn to a tapered shape to match the distortion, as it was all replaced it was neither here nor there but I should point out that it had no bearing on my problem which was the exact same one as yours caused by air being drawn into the O ring joint between the 2 plastic mouldings of the slave cylinder, I was having to bleed the clutch every 5 miles at the end.

If it's '..just for the discount and admin..' then they surely don't need it? Gaz

Various manuals available to download here:

This is how I did it: 1. With my one hand, put my fingers in the button recess and pushed the assembly forward, making the gap at the back as wide as possible. 2. With my other hand, placed a thin plastic tool in the gap and levered the assembly up until the pictured tab catched against the frame. 3. With a second plastic tool, started prying the tab away from the frame while keeping upwards pressure. After a whole lot of prying, the tab released. Patience was required 😅

My husband missed 2 stacked tyres when he was reversing last weekend and the car came to an abrupt halt, I guess the assistance pushed the brake instead. I have to say he gets in all sort of strange situations with my car, won’t let him drive much 😉

You want to see, what you are about to hit? Just joking, I understand, that is why I added the cam to the order, cause I didn't add rear wiper.

Hard to tell, my initial build week was in May, but the car was actually built end of March I think and then parked outside until Sept. Not sure what they do now but I read that they are still banking uncompleted cars. I do hope that won’t be the case for you though 🤞

Managed to find a Phoenix Orange 1.5tsi Sportline with Winter+ and Amundsen+ packs, one month old and £4000 less than new retail price so whats the point of waiting months? Pick it up next week and say goodbye to my Black 1.5tsi SEL. No more spending ages trying to locate my car in the car park!

A question for those who already have their car: After a year and half waiting (I ordered the car April 2021) I finally got a factory confirmed production for week 42 (this week), but the week almost went through without any new info. When the dealer told me the „good news” of confirmation 3 weeks ago, he also said that we should see the VIN number by the beginning of the actual production and an engine number after the car was completed. The workdays are over, but still didn't get any news. Is it normal that I still don’t have any info at the end of the build week? Of course, I’m a way too impatient now, near the finish line, and after 18 months of this rollercoaster ride. I'm just hoping for a completed production without any missing parts...

Ask at the Dealership. You should be using the recommended oil for your country, and that appears to still be VW508 00 / 508 00, so 0w 20 FS IV. The alternative might be 0w 20 FS III which is VW504 00. But not the Oil recommended for your engine now.

Ref the OP, I had a similar issue with the "Front Assist" in my Audi s4. The car was about 3 weeks old (back in 2020) the road was clear in front and behind on both sides, I was driving at about 30 MPH. Suddenly and for literally no apparent reason, the brakes went full on, ABS engaged, red flashing on the dash and a loud shrill beep to boot. Scared the bejeezus out of me. A quick bit of internet research, seems this is an issue that plenty of Audi drivers had reported. I guess the system is broadly similar across all VAG products. It happened again, this time there was a cyclist in the road but I was nowhere near him. I assume the car decided I hadn't seen him 🙄 A quick visit to the dealer who "re-set the cameras" and it never happened again.

Is there anything checked on an MOT that isn't wear and tear? Not sure a warranty would cover any potential MOT failure on a 3yr old car. Depends on dealer or if you have a particular service plan but MOT costs £45 at all Skoda dealers near me. I joined the Halfords car club ( free ) so their £40 MOT is reduced to £30 after using the £10 voucher you receive when signing up. And then if you apply code VFONE-50MOT at checkout, you receive a further discount. My MOT cost £17.43 and was done by National tyres who're my nearest Halfords MOT centre. Current MOT rules? MOT is due 3yrs from first registration and thereafter, one year from the previous test date. The Brake fluid and Haldex aren't strickly 'needed', they're recommended. Same here, local dealer mentioned the a brake fluid change and air con service, both of which I declined. I had the brake fluid tested and it was well within tolerance. Getting rid of the car in March so it'll be up to the next owner what they want to do with it.

1 Castor will give more camber when turning but it will push the wheel forward in the arch. 2 Personally I'd stay away from urethane. On youtube if you look up track-hack he outlines the options for the gti. The rs3 front mount is solid rubber without the void, a direct swap, cheap and oe quality. You can also, I believe, use audi adjustable aluminium control arms. I have a pair but I might be buying another superb so I'll install them once I know what I'm doing. For that matter there's also the alloy crossmember but I don't think there's a performance gain except for a little weight loss. 3. I don't think the strut brace would do much. It basically runs along the firewall. You aren't going to stretch or compress the firewall. 4. The Australian sportline superb doesn't get the variable rack. The uk gets the sportline plus. So a faster rack is either a steering quickener or a retrofitted variable rack if possible in aus. I was quoted $2770 from a dealer for the rack component. I bought a passat part locally for $300 from a breaker. But I'll need parameters loaded to see if it works. Software alone will not quicken the Australian rack. The hot golf versions get variable rack. Anyway something to think about. And decent tyres and alignment is always a good start.

Then they can't charge more unless they actually do additional unquoted work, because you have a written contract that they will do the job for a fixed price. If you've paid the higher price, I suggest raising a Small Claims action.

I have now found something on the Pod Point website, confirming Tesco chargers will no longer be free after 1st November. https://pod-point.com/electric-car-news/price-update-tesco-faqs-22

Still the same screw's to adjust

I recently drove a FWD superb with one before and after and there was a noticeable difference. I didn’t expect it because of how rigid the front of MQB is but I stood corrected. May be because of the track width and wheelbase of the superb and the forces it places on the chassis through corners.

I would disagree that front roll bar will help sharpen handling. A rear one will though. Also to a lesser extent a digbone insert. Didn't affect my Passat loads but it tightened up the front of my Octavia a fair bit. Just made it less squirrelly in bumpy corners. That and B6 shocks made the biggest difference on that car.

It'll be interesting to know what the overheating 'damage' is in reality. Signs that it might've got hot at some point, and nothing else, or is it a molten lump in the bottom of the bell housing? As others have said, not being able to test the clutch hydraulics without replacing the clutch is tripe. Sounds like the money printing machine being fired up to me. Gaz

Looks like Tesco free charging is going. Charges to be levied at the start of November? (I've yet to find an official announcement from Tesco or PodPoint) https://twitter.com/modernheroestv/status/1583190747825983488?s=20&t=X9x9DcY1ZyJoxoILDETqTA

There was software mapping update for earlier 1.5s, has yours received this ? Don’t think it was done unless customer asked. There is a feature where engine idles faster when cold for few minutes until it reaches a certain temperature. (Ides about 1000 rpm instead of 800rpm) It is related to getting the emissions equipment hot enough to work. Maybe something else is happening in first 40-60 seconds if jerky. If you are getting a beeping at speed, do you have something enabled, eg winter tyres speed warning, or a max speed alert. Go into the infotainment, car, settings and scroll through the list checking settings of everything (possibly previous owner set up obscure choice that you have never looked at). Also check you don’t have speed warning set on cruise control stalk. The high pitched metallic sound might be an oil problem, when was oil last changed, and did they put correct oil grade in (some garages apparently just use a generic bulk lubricating oil) instead of specific grade specified for VW group petrol engines. Squeaking brakes might be corrosion if your car sat around unused for months. Do you know build date and first registration date. A quick check is to look at tyres, the 4 digit date code (2 digits are week number, 2 the year), usually will be about 2 months before car is built or about 4 months before car registered, if it lot more then it sat around somewhere and there is corrosion on brake callipers causing the squeak.

Have you checked your filler cap? I've filled up before in my old car and if the petrol cap wasn't twisted beyond the clicks, I'd get the light coming on and even a go slow mode. Refill and re tighten worked for me.

Hi and welcome, I've highlighted the part numbers you need but after a google and ebay search there aren't many options, maybe cheapest I found quickly was around £250. If I'm not mistaken, the second part number is for a monte as the splitter and side trims are gloss black so it would match the "black magic pearl effect" description but not sure why the one above says monte carlo instead. Eitherway, good luck

Genuine DSG fluid from Skoda/VW is around £20 a litre. You can get 5L of DSG oil to the same specification from other oil manufacturers for around £40 https://www.amazon.co.uk/febi-bilstein-39071-direct-gearbox/dp/B00FZGK4G4 Looking at the breakdown of the other items, I would say it has been serviced properly at a very reasonably priced garage.

As well as age and charge cycles I would say that the speed of those charges is very important ie if Rapid charging compared to slow charging . Rapid charging as the norm, compared to overnight slow charging, will reduce the capacity of the battery much faster. Batteries that are rapidly charged most the time can lose 10% of their capacity in say 40k Kms where as slow charging batteries could still have 95 % capacity after 100k kms. Zoe ZE40 has a real capacity of 44.1 kWh when new, or as high as 47 kw in the last of the ZE40s https://cleantechnica.com/2016/10/11/details-renault-zoe-ze-40-battery-packs/ Buffers can be quite large and used if charging past the 100% SOC shown and can go below 0% too with the Zoe. Still not a nice place to drive with and practically keeping between 10% and 90% is optimal but that gives a true range of about 200 miles in summer and 150 miles in winter here in the Midlands.

My warm congratulations! Finally. Will be happy to take over the crown of the longest waiter!

Omg omg, I’m almost as happy for you as I was for my car 😉 Finally 🥳🥳🥳🥳 Do keep us informed 👍

My car was planned for week 43. I have received info today, that it is already waiting for transport. Dealer says this usually takes two weeks, but it can also be less. I still can't believe I waited more than 15 months for a car. This is just in time. I heard many companies and individuals are cancelling orders, due to impending recession.

On the road... OK. Quite subtle pic... I admit it

If several keepers / drivers have not done that in 11 years / 80,000 miles then it is up to those driving now not to. Or maybe they have and then the engine was repaired. The thing about older cars is that we have years to learn about them. Newer cars need years on the roads before we know if there any good as older cars.

As @varooomsuggested, the Autoglym Super Resin polish is great stuff if your paintwork needs a little tlc to remove light swirl marks. I've tried a load of different products when trying to keep my car immaculate, and a lot of it is down to personal preference. Price/Ease of Use/Performance. Generally though, I'd say it's best to stick to one brand, as you can be sure the products will complement each other. Personally, after using the Super Resin Polish, I'd seal it with Autoglym Rapid Aqua Wax. It says you can use it wet or dry, but the stuff really does work best on a damp car. Assuming you're hand-washing, and not using a foam lance, this is the process I use:- 1) Rinse off any surface dirt/grit with jet washer or do as best you can with a hosepipe. Now is the time to get under the wheel arches with a jet of water to clean out that crud. 2) Wash car roof with car shampoo and soft mitt. Mitts are very much down to personal preference, but I like something like the Gtechniq, Meguiar's or Glart microfibre mitts, rather than the chennille-type wash mits, mainly as I find them less prone to holding on to dirt/bits when rinsing. That said, that holding on to dirt shows how good they are at cleaning the dirt off the car. It really is a personal preference thing. After each use of the mitt on the car, rinse the mitt in the clean water bucket before loading it up with soapy water again. Talking of buckets, aside from the rinse bucket, I prefer a smaller shampoo bucket to a large one as it means halfway through washing the car, I use a fresh load of shampoo and water. Again, it's a personal preference, find the way that works for you. 3) After shampooing the roof, rinse it off with hose or pressure washer. 4) After the roof, I work my way down the car, load, wash, rinse repeat. I try and keep the bits of the car I've already washed moist, so as I rinse the fresh shampoo off, I give the bits above another spray too. Remember to clean the sills, the guttering and all the hidden nooks and crannies that suddenly expose themselves when a door or boot is opened. I try and keep under my bonnet clean too, but that's just me being a bit OCD. A detailing brush is helpful for getting into awkward spots like door handles, window rubbers, etc. Don't forget to drop the windows a bit and clean the top bit of glass. 5) After all the bodywork is done, finally I do the wheels. I've tried a load of different brushes and mitts, as well as the spray on "Wonder Wheels" type stuff. The spray on wheel cleaner works really well, but is pricey IMO. At the moment, I use a fairly small microfibre cloth to clean my wheels. How appropriate that is for your wheels depends on your wheel design and whether you can get your hand in. (Now and then I go mad and take the wheels off to clean them with proper wheel cleaner.) 6) After your car is cleaned and rinsed, if you're not going to use any Aqua Wax or other product that requires the car to be wet for application, then dry the car. A microfibre drying towel flung over a panel and then dragged towards you works very well for coarse drying. After the drying towel shifts most of the water, then I buff to a complete dry shine with a soft microfibre fleecy cloth. If I've used a shampoo with wax, I might want to clean my glass separately to remove the wax from the shampoo, or drying the glass might be good enough depending on my mood and how knackered I am at that stage. Sometimes I use a finishing agent like Demon Shine after a wash, as it's quick and easy to use and gives decent (if not long-lasting) results. That's what I think of as my basic "proper" wash. You can throw in decontamination on top of that, which can be a chemical thing such as fallout remover (which I use), or claying (which is not something I've tried). The chemical fallout remover is harder to use in hot weather. Tar removal is also sometimes needed. Tyre dressing is a thing too, if I'm in the mood, as is treating the rubbers on my car with Gummi-pflege. Note: That is just what works for me. What I've described is how I like to keep my car clean and shiny, with a balance between the amount of time I'm willing to spend doing it, the amount of money I'm prepared to spend doing it, and the amount of elbow grease I'm willing to expend in the process. I don't claim it is what gives the ultimate result, but it does for me. Tips: While you're working out what products work best for you, buy smaller quantities of cleaning product as if it's not right for you, then you'll waste less money. If you're washing your car regularly and keeping on top of cleaning, you don't actually need the really expensive fancy products IMO, you can get decent results with most car shampoos. Using a foam-lance and snow-foam is pretty expensive, and works best on really dirty cars. If you're keeping on top of your cleaning, the two bucket system works fine, IMO. There are loads of really good detailing channels on YouTube. Personally, I'm a big fan of this guy. https://www.youtube.com/c/ForensicDetailingChannel/videos Finally, if you look out of the window and your car looks great, you're probably doing a good job.

For in the middle, there are many products of course. For beginner "kit" I would recommend 2x buckets, with grit guards and at least 1 soft cleaning mitt The basics of the two bucket method is one bucket with your shampoo wash solution, and one bucket with plain water for rinsing your wash mitt Then a bundle of microfibre towels to dry off the car, and some smaller ones for general use Once washed and dried, you can apply some Autoglym Super Resin Polish (you may wish to get a small applicator) Less is more, don't use too much. This contains fillers that can cover up the lesser scratches. Use the microfibre cloths to remove. After a few hours, I would say you should be good to use some wax on the car, don't wipe too hard as to remove some filler, and you should be good to maintain with 2BM washing. Re-apply SRP/Wax as needed, ideally before Winter, and again early Spring at the least. Everyone will do things differently to me, use different products etc, so you may get some more answers.

the wheel arch trims have come so fitted them today