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I was, then wasn’t. I was indeed looking at venues only last weekend. One in the lakes, one in Denbighshire. One of those, to compliment a more southern one. after such a long break, thanks big c, el Morte and pandemic, I was hoping to get at least two events up for ‘23. there is a good budget, I will be looking for someone to possibly help out, with one or both

How very technical - it was just a way to introduce what I hoped was a slightly exciting story.

About a year ago, I was looking for my first car and I found this: A Skoda Fabia estate, 1.4L TDI, not too bad for a first car. So I called up the dealer to get a reservation after months of searching for a car and finally have my first car. Anyways, the dealer later rang up and said his wife already sold it. So I got this instead: Another Skoda Fabia estate, same colour even, but with an extra cylinder, 1.6L and 105 horses. But I did loose my climate control and fog lamps :( Up to now, its been a fine and dandy motor, never had a moment when it couldn't do what I want, but I'll be honest, this car is not a special edition and I'm not planning to do too much to it outside for the sake of convenience, but hey, why not record what I do end up doing? Things I currently done: Get a spare wheel. Discover the spare wheel was only 14" and couldn't fit the front brakes Get a replacement spare wheel at 15" with legal tread Have an inadvertent collection of car jacks Vacuum up the birds nest that was hiding in my engine Hardwire install of my dashcam, I wont admit how many times that flatten my battery. And turn it into a camper to prove that estates are the superior automotive. Few things I plan to be done: Fix my boot open light Install fog lamps (just need wiring, switches and to unjam a stuck bulb) Find a boot floor mat Install a towbar (real exciting) Grab some mk1 VRS alloys, will admit the current alloys are too small for the brakes NOT install a whiteline RARB... @DieselMonte

Have been driving it a bit more (on private roads), still rough on light throttle but runs fine once you're putting the pedal down. Got it up to 70 even and it felt really solid, Handles pretty decent too although I suspect some bushes will turn to dust once it starts getting driven regularly.

I could be wrong, but I don't think that's a stop/start battery! Happy to be corrected if wrong.

Do yourself a favour @J.R. and add him to your ignore list. 🙂

If you brake on slippery ground with bad rears or do some escape type maneuvering the rear will overtake you easily. Simple physics.

I think it actually accepted the whole long wheelbase Land Rover in one swallow 🤣

At that ratio I too would roll the dice, the petrol will act like a cleaning agent.

What capacity of jerrycans do you have? Ideally you want at least 20 litres, if you have 2 making 40 litres then you are laughing. This is the procedure I would use whatever capacity of storage you have, use the preceeding advice as to how to pump the fuel out. Pump out the 20 litres (for this example), drive to closest garage and fill tank with diesel. When tank drains down to 1/2 or 3/4 (your choice) refill it from the contaminated fuel jerrycan. Continue dosing like this until you have used all the contaminated fuel. I helped a friend who had filled petrol on top of a nearly empty diesel tank, I siphoned off 2 jerrycans of mostly petrol and he refilled with diesel, I tried the mix in a lawn mower but it smoked and misfired so I was adding it gradually to every tank of diesel on my MK1 Octavia which had an old school mechanical pump, I went up to 10% petrol without any problems, in fact it ran sweeter. Yours if it is a common rail diesel I would not exceed 5% so would drain out 20 litres minimum, if its an old school mechanical injection pump then like Pete I would go for it at the current ratio unless it is running or starting badly.

The lack of lubricity introduced by the petrol is the problem here. The entire fuel system depends on the fuel for lubrication. Ideally you should drain the tank and refill with diesel but it's a bit of a pain since the filler neck has an anti siphon device. One option is to disconnect the fuel supply line from the tank at the fuel filter and route it into a container then manually supply 12 V to the lift pump in the tank to run the fuel out of it. If you don't want to go to that effort, you could get a bottle of Millers Diesel Power Ecomax and add several shots of it to the tank - leave it a few hours to mix through the fuel in the tank. It includes lubricity enhancers and would probably counteract the effect of the petrol, but I don't really know how much would be needed.

Checking a little on Google, there seems to be a few saying 5% or 7.5% is max safe amount. You have roughly 15% mix, it will likely shorten the fuel pump life, but you need to decide whether to roll the dice, you could run the car around as normal, and keep topping up often with diesel, so the percentage drops quickly.

Hi, are you able to estimate probable proportion of petrol to diesel? If reasonably low, I'm sure that there will be no issues.

As promised, here is a series of pics to illustrate the result of my 2-day detailing job these last days... After a quick clean to get rid of suicidal mosquitoes during a 800km drive... Overview of water-repellent effect of sealant Little mop yesterday This morning at work And the nicest (at least to me) this evening, on a sport shop car park Night pics are quite rare on this thread...

Take it through Rufford ford. That'll answer your question !

Frickin laser beams!

Hi, SportLine 2.0 TDI 4x4 DSG 190KM 2018 replaced with Scout 2022 2.0 TDI 4x4 DSG 200KM

Hi all, I have my iPhone 10 connected to my 2018 superb and all is well except the mute is reversed. With the red line through the microphone icon the mic is active and without the line the phone is muted. Does anyone else see this. Not a biggy but just something else to remember. Ross

Adapted, it speeds up the process of the car knowing the charge capacity etc.

Did a job on the intercooler to make it sit tighter. And changed the spot lamps hopefully for the last time. 7 inch halogen lamps this time Very very tight fit. But they do fit. Will be changing the main lights back to halogen soon. LED bulbs were not the silver bullet for improving lighting I was led to believe

Hi all, New Skoda owner here - recently picked up a 2016 Octavia VRS Estate (petrol 230PS, manual) with a heap of nice options. This is a new family wagon for us replacing my BMW Z4 Coupe, so a bit of a step change! The first few weeks haven't run completely smoothly unfortunately so I have a few technical questions to post elsewhere, but in general we're very pleased with it so far. Planning to hang on to this car for a while and hopefully be able to contribute to the forum. Cheers!

okay i found the rivet that i was looking for: https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/n91158501-plastic-rivet-with-pin-skoda-41619.html

See image above ^ Unplug connector(s) from it to stop the fan powering up non-stop.

Moved to Superb. Is this a main dealer mechanic?

See my post above

Youre probably all missing a trick... many seem to forget this part Your fog lights are also your cornering lights! sometimes only one will come on in the direction you turn the wheel!

Oops! Forgot to write SE 1.0…

A big thank you for input AG. I’m not sure if this is the right information: Fabia Hatch SE TSI 95 PS 5G manual. if that’s not right, can you tell me how/where I can find the information? thanks.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Yes seeing, and deleting, error codes can be very useful, live data even better. Not telling Grandma how to suck eggs again but as you know the state of the car battery has always been important but with the the more modern cars the state of the battery is even more important, these VWs seem to throw up all sorts of unexpected error codes and warnings. Not that I'm saying it's your present issue. I've no idea how those that only use cars for city or very local journeys are going to fair let alone in the future those that use old cars to fulfill the modern obsession for everything to be delivered even very locally are going to get it done. My wife's 2015 Fabia some days only does journeys of less than a few miles and I don't get to give it any blow-out runs I don't know how the 2019 model would cope with that overall. She only runs it on various supermarkets' E10, well normally, even she has put some V-Power in when near or passing the station that had it at such good price (you hope it's genuine!) but not enough or repeated to be of any real advantage. Once I got her to put in a (7/8ths) fill up (Esso Supreme) with the intention of me being able to do a few blow-out runs but it didn't happen as I didn't need the car.

You have to pull the light switch out, 1st position is fronts fogs on, 2nd position also puts on rear fog light, confirmed by tell tales on LH side of light switch. Must have been cornering fog lights operating he witnessed.

Earlier vehicles had a duct going down from the slam panel to a low air intake to collect cooler air, I think it might even be the case on the MQB vehicles if you look closely. But just behind the slam panel there is a chamber with a clip off lid, the clips break easily and often the lid is missing, this chamber is to drain out any rain mist of road splash that is drawn up with the intake air, its second function is to ensure that if the vehicle wades and the intake is below the water level the engine will draw air from the drain channel of the chamber at bonnet level and not suck up any water from below, air being far less dense than water the engine will happily breath through the restricted secondary intake and not lift a column of liquid. To hydraulic lock the engine of one of these vehicles you would have to wade to the bonnet depth.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. As I've found on here some people don't get the concept of the "Italian tune-up" and think it means driving like a lunatic and/or thrashing the car to death so it takes a lot of explaining and a professional would be at risk if a customer misunderstands and blames them for something stupid they do and/or any damage to car or otherwise. I've been on both sides, being a member of the public of course and trying to help customers with advice of what they could try for themselves for free and sometimes the saying "no good deed goes unpunished" is correct so it makes you selective or hesitate to offer that type of advice. Here's some advice you can't punish me for whether you take it or not - I've no idea what fuel Sainsbury's use but its the cleaners you also want, in my old car I often and frequently used the higher octane fuels for the additional cleaner additives and it seemed to work very well judging by the condition of of the carbs when I took them apart and how the car ran when using them. Try Tesco Momentem, Shell V-Power, Esso Synergy Supreme+, Jet Ultra, Texaco Supreme, BP Ultimate (my least favourite) - all for their additional cleaning additives, you will still be best giving occasional Italian tune-up runs too. Try a couple of tankfuls, and not just a couple of top-ups of a few litres each time, and see if there's any improvement after using a couple of tankfulls. All of those are up to E5 and some, depending on where in the country may be zero ethanol - but I thought I'd read that the Fabia engines, earlier models at least ran well with ethanol(?). Supermarkets don't always sell fuel at low prices now - but the E5 (labelled) fuel will be more expensive than the E10 (usually, a fairly local station had V-Power at less than the cost of Tesco E10 as I discovered when driving by it after filling up at Tescos main store).

On the mk2 it was behind a removable panel in the area you suggest. I'll have a rummage for it at some point. The jury's out still whether the 'feature' has done it thing for me. I'll definitely drive it a bit different moving on, i just poodle along trying to save fuel and the revs never get that high. I forget on a smaller engine that they generally like a bit more of a work out. I think the idle is back to where it was, probably around 900 / 950rpm. It definitely sounds back in the area were it should be. The rev counter needle behaviour was weird as well while this was going on. It would sit just above 1000 at idle while moving but when the speed dropped to say 10mph or stopped it would suddenly jump up to just under 1500 with no discernible change in engine note. I used to use the free VCDS just to read fault codes on the VW Bora. Had to buy another interface with the mk2 Fabia which was bluetooth and used Torque on the android tablet. Worked well enough for some basic home diagnostics. Actually the first one i brought was for a VW Golf mk3 GTI. It was running like **** one time and found the wires were broken on the lambda sensor from a previous half arsed repair. Total cost was £20 at the time for the OBD2 adapter. Total guessing game without being able to look at fault codes and live readouts.

Thanks everyone I appreciate all the comments, I’m going to have a think about what to do. Im edging on the side of see what happens and top up frequently but obviously do understand it is a risk. iv just spent £400ish on tyres few bits for the mot so cash it tight right now What a bummer eh? 😆

Google says "front axle beam"! which is clearly a wrong or over-literal translation, particularly since the car has a compound strut front suspension and not a rigid beam. Also. I'd want to see any "rust" on suspension components since that may be surface rust and not structural.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Having an MoT test pass is good, but . . . A lot of people in this country rely on an MoT as a state of health report but this must be put in context, the MoT, here at least, is just to say the car passed a statutory minimum standard to one trained person's opinion at one moment in time only. It does not mean the vehicle is good or as good as it could be, only that it meets the requirements I have just put, and another tester may have a different opinion, and the car could have something that fails the test at any point after the test. Over recent years the UK MoT test has become stricter and more comprehensive but it still remains that a car that is far from its best can pass, obviously it shouldn't have major issues, that are tested for, but there is some much on a car to perform below par and to go wrong. The testers are trained but they do not have x-ray eyes and have many limitations in what they can check and have to check. Here a car can pass the MoT with advisories that need attention but often some may not be attended to and at next year's MoT they may not be mentioned yet remained the same with no attention give between MoTs or the same advisories show again. Long and short of it, in the UK at least, there can be over-confidence in a car having an MoT, some people think it means nothing needs attention until the next MoT.

the enyaq is very much on the same page, though on a trip I nearly always use ABRP on screen and it is bang on

Because it doesn't let the stealership empty your wallet into their's.

Gave it a good blast up the motorway yesterday evening. A3M is just off the M27 near me and a good clear run with no cameras, M27 is awful now where I am, cameras everywhere and not so smart motorway. Couldn't get any speed up or enough distance on there last couple of attempts on the morning work run. Managed to get nearly 60miles in which seems a lot, mainly 60 ~ 80mph kept it in 5th. Used more of the rev range changing up etc. Revs have dropped back down to just under 1000rpm at present and the rougher running / hesitant performance seems much improved and dare i say it back to 'normal'... Have to see how long it lasts, just done the shopping run and its still appears to be OK. Couldn't get any E5 97 in Sainsburys though, all the pumps where dry. Just boring old E10. I've heard some cars are having issues with E10, engine management lights coming on but no real fault. Clear it then comes back on weeks later. Who knows! Anyway, cheers. you guys have saved me a trip to the dealers & £90 (for now....) It has made me get the Skoda recovery renewed though, on the fence about the extended warranty. Confidence in the longer term reliability beyond the lapsed warranty isn't really high. Why the dealers didn't say to try that first i don't know. See how it pans out from here.

So took delivery last week! It’s been great to drive and we are pretty happy with it. Have a question though - we went for the heated windscreen option but I’m not sure we actually have it installed? I can’t see any filaments in the glass and when it’s supposedly turned on it still takes ages to de mist the window. Anyone with this option shed any light?

Close one this morning nearly running out of charge. Full battery last night and 150 range showing. Did 80 miles and getting 3.3 miles to 3.1 miles driving in fog. Stopped for 30 minutes for a charge and got 16 kWh in. Enough usually for the next 80 miles I do. That leaves enough to charge later even when colder than this morning. Not today. Peeing down, fog and mist. I was down to 14 mile range with 20 miles still to go so diverted to a route where I could get on 7 kW charger if needed and went 10 mile in ECO to a single Rapid charger. A Muppet had a Hyundai plugged in but charger not charging or cable locked 🔒 in 50 minutes ago. So took the cable and managed to get a good quick charge to 90%. Just letting another driver starting to charge. The charger 6 miles further on is out of order and the one 20 miles further on again has also been off for weeks. This is on the route to and from the Ferries to Northern Ireland. Scotland,s Government need to get a grip. I know the chargers and routes but visitors can easily get caught out badly.

At least you know now the tightness of your wheel bolts having changed the wheel,s. Millions of the things fitted to VW Group wheel bolts for years now. 20 per vehicle. Common user error is someone forces the smaller covers on the locking nut and the big cover on the standard nut, or just do not put them right on. Small issue though. Just a crappy bit of plastic. More important is that the car car gets the bolts tightness checked after the PDI incase they were not checked at it.

Have you looked up this code on the Ross-Tech wiki? If not, here is link to their forum and posts by others with the same code issue. https://www.ross-tech.com/Search-Results.html?q=001542

My 280 probably has this issue. Creaks when there is suspension movement, noticeable when at really low speeds only. Have ignored it for at least 2 years now but I might try the grease/spray thing and see if it goes away.

Only took 474 days (since July 2021) Black RS, panorama roof, Canton, RS Plus pack (DCC, front assist). Wheels swapped and since photo just got new black personalised plate fitted instead of the standard white plate. New front badges on their way to replace the chrome also...

You beat me to it. I've been watching a lot of those videos lately.

From the owners manual:

Hey @dhali, you tracked me down! I remember speaking to you at the recycling centre, yeah - thanks for taking the time to say hi and ask about the car. Was nice to meet you 😃 They really are cracking cars, I'd challenge anyone to find a more complete all-rounder for the same money. If you have any other questions just drop me a message 👍

Good Scottish word there, Ryan 😁

Had mine out three times & never had an issue. Have you got the little A/C pipe and glovebox light wires in the right position?