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Update: 1. Steering controls - this was resolved through a LIN convertor which allow buttons to be programmed. 2. Drive select and start/stop button - I installed this and it is working well. Purchase link included here. There’s 11.11 sale. Great deal! https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256802851402654.html

A few pics on the way from new job to new home. Not fully moved yet, but close!

Yes we've built a house just South of New Plymouth. Not too close to that massive dormant volcano, but close enough!

I seem to recall my first digital camera was a Kodak with a very similar model number - happy days indeed Full moon tonight

UPDATE Firstly thanks for all the great advice and replies. I took the Fabia out for a drive today, it’s been sat on the drive all weekend, iv done about 15 miles and all seems fine. It’s starting fine, revs are sitting at the right level and it sounds no different at all! soon is it does a few more miles il get more diesel in and dilute the petrol down some more. Touch wood, it’s all okay so far

At that price I would suggest that before ordering anything you check for broken wires in the door bellows, which seems to be incredibly common on the mk2; unless you've already done this?

Update, not the spare wheel, as I don't have one 😅 They can stay in there, either annoying me by speaking or spending my money😅 Windows, honestly not tried, due to the crazy wet weather we've had in the UK the past week, but I'll give this a go and report back!

Hey everyone, Quick post as most of this will end up at the dump by the end of next week if its not taken. All located: North London EN6 - Will not post any of it. Very poor photos attached to show whats available if anyone needs anything. Even if you need small bits of anything seen. Suspension: Both front hubs Both rear 4WD hubs Complete brake setup with calipers, backing plates and carriers Front driveshafts without inner cups Rear suspension arm on both sides Rear springs Front springs Interior bits - All beige leather, heated: Front seat material for driver and passenger Any odd bits of trim and such for front seats Rear bench base heated Rear bench up rights heated and arm rest Side panels next to rear bench Any grab handles Centre console with arm rest Any window switches and trim Gloss black door trim panels Door card parts (door cards having bits taken off them so wont be whole) Canton front mid speakers

Happily I this didn't need paint, PDR guy did a fantastic job and much cheaper than I'd thought too. 70 euro to have it sorted, and it was a fair dent, looked worse in person. Now you honestly could not tell there was ever any dent.

Dent fixed Like it never happened. Extremely impressed.

Not at all. Just there were a lot of odd bits I required and it was cheaper to buy complete parts and interiors. Seems a shame to throw the bits I dont require away when im sure the community could make great use of it especially when its free and saves people money!

Hi, Breezy Pete, just what I was looking for, I do not have heated nozzles , so my part number will be 1Z0955985 Thanks for your and Varooom's help

Week 43 happened thankfully and told today, car is made and on the way to Emden Port for December delivery. So looks like it will be just under the 1 year mark from ordering to delivery which, strange to say it, would actually be one of the quicker turnarounds.

My standard comment on this, If I can legally pour myself into the back of a self driving car drunk as a skunk and slur at it to take me home, then and only then, I'm interested. If the car drives but I'm responsible, then nope I don't want it. tbh I have a few unpleasent experienced with 'intelligent' cruise control to make me think that right now even that is a step too far.

If it was a stone, braking when reversing will often dislodge them.

I always assumed that the PQ version were fitted to older PQx platform cars. The only Skoda example would be the 2015+ FL Yeti. The ZR version is anything MQB based, so a MK3 Octavia, Superb etc. That would generally fit into the PQ being all-in-one and ZR being split units but there are a few MQB all-in-one units (Blues, Stream for example) but I'm not sure if updates exist for them

PQ and ZR does not describe the region. ZR is a Unit which has a Screen an the unit in/obove glove Box. PQ is Screen and Unit all together.

Item 18, two variants, unheated and heated. Unheated will have no electrical connection, if you aren't sure which you have. LLLParts

One of the reasons that cars have 3 rear brake lights - the CHMSL (centre high mounted stop light) was introduced so that it's easy to tell the difference between rear side lights, rear for lights and brake lights. If a following driver cannot see the third light coming on when the brakes are applied, then you have to question whether they should be driving at all...

I've never bought the nav SD card for an Amundsen from a dealer, always from eBay. Just got a 32GB one so I can use the 'all Europe' maps on my MIB2, cost? £26.09

Try adjusting the boot "stops". Earlier versions had a very long thread on Briskoda re noise:-

I did a big thread (all info in first post) on swapping out the mid sized battery for a bigger case size...all info on case sizes & VCDS coding etc in this thread here:- How to retro-fit a bigger capacity battery to a Mk7 Golf | GOLFMK7 - VW GTI MKVII Forum / VW Golf R Forum / VW Golf MKVII Forum Quotes:- If the car has "stop/start" auto engine shutoff & restart (not to be confused with KESSY which is keyless entry & start).....you need at least an EFB type & pefferably an AGM type. This is what VAG fit at the factory:- For cars WITH "Start/Stop” eco engine shut off (BlueMotion II):- 59Ah/320A (DIN), H5 size, EFB type 69Ah/360A (DIN), H6 size, EFB type 68Ah/380A (DIN), H6 size, AGM type H5 is the mid sized case, H6 is the biggest case size. Varta who make some of the batteries for VAG confirmed that standard battery case sizes are used to make the VW factory batteries, but that the Ah capacities are “special” to VW for those case sizes. Basically, VW are confusing us to make sure we end up buying a direct replacement battery from them when in fact a standard battery which is available from any auto parts supplier will fit & do the job!! So long as the case size is the same or bigger than your factory battery & the Ah/CCA is better then buy what every you can from any car parts supplier... VCDS coding required From the Main screen:- Select Control Module [Select] [19-CAN Gateway] Advanced Functions screen:- [Adaptions-10] New value choice screen:- Change the following four channels, inputting the relevant data about the new battery. IDE03256-MAS06105-Battery adaptation-Rated battery capacity IDE03256-MAS06106-Battery adaptation-Battery technology IDE03256-MAS06107-Battery adaptation-Battery manufacturer IDE03256-MAS06108-Battery adaptation-Battery Serial Number When you click on "Battery technology" (using VCDS 21.3.0) a drop down list appears with the following options (= actual meaning):- Wet = Standard Lead Acid Fleece = Standard A.G.M. Wickel6V Wickel12V Ultracap Gel = Standard Gel Lead Acid Lithium ions = Standard LiFePO4 EFB = Standard E.F.B. Binary - AGM = "Bipolar" A.G.M. type EFB+ = E.F.B. "Plus" type Not_assigned_10 Not_assigned_11 Not_assigned_12 Not_assigned_13 Not_assigned_14 Unknown According to various sources of information, including numerous car scans & threads on Ross-Tech, "Fleece" is for standard AGM batteries, "EFB" is for standard EFB batteries, & "Wet" is for standard lead acid batteries, as these settings are used at the factory. The setting of "Binary - AGM" is apparently for specialist "Bipolar AGM" batteries! Also the drop down list is from VCDS & not generated by your car's BCM, therefore, your car may not support all the options on the list, & the BCM will reject the value when you tell it to accept it! Battery BEM codes are now redundant with the above separate channels. The most important channels are:- Rated battery capacity, Battery technology, & Battery Serial Number. For the Battery Serial Number, just change one digit of the old one. This channel tells the BCM that a new battery has been installed & to relearn the new battery & forget any “learnt values” for the old battery!

Its always good to document what you found/did so anyone else with this issue and who finds the thread will know what to do instantly.

Put some Rice Krispies in the tank and it will go snap, crackle and pop 😛

Hello. I have an Octavia Mk4 iV 2022. It annoys me that the function of the roof interior lights are separated, front and rear. For example, when I unlock the car, the lights both front and rear turns on. Just fine. When I open the drivers door, the rear lights turns off. I the backdoors are opened, the front light turns off, and only the rears are lit. When back doors are closed, rear lights turns off, and fronts turns on again. I would prefer both front and rear light were turned on and off at the same time, but I can't find any settings regarding to this. I also tried to turn lights on and while doors are opened or closed, but it doesn't seem to work. Is it supposed to work like this? It just seems so stupid that the kids have to keep the doors open to buckle up Have a nice evening

Good stuff. I got the wing fixed on the swift the other week about a year after someone caught it in a car park and drove off. The guy who did it has done a great job... Dent pulled, wing and bumper skimmed and three pack painted (pearlescent metallic). The only way you can tell is some dust in the door jamb that'll wash out... It's amazing what someone who has the skills can do! And the best bit was the cost was about a quarter of another quote I got.

Hella are a very reputable brand and make a lot of OEM quality components. I can’t comment on their EGRs, but since I see their name on a lot of things, I would be confident buying one from them. VAG sometimes use them for components right from factory like headlights and a lot of other stuff

It probably depends on how many miles it's been driven, in what kind of conditions and therefore how often the Haldex has engaged more than the ever present 10% torque to the rear wheels, I saw some pics recently of the Haldex mesh strainer from a Karoq that was badly clogged at 20k miles. On the basis of that, I had Haldex oil changed and the strainer cleaned in our Karoq at 20k miles by our local independent VAG specialist. Two before and one after pic attached. The guy who did the job said he'd seen worse. Whatever you do, make sure that the Haldex pump is removed and the strainer is cleaned. That service procedure is not included on any VAG dealership service schedule.

Thank You everyone for your help and thanks varooom for getting me moved to the right forum

Just something to add. The filter is NOT part of the guidelines for replacement at 80k on the DQ381. I personally believe this is because the filter is slightly awkward to get to and the dealer cant be bothered. Make sure if you get it done elsewhere they are also changing the filter.

Yep

Plenty of those 22 & 7 kWs if they bother going to them.. There are Mk1 Zoe cars that arrive wanting a 43 kW AC. not that many but the Zoe owner i moved to let charge used to own one and used these chargers when he had it for a rapid charge. A lovely morning before the rain, i was there very early and the Audi was plugged in at that time. before chargers wars started. Not so nice later on, thank goodness for canopies. The outside charger was working early on then not a few hours later.

Ah, thanks for explanation and welcome

Hello Abdul That's a 3.5 (facelift) you have there - nice colour! Gaz

Hello Greg Gaz

I have asked mods to move you to Fabia MKII forum, so don't worry. The RHD part number should be as shown here, also it has been replaced (either number second hand should suffice)

MIB STD2 PQ are designed for vehicles of PQ25/PQ35 platforms and the screen and unit are one piece (located in one housing) MIB STD2 ZR are designed for vehicles of platforms PQ26/PQ27(MQB-A0) and MQB. The screen and the unit are two different devices and are connected by an LVDS cable. Well there we have it! It's not one I have looked at before, and I read a post on here where someone said ZR was Russia (so clearly not correct information)

Pressure when cold suggests something is being added to the cooling system during running. Combustion gases are the obvious candidate. If there is such a leak, it will get worse, so the next sniff test may be less reassuring. Do the coolant hoses feel very solid if checked at idle after a run where the car is fully up to temperature?

Where did I suggest they sold the old car for more? Nowhere! I was just confirming whether the OP got the full value of their refund .. as some dealers might have accidentally 'forgotten' the trade in value of the old car.

I also changed the steering wheel to a 2020 Ss3. And I installed this module and all the buttons work. But the first time the steering wheel must be coded on the car without this module. then the module is installed.

It could explain the lack of heat as the silica beads can block up the heater matrix and the egr cooler. Also, there has been some other posts on here from other users in the past that have experienced a blocked or partially blocked egr cooler that has led to the coolant boiling when the car regenerates which can cause coolant loss through the pressure relief on the header tank cap. The latest coolant revision is G12 EVO this is backwards compatible with most modern coolants

Cheers for posting, I think the stage for a cleaner fixing my problem has passed haha. 😞

The bigger piece of the puzzle is how much of that 160k miles was stop start city traffic driving or non-stop highway driving?

Thanks again for help - as I get more relevant info Ill keep posting here.

I retract my first reply. I should learn to pay attention to what the car is. Had it actually had a cambelt and rear diff it would have been a good deal. As per roots usually sound servicing advice. Find a good local indy and go that route.

Sorry for the slow reply. My Scout has MFSW from factory, so it's a pre-FL steering wheel fitted.

Ask them to do cam belt ,then laugh at them when they cant find one .

I'd be worried about a place that doesn't know the engine - I thought the VRS245 had the EA888 cam chain petrol engine?

Filling is far from a nightmare on the DQ400/E gearboxes. Its no different to a normal 6spd DQ250 gearbox in terms of filling, electronically it differs massively. So maybe they dont have the correct tools, ODIS or maybe the ability or knowledge? If its any good to you I can carry the DSG service out, update the online service history and I am also hybrid/electric vehicle level 3 trained (not that it would matter as youre not working on the HV side) EDIT: Filling only becomes a pain in the ass and involves touching the HV side of things when you have replaced the mechatronics unit.