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Back up to Taranaki today with a fully loaded car. I might have overdone the weight a bit, had a few occasions when the rear wheels caught on the arches when the suspension was compressed in dips. But man this car is fun now! Mid-range is smooth, the car pulls so well! It's really satisfying to drive, especially once you get onto the twistier roads and get into a rhythm with it. I rarely rev it right out but a couple of times doing third-gear overtakes up hills I was surprised at how it just kept pulling and pulling. The brakes feel a bit wooden at first but work really well when pressed hard. I usually tend to drive more with the gears than the brakes. It loves to be powered around corners, stay on the power and it just grips and goes. Grin-inducing every corner. It just eats up the distance the drive up from Wellington flew by.

Remove the panel from the car completely so it has no power going to it. Strip the panel apart and clean the plastics with warm soapy water. The electronics should be cleaned with contact cleaner or pure alcohol and then rinsed with deionised water and left to dry. Put back together and it should all be good to go. Spraying contact cleaner onto it will just force the coffee into the panel and possibly onto the circuit board shorting it out.

Looks aftermarket maybe someone added the front sensors after it was built. Press the button and then check if the front sensors make noise

No smells at all from mine, unless I get back from a drive and a regen is just finishing, but that’s like a hot metal smell If your gut is questioning it, it might be wise to walk away. You could always do another test drive and see if it’s noticeable again but stop somewhere completely different half way on your test drive as it could have been as simple as parking over a diesel leak Put your finger in the exhaust and smear your finger around, as it has a DPF your finger should be nearly spotless, if it’s really black then your gut should be listened to. Bit strange but I never clean my exhaust and can show you a picture of what my finger looks like after compare if you like (like I said a bit strange haha)

Hi guys, Just an update: I've got the flash working now, it was the stalk. On the way to work I was fiddling about with the stalk and gave it a good pull with force which made the connection and the flash worked from both headlights and blue high beam symbol on dash appeared. Then it was working intermittently on a normal pull of the stalk, so I gave it a few more hard pulls and now it's working fine on normal pull, the flash works as normal. Something must have crawled in between the contacts. Thanks for all your help.

Op said 125k miles, owned it a fortnight. Check the mileage on receipts (and Government mot checker). Then use this to see miles each year. My hunch is the car got to nearer 110k miles in 4 years then has only used for local journeys during lockdowns and probably somebody started working from home so it lost it’s longer commuting journeys. Therefore journeys far too short to ever do a full regen and the baked on soot has just built up. If it is drinking oil, and oil is full of contamination, then I suspect the pistons are going to be worn/damaged too. It will only lead to more problems and be a money pit. Even if it looked good value you should price it with a replacement engine and DPF, otherwise return.

I'd say go back to seller and accept no less than replacement dpf.

Having tried forced regen, and car virtually permanently trying to unsuccessfully regen, it is clear it is only shifting the recent soot. There will be long term baked on soot which you are just wasting fuel trying to shift. A bottle of DPF cleaner might shift a bit more soot, but probably won’t clean it up that much further, and not enough to stop almost continuous regens. I suspect previous owner did lots of short journeys, clogged it long term, and offloaded it. In it’s current state the only way to sort the problem will be a removal and full clean by ceramex process or similar, or a replacement of DPF. You can either let supplying dealer fix it, give you the funds to get it fixed, or reject it. Sorry but it looks like you have been sold a car with a major problem which was present at time of sale. At least you bought it from a motor dealer and legally it’s their problem, if you had bought it privately effectively buyer beware and no come back.

They do get a bit smelly as they get older and put on the miles. That's particularly the case when you first start them up in low ambient temperatures and / or leave them idling. My old Mk5 Golf used to stink and it had 90K+ miles on it. I noticed that my 47K mile 2016 Yeti 150 TDI SCR was a bit smelly when I started it up the other night, whereas it wasn't in milder weather. Walk past a row of idling taxis and you'll probably notice the same smell. On the other hand I haven't noticed the exhaust on my wife's 2019 Karoq 190 TDI SCR with 25K miles on it smelling particularly.

Still an Epic car and thread Rob, nice it’s now running really well after all your efforts, top work.

I'd been pondering making something like this for a wee while to collate all my technological nonsense into one area for once. I'll probably make a few posts now and again with me messing about with computers that are definitely obsolete in the eyes of consumer culture. Stay tuned... or don't, whatever takes yer fancy.

I've driven 3 different Yeti's over the last 12 years, the first 2 were 170 TDI 4x4 Elegances and the last one for the last 5 Years was a Yeti Outdoor 2.0 TDI (150) 4x4 SE L Drive. However, in just over a week I should be picking up a 2022 (Registered in June) Karoq Sportline 2.0 TDI (150) 4x4 - ex-demonstrator with 7500 miles on it. First thing to get used to is DSG, as all my previous cars were manual! Its a shame the detailed manual is only available online, not something you can sit and thumb through like a proper paper one, and there seems to be a bewildering number of new features (including the digital dash) that I'll need to get to grips with, so come on people, educate me - tell me all about it. In particular I'd like to hear about the safety features (automatic braking?), automatic headlight control, and how this keyless stuff works, and 'Skoda Connect' none of which I have any experience of! It apparently has the 'Lights Pack' and 'Parking Pack' as fitted options - what does that do for me? Couple of pics hopefully below. Cheers,

Well, this message is written on a machine old enough to have Windoze 7 as the native OS.

We need that video'd. Pretty please.

https://www.indra.co.uk/v2h Sorry. Bad wording on my part. Should read: Flexibility is key here, your car battery becomes one of many variable the National Grid can use to help control their balance.

Looks cheap and nasty, I’d be getting rid of that asap.

Exactly. Larger clearance at inlet is due to alloy pushrods, which expand more.

Cheers for the reply,ended up ordering a set of cheapish covers to see how they are, Should have upgraded as you said their silly money but probably worth it in the long term

You can fit 18 (they are standard in some countries on vRS) or 17 inch You cannot fit 16 inch to vRS as it has bigger front brake disc size.

I think it means there is an engine management system fault detected. It has probably also reduced engine power when the light is flashing. Could be many things from a sensor to egr or dpf faults, will need scanning for fault codes to find out.

Since the Waze app works fine with cars not on the MQBEvo platform, I don't 100% agree with that statement on erWin. There's an incompatibility with Waze but whether it's poor software design/implementation by Waze or by VAG is an open point.

1.4 TSI Twincharger engines with a 3.6 litre oil capacity could be (Still can be)1.5 litres low and no Low Oil Level light or message and you might get a Low Oil Pressure light or message first. Part of the reason so many died prematurely.

Nothing in the manual. Having popped the bonnet, the wiring looks aftermarket. There is power to the switch as there is a little light on the switch, but pressing it doesn’t seem to do anything. Car is only 3 years old and I got a warranty with the dealer who sold it it me a month ago, so may get it investigated. Thanks all

Beats the heck out of me as well ! Presumably there is an easy way but I have been defeated trying to find it.

Consider using my repair service, just £50. Send me a message if interested. Details in the Entrepreneurs section.

The issue is not really availability, but availability in the UK which is not in the EU and the delivery from some being twice the cost of the items ordered.

? What does the Owners Manual say? There is mention of it.

In the original post I was using waste vegetable oil (wvo) but I now use waste motor oil (wmo), Tbh it is very fecked and looks like a smoke machine with massive puffs of white smoke. 26/34 mpg is a Very tragic number I'll be looking over the car when I get the time

They oil ash levels are only a calculation from an algorithm anyway, they could be much better or much worse in reality. I am encouraged to see measured soot levels being less than calculated, that to me is a sign of a healthy DPF, the couple of threads running at present where people have blocked DPF's and are suffering constant regens both have measured soot levels significantly higher than the calculated ones.

Yes this value seems normal, plenty of life left for that.

The long leisure drives can work for a good while but the point comes where that is not enough. Leisurely is actually not what is required.

@AK-S6How many miles has it done now, and how many when 2 years old, then 3 year old at the MOT? No record of services after the Skoda dealership ones is something not that great unless the price you are paying is a bargain and you feel lucky. ? What warranty you you getting with the car, and if you end up buying a wrong un are you prepared to through it back to them? Buying an extended warranty will be an issue. ? Are you going to carry out servicing of stuff you have no record of having been done?

Sorry to hear the static regen didn't go as expected, I had an issue with my 1.6TDi green line where it was stuck trying to regen all the time. The regen ran, but the soot measured hit at wall at 15g, and couldn't drop lower. The suspicion was that it had been used for too many short journeys, and the soot was kinda 'baked' on a little. I have a friend who put in some DPF cleaning solution that after treatment allowed the soot measured to actually drop down to 1-2g, not saying this is what you need right now, as you need to push back on the vehicle supplier and see what they say (I hope you took screenshots or pictures on phone of the regen values earlier) Keep us in the loop, and let's see what happens next together.

Thanks. I do understand that, but it lets people know how it was driven. If I keep it, once the dpf is sorted, I need to retrofit a speed limiter (missing because I have an early ACC) and then I’m happy to drive it by foot and see what MPG I can get.

Kilen lists 3Q0511115AK standard ride height rear springs for the Superb MK3 2.0TDI 140kW FWD hatchback/estate. Kilen lists 3Q0511115AL standard ride height rear springs for the Superb MK3 2.0TDI 140kW 4x4 hatchback. Kilen lists 3Q0511115M standard ride height rear springs for the Superb MK3 2.0TDI 140kW 4x4 estate. If you get hold of your car's build codes, you will be able to see what was fitted when the car left the factory. There's an ebay seller who can supply the build codes for about 3 Euros. Search "skoda vin decoder" on ebay. search "skoda vin decoder" on ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224631127243 For example, build codes 1JA+0YC would mean that you have 3Q0511115AK rear springs as shown in the chart below. You might find that your car has around 180 build codes, but the exact number varies from car to car. Once you have your build codes, you can input them into the "vw codes decoder" to find out what they all mean. "vw codes decoder" http://igorweb.org/equidec.aspx Superb MK3 standard ride height rear springs 1 3Q0511115AH Coil spring 2 PR-1JA+0YA 1 3Q0511115AJ Coil spring 2 PR-1JA+0YB 1 3Q0511115AK Coil spring 2 PR-1JA+0YC 1 3Q0511115AL Coil spring 2 PR-1JA+0YD 1 3Q0511115M Coil spring 2 PR-1JA+0YE 1 3Q0511115N Coil spring 2 PR-1JA+0YF 1 3Q0511115P Coil spring 2 PR-1JA+0YG 1 3Q0511115Q Coil spring 2 PR-1JA+0YH 1 3Q0511115R Coil spring 2 PR-1JA+0YJ 1 3Q0511115BC Coil spring 2 PR-1JA+0YK https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/SUP/851/5/511/511000

Because you can not use Snow Chains with 19" wheels on a vRS. PS You certainly do not have to buy new to get Steel Wheels or even alloys in a smaller size to go on your car. Best not to really since you might be putting Snow Chains on.

You can download one from a sticky in this forum. See the stickies at the start. Skoda have introduced a refreshed section on their site which allows you to download any handbook for any model past and up to the latest models

OK. Sorry if it was a bad tip...

On my last 2 vehicles I have never succeeded in stopping the error, even removing the radio module from the installation list did nothing, knowing that the Chinese head unit I fitted is at the very least recieving data from the canbus and possibly sending it as well (shut down signals etc) I even tried selecting each of the other possible audio units from the menu, same result. When I sold the last vehicle I gave the owner a fault code print out and explained the reason, it's actually 2 fault codes but can't recall the details, I gave him the original radio and said if he wanted to return to that it would no longer have the fault codes. I understand the OP's frustration, you want a clear score card, each time it says "2 fault codes recorded" there is a second or so of doubt before the same ones come up again.

Hi@mjfend26 - not the wrong place, don't worry, but not sure many will know the answer either. I too have a stock diffuser kicking about in the under stairs cupboard, primarily because I didn't see much demand for them in the second-hand market. Looking on here: https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/5e5807521-rear-bumper-spoiler-skoda-23483.html - looks like it's going for EUR 55.00, but second hand - would presume like ~£30 + P&P?

After a while another subtle change. Now it is completely de-chromed. ☺️

Hi, there. I got my car two days ago. It was ordered 06.07.22 and was delivered on 15.11.22 (4 months). No additional extras. It is a Octavia Style, manual, and is absolutely gorgeous. I think everything is getting better now. Hold on, I bet you’re car will be fantastic and the wait will worth it.

Cleaned up

This came up on AutoTrader. I'm quite fond of Almeras, and this one is just the best I've ever seen. My Mum isn't convinced... yet. https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202211011264663

According to the sticker on the bonnet, it's done cold. Even gives the proper clearances. Set timing today. Helped a lot. Carb Rebuild kit should be here tomorrow or Friday.

Also gave the SE a clean and ceramic coating today…

If you want fun don't go -40mm, slamming it all for show, not go, the VRS is already lowered compared to the standard Fabia.

Or just go outside and wave your polisher around like you’re about to start. normally at that point a neighbour will swing by and say ‘don’t forget mine next’, ask them to bring it round, that’s a car to practice on and a box of chocolates on your doorstep at Christmas.

The buttons don't tend to have a wire for each function, instead it's probably a resistor ladder so the resistance changes depending which button is pressed. That's probably why you have to press set then seat position rather than both together If so, then it's entirely possible that by changing a single resistor you can convert between 'massage' and '3' buttons. It's also possible that it's part of the electric seat module parameter data...