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Things are looking up. I received news on Friday that my car is now complete and on it's way to Emsden prior to being shipped to the UK...Hopefully it'll arrive soon 🙂

Hi, girlfriend has a 2019 Octavia 1.5 TSi Estate. Bought from Marshalls as an ex-Skoda UK fleet car with about 12000 miles. Had it 18 months and now at 30700 miles the car has asked for a service. It had extended warranty which I'm not sure whether or not has run out now but as she plans to keep it a while we're not so bothered about dealer servicing and I have always serviced our own vehicles as I have more confidence in my ability than most dealers. I keep all receipts and sign and date them with the milage when the parts were fitted (since they don't bother to give you a service book now). So, I have just serviced the car with the same Castol Edge Long Lifer 5W-30 VW 504 00/507 00 we've used for top-up, Mahle Oil Filter, Air Filter and Pollen Filter (the air filter was fairly clean, pollen filter which came out was pretty filthy and probably never been changed - so much for main dealer service). I'll probably wait till next service to change the spark plugs. My question though is this: It went 18700 miles without asking for a service, but now that I have serviced it, it tells me oil change due in 9400 miles. So has it now changed itself to fixed rather than variable servicing and does it have to be plugged in (via OBD) to maintain it as variable?

It’s 2017 model with the exhaust flaps. No, I just put the vRS badge on from Kopacek for the extra 20 horsepower! I also recently did a chrome delete on it with wrap (by a professional) and some small plasti dip on the badges and chrome grille strips.

Pouring it down this evening. Quite like the effect of the rain in the torchlight

Always. I’m with Sam Goldwyn. “A verbal contract isn’t worth the paper it is written on.”

Thanks @SuperbTWM I was running on a total lack of sleep this weekend gone. I did sleep in today to catch up 😆 My brain was thinking of the AdBlue tank location, but here is the injector sitting just between the two 'cans' of the overall DPF system.

When something is lopsided on my car it bugs me endlessly. As a result I’ve been wringing my hands about what to do with one side of my Superb 206/280 exhaust tips being 7mm lower than the other. Apparently it’s always the left side too 😂. After spending a few minutes with my head under the rear end hiding from my kids I realized a marine grade snail clip around the exhaust hanger was the perfect answer! Two minutes later, perfect symmetry and infinitely adjustable for about $2. (Just don’t ask me if the vRS badge is straight…🤔)

All petrol 1.5 TSI's are ACT as far as i know.

Who needs a ute when you have a roof rack? 100kg of cement in the boot and passenger footwell as well as a bit of timber. The guys at Placemakers seemed a bit bemused by it all.

I always thought it was a seperate system but if you look at the components it goes turbo>Nox catalyst>Adblue injector>DPF. The adblue and DPF go hand in hand really as the function of the DPF regeneration actually creates a lot more nox than the car otherwise would without a DPF. On the Euro 6 VAG engines there is a nox catalyst straight after the turbo (but before the adblue injector) which stores the nox at low exhaust temperatures, when the car goes into a DPF regen and cylinder and exhaust temps increase and this then gets converted into nitrogen. During said regen the nox goes throught the roof due to the increased exhaust and combustion tempratures that are helping regen the DPF and this is where the adblue injection comes in to convert the rest of the Nox to nitrogen and water which happens inside the DPF (must be some hybrid catalyst/DPF in cars that have SCR) Source: youtube (so it must be true 😂)

Sunrise (in the wing mirror) on the way to work on Friday.

After seeing so many people doing it the wrong way, I decided to make my own video

I'd been pondering making something like this for a wee while to collate all my technological nonsense into one area for once. I'll probably make a few posts now and again with me messing about with computers that are definitely obsolete in the eyes of consumer culture. Stay tuned... or don't, whatever takes yer fancy.

Just compl;eted my first drive over a decent distance 860 miles, Somerset to Stirling and back over the weekend. Car took it in its stride no problems at all. Used the ACC extensiveley for the first time. Didn't like it when I first got the car but persevered and now wouldn't want to do without it. Weather was atrocious with heavyweight rain and gallons of spray. Goty a bit hairy at times and down to under 30mph on the motorway because of it. Because of the varying speeds i' don;t know what the mpg whould be but it reckon I was getting 45 to the gallon - 2ltr petrolf. Well pleased.

Carburetor has been rebuilt and it is back together but I've messed something up bad. Went to start it and it immediately tried to overrev. Wasn't sure what was going on so on advice of friends I took the top apart to check the float and all was moving free and set right, so far as I can tell its all OK. First video is what happens if you start it without Choke. Second video is what happens when you start it with choke. (Numbers are out of order, oops.) Took the carburettor off and checked the bottom gaskets incase there was a leak there, all seems well there too. I CAN get it to run and idle by pulling the vacuum for the second barrel. The second (big) barrel on this is operated on vacuum. Throttle cables been disconnected the whole time so the small barrel shouldn't be moving. This video shows it running with the second carb disconnected. I moved the second barrel by hand to see how it'd react. I think it's important to not that I can choke it out by covering the intake with my hands, makes me think there are no leaks where air is getting in. Last video I recorded in the middle of things, switched the ignition on and off to see if it would run for any length like that. Again, throttle off, no small child in the cabin pressing the throttle etc. Safe to say I'm pretty stumped at the minute. Definitely getting the impression it's something very simple and very stupid I've caused without realising.

I think I have a few of them still knocking about myself. I do remember the days of the fan running like mad and the area underneath the machine burning hot. Nothing less than W7/W10 running in our family now. But not on the N610c’s obviously.

Does the battery light work correctly when the ignition is first switched on but the engine is not started?

Don't know the answer but my unch would be the ABS valve block and/or controller, wheels locking up is a sign of the ABS not working, without it the vehicle is very overbraked or more likely overservoed, its very hard to cadence brake because with the ABS not working they lock up so easily, not releasing though is very scary. It does not sound like you have a fluid leak and were you to have one you would no doubt see the master cylinder level drop but I would point out that your engine off pedal rock solid test can't be relied on because the servo control loading spring is massive due to the overservoing and you would really need to be bending the seat back to overcome it to test the master cylinder.

On an Octavia or a Citigo? Thanks, AG Falco

But your eyes blinked three times and you made bleeping noises.

Got my windows tinted and also there is some noise with the ones that goes in the door frame.

A 1.6TDI with a DSG would have a DQ200 7 speed twin dry clutch one. That behaviour would and should not happen as far as the gears.

Thanks for that. Yeah, I will probably service it annually anyway as I always have with previous cars. I agree anything over 12k miles seems too much to me regardless what oil you're using but took the view the VW/Skoda engineers must know best. More frequesnt changes can't hurt though.

I would ask for all of that to be put into writing, if you are going to go ahead with this route.

If you look @ the top of the page there is a sticky thread titled my new diesel smells of burning rubber. You will need to get comfy. do you have a DSG gearbox ?. To partly answer some of your questions 1. the DPF will regen as & when needed. It is triggered by the soot levels and will normally happen when the DPF is hot enough. 2. you won't know when it's doing a regen unless you have diagnostic software. If when you park up & switch the engine off & hear the radiator fan running unexpectedly you will know that you've interrupted a regen. There are 2 types of regen passive & active, A passive regen happens as you're driving & the DPF is hot enough. PS if you don't know the answer but want to then it's not a stupid question.

Just the chart I've been looking for, thanks! Seems from the year the box in the MK3 VRS will likely be the DQ380, but I'll check the VIN when looking at cars. I'm looking to go with a DSG box, don't think I can go back to a manual but thanks for the advice. So long as the DSG box is solid enough to take stage 1 then I'm happy.

I have spoken to the dealer and I am cautiously positive. what we have agreed is that they will pay for the car to be diagnosed, have the dpf removed and cleaned, the inlet tract and dpf cleaned at a terraclean centre of my choice. if, after that and an oil change, the car uses oil in the next 1000miles they will take it back and give a full refund. that seems pretty reasonable to me. What do you think?

Do a search "Add paddles" (without the quotes) on all forums in Briskoda (not just this Karoq forum). It will give you some idea as to the sort of problems you may encounter. I imagine the best result would be a swap with a paddle equipped steering wheel from another Karoq. On my 1.5 dsg I only use the paddles when I need a quick overtake. Dropping two gears is quicker than using the kick down especially when driving in Eco mode. A slightly longer pull on the Up paddle then gets me back to Eco. good luck tom

If it's a bladed key, you can get thoat part cut by any decent auto locksmith. The immobiliser blanks can be bought online and a decent mechanic will have the kit and knowledge to program it to match your car. If you're near Reading, I can recommend someone who doesn't charge a fortune...

http://www.worknest.com/blog/electric-vehicles-a-silent-danger-for-employers I am sure they will run articles in the media. Ones very negative unless their publishing group owners are invested in EV's, manufacturing, promoting, subscription / leasing etc. http://shponline.co.uk/road-safety/increased-risk-to-public-as-near-silent-electric-vehicles-become-more-common-driver-training-firm-says Newspaper & Magazine and parcel / mail deliveries will be mostly by EV in built up areas in the very near future. But as it is there have been EV's on the roads for over a decade. Many Taxis in the likes of Dundee if anyone wants Research Grants to do the figures on Accidents. These were cars pre EU Legislation for Type Approval and making a noise for pedestrains. Cyclists are something you really need to be aware of not hearing you, but then many can not hear a diesel waiting to get passed them, and mirrors are not mandatory. Or being able to look behind without wobbling all over the road.

MK3 manual with a superchips 300bhp map at 10 months old, second MOT due December and no, I haven't had a new clutch or gearbox. Getting the power down in 1st is impossible, second difficult and 3rd can be tricky. After that its easy!

I hate fake engine noises or any fake noise for "driver engagement". It's totally unnecessary. EV motors have their own character already. Under max power, I've found Leaf motor have a different sound to Tesla motors. The sound changes according to speed, just like ICE. Difference is they are completely silent during normal use, which is much better. Only necessary fake sounds are a gentle sound for warning pedestrians at low speed and car park reverse warning sound.

You may not have requested it, but I’m giving it anyway. You’re welcome👍

Essentially, at 7m away, the top of the low beam shining on the wall should be at or slightly below the height of the center of the headlight projector lens. hence u need to measure:- 1. centre of project lens to the ground 2. top of low beam cut-off to the ground. #2 should not exceed #1. ideally, #2 should b between 2-5cms lower than #1. obviously the ground must b level/flat.

Another unrequested opinion then, i agree it looks cheap and nasty, shame that someone went to the effort of cutting a hole in the dash to fit a aftermarket pdc kit on a fairly new car, especially when they offer a factory fit retrofit kit that would look so much nicer and integrate better

Thanks John will try and get some 17 " on tomorrow. Will post eventual outcome on here so no one who is ignorant to the trials and tribulations of fitting chains to VRS has to go through this frustration. Still not confident as read on one site smallest wheels to fit on this model is 18", fingers crossed i've got it wrong. Thanks again for your guidance

Hi guys, Just an update: I've got the flash working now, it was the stalk. On the way to work I was fiddling about with the stalk and gave it a good pull with force which made the connection and the flash worked from both headlights and blue high beam symbol on dash appeared. Then it was working intermittently on a normal pull of the stalk, so I gave it a few more hard pulls and now it's working fine on normal pull, the flash works as normal. Something must have crawled in between the contacts. Thanks for all your help.

Thanks Nigel, been back to the manual and can not find any info on VRS model. Have been searching for specifications on wheel size for this model and Have been led to believe 18 " wheels are smallest that fit. Am beginning to lose the will to live. Thought would of been simple to contact dealer, get information and act accordingly. I give up, think will fly instead. Thanks so much for everyone who has tried to help. Take it easy

One of my puddle lights in an indicator failed. I bought a new bulb and failed to remove the glass as it was held in very tight. So I asked a Skoda garage to replace the bulb when the car was in for other work. They found the bulb had not failed but the software set up had changed! They recoded it and it has been fine now for the last two years. No charge made either! I mention this in case you find your old bulb has not blown.

Ignore me, just figured it out. You need to have part of the mechanism poking out before pushing the key in.

Finally got the oil temp gauge hooked up so more track days 😆 Little trip here to test it out noticed it was running pretty cold due to the cold weather so friend was selling this to help block the oil cooler but it doesn’t seem to like the milotec grill.

I have done the VIN filtered search, and it seems you have the original part mentioned fitted. Oddly doesn't look like yours, but you either need to get old one off, or opposite side if needed (part number will be 99% same, just 101 / 102 for left/right for example.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Cross referenced (hopefully) conformation from Ring Automotive Ltd, something for the bedroom wall. - https://www.ringautomotive.com/files/mydocs/Other_Catalogues/12V_Wallchart.pdf 12V_Wallchart.pdf

Worth a shot... 🙂 I guess I'll just get the tyres done next week and let the garage do their thing. I may have a go at doing the discs and brakes myself (can it really be that difficult? I'm not completely inept) then torqueing up carefully and praying to every deity that it'll all be ok!

I tend to use https://fast.com/

part number and specs should be on the inside if OEM wheels

Someone hit my car earlier today in a car park (no note left of course). Fortunately there aren't any dents but there are scratches I'll need to get tidied up but worst of all the headlight cover has been knocked off and was nowhere to be seen. A few quesyions; 1. Where's best to get a new one from? 2. Is the drivers side (UK) called the left or the right? 3. Is it possible to get them pre painted or are they all supplied primed and if so will the person fixing the scratches likely to be able to spray this at the same time?

I reckoned for the sake of humourous effect more people would get the cassette reference than the 8 track. And I'm old enough to have been at the Isle of Wight festival in 1969 and 1970... fortunately I can remember barely anything about them.

You can get small USB-C flash drives like this MyMemory 128GB Dual USB-C & USB 3.1 Flash Drive - 200MB/s £20.99 - Free Delivery | MyMemory that will plug into a PC using one end to load your music onto it, then plug into the Karoq using the other end to play it back. They even fit under the sliding lid to the phonebox compartment.

Hi guys, this topic make me interested in how to get into a dashboard fuse box if I will ever need it to. So I look at it and made some pictures for others to show how to open. You will need small flat screwdriver to unlock securing tab located on top in the middle. When you manage this, than lid will open down and can be removed completely. After that you can remove white bracket clip for fuses removal, located on bottom behind fuse box. Access to this box is pretty terrible, so I wish you good luck. I managed to open and surprisingly it looks like almost half of fuses are missing. For example no. 47 witch is air blower for air conditioning/heating is not there, like many others. Does anyone know why is that and can some of you check on yours and post picture to compare? I have 2017 SE-L, so there may be some differences between trims