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Well, it's more non-linearity in the gauge than inaccuracy as such. If your model has a trip mileage readout, I suggest filling the tank, zeroing the trip and then leaving it until the next fill, at which point you note the actual mileage achieved and re-zero the trip.

I have often seen as have others, that a full to the brim tank that the needle will not move from F for a long time, once it starts moving it will move steady to 1/2 tank. Below 1/2 a tank I find it seems to accelerate. It's about tank curve profiles in software and other VAG such settings like that I would say. Only good way to measure consumption is brim to brim filling for accurate figures. Of course the car needs tyres inflated to correct values and servicing done on engine/dsg for it to achieve a sensible mpg.

I went from a vRS Estate to a 7.5 Golf GTI and am not disappointed. No kids at home any more, so I don't need the space. Bogwoppit's right though - when you start chucking stuff in the boot, the difference in the space available is quite startling. I use a mobility scooter, and a folding bike, which the vRS would swallow with ease, but the Golf does not. Gaz

I thought the same, but as others have said, only need the offside to work in the UK for the MOT to be passed. (my car had it's first MOT under my ownership on Monday, and passed with just the one) I guess with the mass production it's easier to install both bulbs then just code the required one for each region.

yes, this delay only for Amundsens

This is really good advice. There is always going to be a trade-off, whatever you buy. The only time I've ever bought a car that was the exact colour and spec I wanted, was when I bought it new. The trade-off there was the price, though. Have a look at loads of cars and get a feel for what a "good" Octavia looks, sounds and feels like. Keep your options open, you'll find that all variants have their pros and cons.

VCDS/ODIS Service How to adapt a new battery A little guide I made to help you adapt a new battery to your vehicle VCDS How to adapt a new battery.pdf ODIS Service How to adapt a new battery.pdf

It is an easy thing to check. Just turn the car on (and probably drive a bit) and have an eye on the thermostat outlet hose. If it warms up gradually it shows the thermostat is stuck open whereas if it is cold and suddenly gets warm when the gauge temp is close to middle then it works fine. My car has the same issue (gauge temp drop with turning on the heating or when goes downhill) which I think is the thermostat.

Hello Gaz, Yes I'm on the UKPassats forum having had a B5.5 and more recently a B8 Alltrack. I've just moved away from an Audi A4 3.0 Allroad, great car but I needed something cheaper as I've got myself another Corrado VR6 to play with. Dave

I want the VAQ 😜 although well see, Tesco loans department is yet to phone me back lol.

1. ECO makes the car very lethargic. Often at the most inconvenient times. Like exiting junctions, joining roundabouts, making an overtake. Not a driving mode that suits my smooth and controlled style. 2. Insists on freewheeling and giving you that out of control sensation whenever you hit a down slope. Which has to be countered by using brake or throttle as appropriate. Chasing yet he last fraction of MPG doesn’t figure in my driving. Half a century ago I was trained that freewheeling was very Bad Practice and only for the loons trying to beat the Mobil Economy Run fuel consumption figures. Utter nonsense from our 21st century car makers who are simply playing the economy numbers game using every possible tweak, sensible or otherwise. And some fall for it as being gospel. I’ve never seen freewheeling recommended by anybody promoting advanced driving techniques. I’ll maybe go double check in my old copy of Roadcraft. For some reason my car in normal Drive mode insists on dropping out of gear regularly, so I’m wearing out the LH paddle to kick it back in to whatever gear it was in. Obviously doesn’t misbehave in Sport mode.

A proper LSD would be the mechanical solution and is always 'on'. I'd consider the VAQ to be an electro-mechanical solution. It can adjust the amount of pressure in the clutch pack and therefore transfer varying levels of torque depending what the control module deems necessary. - Sometimes it'll be completely 'off' and the diff will function like an traditional open diff - Sometimes it'll be completely 'on' and will act more like a mechanic LSD (the VAQ does have a limit to the torque it can transfer) - Most of the time it'll probably be between the two depending on driving conditions and driving style Different driving modes will change the VAQ operating parameters. In sport mode, I'd expect it to have more preload and react more quickly/aggressively to help with dynamic driving demands. XDS is indeed software, it basically brakes the inside (rear?) wheel to help control understeer. EDL is another software solution (electronic diff lock) which relies on the brakes to slow a spinning wheel and transfer torque through an open diff. I would expect a non-VAQ vRS to use both EDL and XDS/XDS+ to help control understeer. Obviously when applying the brakes to control the car, it will slow down fractionally. I think it was worth 8.5s around the Nürburgring but I doubt that translates well into a supermarket trip Random video that might help explain what a VAQ is:

As always I'm late to the thread, but I remember seeing this a while ago. It's quite interesting seeing how the different wheels get traction when two or more wheels spin freely. It's not as quick a transfer of grip as I'd been led to believe. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jginpofm2ng EDIT: Just noticed Langers beat me to it with the MK4 test. Bah!

I had that on a completely different VW Group car, a VW Passat 4Motion 2000, which like the earlier MK1 Superb were just some old Audi bits as far as the drive train was concerned, so being a pessimist, I thought "gearbox/diff" so handed it in after swopping wheels around, with a very heavy heart, the noise that car made, and started making quite quickly from being very quiet, was more of a wah wah like older army trucks with off road (mainly) tyres, luckily it was only a front wheel bearing so I got both sides replaced, noises gone, I never ever tried driving through that noise, I just used it as little as possible until I could get it "seen to", mileage at that time was probably near 75K miles/9years old. My wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS, started making "bearing noises" when it was only over 6 years old and 30/35K miles, as I initially hoped it was uneven tyre wear, but when it came time to change from directional winter tyres to summer tyres the noise unfortunately did not go away! I did keep running it and yes, I could easily drive through that noisy band of road speed, it was just a hum that could easily be "got rid of" by turning the radio on and up a bit, I replaced both front bearing assembles and that sorted that out. Edit:- that can be the reality of running a 4WD car, always start with the worst possible source of the noise, I've only ever had, as my car, a 4WD car for the past 30 years and never yet had any "4WD" related issues.

The DPF will regen when either the Soot measured or the Soot calculated reads a certain value, so whichever gets there first. As for your measured, they shouldn't normally read a negative value, so might need adapting or cleaning of the tube down to the DPF. Odds are the remap has the car thinking that it has a loot of soot (calculated, not measured) being generated, when as mentioned the actual real measured values are perfect. This could be a limit of the car's actual ECU thinking it is making a lot of soot, potentially the ECU might need rolling back to a pre-NOx flash, and then tuned once more. FL_03L906018BR_6748.frf <-- This will be a pre NOx version FL_03L906018BR_9970.frf <-- This is the beginning of the NOx version (emission cheat fix) FL_03L906018BR_9977.frf <-- Your current flash FL_03L906018BR_9978.frf FL_03L906018BR_9979.frf FL_03L906018BR_9980.frf FL_03L906018BR_9981.frf

PS - just noticed that your dealer is in the Medway Towns. If you're lucky your car will come into Sheerness. I was unlucky with Grimsby.

Cracking roof spoiler...

I never tap the brake pedal, I tap the accelerator if someone is behind.

Thanks Toot. Which gearboxes "don't like" (for want of a better phrase) ECO mode?

ECO, is not the same in all engines / DSG,s. As in a 1.0 or 1.4 TSI without ACT and a DQ200 DSG, or a 1.6 TDi,. Then there are 1.5 TSI,s ACT with maybe a DQ200 or a DQ381. Then you get to 2.0 TDI or TSI,s and wet clutch 7 speed DSG.s. lots of choices and also modes making differences.

Which is completely specious. I've just read through Section 8.2.1 of the current MOT tester's manual, and there is no mention of the Emission Control System light. As such it can not be an MOT failure.

Both our cars bomb for the last 1/3 of a tank - even mine, with its virtual cockpit 🙄 I use Fuelly to get brim to brim actual readings. Gaz

It took a long time "Checking Navigation Data" but it loaded and "Home" is showing correctly. I'll be testing it live later today. Many thanks. 👍🏻

Originally in O4 there are 155mm speakers. As i wasn't 100% sure if VW IS 165 will fit, i have ordered one set of each. In case 165 would not fit in the front, i would install 155, and return 165 and get 155 for the back. However it was a fit, so i decided to leave 165 in the front, and install 155 in the back. First of all difference is not big in reality, second i heard that rear is limited when it comes to bass extension on the MIB3 side, so made no sense to return 155 to get another set of 165. Long explanation, but i hope it's clear

Map files on official skoda update portal-website are up, ready to download for Columbus - For MIB2 and MIB2.5 ( 28GB )

My previous 1.4TSI manual averaged 45mpg, so with a DSG you should get nearer to 50mpg (or better). Remember than fuel gauges are VERY non-linear, on the Octavia it barely moves from full for nearly 100 miles then falls slowly to about half and then accelerates - so I would not be making any assumptions on fuel consumption based solely on starting at a gauge showing half full. Wait until you have a full tank and then do a full to full test.

Thanks. It was German Auto who installed the springs. And my car is MY21 so I'd say the later. Thanks I'll send Julian my VIN

Hello Besters Congrats on the TdF 😎 My first Skoda was a Superb (2005 Mk1), which I loved to bits. Although I've gone back to VW for the time being. Name seems familiar, not that I can place it - are you on other VW fora; UKPassats perhaps? Gaz

Unfortunately i don't know that. The cars was for several weeks at the garage as they tried many things (which solved 30% of the noise) Replacing this mount was their last action and it removed the remaining 70%.

I have a sneaky feeling that the DAB & FM radio use the rear heated window as an antenna and that the sharks fin is for GPS and the data connection only, but I may be wrong. There are threads on here talking about rear facing dash cams stuck on the glass knocking out reception.

I had been getting water coming into the passenger footwell after heavy rain and especially if I parked with both nearside wheels on the pavement in front of my house. Under the bonnet below the windscreen on the passenger side of the car there is a scuttle drain with an opening close to the bottom of the channel underneath a cover for the heater blower motor. There isn't much depth from the opening to the bottom of the scuttle and I make the assumption because you can't see with the windscreen wiper mechanism covers in place that during heavy rain the channel wasn't emptying fast enough and the excess water was running into the blower motor opening and then into the passenger foot well. The scuttle drain on my 2012 Superb was fairly clean but I found when I took the front wheel arch liners off the car between the wheel arch liners and the bulkhead they were absolutely rammed full with leaves and what looked like black compost so there must have been several years worth. This was stopping the rain water from flowing away fast enough from the scuttle drain. I've hosed away all the debris off the bulkhead and I've not had anymore ingress of water into the car.

Ignore the missing file checksum, it will work without that, and should exist checksums in another file (cannot recall off top of head) Put it in the car, and use.

It depends how much boot space you need, the Golf has roughly 200 litres less than the Octavia. I think the GTI comes with Front assist and adaptive cruise control as standard. This can help on insurance groups. If you are considering something Golf size, don't forget the Leon Cupra, this comes with more power than the other 2, also they have DCC and the VAQ diff as standard

And let the tweaking begin 😊 So the parts came mid last week, but the weather was grim and it was only yesterday I had a chance. The intake side on the left and the charge cooler on the other After about an hour of swearing, catching my fingers and knuckles on everything remotely sharp and requiring double jointed wrists, I got all the standard stuff removed. Charge pipe side of things in. And finally the intake section in!! I'm made up with the results. From around 1750rpm, you get a nice loud 'whoosh' when you're accelerating. It is a bit louder when you bury the throttle as well. I've been on the motorway both yesterday when I was testing and today twice on a few errands and it's not a hinderance whilst cruising at 70. I've got the remap, along with the lines, booked in on the 19th and 20th January, so the benefits of a freer flowing intake will be gained. I've not put the standard intake air router on the front grill yet, but I will be doing. Need to sort out the official blanking plate for the exit on the driver's side, as the tape which I've used for a while is starting to 'peel' off.

Pretty sure only pre-FL 230 and FL 245 got the VAQ, if it's a pre-FL 220 or FL 230 then it won't have a VAQ... The VAQ is basically a hydraulically operated clutch pack between the right hand drive shaft and differential cage. By adjusting the pressure on the plates, it can transfer torque across the front axle. A vRS (and other Octavia models) without VAQ will have 'EDL' which is a brake based system that applies braking force to the spinning wheel(s). If heated seats are on your list, maybe look for '67 or '18 plate 245's. When the 245 was first released the was an 'edition' spec with the following extras:

P1240394.MP4

Today was our annual pilgrimage to to RAF Donna Nook - reassured to see the seal numbers look very healthy (and comparable with last year👍)

I do love the colours of this time of year... and the car~

It should be fine to start up and go,the missisus fiat 500 stood for six months during lockdown without handbrake on to avoid it sticking ,we just had to charge the battery it fired up and off it went with no issues 👍

Pouring it down this evening. Quite like the effect of the rain in the torchlight

Who needs a ute when you have a roof rack? 100kg of cement in the boot and passenger footwell as well as a bit of timber. The guys at Placemakers seemed a bit bemused by it all.

The drizzle caught in the torch light.....

Finally, after two months I have cleaned the car. The refurbed silver wheels are much more to my liking as I never really was a fan of the gloss black. I've also attached a couple of photos of our Ignis as I had those wheels done at the same time in BBS gold.

Quick note to site admin - i know this is against the rules, but there's a good reason and (i think) it's in the interest of community spirit for you to allow it, so I'm hoping you will be lenient. I've deliberately separated this post from the one above in case you feel otherwise and decide to delete - that way you can just get rid of this reply and leave the one that doesn't commit any crimes against the forum. I dont know who to message, otherwise id have asked permission. As mentioned above, my LE wheels, like so many others before me, went a bit wonky. I was lucky enough to find a thread on here from a guy who had the same issue and swapped his wheels out. Many years of happy motoring later, i had put the best four wheels of the eight i had on the car, and one buckled. The others were stolen off the drive and a saw some new shape ones on ebay so off i went and bought them. I therefore have four (largely kerbed, it must be said) original LE wheels, one with a good tyre, three with either heavily worn and in one case i think illegal tyre. They are no good to me, i put them on ebay for collection only, and no interest other than someone in Scotland and i was reluctant to courier them. I figured i'd leave them in the shed and if i either scrapped or p/x'd the car, I would put them back on and flog the nice mint condition ones i have on the car now. The car goes in tomorrow p/x and I'm getting a good price, they know it has the 'new' wheels on and i feel it would be bad faith to swap them now. As such, the LE wheels are going back up for sale. Now I'm not going to register/pay for freedom just to flog these wheels, given I'm no longer a Skoda (or even VAG) driver. On the flip side it could help out an LE owner who just wants some cheap wheels as theirs are buckled. So, perhaps you would be so kind as to let this post stay, so any LE owners can PM me if they want to buy them. If you're feeling really charitable, you might like to let me know it's ok to bump a thread for LE wheels in the sale/wanted section with my details. If not, then i understand. It's a bit of a flyer anyway. The main motivation is the wife wants them gone, and i want to stick a few quid in my back pocket - and let's be honest it's only an LE owner with buckled original wheels who would be interested in these.

Sadly the one I have had since last 5 years the engine went after an issue with the timing belt so found one that was damaged which I bought and repaired and then sold to a friend. Then found this No32 which had front end damage and drivers leg damage, so taken them parts of my old one and used to fix this one and now will be using this hopefully for many years.

I don't really have an opinion on the issue here but just to point out your email address and VIN are viewable in the screenshots, I would blur them out if it were me posting them.

Things get confusing as there are many things at play here... There are a multitude of technologies implemented by the ABS module including (but not limited to) ASR (Anti-Slip Regulation), EDL (Electronic Diff Lock), ESP (Electronic Stability Program) and XDS ("X" Cross Differential System). They all work to achieve slightly different things: - ASR aka traction control, reduces engine power to control wheel spin - EDL uses the brakes to transfer power to wheels with grip (brakes the spinning wheel to transfer power to the non-spinning wheel) - ESP has acceleration sensors to compare the expected and actual car movement, it will use both power modulation and brakes to get the car back on the expected path - XDS (torque vectoring) is an extension of the EDL+ESP systems, it'll use the inside brakes while turning to reduce wheel spin and maximise control/drive through and out of the corner In short, these systems can modulate power and brakes (and haldex where fitted) to maximise grip and control. I would expect these fitted to all models of the MK3 and MK4 Octavia (some MK2 models did not get ESP as standard). Therefore, I'd expect the MK4 4x4 to handle things in a very similar fashion to your MK3 4x4, even more so as the MQB platform hasn't changed much between the two versions. Now on to an LSD, as it turns out, no stock Octavia gets a 'true' LSD fitted... The closest thing to a 'true' mechanical LSD is the VAQ (Vorderachsquersperre) which is an e-LSD. This is a open diff with a clutch pack on one the side to apply various amounts of lock. It's basically the haldex system which is normally used to adjust front/rear power ratios being used between the front wheels instead. It's only been fitted to higher power petrol engines so far. Hopefully that's helped explain some of the technologies and acronyms... Back to the article, I think it's just badly explained. As the TDi vRS 'only' has EDL/ESP/XDS, it's technically correct as it's not an LSD or even e-LSD. The fact that EDL is designed to achieve a similar result, namely transferring power to the wheel with grip, is beside the point

Damn... I nearly had one a couple of years back (‘17).. ‘59 plate TDI with WN prefix if that helps anyone pin it down. It looked good in the pics on eBay... seller gave all the right answers, won the auction... travelled to Reading on a single train ticket and discovered..... it was a dog.. airbag light on (impact sensor according to pocket code reader,) odd alloy (hidden in the pics) badly repaired accident damage on rear wing... bulb fail warning light on but most worryingly low coolant light... which returned within 5 miles of being topped up. 😳 I rejected the car (with a heavy heart) got my deposit back and watched it sell again on eBay. I checked it online a few days ago (have a memory for reg numbers) Looks like it got scrapped - tax and mot both expired late last year. Would have been circa 200k miles. So disappointed I didn’t get the series number off of the seat tags. Interior was nice. Would prefer that to the normal vrs one I have now, and I did love that dark grey colour so much nicer than the silver I have now.