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Latest models go into “ freewheeling “ mode if you lift off the accelerator not just only in ECO mode. If you keep your foot on the pedal lightly it will stay in gear and as you know if more engine braking required using the brake will force a change down , or downshift using paddle. My previous Kodiaq only freewheeled in ECO mode, so small learning curve in new Kodiaq, but certainly helps mpg, never feels out of control, and call me sad, but seeing how far you can travel freewheeling without loosing speed becomes addictive.

VCDS/ODIS Service How to adapt a new battery A little guide I made to help you adapt a new battery to your vehicle VCDS How to adapt a new battery.pdf ODIS Service How to adapt a new battery.pdf

You won't normally loose any coding changes, it's just some values like how many miles since resetting fuel trips and windows one-touch. Clear out codes, do the window reset and you will be golden. You can dispose of old battery at Halfords FOC. And also, yes a shout out to Tanya for being well packaged and fast.

Got to give a shout for Tayna Batteries. Ordered new battery late afternoon yesterday (Fri), and received it at 09:20am today.

The garage replaced your DMF with an SMF, you are now hearing the resultant clatter from the laygear and the free running gears meshed with it. Thats my diagnosis based on what you have said and assuming that you have a 6 speed probably 02M gearbox.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. If you had used a battery charger for the battery when that first started, or better still before that, and not let the battery get so low again you may well have got another couple of years or more out of the battery. From the 2017/11'Owner's Manual'. - I get the **** taken out of me on here for putting that the battery could be too low even if you can start the car and the lights seem bright enough and that a long low slow charge is generally better than a quicker higher faster recharge and just driving the car is often not enough to recharge the battery sufficiently and may even be discharging it more. Rule of thumb is if the battery has been run down slowly over time then the recharge should be as slow as possible and practical, if it was a fast discharge with something like leaving your headlights on when parked then a quicker charge might be OK.

What are you actually inspecting for daily? Perhaps the Fuse Fairies that removed Hobartians fuse?

Thanks guys for your suggestions. I have temporarily carried out a repair using aluminium tape which is both corrosion and heat proof. Made thoroughly sure that it wouldn’t come in contact with the exposed copper of the sensors. Finally chose not to put back in the clip that caused the chafing. The constant trying to regenerate has stopped. Have rerun a scan and no codes coming up. I still have a suspicion that the thermostat is not working correctly as it struggles to get to working temp (90 degrees) and will drop back from 90 when idling. Is there a simple way of checking if the thermostat is working correctly either with or without using VCDS??

We had an extended test drive in a Sportline prior to ordering one and whilst the overall ride was very good over the bumps, the road noise from the tyres was quite intrusive. From memory I think the test car was wearing Bridgestone rubber, but other makes may be better of course, or even worse. Anyway, I won't fret as it's the missus's car.

Not sure on the centre caps yet but I’ve already got some (genuine) covers for the wheel nuts, going to wait and see if I can either blag some centre caps from the dealer or wait and see what size they are.

@ErnestoMc Software Train = MSTD_EU_SK_Pxxxx will be MIB1 you have (99.99% sure) MSTD_EU_SK_P6230 MU 0490 is available as an update

Tripped over an Auto Express article on the latest Enyaq VRS Coupe. Shocking tricks being played with real world performance some way behind the brochure headlines.

When you hold down Menu/Setup key for about 10 seconds you enter the engineering menu, the Software Train will tell you what version you have easily.

Start searching the many threads on this subject

You can not change anything about how they have your 2013 TDI which is as a Euro 5 emission car with a DPF, and not a Euro 6. You could remove the engine and fit a Electric Motor & big battery so converting it to an EV. Probably replacing it will be simpler / cheaper. You might get a Petrol car for the money your diesel car is worth.

Thanks for the info, I did go to my local Skoda Dealer parts dept, the guy frowned at first but after a few minutes realised were the part was. He came back with a printed sheet and said Skoda only do the whole gear change (lever, mechanism in car and cables) as an assembly and costing in the region of £350. i have looked at fleabay and as you say I could be buying similar or even worse. I have managed to get new cable ends and adjusted the system. However I am now struggling to select 6th gear so may have more fettling to do. It is a shame someone doesn’t do a overhaul kit but I suppose there isn’t much demand.

Maybe someone with the same engine could put up a video for comparison?

I have found a local dealer who will copy the key and clone the codes to an after market 3 button key in Bristol. The costs seem to range from 150 to 180 for an after market key. As for complaints I have spoken to customer services via Twitter and well its fair to say they basically just pass on my messages. I did call them out and ask is it not there job to ensure these retailers meet the standards of Skoda. To which they replied: We apologise that you have not yet received any feedback to your question. I apologise for your experience with the retailer, this is not how we wish to hear that our customer's have been treated. To answer your question about our role: At Customer Services we: - Aim to provide customers with the most efficient assistance and resolutions where possible. - We are not financially regulated at Customer Services, and thus are unable to help customer's with any financial related matters such as, quotes, discounts or goodwill, but will transfer them to the relevant teams. - We do not have access to the Vehicle Management Systems to any of our franchised retailer's as they are run independently. - We help with customer complaints and escalate them where needs be to an executive team who can expedite any claims or dissatisfaction from customer's which are beyond our expertise to influence the outcomes which would otherwise demand the action or confirmation from the executives.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Good points. 👍 My bad wording, I'll edit it, I'd expect/hope the 'Owner's Manual' or charger instructions would be consulted to check and confirm the charging requirements.

Soo this is a bit of a first world problem... I was at a petrol station recently and as I exited the car, a notification popped up asking if I wanted to instal new software. This happens quite often on the car and is normally a background operation that doesn't interior with normal operations. So I figured why not, clicked "yes" and started to refill the tank. A few minutes later I jumped back in the car and pressed 'start' Nothing! Tried several times and nothing! Had I bricked the car? Looking at the centre display it said "23%" and I figured I'd just stop the update and move the car to the jet wash where it could carry on installing the mystery software. Nope! That doesn't work, can't cancel the update. What!!!??? After a couple more minutes of fiddling around I returned to the cashier with my head hung low and declared "the car at pump number 5 will be there for the next 20 minutes or so and won't start until it's finished its software update". I got a look of 'well it's a BMW isn't it!' and a few people rolled their eyes at me. I laughed, partly out of embarrassment and partly at the absurdity of the situation. Around 20 minutes later (I'd guessed about right) the car fired up as usual and I was back to normal....or least mostly back to normal, as many of the settings I had installed had been reset to default.

@varooom don't be so modest, I started it but as I'm quite rarely here (typically when somebody pings me) you make most of this job now

Semantics i know... but DONT put the charger on the battery directly. Put the positive on the positive terminal and the negative on the bulkhead of the car behind the battery. That way the car also knows how charged/discharged the battery is and you dont bypass the system.

Finally got it fixed. A replacement door loom was the answer. The old one was broken in many places so I got a new one. I will be repairing the old one as a backup with earphone wire which is a LOT more bendy. Looks like the original was old Post Office Telephone wire!

Hi A worn driveshaft joint will tend to make more noise the more torque it's being asked to handle, so lower gears and more throttle are the severest test. The traditional method was to open the window and listen for ticking/knocking while you drive round (slowly) on full lock so as to exercise the outer joint through a large angle It doesn't take much free play to give noises, probably not enough slack to detect with the car up on ramps and the driveshaft grasped by hand.

Just joined in the hopes that 1) you lovely lot might share your experiences and advice and 2) I might be able to help a fellow Skoda driver

Welcome, hope you have a good time 🤝

Recently joined myself for the same reasons, welcome 👍

Personally… I’d be taking it somewhere else for a second opinion. WITHOUT giving them any prompts about other diagnosis’s. So you’re saying when a new dual mass is fitted the sound goes away? But comes back how long after? If there was a broken tooth on a gear then it would be there all the time…

The ones that have ACT after them or if a AUDI COD / Cylinder on Demand. So 1.4 TSI ACT or 1.4 TFSI COD, or 1.5 TSI ACT / 1.5 COD. As to which Skoda models for the 1.4 TSI ACT's. no idea. ................ I had a Golf 2.0 TDI 115ps 7 speed DSG for a week just recently and it gave amazing economy and was 'Coasting' lots as in everytime my toe was off the accelerator and there was no load on the engine. 75-80 mpg was dead easy to get without hypermileing. It was a bit of a pig from a standing start in D so i put it in S and the thing did not bog down from 1st to 2nd it held the rpm. Then in D or S and with coasting having the car really freewheeling the paddles or the shifter were perfect to just drop a gear or 2 and slow the car rather than touching the accelerator until it was needed, sometimes it was not as once back in 7th it just rolled along. The ACC was great as was the Lane Keep Assist and the Speed Sign reading. VW had it pretty good other than the lack of physical buttons. ................. As to my 2.0 TDI SCR DSG Alhambra used over the A93 & roads Dundee to Nairn or Forfar to Nairn by the B974 / A939 and back the difference could be as 3.5 - 5 miles per gallon sometimes more using 'Coasting' compared to not. The journey times were no different. I only tried without using 'coasting' enabled so that i could compare the difference that could be achieved from the 63 litre tank. The reason it was easy to compare on this route is i did it regularly and in all weathers as long as the roads are open. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/386035-dsg-coasting-in-eco-mode http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/451452-coasting-in-normalsport http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/496954-rev-counter-in-eco-mode http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/470440-coasting-to-save-fuel

Hey guys, Deer has told me i can connect my 2 phones simultaneously and accept calls on them when either rings. Is this true?

It just means they can buy it cheap and sell it dear.

Hi, Yes gearbox input shaft on will remain spinning if you are in neutral with clutch pedal up. The gears on it just won't be engaged with the output. Unless it's very loud, my personal view would be just keep using it and it might never worsen. The only exception to this would be if it's an easy to access gear or bearing from a gearbox side case. Whether this applies to this gearbox I do not know.

That’s a petrol 1.8T, usually only see a diesel with that kind of miles

Prove that. And indeed prove that you weren't doing mostly M8 miles from the South end of the Kamikaze through Charing Cross to Townhead Interchange at rush hour.

You have a PM, but the update will not add smartlink, you need separate process to add the code to activate. I will send you a link to 0480 version via PM

If it was just 'Freewheeling' without it being engineered into the vehicle and type approve & allowed in the legislation /law then it would be an issue. The driver is responsible for their driving and being in control of the vehicle and what they enable and when and where and when safe to do so. It helps if they know what the system in the vehicle they are driving actually does. As it is it came about because 'Those in charge in Europe or those that work for those in charge wanted lower emissions and have allowed kidology to prevail. But Cylinder Deactivation, Cylinder / Turbo on demand, engine stop / start, coasting and the likes can have less fuel used and so less emissions emitted. They are still banning the sale of new Petrol & Diesels in less than a decade. Just now the EV's, Mild Hybrid and PHEV's are allowing manufacturers to get the Low Average C02 figures needed with Partnerships with other manufacturers. VW Group are not building or selling enough of their own cars with Low Emissions. The thing is if you do not want functions do not use them. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/494047-coasting

We found the issue... it was a faulty bonnet switch. Thank you tho 👍

It does make the daily fuse inspection hard work, admittedly.

i keep banging on.....but there r different spring sets for AWD vs FWD, and liftback vs wagon. E10-79 series is for wagons/kombis (3V5) E10-85 series is for liftbacks/hatchbacks (3V3) E10-79-012-03-22 - Superb Kombi 3V5 E10-79-012-04-22 - Superb Kombi 3V5 AWD E10-85-042-02-22 - Superb 3V3 Hatchback E10-85-042-03-22 - Superb 3V3 Hatchback AWD

£140 fitted ? you can buy a new fan for under £50 on Ebay. The intake to the heater fan is below the windscreen under the bonnet. I took the windscreen wipers off my car the other day and removed the panels under them to access the drain duct and I saw the fan heater intake I doubt very much the fan will come out through there. If the rear heated window isn't work I'd check the earth feed wire inside the rubber gaiter on the off side of the tailgate. I had to peel all the foam of the wire to find it was broken. As with the door wiring looms the cable insulation looses it's elasticity and the wire breaks because of all the flexing in the hinge area.

At low revs when pulling away from junctions it sounds like my knees first thing every morning 😂 there is a crackling noise. My old 1.9tdi Touran used to sound like someone rustling a brown paper bag, I suppose it depends on the levels of diesel crud in your intake. I have a spare cleaned intake manifold and ASV assembly to fit when I get chance, I'm hoping that solves the issue.

Bought this Blue Bullet in August 2022 with 32.000 km...... Denmark.

Hopefully any Directors of CARRS SKODA BRIDGWATER will came across this thread or the reviews of their business. Also Skoda UK / VW UK's Brand Director. MATTHEW BOWDEN @ SKODA UK. http://linkedin.com/in/matthewbowden2 Or the Marketing Director KIRSTEN STAGG . http://linkedin.com/in/kirsten-stagg-750a1159/?originalSubdomain=uk http://skoda.co.uk/dealers/carrs-somerset http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/34715-carrs-skoda-bridgwater/page/2 All publicity is good publicity.

Inevitably, a part like that or those 2 will be genuine only supply likely. So your two options are second hand, dismantling market (may also be worn) or new via Skoda / Vag network. A quick google indicated one of the parts is no longer available but may be superseded. Would need the full car detail, year, engine code to look at parts diagram and get a better idea. Or call your local skoda dealer parts department, they will tell you a price to order and you either take it or leave it.... No harm done. If you want to browse some parts diagrams from a source which will let your order LLLParts is not bad. Ordered a few things off them and can be a bit cheaper than dealer. Have to wait a little while for the order, so if it is not urgent.... And I find occasionally they don't offer order for parts that are complete i.e. their listings not entirely complete.... but pretty good source..

If it's a bladed key, you can get thoat part cut by any decent auto locksmith. The immobiliser blanks can be bought online and a decent mechanic will have the kit and knowledge to program it to match your car. If you're near Reading, I can recommend someone who doesn't charge a fortune...

@Phil82 Did the car advert not say '2 keys'? Who is this Dealership or Dealership group? They deserve all the publicity they can get. Let others know what they might expect. As to Customer Service. Or lack of.

Plenty of people on Ebay with the kit to clone the keys immobiliser chip and sync it to the central locking, also sellers of keys cut to a photograph, if you are lucky you might find one that does both cheaply. Beginning of the confinement I paid £40 or £50 to an Albanian to supply, cut and program a key, parked outside what looked like a squat in a dodgy part of London he had taken my key to cut it and I wondered whether he was going straight out the back gate to somewhere else to return later to steal my car that I could no longer start!!! It all ended up fine, he had some programming of the key to do in the vehicle after using my one in the ignition, the kit he used was the best a car thief can buy 🤣 You do not want to go down this route if there is a possibility that an original key could be in the hands of someone dodgy, or should I say dodgier than the dealer who sold you the car.

That is the kind of crap you get with Scotland biggest car dealership group. Skoda Approved Cars with only one key are not priced as ones with 2 keys. Or should not be. Talk with the Dealer Principle. Suggest they get with it. They surely paid cheaply buying in a car with only one key.

Are you asking about the petrol 2.0TSI or the diesel 2.0TDI? I have the petrol Sportline 2.0 TSI DSG 4x4, and find my fuel consumption varies between the mid 30s (for 6 mile trips to the shops using a 50mph dual carriageway and 30 mph urban roads) and the mid 40s when cruising at 70 along quiet motorways on longer journeys. These are measured brim to brim when refilling the tank and not from the instrument panel readings which are invariably around 5% better. My records also show the fuel consumption is worse in winter, but the sure-footedness of the 4x4 system and the ready acceleration for overtaking make it very acceptable to me bearing in mind I'm not driving as many miles each year as I used to. Chris

Have you not checked out Honest John Real MPG. These are real world figures as submitted by readers. https://www.honestjohn.co.uk/realmpg/skoda/karoq-2017 This is the best motoring website around. tom