Leaderboard

Had the carb off this evening for hopefully the final time. Found the High idle problem, one of the springs that holds it closed wasn't seated right. Also checked the idle screw and set it to what was recommended on old forum posts. 5 and 5/8 turns from lightly seated. Had it out driving and it's finally running decent. NCT next Saturday. Since the Monte is temporarily out of action and I couldn't get the vrs sorted it seems like I'll be relying on this to get into work and back this week.

It’s looks like now would be a good time to order a new Karoq, spot the typo… This is currently on the Škoda (UK) website.

Lovely at Keddlestone Hall earlier, although rained just as we were leaving

Latest Updated Speedcams - December, 2022. It's been a long while but at last here's the latest update of my customised version of EUR Speedcams ( December, 2022). They consist of the full EUROPE speed cameras which I've split up into four consolidated poi categories i.e. Fixed Speedcams, Average Speedcams, Variable Speedcams and Redlight Speedcams. They come supplied with my own preferred personal choice of icons, shown below, to match each of the speedcam categories. Remember to Install them as I explained in the first post in this thread i.e. after extracting the zip file remember to open the newly extracted folder and place only the PersonalPOI folder and metainfo2.txt file onto your sd card ( Please Note: a usb stick will not work! ). Also, please remember to select/tick the relevant newly added poi categories and the poi audible warning alert in your infotainment map menu settings after performing the update or they will not display on your map or audibly alert you. Hope you all enjoy them! EUR Speedcams December, 2022.zip *** A brief update*** For all those who have asked - I am still continuing to update these files but since the Covid situation I have found it difficult to get hold of a good FREE reliable updated database. I continually regularly check the forums and when I come across a suitable database I use some software to check the cameras in my area before I decide whether to convert and compile them as it does take a bit of time and effort to accomplish this. For instance, some average speedcams were installed about 3 years ago in my area but no database has yet reflected this change. It's therefore been pointless doing any updates. Thankfully, this new updated database has finally recognised them so perhaps things are starting to get back to normal. Rest assured though these files will be updated as and when I come across any further suitable databases.

Hello David, at the age of your vehicle, I doubt that any warranty provider will be able to supply a reasonably priced policy that will be able to cover your concerns. Given the likely exclusions in any policy T&Cs, I feel you may be better to save any premiums you would pay against the day you need it for repairs.

As a completely unscientific test, I will change my battery next week when it arrives & I'll keep an eye on how long it takes StopStart to work again. After charging my current battery with an AGM charger it took quite a long time even during the summer before StopStart was active again but this is perhaps because of the state of the old battery. Sitting on the driveway for months on end during the last 2 years weren't kind on it....

@J.R. - have a google for PENS fault protection. Just for example: https://www.romatech.co.uk/blog/page/view/ev_charging_pen_fault_earth_rod edit: Second link that's pretty clear to me: https://www.mylights.co.uk/images/pdf/TruePEN-Explain-Doc.pdf

A few from yesterday's visit to Attenborough nature reserve.........

Hello all Its a couple weeks later and I have changed the thermostat. Its a **** job to be plain and honest. Took me 3 hours in the end but I am a HGV technician and do not touch cars unless mine needs work. If you have limited mechanical experience I recommend chucking it into the garage rather than attempting this on the driveway. Either way the car now sits happily at 90*c and my heater is able to melt my face off. The odd regens have stopped aswell which is a bonus.

After the Conti All Season tyres were fitted on Tuesday, the tyres were so disgusting being covered in fitting lube, I decided to clean car for the first time in two months yesterday. So Tyres first, using Gyeon Q2M Tire Cleaner. Wheels next; pressure washed to remove the light brake dust, then cleaned the alloys using two buckets filled with filtered water and Poorboys Superslick, using a noodle glove and EZ wheel brush. Then I Snowfoamed the entire car - twice - with a medium pressure wash down in between. Then I shampooed with Car-Chems 1900:1 Pure which, if you haven’t used it, is the slipperiness shampoo you’ll find and, at 15ml to 25litres, it lasts and lasts. I used a Race Glaze filter on the final rinse, dried down using my pet drier (just as good as the very expensive yet remarkably similar dedicated “car” units!) and fluffy microfibres and finally I topped-up the TW Graphene Wax on the bonnet, door tops and boot-lid. Unfortunately I was too cold, in too much pain wiv me poor ol’ back, cold to the bone and knackered to do the roof and doors and to dress the tyres. Still three hours well spent and it looks much better for it.

I know the damage was done to my car during the summer of 2021, working from home & within walking distance to the schools meant long periods of time without use & proper driving to keep the battery charged. 6-9 months of short & infrequent journeys. (also pretty bad on the brake discs as well) When the winter hit, the battery performance had quite obviously deteriorated & I eventually bought a Bosch AGM charger to top up the battery the weeks I wasnt using it. Basically I've got to the point that in the winter (~0° overnight here currently) it needs charging (or keeping warmer in the garage) if its left for more than 3 or 4 days without proper driving otherwise it wont start (or will just start). Im back to driving ~80miles a day but even this is not enough with the current battery to enable StopStart anymore... After getting stuck at a filling station yesterday as the battery couldnt even start a warm engine I eventually decided to bite the bullet & buy a new battery.

The keyfob transmitter will transmit the lock/unlock signal at a fixed signal strength, if too far away from the receiver unit, it (the receiver) will simply not operate. Longer operation time of the transmitter keypress is likely to shorten fob battery life.

You've done the right thing, but it should be unnecessary for the faults you've already raised. Which is very much the wrong thing for the service mangler (sic) to have done. If you haven't already done so, ask him to put this request in writing, so that you can produce it in court if required.

Yes assuming that the cable is 6mm T + E which it looks to be and that it is correctly wired and protected upstream at the fuseboard which we can't see.

Thats just a 240v type industrial socket protected by 40A RCD, used for larger welders and 240v equipment

Not sure on the noise thing it sounds normal, they aren’t the quietest engines with the bonnet up. Give it back, you don’t like the noise, it only has one key and they won’t help you. Exercise your right to return it, they’ll start doing something then.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. @chimaera On my wife's 2015 Fabia (from the VW confusingly called 'Operating Instructions') Owner's Manual / Driver's Handbook.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. (I was still typing as you posted.) You may well be right as I don't know the OP's model but using the keyblade on my wife's 2015 Fabia set the alarm off for her and when I tried later with the keyblade. Now originally we may both have initially set the alarm off by turning the keyblade in the wrong direction by habit, I don't know as I quickly had to stop it as it was at night and obviously now is too early in the morning to try again going the correct way (if I remembered the correct way as its arse-about-face to my mind). I'll try later if I remember.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Hi, welcome, no problem but you have posted in the wrong forum, and less likely to be seen here by the general site population. You don't say what model you have but as my wife done exactly the same the other day all is fresh in my mind. Yes the alarm sounds and is noisy if you open the car with the keyblade (ETA: well it did for us and the same on a neighbour's car that only has a spare keyblade) but if you quickly put the keyblade in the ignition and turn it on your ears will thank you as will others around. The keyblade should open the door - unless your model operates different to my wife's but you may have been turning the keyblade in the wrong direction, VW go the opposite way to what I'd expect. Up to you if you carry a spare fob battery and small Xmas cracker screwdriver but it would be best to change the battery before it gets too low and to use the fob when you are near the car rather than a long way off (as I used to have to remind my wife). On my wife's fob there is a little red light on it so you can see if the fob is at least transmitting. Are you sure its a CR2025 (20mm wide by 2.5mm deep), I think that's what I put in my wife's fob. As far as I know the spare key without remote does not turn on or off the alarm, I can't remember if the alarms can be disabled (other than turning off interior (and tilt for towing?) For better answers than Google and me consult your Owner's Manual, read it and you will know a lot more about your car and its functions and odd VW ideas. If you don't have the paper printed copy or if you prefer you can usually download a pdf copy from the following link. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Do check in the Owner's Manual if the fob needs synchronising after replacing the fob battery (yours may not but I do not know, best to check). You are best posting in the forum for your model (and mark or year) but if you say what you have got I or others can direct you (I am just an ordinary poster) or you can find it for yourself, I'm guessing you have an older model but I might be wrong. A good tip for you from me is not to let your car battery too low in charge, even if the car starts and the lights seem bright enough your car battery could still be too low and need charging and depending on your use just driving the car may not be sufficient to properly recharge the battery particularly this time of year. Good luck.

So, first thing: JR RS is absolutely right. There are two Eibach Pro-Kits for the Superb, one for the liftback and one for the wagon, with the numbers as he says. I bought the wagon version (for my liftback), despite the retailer saying it was specifically for the lift back. So something to be aware of. The rear springs on the wagon version are 5mm higher than the front springs. However, that mistake turned out to be a blessing, at least for my tastes. (All subsequent measurements in my post are hub to guard) The Superb AWD standard ride height is 380mm, both front and rear. A major issue in my eyes is that the body shape design, when both front and rear ride heights are the same, has a very definite 'nose-down' stance and the back end of the vehicle looks like it's sticking up in the air. If you allow your eye to follow the bottom sill line between the front and rear wheels, it is not level with the ground, with a pronounced slant towards the front. This is a design aesthetic by the Skoda designers and it may not bother some people, but it is something I have never liked. I prefer a car to have a flatter stance. The front springs (F11-85-042-03-FA) in the Pro-Kit deliver a front height of 350mm. The rear springs from the Pro-Kit delivers also 350mm for the lift back or 355mm if you buy the wagon version. In my opinion, 350mm at the front is too aggressive. At least here in SA, crossing spoon drains and even getting up some ramps, it is very difficult to avoid scraping the front underside of the vehicle. I realise this is a personal view and many others may really like that ride height, and that's perfectly fine. I don't believe it fully suits this type of vehicle and it certainly has practicality issues. As I said earlier I also mixed this with wagon springs (on my liftback, because I made the mistake of buying the wrong set, d'oh!), so the rear was sitting at 355mm, and just further accentuating the nose-down, bum-up stance of the vehicle overall. However, I actually really like the rear ride height of the vehicle with those rear springs and I am glad I didn't get the correct kit, as I think 355mm (rather than 350mm) looks perfect. Again, personal opinion. After contacting Eibach Australia and discussing it, I resolved this by fitting revised front springs (F11-85-043-02-FA) which have been discussed in the forum here. I left the existing Eibach rear springs in place. This has raised the front to 370mm. The rear remains at 355mm. I am now happy with the result as it achieves two outcomes: first the front definitely has more clearance and is more practical to drive in everyday situations. Second it has removed the pronounced nose-down stance the vehicle had before and made it sit flatter overall (no more rear end sticking up). Handling changes are almost imperceptible at speed and slightly more compliant over speed humps at slow speed. The gap between tyre and guard is now slightly wider on the front compared to the rear which may play with some people's OCD. But as you can see from the pic above, you really have to be a train spotter to notice and I happily take that given the vehicle now sits flatter in stance overall. As MartiniB states above, you can order separately rather than as a kit, and in hindsight I would have done that from the start.

Sorry to hear you caught COVID, not what you need with this to deal with. That car is seriously chomping on the oil, and it's the oil itself that is source of the oil ash material that cannot be burnt off. Your local VAG specialist is bang on, but sadly driving the car to clean exhaust is now practically an impossible task, the oil will just keep clogging up the work's.

Hi A worn driveshaft joint will tend to make more noise the more torque it's being asked to handle, so lower gears and more throttle are the severest test. The traditional method was to open the window and listen for ticking/knocking while you drive round (slowly) on full lock so as to exercise the outer joint through a large angle It doesn't take much free play to give noises, probably not enough slack to detect with the car up on ramps and the driveshaft grasped by hand.

It's frowned upon to install EV charger directly to this type of socket. Reason being unless you have an earthing rod, earthing protection will not be insufficient. However, this is the cheapest (don't do this, no O-PEN fault protection!) way for you to get 7 kW charging, just buy those 2 and hang it on the wall. Compatible with all Type 2 cars (all today's EV except very early Leaf and a few other early EV's) https://shop.tesla.com/en_gb/product/mobile-connector https://shop.tesla.com/en_gb/product/blue-adapter---16a_32a- Have a look at install guide for podpoint. I think it will be straight forward install for you, considering you already have Type A RCBO, all other required protection are built-in to UK market (eg. not Tesla) charge points. https://s3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/podpoint-website/PP-D-130012-15-Solo-Smart-Charger-Install-Guide-1.pdf So Mr Sparky will need to ensure up-stream wiring is okay, remove this 32A commando unit, fit a new mini-fuse-box with similar Type A RCBO, wire up the new charge point. Highly recommend you only choose charge point for UK market: Podpoint, Indra smart pro, Zappi, Ohme pro,

Hey came across this problem with a mates car roughly the same milage it was a Mk 2 1.9 TDI, after many trips to a garage fault was still there, had a mobile guy have a look at it and it was the wiring loom for the injectors that was at fault, garage wanted silly money to fix it but he bought a used loom from a breakers and had it fitted by this mobile mechanic car is now ok, we checked the loom but could not find any break or rubbing but it was that as car is now ok, don't know if this will help but worth a try

I've just seen this thread. Having both a Yeti 150 TDI and a Karoq 190 TDI, I have to disagree. Also, I'm reminded of this because snow is on the way. You can't handbrake turn the Karoq whereas the Yeti spins round very nicely on the handbrake; especially in the snow. 😁

Ah, thanks for clarifying. That explains why it won't fit. No sign of anything other than OEM then, which is a bit of a disappointment. I wonder why there was need to change with the facelift?

Not a good time with only a one pound and fifty pence deposit contribution!

Told you I was thick! 🙄

? How many miles has it done? Probably best stick with them as long as you can get covered, that is If the DSG is covered, so the clutches & MCU & you are having it serviced when due, and if not covered and a wet clutch DSG then just be sure to keep getting it serviced correctly when due. http://insurewithskoda.co.uk/extended-warranty

You will need to hold down the Menu/Setup button for about ten seconds to enter engineering menu with Software Train information. Post up that image.

Thanks guys, if Mr Sparky only needs to disconnect that and move the wire to an EV charger mounted on the wall near it, it should be a straightforward and therefore low cost option

VCDS/ODIS Service - Measuring DPF Lifespan or Soot values A guide I have put together to help you measure find your exhaust DPF lifespan or read in your Soot values VCDS Measuring DPF Lifespan or Soot values.pdf ODIS Service Measuring DPF Lifespan or Soot values.pdf

Kudos to you both then! love finding communities like this with great collaborative users! i'm only a fresh skoda owner but hopefully I can contribute it some way.

Looks like new brochure has been issued 29th November 2022 Range in UK now has 5 specs levels, all specs are DSG not sure what has changed prices now £33,485 to £48,075 (before adding options) https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/5782ef00-768c-43df-8faf-51cba9730287

Seat foams come up on Fleabay quite often, doubt if dealers have them, but there again worth a try, they may have some at the main parts place tucked up a corner somewhere? Trevor

It just means they can buy it cheap and sell it dear.

The cruise control and speed limiter control were on the same stalk on my 2015 Fabia SEL. I agree it looks like a speed limiter control but why it is on a separate stalk I don't know.

The circumference is not the same, because 215/50 has a lower sidewall than 225/50. Sidewall 215*50% = 107.5mm Sidewall 225*50% = 112.5mm

Hello and welcome I used a Rearguards one on my Mk3: https://rgmautomotive.co.uk/product/rgm-abs-rearguard-rbp1314-octavia-v-4-door-4-2020/ Gaz

That sounds like good advice, stay with same type for minimum complication.

I don't think anyone really has any clarity on the situation. Except perhaps amongst the makers of the management modules and their software writers. I don't know any of them unfortunately. I suspect the risks of problems with or damage to the new battery are wildly exaggerated, preying on peoples fears in order to extract revenue for dealerships. Certainly if there's no type change I can't see how anything is risked.

@Vahids @nta16 Remember he is in Switzerland, so he needs there or Germany for example. He does have a Swiss site he can order from. Forget Halfords/Tanya 🤝

These are still turning up. Cheap Elegance here. Shame about the general condition EU56 VZP https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/518162480327205

Hello and welcome maelstrom Gaz

Thanks for your replies. The cog wheel is missing and I haven't been able to find it, I've ordered a new arm through eBay. It looks identical to original but much cheaper than Skoda sourced. £9.14 at the moment from China so not much lost even if doesn't fit.

Both good guesses. So I’m the process of making my MY17 superb sportline seats to the highest spec possible. so that means both front seats will be heated, ventilated, massage, electric and memory. As many will know, most of these things didn’t come on a 2017 superb, let alone on the sportline seats. fair bit of custom work is going into it, next hurdle to tackle is the ventilated mats and seat cushions. but the above is basically - to get the memory version of the passenger seat controls they want £190 for the controls new, or roughly £100 second hand. as I had a right side memory seat controls and a left hand non memory. I stripped the parts from the right module, desoldered everything and flipped the circuit board round, refitted everything in the left hand housing. Then found out the placement of the centre switch is not symmetrical so couldn’t be flipped round, hence having to drill holes straight through the circuit board and use link wires. Everything is secure and I will probably go back over the work with a nicer quality wire but for proof of concept it works as intended. And saves me £100-£190!

I hate the 1.6 TDI CAYA, B and C engine, absolute dog of an engine. I am just rebuilding the ASV in an Octavia 1 L&K, quarter million miles, zero measurable bore or crank wear but head gasket failed due to excessive boost for 20 years, terrible 🤣

I had my previous car, a 2011 MK2 FL Octavia VRS TSI, remapped by Shark, now known as Racingline. I was very pleased with it and it gave me no problems up to when I traded it in at 104k miles. My present car as you can see details of at the bottom of this post, has got a Racingline map on and I am extremely pleased with it. This car was mapped on a rolling road by a VW specialist in Swindon. I am almost certain like me though, after the remap you will need to spend on an uprated clutch to handle the increase in engine torque. If you do spend out on an uprated clutch, have them replace the rear engine oil seal at the same time, as they are a weak point on the VW engine. I sadly had the gearbox input shaft oil seal go shortly after the new Helix clutch and DMF was fitted. It ruined the new DMF and clutch so had to spend out for all the new parts to be replaced again. Loads of money!! So I would have them replace that gearbox oil seal as well, seeing as though they have the gearbox out doing the clutch anyway.