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But you reported an initial decrease in fuel consumption after the cam belt change: If that was the case then any subsequent increase in fuel consumption is likely to be something else but I strongly disagree with the suggestion that faulty preheat plugs will make any difference to the MPG let alone a great difference, maybe, just maybe in the first 30 seconds after a cold start but not thereafter. But for the above a drop in fuel economy after a cam belt change is indicative of them incorrectly setting the cam timing, I'm not sure if your engine will report "Torsion Value" in VCDS but that is a good way to check, otherwise its down to looking at the timing marks, or checking the inlet and exhaust valve clearances to either side of TDC on the firing stroke.

It's a typo. No more, no less. Find some joy in your lives guys.

If changing from a dying battery to one of the same type and Ah, there will be no perceptible impact on the cars electronics. The battery management system will work out that the (new) battery responds to charge slightly differently and will alter the charge parameters to suit over a period of time. There is no absolute necessity to recode the battery. On the other hand, if changing battery technology (from EFB to AGM, say) or putting in a battery with significantly different Ah capacity, then coding in the battery is advised. There is a map of VCDS users and someone local will be happy to help for a few beer tokens.

When I was an apprentice mechanic we were taught to always disconnect earth lead first and reconnect it last. The rationale was that it reduced the risk of shorting out the positive terminal directly to earth through your spanner either accidentally or carelessly. It is possible to weld a spanner to a decent bare metal earth like an engine and then explode the battery.

Neither mention PENS fault protection so yes, I'd expect both to carry a risk of electrocution in that circumstance. They probably count as portable appliances so are subject to different regs to a permanent wired EV charger. Personally, I wouldn't worry too much in a dry garage, it's not uncommon to find other metal bodied appliances like fridges or tumble driers in that area. If there is a power cut, make sure you unplug the charger from the wall first using only plastic parts

Good chance like most that dont follow the correct procedure they didnt run the manufacturers vent coolant routine which purges all air from the system and after your drive that air bubble has finally released and hence the need for 2 extra litres. Im not saying you do or dont have mpg issues. But glowplugs will make little to no difference to mpg... at all. Now if you have flat spots and a lack of power then id be asking for the timing to be rechecked NOW. If your timing is slightly out then fine they can correct it, but if your pulley has slipped then it will only slip further... just me airing on the side of caution but id be wanting the timing rechecked, its not a massive job for the garage.

Some will plug in a device into the cigarette lighter to keep the memory 'alive' If you don't do this, then you will just need to let the car 'relearn' some basic settings like windows one-touch closing, memory seats if fitted... basically nothing that is too hard to fix in a few minutes. If you swap battery without any plug in support, like me... then you will have a dash like an Xmas tree until you turn steering wheel full lock to the left/right (and you may need to drive 100m+) The car will store no end of fault codes because of the lack of power, but nothing that will keep a warning on the dash permanently (unless it was already there) So you can plug in a diagnostic tool to clear the faults, but as mentioned you won't visibly see them after swap.

Latest Updated Speedcams - December, 2022. It's been a long while but at last here's the latest update of my customised version of EUR Speedcams ( December, 2022). They consist of the full EUROPE speed cameras which I've split up into four consolidated poi categories i.e. Fixed Speedcams, Average Speedcams, Variable Speedcams and Redlight Speedcams. They come supplied with my own preferred personal choice of icons, shown below, to match each of the speedcam categories. Remember to Install them as I explained in the first post in this thread i.e. after extracting the zip file remember to open the newly extracted folder and place only the PersonalPOI folder and metainfo2.txt file onto your sd card ( Please Note: a usb stick will not work! ). Also, please remember to select/tick the relevant newly added poi categories and the poi audible warning alert in your infotainment map menu settings after performing the update or they will not display on your map or audibly alert you. Hope you all enjoy them! EUR Speedcams December, 2022.zip *** A brief update*** For all those who have asked - I am still continuing to update these files but since the Covid situation I have found it difficult to get hold of a good FREE reliable updated database. I continually regularly check the forums and when I come across a suitable database I use some software to check the cameras in my area before I decide whether to convert and compile them as it does take a bit of time and effort to accomplish this. For instance, some average speedcams were installed about 3 years ago in my area but no database has yet reflected this change. It's therefore been pointless doing any updates. Thankfully, this new updated database has finally recognised them so perhaps things are starting to get back to normal. Rest assured though these files will be updated as and when I come across any further suitable databases.

Been busy dealing with planning to get a project off the ground. Just completed the plans for ‘phase 2’ a new build on a brown field site. A before and after below. My original shot, though credit to the architect for the CGI work.

Wise move re the tank, hopefully it's just debris and not severe internal corrosion. Do you think the filter was clogged or that some debris got through the element to the carburettor? I hope its the former. Is the fuel line upstream of the filter plastic or does it have some metal piping? If the latter that is where I would now be looking, I have spent far too many hours removing and cleaning the float chamber needle valve or idle jets from corroded fuel lines upstream of the filter on a couple of vehicles.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. That's what is in the Owner's Manual. Window is better fully closed as they may need a reset but it's not vital, door being open is more electric to the spark so again better closed but not vital and if it eases your mind then do one or both. Always a good idea to make sure you or nobody else or the keys are locked in the car. I often make the mistake of offering too much information so that it can then be open to more question or misunderstanding, as I have here, which is why referring to the instructions (owner's Manual, instruction notes or booklets) is often better, if anyone is too lazy or Billy-Big-B*ll*cks to read instructions tough on them. Link for Owner's Manuals, so no excuses. 😄 - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

Taken from a MIB3 TPI (Technical Product Information) sheet The radio-navigation system must work correctly. If the software update cannot be performed because the device repeatedly switches on and off again (reset loop), the device has to be replaced according to the ⇒ repair manual/parts catalogue. However, a single reset does not justify replacement of the device. Note that in the case of replacement of the device the costs cannot be accounted on this TPI. The party line is clear, a single fail/reboot is not enough... if yours has been doing it regularly and you have complained and took it back for exactly this... they shouldn't have a leg to stand on. Fingers crossed you get somewhere with Skoda UK. 🤞

You can take a read here of the official process here... too long; didn't read: In short, if you are replacing an EFB with an EFB or AGM with AGM of very similar Ah capacity, then no you should get away without needing diagnostic tool. If you change from one battery type to another, then absolutely get it adapted! EDIT: Better add the obvious warning here, even if I am teaching you to suck eggs. Always remove the negative clamp from from the battery terminal first, then positive after. Refitting is the reverse, Positive goes on first, then negative, be brave, the bugger will spark and you may brick it (even though I know it is coming, I hate it) This is AFAIK the correct way, or at least how I do it, happily to be corrected. I make sure to keep the driver door open, or window down just in case, and make sure key is in pocket and not possibly going to be locked inside the car.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I'd believe you, I would have a mild panic first and think later. I still jump at sparks, when I was very young I got an electric shock from messing around with a radiogram (look it up) that taught me to be careful. That is always my attitude, I loathed doing anything on my cars I don't need to and have had enough minor roadside repairs and breakdown call outs and recoveries to last me three lifetimes having owned old British/English cars for decades. The car batteries have always been more important that most drivers realise but it's even more so the newer the modern car with VW type computer programs and car owners using the car as a battery on wheels for all the electrics they want to use, whilst the car is driven, static or parked up. I can't stand a car that won't at least start so I like the car battery to be in reasonable condition and with the least work and hassle from me so I like a good battery from the start as that makes the rest easier. I broke my own rule of not changing the car battery before required with my wife's car as she hasn't the time or patience for it not always being available at anytime and I changed the battery quite early to save me any hassle of any sort, plus my wife has been with me on many of those three lifetimes of minor roadside repairs and breakdown call outs and recoveries. I thought you meant 100 metres but better to check than assume.

Well that didn't last long Hopped in it today, got to the bottom of my hill and it ran like absolute ****. Bad enough that I couldn't take it to work as planned. Dropped the fuel filter on advise from someone and... Already clogged. Thankfully I have a spare on hand and it is an easy job. This is what came out of the filter. Plenty of fresh fuel in it. May need to drop the tank sooner rather than later. Seems otherwise fine happily. My guess is that a chunk of gunk got into it this morning and caused it to run like ****. It ran beautiful just last night.

The part number of 7P0 915 105 is replaced by 000 915 105CC which is same size, AGM and has a new Ah rating of 70Ah It is the same that I have fitted now to my own car (before and after!) I stuck with the Varta, as when you use parts program, the 000 915 105CC is Varta branded. Some additional reading should you have access to VCDS via someone.

Diagnostic without the engine started will pull a fair bit of power from the battery, though anything under 12V does not seem either right or good, but you should measure with multimeter not diagnostic tool you used of course. Once you have charged battery to full capacity, only measure it's Voltage after it has rested for a minimum of 2hr, ideally overnight if you can. Best of luck with your swap.

Are those readings from your ODB11 device? FYI: When I got my new AGM a few months back, I fitted to the car and charged it... it took several hours to finish the full cycle (8-9hrs iirc) You might help it's lifespan by giving it a proper charge with your charger, just remember to only put the positive on the battery terminal, and then negative clamp has to go on the car chassis in the designated spot.

Reading that gone are the days of Italian tuneups to unclog things. I suppose they can't be seen to promote aggressive C02 producing driving along with advancements in technology ensuring it should be part of standard day to day driving of the car. I drive like a granny 90% of the time at the moment, combination of commuting and trying to save money after having a baby. Although I do try and go for a spirited drive on the local B roads at least once in awhile to justify owning a VRS.

Your logic is spot on, thanks for steering my thought process. Having gone to evening class a couple of decades back to study for and then sit the IEE 16th Edition I can tell you that logic and understanding was not on the menu for 95% of the employed electricians who made up the rest of the class and who had already failed the exam several times. An "Open Book" exam where the answers to all the questions are contained within the wiring regs which you have with you to consult, all it is actually doing is to prove that you know how to read a book, and use the index to find the relevant section that you need, the questions are multiple choice, 4 answers, the pass mark is only 60%, this means for every question that you know you have answered correctly you can guess another and will end up with a 62% pass mark. I had only attended maybe 4 or 5 of the 26 classes after working out what the deal was, I was using the book each day when working so did my learning that way, the exam was 2.5 hours and you could leave after 1 hr 15 minutes, I had finished the paper after 35 minutes, spent another 10 going through checking my answers and then twiddled my thumbs before leaving at the appointed time. The others had arranged to meet in the pub after the exam so I waited for them, one said to me "I don't blame you for walking out mate, I would have done the same but having failed it so many times and having probbaly failed again this time if my boss heard I had left early I would be sacked", the others were of the same view, I could not tell them that it was so simple that half an hour was all was needed. Most worked for firms of contracting electricians and the qualified person would sign off their work, they needed to pass so that they could work on jobs alone and sign off the work of others.

Clean the area. Polish / wax the paintwork, body edge and flap edge. Silicone spray the catch if there is one, the hinge if you can and if any available cable then that. Make sure if any electronic catch it is cleaned. Then repeat as the winter goes on. If at any point you need warm water to get the flap open then remember to dry that off before it freezes again.

Cars all prepped again before some freezing weather hits. Tyres checked for pressures, screen wash, anti freeze and oil, brake fluid and autobox level Clean dry rubber mats in. No carpet ones. Windows cleaned and prepped inside and out. Door and hatch seals prepped and a damp trap in the car and boot. Hats, gloves, de-icer ect in cars. Ps. Mirrors set not to auto fold / freeze closed. Fuel filler flap prepped.

My mib3 had similar issues - my dealer brought it in for an update (which worked) but did say that if it didn’t work the next step is to pull it in for new min hardware; which I’d read about on here for unsold Golf 8s. Would have thought the dealer would have suggested - if not suggest it to them (tell them numerous owners on forum have had the same) and if they don’t go along with that then get a second opinion (maybe if someone on here knows a dealer that does suggest it - Allams in Epsom did but hope there are plenty closer who would say the same.

The cable you would carry about in the car will be Type 2 to Type 2 to use on 7 kW and 11 / 22 kW AC so a thicker one. At home if just a 7 kW charger it can be a Type 2 to Type 2 that is not as Heavy Duty that you are using, or the one from the car. (I have only a 7kW on board charging so not a thick cable in the car.)

Is there another dealership other than who you use? Might be worth taking it to them and say “I’m hoping you’ll be better at trying to fix it” might be something they’ll try harder at to keep you a customer going forward. As far as I’m aware if it’s in warranty still you can take it where you like (any Skoda franchise I mean) Have you contacted Skoda directly? If not be worth a shot

A few from yesterday's visit to Attenborough nature reserve.........

This will be the cause of most water leaks into the cabin and it really is a case of seeing is believing! By that, it can be a bit of a shock when you see the mountain of debris, which has accumulated and is causing drainage water to divert into the cabin! It is reasonably straightforward to jack up the car, remove the wheels, insert the axle stands and then remove the wheel arch liners and is a job worth doing every year.

So, first thing: JR RS is absolutely right. There are two Eibach Pro-Kits for the Superb, one for the liftback and one for the wagon, with the numbers as he says. I bought the wagon version (for my liftback), despite the retailer saying it was specifically for the lift back. So something to be aware of. The rear springs on the wagon version are 5mm higher than the front springs. However, that mistake turned out to be a blessing, at least for my tastes. (All subsequent measurements in my post are hub to guard) The Superb AWD standard ride height is 380mm, both front and rear. A major issue in my eyes is that the body shape design, when both front and rear ride heights are the same, has a very definite 'nose-down' stance and the back end of the vehicle looks like it's sticking up in the air. If you allow your eye to follow the bottom sill line between the front and rear wheels, it is not level with the ground, with a pronounced slant towards the front. This is a design aesthetic by the Skoda designers and it may not bother some people, but it is something I have never liked. I prefer a car to have a flatter stance. The front springs (F11-85-042-03-FA) in the Pro-Kit deliver a front height of 350mm. The rear springs from the Pro-Kit delivers also 350mm for the lift back or 355mm if you buy the wagon version. In my opinion, 350mm at the front is too aggressive. At least here in SA, crossing spoon drains and even getting up some ramps, it is very difficult to avoid scraping the front underside of the vehicle. I realise this is a personal view and many others may really like that ride height, and that's perfectly fine. I don't believe it fully suits this type of vehicle and it certainly has practicality issues. As I said earlier I also mixed this with wagon springs (on my liftback, because I made the mistake of buying the wrong set, d'oh!), so the rear was sitting at 355mm, and just further accentuating the nose-down, bum-up stance of the vehicle overall. However, I actually really like the rear ride height of the vehicle with those rear springs and I am glad I didn't get the correct kit, as I think 355mm (rather than 350mm) looks perfect. Again, personal opinion. After contacting Eibach Australia and discussing it, I resolved this by fitting revised front springs (F11-85-043-02-FA) which have been discussed in the forum here. I left the existing Eibach rear springs in place. This has raised the front to 370mm. The rear remains at 355mm. I am now happy with the result as it achieves two outcomes: first the front definitely has more clearance and is more practical to drive in everyday situations. Second it has removed the pronounced nose-down stance the vehicle had before and made it sit flatter overall (no more rear end sticking up). Handling changes are almost imperceptible at speed and slightly more compliant over speed humps at slow speed. The gap between tyre and guard is now slightly wider on the front compared to the rear which may play with some people's OCD. But as you can see from the pic above, you really have to be a train spotter to notice and I happily take that given the vehicle now sits flatter in stance overall. As MartiniB states above, you can order separately rather than as a kit, and in hindsight I would have done that from the start.

Good evening all. It was -2c as I turned the car on this morning at 0710, I was tired, could not see out the drivers side so I did the one thing I shouldn't have....and pop, the cable went and wrapped itself around the motor. I did the same thing in my passat, the second I pushed the switch I knew I was an idiot. Again. Having spent 2.5 hours putting a new regulator in years ago, purchasing a riveter for the speaker and swearing at the car constantly I decided to simply call the local indy, new one from Skoda going in at £126 + vat on the 22nd. At least it broke whilst up not down! The moral is, if its freezing out and you park 50ft from the North Atlantic, DO NOT push that switch people, resist all temptation. Moron.

What is your rationale for doing it in that, or indeed any order? I completely agree with the comment regarding the sparking.

In the future you want to go to The Victoria Garage in Maud for proper mechanics to do a proper job. Skoda techs with all the gear and more than ideas.

TBH, I don't know how to answer to that... I can only hope you didn't get the point I was making.

You shouldn’t’ve waited 2.5 years but you know that. You should construct an email, giving a précis of the issue, then in bullet point form, giving the dates and numbers of loss of use days you have experienced; ignore courtesy cars etc. because they are not the car you paid to drive. Call SUK and ask to speak to their Customer Quality Manager, Emmaline Bruce (how you “manage” the “quality” of “customers” I really don’t know!). Don’t take no for an answer, as they’re masters of dodging, delaying and deflecting. When you get to speak to her, or their nominated subordinate, follow-up with the email, including Bruce, and time bound it for a response with a solution (you want a new unit of course) so 5 working days should suffice.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/PLMAPxJmKUMp7Jgs5

Take a picture of the whole top of the battery if you can, I can check what if any changes have been made and point you at suitable replacement.

Thanks all for the help and advice. Think I'm going to find a battery with exactly the same serial numbers and descriptions etc as the one currently in the car and then swap it out myself in a few minutes. I can always call the mechanic with his diagnostic gadget to reset everything if it all goes wrong I suppose 🙂 Cheers and have a great week everyone UF

Should be able to see it (or not if not fitted) via BCM measuring blocks I think, as it wires into that.

Yes

Fitted new battery this morning and none of my settings were lost. Coded in no problem, OBD11 found 5 faults after fitting but all cleared ok. However it was also reporting that battery was reading 14.3 when engine running but dropping to 11.4 when engine not running. Thought that may have been cause battery charging system was adjusting to new battery, so went up the motorway on 25 round trip run. Same problem when finished and checked again. Any ideas? When I spoke to them regarding size of battery they said because it was friday afternoon, I probably wouldln't get it til Monday, so well pleased. A friend has a tool you plug into the diangnostic port and connect to another battery. This is supposed to save all your settings. I don't have the sliding roof or sunscreen, so if I lose the settings its not a difficult job to reset them. I was more concerned about losing changes I'd made with my OBDeleven.

@Kenny R I was then making such a list! Here are some numbers to go with the above... For Stopping: The vehicle is stationary (speed = 0 km/h). The engine speed is below 1200 rpm. The coolant temperature is between 25 °C and 100 °C. The brake pressure is greater than 55 kPa (550 mbar). The energy consumption calculated before "engine off" and needed in order to restart the engine can be supplied by the battery (start voltage prediction). The battery temperature is greater than or equal to -1 °C and less than 55 °C. The demand on the air conditioning by the occupants is not too high. The difference between the specified and actual vent temperature is below 8 °C. The diesel particle filter is not in the regeneration mode. For Starting: The diesel particle fi lter is not in the regeneration mode. The engine hood is closed. The driver's door is closed. The clutch pedal is operated. The gear lever is in neutral position. For automatic Start due to change of conditions: The vehicle starts to roll on a steep road so that braking and steering assistance is required. If the vehicle exceeds the speed of 3 km/h, the START-STOP system starts the engine automatically. The coolant temperature is no longer between 25 °C and 100 °C. Insufficient pressure in the brake system. The charge status of the battery is no longer sufficent. Operating the Defrost button for the windscreen. Increasing the fan speed inside the vehicle by more than four stages. Increasing the heating or cooling requirement of the air conditioning system (the difference of the specified/actual vent temperature is greater than 12 °C).

Thank you, anyway! Happy winter holidays!!

No idea what comes with TBH, I am just starting out on the research phase of how viable is an EV for me at the minute. Or if it does come with cable, what will the other end fit ? Was looking at possibly a Cupra Born, but like I say early on in the viability stage ATM.

The intent wasn't to take power from the socket, more to see if the wiring to the socket could be used (remove socket and put charger there) or if It would need to be fully re- wired. Either way it should be fairly straightforward for Mr. Sparky as the mains fusebox is in the garage

If anyone thinks £1,5000 is the same as £15k then perhaps they need to visit Specsavers.

@J.R. - have a google for PENS fault protection. Just for example: https://www.romatech.co.uk/blog/page/view/ev_charging_pen_fault_earth_rod edit: Second link that's pretty clear to me: https://www.mylights.co.uk/images/pdf/TruePEN-Explain-Doc.pdf

I had them fitted to 16" Audi A3 alloys on my old Mk5 Golf. I wasn't particularly impressed by them. The Golf was mapped to 210 bhp and 330 lbs-ft and on the Hankooks it was very easy to overcome the traction control, resulting in massive wheelspin. On snow and ice, they weren't a patch on the Dunlop D4 Winter Sport and D5 Winter Sport which I've run on three VW Tiguans and our current Karoq over the years nor as good as the Michelin CrossContact + currently fitted to my Yeti.

Hello all Its a couple weeks later and I have changed the thermostat. Its a **** job to be plain and honest. Took me 3 hours in the end but I am a HGV technician and do not touch cars unless mine needs work. If you have limited mechanical experience I recommend chucking it into the garage rather than attempting this on the driveway. Either way the car now sits happily at 90*c and my heater is able to melt my face off. The odd regens have stopped aswell which is a bonus.

Many thanks - much appreciated. As usual, not at home, so will download and install in a couple of days.

Thanks for the update on your absence Bigade....and thanks again for the speedcam update👌

My dealer emailed me today to let me know that the order is accepted by the factory. It was accepted originally as an MY22 car but they’ve now reaccepted it as MY23 Have asked what it means mentioning that I can see from on there that people who’ve ordered phevs in mid-21 still don’t have theirs