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If you remove the rear light clusters from your Fabia it will become very obvious that you won't get a round peg into that square hole!

Enjoying a section of the SWC path in glorious weather just a couple of short months back. Looking along Perran Sands towards Perranporth.

I try to avoid using my car for silly short journeys - like less than a mile to my nearest Tesco. Today was the other extreme. A round trip of over 400 miles, mostly M74 and M6. Was a beautiful day, nice and dry with some sunshine thrown in too. Could have been miserable at this time of year. Probably the most comfortable day in a car ever. No big surprise, though I think my passenger was pleasantly surprised. Plugged in Radio Paradise and hit the cruise at a GPS 70mph. Relieved to see 40 mpg at the end of the day. I can’t see past a Kodiaq for it’s all round capabilities.

Off street parking for EV's in Dundee. http://bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-tayside-central-63877236

Good evening all. It was -2c as I turned the car on this morning at 0710, I was tired, could not see out the drivers side so I did the one thing I shouldn't have....and pop, the cable went and wrapped itself around the motor. I did the same thing in my passat, the second I pushed the switch I knew I was an idiot. Again. Having spent 2.5 hours putting a new regulator in years ago, purchasing a riveter for the speaker and swearing at the car constantly I decided to simply call the local indy, new one from Skoda going in at £126 + vat on the 22nd. At least it broke whilst up not down! The moral is, if its freezing out and you park 50ft from the North Atlantic, DO NOT push that switch people, resist all temptation. Moron.

Anything's possible. How are your fabrication skills 🤣

Have you got the 16 or 17 inch tyres / wheels? It happens on the inside edge of the rear tyres. The leading edge is higher than the trailing edge of the tread blocks. If you swap the rear tyres from side to side you will be going up the saw tooth edge. This can make the worn bearing like rumble go. Long term rotate your tyres and always fit new tyres to the rear. If the fronts are the worn pair then move the rears diagonally to the front. Thanks, AG Falco

Well front and rear springs now replaced. A right kerfuffle as usual, with rusted nuts etc. Well that was just me, on the car it was less the rusted nuts and more that Skoda (VW) like to leave unnecessarily long threaded bits sticking out beyond the nut, which get rusty and jam the nut as it comes off despite wire brushing and WD40. For the rear I just dropped the bottom arm so I could get the spring in uncompressed, then jacked it back up. This being because there wasn’t room for the spring compressors. I was a good boy and bolted up the damper and hub bolts with the suspension jacked up to the “unladen weight” position like wot it says in the manual. For the front it was at least fairly easy getting the carden shaft out (just as well as I don’t have an extractor!) but a faff getting it all back together without an assistant. Still, all done now and I saved about £300. Test drive entirely satisfactory. But Hmmm, I think next time I’ll just pay the £300 to avoid spending hours grovelling around on the garage floor. I’m worth it!

Yes, the battery in only 8 months old. I've already received the CAN Bus gateway today and i will try to do the installation this weekend and then proceed with the measurements again and then charge the battery and also run the battery tests, again. Hopefully i get all things right or else i don't have car anymore, at least for a long period

So, Ordered Nov 2021. Was told March 2022, then June 2022 then they had no clue. Car went into production in March, was awaiting final assembly for months then. Lost all hope, and if I'm honest, interest too... Was going to cancel my order when a random Saturday in August I got the video that it was in the dealers ready to go, just needed to be registered. Took delivery at the end of August after a long (worthwhile) wait. Phoenix Orange TDI vRS Saloon. Front and rear sensors and wireless charging were the only extras I requested. Didn't really care about the alcantara interior, certainly not for the price anyways!! It began to wear on my superb after a while anyways. I do miss my sunroof though and my electric seat :P

If it was only changes a few months ago it will be under warranty, but more likely as Sep says short journeys. Just charge up and see how it goes. Our resident battery whisperer will be along soon.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Best not to to view the second key as a spare key but as a second key and alternate the use of the keys on the vehicle in what ever way or time interval suits you that way you get more even wear of the batteries, keyblades and locks. Does the red light flash on the remotes when pressed? I always start with the quick, easy and free stuff (and anything that keeps my hands clean), first check both batteries are good and installed correctly. Then I would try synchronising both fobs. From 2017/5 Owner's Manual. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models I would be very close to the car before operating the remote to reduce chance of interference, does this happen at one location only or everywhere? Any other lights or dash warnings or other things not quite right? HTH.

A bit different but here is mine.. as a wallpaper 😀

I seriously suggest that people get a loan of a demonstrator or hire an EV for a couple of days at least before anyone buys or orders an EV for their personal / private use. Use it for a couple of days and public charging in your home area and maybe away for a trip outwith your area. That is after doing a bit of pre planning and research on chargers / types / tariffs using the various sites including the likes of ZapMap / PlugShare.

All smart chargers offer charge scheduling, so finding one should be easy. All EVs I have heard of offer charge scheduling within their infotainment systems and often also through the companion phone app. Research your specific car to see if the scheduling works in practice as not all do. E.G. VW ID cars offer this but it does not work properly unless on the latest versions of the software (V3.1 or higher). Weirdly the scheduled charging on the E-Golf and e-UP is flawless.

/thread.

All sorts of usual used car advice blah blah blah. Don't get sucked into full dealer service history stuff. Just because it was serviced at a dealer does not mean all necessary tasks were carried out. @tootwill be along shortly with the useful table of service intervals. A car that age and mileage should have had plugs, brake fluid and dsg as a minimum along side regular oil changes. My favourite thing to check is the tyres. Good points: all the same, half decent, plenty tread. Check for kerb rash too. Bad points: odd tyres, cheap tyres, kerb rash. Good tyres generally point to a car that was looked after.

Best when you hold down Menu/Setup button to enter engineering menu and find Software Train information page. This is also location for firmware update button.

That first sentence is tough to decode, Graham Taylor much?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Might be a combination of batteries and use as some seem to report more frequent changes than others and some prefer certain makes and say they last longer. The battery I replaced recently in my wife's remote was from a set from a £1-shop type place and lasted at least a few years possibly/probably longer, the missing Covid years makes things more difficult to date, but the expiry date on a that pack was "Dec 2020". In November this year my wife got a pack of Hyundai, two times of each 2032, 2025 and 2016 "best before 30-04-23". We are swimming in 2016s as we don't seem to have any use for that size and other cards with sizes we don't use it's such a waste, and to make things more fun the same batteries have three different code numbers. BTW - 2032 (typo) 2025 is 20mm wide by 2.5mm deep, I'll leave you to guess the other two sizes. 😁 Let us know how you get on, I always synchronise things like remote key fobs whether they appear to need it or not, just in case they might play up later and this time I discovered my wife was right and the 'emergency' driver's door keyblade lock was a bit awkward, apart from remember to put the key in the correct way and turn the key opposite way to expected, perhaps the lack of use and airborne grit/**** that's about. A quick spray of GT85 sorted the keyblade lock.

Ah, that makes sense. Run your hand both ways around the circumference and you should feel the saw-tooth edges. If so, swap the tyres front and rear on the same side of the car (LF to LR and vice versa).

Awesome, thanks!

Ah right, ok. Thanks anyway 👍

7.5Jx18 ET51 is the standard 18" size for the Octavia MK3. 7.5x18 ET48 is the standard 18" size for the Octavia MK4. "skoda eshop cz" alloy rims https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/en_CZ/alloy-wheels/c/alloyWheels?sort=priceAsc&q=%3AscoreDesc%3AcarType%3AOctavia%2BIV%2B%282019%2B%29&show=Page# If you use VAG group alloy rims, the wheel bolts are all the same...at least with 5/112 VAG rims. I would avoid aftermarket rims, because they tend to use different wheel bolts and they will often need spigots because the centre bore of aftermarket rims is usually larger than the Skoda's 57.1mm diameter. Also, aftermarket rims will often use a different width and offset so a car insurance company might regard that as a modification. Yet another problem with aftermarket rims is finding a single replacement if one gets damaged. It's much easier to find a single replacement VAG rim. Aftermarket rims won't usually quote their weight because they will often be very heavy so the sellers will quietly keep the weight secret from any potential buyers...perhaps with a sales tactic of saying, " we don't quote the weight because that might vary slightly from wheel to wheel". However, weight can also be a problem with VAG rims. For a cheap and light steel rim, you could do a lot worse than fitting a 6.5Jx17 ET38 5/112 57.1 steel rim from the Kodiaq together with a 205/55R17 tyre...instead of a 225/45R18 fitted to a 7.5Jx18 ET48 5/112 57.1 rim. Because of the ET38 Kodiaq's offset for this rim specification the outside of the 205 tyre will be in about the same place as the 225 tyre fitted to an ET48 rim. So although 205 is about 20mm narrower than 225, you wouldn't get that sunken in the wheelarch look. Another benefit of this 205 option, is the 20mm wider track because of the ET38 offset compared to the ET48 offset. 6.5Jx17 ET38 5/112 57.1 steel rim (from the Kodiaq) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rims/details?vehicleId=672860434273997936&rimCode=ALCAR9021 Weight of rims 6.5Jx17 about 10.5kg 7.5Jx18 about 13kg For four rims, there could be a weight saving of about 10kg (4x2.5kg) by choosing the 17" steel rim option over the heavy 18" alloy rim option ...and that's unsprung weight. The weight of a 205/55R17 tyre is also probably lighter than a wider 225/45R18 tyre. Not to mention the much improved ride from the higher sidewalled 17" tyre, and improved mpg due to less drag and less weight. In sales brochures you might have come across the misleading term "light alloy wheels". This is often incorrect, as steel rims are usually lighter than alloy rims. The reason being that although it's possible to make an alloy rim light if expensive alloys are used such as magnesium, usually manufacturers use cheap, weak, and heavy cast aluminium. Because cast aluminium is weak, a lot of material is needed to get sufficient strength...and that's where the weight problem comes. They look great and shiny in the showroom, but are nothing compared to the quality of the alloy rims you might find on a Porsche/Ferrari, etc. Manufacturers love fitting these cheap, shiny cast aluminium wheels to their cars because it helps them increase the price of the cars. It's a bit like fake jewellery, they may be shiny but definitely not quality.

Easy enough to (dis)prove; look for a wet patch or cooland residue just below the thermostat housing.

Thanks - I've got some brand new batteries arriving tomorrow as I couldn't remember how old the replacement battery was. I'll change the batteries again and have a go as directed.

Homebase country is Slovakia.

Thanks for the quick reply. I will keep that in mind. You're the best!! Happy Holidays.

I can send you a link and some simple instructions. If the car is in warranty, you should complain and they should do the update for you, if you choose to do it yourself then I highly doubt this would break anything. You will probably have a small 'fault' in the diagnostic scan, as the car needs an online connection for the mothership to register the update and feedback to the car a new checksum confirmation. This doesn't stop the radio, it's just a stored fault, and you can clear with VCDS.

Thanks for the information pab567. I am going to try re-flashing the firmware first with the latest version from varooom. If I do need to replace the touchscreen is that something you can supply? How easy is it to replace? Do I need any special tools?

No, the original fit skoda blade on the drivers side on pre facelift and current Kodiaq is a 25” blade. Bosch only recommends and supplies a 24” blade, which as said does fit and does not leave any obvious un-wiped area, but is in reality the wrong size.

Can confirm I used to see a range of 11.x - 13.x (tipping into low 14) on my 2.0tdi.

Another thing that would help the energy crisis and prevent power cuts (and possible issues for EV users?) would be if the plethora of external Christmas lights were bloody well turned off! I love houses needlessly over decorated with Christmas lights and plastic chintz, but this year isn't the year for it and I have never seen as many over decorated houses in my life. Astonishing numbers and they are burning through juice from afternoon until midnight and many stay on right though the night too. Ridiculous. Even though many are LED lights, they still all add up. Bah Humbug! Rant over Disclaimer: I am referring to houses that look like they have been decorated by the Griswolds in the above rant

I realise that's a bit more about energy, but energy is so part and parcel of the EV debate I thought it worth posting in here.

I was doubtful too, but having got some 3 years ago, it’s a very big yes, and am a convert. They actually deal with cold rain lot better, in my experience in wet below about +10c. The summer tyres would get skittish in field run off, autumn puddles etc, but the winters drive like road is dry. Winter tyres are also more than happy if get a warmer day of day +15c. On the 2 occasions we had snow could drive around happily including going up and down hills past others abandoning cars and 4x4s. On a winding B road with 50mph limit and about 50-80mm of new snow did shock myself when I glanced at speedo and found I was doing 45mph, the tyres were that good, like driving on dry road, and soft snow had made it silent. I have them on my Arona (which under the bodywork is very similar to a Kamiq), so can give very good feedback from experience. April-October I use the 215/45 R18 wheels with Pirelli P7 tyres that car came with, November-April using 205/60 R16 on Borbet Y rims with Goodyear ultragrip 9+ tyres. (The rims fit directly with original bolts, no adaptors). There are some other advantages, when the wheels are swapped, they get switched around so my front and back tyres have same tread depth and no worn shoulders, car has done 43,000 miles, still got 5mm tread on P7s and over 6mm on ultragrip, so will probably not need any more tyres until over 75k miles, so cheaper than buying 2 tyres every 25-30k miles. I change them myself, takes about 40 minutes including getting jack and tyres out (first time I used the emergency jack), but now have a basic trolley jack from tool station, which I place on an off cut of old kitchen worktop as my drive is block paving (also means don’t need the more expensive high lift jack).

Thanks for the replies. I have just tried holding the unlock button for longer than normal, and it opened all the windows, stopping when I released it. I think that's probably what happened... Mike 👍

Depends on what software tools you have to read out car data. Then as above, you won't probably be able to program in a new flash.

On my 16MY L&K 280 tsi there are sensors, but I think they are just limit sensors - they don't tell you how much pad is left, they just activate when you reach the wear limit which is 2mm. Presumably by "3/4mm" you mean three to four millimeters, not threequarters of a millimetre! In which case you have a little way to go yet. I seem to recall they are only on one front and one rear brake, can't remember which side.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Depending on what you mean I don't think you'd lose changes but varooom and others would know better than me. ETA: Just seen varooom had already covered that, which reminds me, you can get about £7 or £8 back on an EFB battery at a scrappy. The AGM batteries can arrive with 12.4v and a tick for that's fine. I'm with varoom to leave at least 2-3 hours or best overnight before taking a voltage reading and bear in mind unless you have an expensive multimeter the reading may be near enough but not necessary spot on. I took my optimistic multimeter (which he had bought me) over to a friend's and compared it with the two he'd had for a while and a new one he bought as the first two gave different readings to each other, we tested all four on two different car batteries, the new meter he bought was furthest from the other three which gave different but close readings to each other.

Diagnostic without the engine started will pull a fair bit of power from the battery, though anything under 12V does not seem either right or good, but you should measure with multimeter not diagnostic tool you used of course. Once you have charged battery to full capacity, only measure it's Voltage after it has rested for a minimum of 2hr, ideally overnight if you can. Best of luck with your swap.

🤣 No, no, far from it. Best to just say I prewarn for a reason too boring to go into - but It'd be a total waste of money suing me. 🤣 🤣 🤣

Got to give a shout for Tayna Batteries. Ordered new battery late afternoon yesterday (Fri), and received it at 09:20am today.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Exactly the type of car use where the use of your C-Tek, or any other suitable battery charger, would help extend the life of the battery and avoid it going a bit too low so that despite the vehicle starting and the lights seeming bright enough the computer programs start to play up and may give all sorts of unexpected issues and perhaps warnings. You've been lucky to have the change before the cold weather. The very hot and extreme weather we had this summer wasn't good for the batteries (or charging systems) and will be reflected in an increase in the already seasonal increase in vehicle breakdowns and call outs and battery sales (many of them not strictly necessary). But you should be well sorted now with a new AGM battery and a battery charger to hand for future use when needed but only when needed as a preventative measure and not too often AGMs are fine at 12..4v). Like me you can lend your charger out to neighbours who have left things too long with their batteries or just made a mistake of leaving something electric running. Good luck.

On the factory specs it states built 24 05 2017, so technically it will be 6 years old, but only 5 years use. Fact remains it needs a new battery. It does not do many long runs. I'm retired and the wife uses it once a week for a 3 mile round trip shopping, and I may use it twice for about the same distance, so the battery is getting a hammering, not getting long enough runs to keep it charged.

I've managed to find a set of 17's winter alloys from an Audi Q2, almost brand new. The dimensions are identical to my factory fitted ones - Pulsar Aero rims. 7J, 5x112mm, ET 45. The only difference is one mm wider offset, but that is not really a difference. Took them to the paint shop and anthracite grey coating was applied than Fulda Kristall Control HP 2 installed. Also, the center caps are replaced with Skoda ones from Aliexpress. The only downside I see is, that the winter alloys are heavier than the the Pulsars.

Most of us know what the story is no matter what year they do the videos. It seems it is just lots of SUV / AWD car drivers that fail to get the message about having all the gear other than the correct tyres when winter gets wintry, It was worth a try in D1 . 'What is the worst that could happen?' as he was only going back down anyway.

Realistically probably better thinking 12-14 months, and not 6-7 months per sales patter. You can always tell if salesman is telling you what you want to hear if you play with the argument and put a test scenario there way, something like saying : so you would be happy to knock 2% off price for every month beyond your highest estimate, if I signed today. Pause about 10 seconds then ask if would like to revise delivery estimate.

Hi everyone and thanks again for all the advice and information. in the end I used some bilt hamber rust converter, then anti corrosion wax which I had around which should halt the corrosion. I would also like to warn people with a mk2 superb about a potential corrosion issue, on the floor pan around the spare wheel well and where the rear springs are, there was quite a bit of rust. This may not be an issue at this stage but could become one in the future if left untreated. I treated this rust in the same way as I did the subframe.

I think your picture is the same stuff in a different language https://www.owatroldirect.co.uk/product/owatrol-oil/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwyMiTBhDKARIsAAJ-9Vuq-Coq4XoMWBdSAK_aUhQyim6RGX576iWFZskexSD_wIMXfao_t6oaAiChEALw_wcB I used Owatrol on the sump from the 0.5l cans brushed on after being poured into a jam jar. I've since used the spray cans on suspension parts and hard to get to places. Try a can of each to start with.