Leaderboard

Not ideal, but not the worst. No corrosion, so it's justifiable to put this one right.

After my earlier plea for help, I went over to see @varooom who had access to an earlier version on VCDS and also ODIS. Sadly the VCDS couldn’t find Hex A9, so we plugged in the ODIS into the OBD port and computer and went from there. Car ignition was on, and bonnet open during this process. It was a bit like a needle in a haystack, with very little information on YouTube or the web. After searching through probably 1,000 different modules/entries on the screen, eventually we found under 0001 Engine Electronics a submenu with 00A9, the dreaded Sound Actuator. This should be photo#1 clicking on that took is to the second picture, which showed the volume of the actuator as 100. We (he) then changed that value to “0” (zero), clicked “apply”. Then as per the third picture, you can see it has stored the current value as 0. Shut the ODIS down and remove plug from OBD port Turned ignition off, shut the bonnet, shut and locked the car for a minute. unlocked the car and started up. And silence (from the actutor) ensues. As all you have done is turn down the volume, no other faults are thrown. (Disconnecting the unit physically reportedly throws other faults up, and removing the fuse also stops other stuff working) Anyhow, that’s how it was done, and hopefully this information will save other people a lot of time trying to find where 00A9 is buried on ODIS Oh, just to add, running the diagnostics does chew through the car battery, so make sure you have a jump start pack or can plug the car in to something g like a Ctek charger/conditioner while running the diagnostics. And make sure you have turned the heated seat off too as that really seems to eat the battery 🤦🏼 And big thanks to my new hero, @varooom

Mk7 GTI - Mk3 VRs - Mk6 GTI Is the order id be picking.

The purpose of checking the battery voltage is to see if the battery has a bad cell. You can check for a bad cell by fully charging the battery and leaving it overnight (perhaps at least 8 hours) and then checking the battery voltage. If after about 8 hours the voltage has dropped to a low level, such as below 12.2V, you probably need a new battery. Although, it's best to perform the test with the battery disconnected (such as disconnecting the negative terminal) in case there's a parasitic drain, such as a radio gone bad and causing the battery to drain quickly. Although your car is 2020, it's well know that Skoda don't use good quality and expensive AGM stop-start batteries, but a cheaper EFB battery. The cheaper EFB battery doesn't last long, so you may need a new battery. Usually battery problems turn out to be a battery with a cell that's gone bad, and the battery simply needing replacing. If you do get a new stop-start battery, an AGM Varta battery is one of the best.

I know they're not the same cars, but Mrs (the pothole queen) Gaz's Polo GTI (45k miles) had to have a new NSF spring. We only went for one spring instead of a pair. I can't notice any difference, and although I've done axle pairs before on other cars, I wouldn't bother again. As long as it's identical and the remaining spring isn't in a state that makes it stupid not to while you're at it. G

The WRN lives!! 👍😎 Don't they know, the rear exhaust has to have a hole in it? 🙄 Methinks they're getting lazy and too used to MOT'ing EV's rather than proper cars 😁 Not a bad fail, all told. Bit o' DIY'ing to keep you entertained. Gaz

Hi Warrior and thanks. Did a decent amount of reading on the AstroAl , 4000 & the 6000 and great reviews, my reason for opting for the 6000 is simply I want to start getting in to measuring capacitors and such like. You Tube last night and discovered the 6000 is the same as the picture below so I ordered that on Ali, its the same MM--apparently or close. Found a few applicable Ali vouchers so paid £16 odd for the MM and managed to bag a hard case for it for around £7.00. Was hoping to find a case for the smart charger, couldn't find one to fit so that will have to be stored in plastic container when not in use. Hopefully I have bought OK, no idea half the stuff MM can do, that's a learning curve coming my way so now I just have to be patient and wait for the slow boat Bought a couple of things for the Yeti, wheel locating alignment tool and a set for one of my daughters and a Nano--something toy for one of the grand kids. Saved a few quid buying via Ali I hope. Would like to know what you think of the MM.

Just had the nod from the dealer my car has been built (two weeks earlier than original build week) and it is now waiting for the boat in Germany! Ordered 30th November last year so really surprised at how quickly it's gone through. It's petrol VRS not iV so not sure if that has made a difference 😁

I too didn't like the sound actuator at 100%. Had mine turned down to 30% which seemed to be a good compromise. Gaz

@Floreien you will not be able to have CarPlay enabled officially, new unit (Bolero 5Q0035842C or Amundsen 5Q0035874C) must be patched. Pls contact me on PM if you are interested.

Time to take to someone who can actually route cause the issue rather than keep guessing or throwing parts at it, You never answered my question on what distances you drive and over what type of terrain - changing a thermostat 3 time suggests that it is still not getting up to temperature, changing a radiator would generally be due to overheating rather that running cool, you have not confirmed if you have tried an extended drive on the motorway, there has been no clarification of the available engine temperature now you have changed all the above items - still 68C? which is an odd value as a stuck open thermostat would cause temp to rise and fall and not stabilised unless the water temperature sensor is an issue. To change the heater matrix did you not have to remove all the heater mixer controls?. Also details of actual model may have assisted in allowing people to identify heater system - S, Se or Elegance - as the engine was available in different trims.

Always a new thing to fix! Now I have petrol leaking out of the cap. New filler cap seal on order. Also called into the local Audi dealer to see what they can find me as a replacement as on close inspection it seems to be leaking though the lock! Ahh clean at last.

Using Cruise Control is not helping your economy on the A90 in either direction. Or anyplace else. I know from driving it for over 40 years. I better Cruise Control by using the accelerator my self on any route.

Congratulations thommo41 I took delivery of my identical vRS petrol estate 2 weeks ago. It's absolutely fabulous and definitely worth the wait of nearly 10 months. Ordered in March 22 with Pan roof and a couple of extras. Just fitted genuine Skoda mudflaps to help lessen the stone chips and given it a couple of coats of Meguiars wax to protect it as best as I can.

First post here. After 15 months of waiting, it has finally arrived, VRS IV mamba green.

Hi all, Big Mk3 Octavia Fan here, we currently have a 1.4 TSI Mk3 - it's been great. I am looking to change from my Abarth Competizione (180) to a Mk6 GTI or a MK7 VRS Octy - i need more room but the GTi will be big enough. The only reason I'm not considering a mk7 GTi is because it's just over my budget, i am struggling to find a good one for less than 12k but I can just about stretch to a MK3 VRS Petrol for that money. I actually prefer the styling of the MK3 VRS but feel as though i could get a really good low miles Mk6 GTi for less money. I'd expect the GTI to hold it's value better as well. Anyone driven both? How far ahead was the Mk3 MQB platform over the Mk6 Golf? Does the GTI handle better? Are golfs actually quieter inside or is that just myth?? I have sat in golfs and Octavia's before and struggle to see how the Golf is better built? They seem to use the exact same plastics and buttons?? Thanks all

Check your PM for download link. BTW: Your unit must be 5Q0035874C, not 5Q003587AC

Hello all, it's been a while since I visited this thread. Just to clear up some things from the last few posts. The polo gti gearbox will not fit the ea211 engines as its designed to fit an ea888 engine which has a larger bell housing with a different bolt pattern. For gearbox upgrades your best bet will be looking for a gearbox from a CZD or CZE engine as I believe they may be MQ250s used on those. The standard 6 speed PRQ boxes are perfectly capable of pushing power, unless you snap your dog bone mount which will crack the diff housing which is part of the bell housing (don't ask me how I know) As for engines, all ea211 4 cylinder engines use almost identical long blocks, just with different bore/stroke combos. Some have extra sensors or features, and some just have blanks cast into the block. Swapping from the cjz 1.2tsi to a czc 1.4tsi is very easy, everything is identical except for a couple extra sensors at the back of the engine near where the turbo sits. You can get away with not using these sensors and leaving them disconnected to use the oem ecu and loom for the 1.2, and as far as I'm aware, I still have the only 1.4tsi swapped mk3 fabia in the uk, and became the first to do a fmic conversion at the start of the month. As for turbo swaps, the best results seem to have come from the rtmg hybrid turbos for the 1.4tsi ea211 engines such as the setup in @Monkey_Dan's Fabia. You can still hit around 170-180 using a 1.4tsi turbo such as the ones listed at the start of this thread, but there are quite a few tuners who won't touch that turbo setup. Lmk if anyone has any questions 👌

Their is some guides on Youtube but I guess it takes about 20min or so, I only removed it about 15cm so I could get the light out. The cables to the PDC and the rest was still connected

I had the same on my previous Kodiaq, and there have seen reports of similar on other models , and always the passenger door handle. Spraying the mechanism exposed when the handle is pulled out with with white lithium grease solved the problem for me. I wouldn’t advise using standard WD-40 as this would just wash away any of the original lubricant , and doesn’t provide any useful lubricant properties.

Now all is looking like in right😃. Thanks for some advices my friend👍...problem was mine probably with SD card or extracted files from your zip file in my laptop. All junks of MMX1 on sd0 were completely processed sucessfully😏.

If its petrol I'd definitely go for a mk3 vrs. Unless you meant the mk7 gti which you mention a few times but I think based on you initially referring to mk6. As well as budget. I have a mk7 Golf R and had a facelift mk2 VRs. So opposite was round to what your asking, the mk2 fl used the mk6 gti engine and most running gear. The golf will be more nimble, smaller, possibly better build, seats are much better in my mk7 compared to the mk2 facelift. But as mentioned at inception. The gen 3 engine on a mk3 is a much better bet than a gen 2 in a mk6 gti. Even though I ran my gen 2 for 45k miles (35k to 80k) without any major problem. A lot are not so lucky.

Was just thinking about the cluster again - I remember a guy on here called tombirch95 who totally wrecked his cluster by trying to change the LEDs. Even the speedo would no longer work So he bought a used cluster and wired standard type LEDs in to make it light up white

Aye, I would have just gotten rid of it if there was anything serious lurking. I'm going to properly see to the surface rust this year before it beds itself in properly.

Do you have any pictures?

I went to Helston Cornwall yesterday and in the Skoda dealers showroom was a graphite grey vrs (cancelled order) all it lacked for me was a tow bar and retailers can now fit it. Picking it up on the 1st of March, seen to bought about 20 mins. Although I first ordered a replacement for my Mk 3 Superb two years ago and cancelled due to rubbish service from the agent. So I’ve settled for the Occty now that it’s got a boot big enough for the wife’s Old English Sheepdog. Deepest sympathy for everybody who’s been waiting, what must seem like a life time, another thing to blame Putrid for.

oops - looks like new spring / exhaust needed and a bit of adjustment on the handbrake cable to take up some slack? Not ideal but could've been much worse!

Aye that's what I'm thinking too, was trying to work it out in my head yesterday. Will give it a fettle over the coming days.

Ours goes in Weds. Good luck matey. 🙂

Worse than going to the dentist 😁 Good luck, mate

Yes, but this is peanuts...

Changing CANTON is not a big deal - just add harness from glove box unit to the new amplifier (plus the power for amplifier). You have to make sure your amplifier is capable of driving 10 individual speakers or you have to use additional crossover to combine individual such-channels.

Also, this fine automobile is now in the hands of the man from the Ministry of Transport. Eeeek.

Aye they look a wee bit dull but it's not too bad IMO. Ryan does the LED replacements at times, so I may ask him nicely.

No bother - always glad to help. With the front, it uses/shares the same hole as that is used to hold the wheel arch liner and/or front mudflap. With the rear, u need to drill a hole into the wind deflector trim Infront of the rear wheel. Then fix using rivet or nut & bolt. Front & rear easy to do. With the middle, u need to use the supplied kit. It contains black automotive sikaflex bond/glue. It comes with all the instructions - u just need to prep and follow it step by step. I did mine at home. The mudflaps were a pain to do - took ages, and I had to trial fit, then shave off a bit more that trial fit again until I got it right.

Unless I'm missing something here, this simply can't be true. Power is a factor of torque x angular displacement. So if you lower the torque, you must raise the RPMs, in order to have the same power output (this is, in essence, what a transmission does: exchange, both up and down, torque and RPMs). It's basic Physics... I've investigated and the manual 2015 Polo GTI uses the MQ350 transmission. There must be a DSG equivalent with a 350 Nm rating installed in the automatic version.

It matters what acceleration the vehicle has and no idea if @PetrolDave,s 1.8TSI / 180 ps is just a FWD and has a DQ200, but even in a DQ250 it will likely drop 2 gears and move a bit quicker than a more powerful diesel that might well need to wind it's self up. A DQ200 really does have good points fitted to engines with small turbos. The quick reaction to the accelerator can be an issue with the 1.0 or 1.2 even 1.4 or 1.5 as in wheel spin from a standing start, a rolling start is not the same though. These were / are 192 ps.

@Smart Pro and @Breezy_Pete thanks very much to both of you. I believe I've managed to find the problem, with both of your help. I'll add more info for anyone else searching for a similar fix Once I replaced the 40a fuse (fuse 22 in the internal fuse box) and tested all the voltages of the wires - it turns out that the offending part was the resistor on the replacement Eurocarparts heater blower which I'd not long replaced. Changed for a new one and we are once again blowing air! - however In the process I've managed to light up the dash with warning lights... I think I left the battery disconnected for too long (possibly shouldn't have totally disconnected it at all? 🤔) and now a bunch of lights have come up on the dash. -traction control light -the steering wheel icon (?) Light - another I can't recall currently. any easy way to reset or clear those lights?

The 2.0 tdi is a particularly adept motorway cruiser as you just get up to 6th and go. Efficient too on a good run. I used to regularly do in the region of 250-400 a day and I’d say it was great. Make sure your tyres are up to correct pressures when cold as it makes everything better. Also worth making sure your screen wash is full plus you have some concentrate to make up another 3-5L. The headlight washers drink the stuff

You're not alone! BCM = Body Control Module ODIS = Offboard Diagnostic Information System (Dealer diagnostic tool) GFF = Guided Fault Finding (part of ODIS) SVM = Software Version Management

So today with the help of another forum member, I now have a sound actuator turned down to zero. link to post as to how it was done using ODIS attached https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/510736-how-to-switch-off-fake-engine-sound-using-odis/ It really has, for me, transformed the car into a much more pleasant place to be

🤣🤣 You know it - I work with those spotty kids. The Fabia is my wife's daily and the dog truck, the Octavia is (mostly) the long-distance cruiser whose next big outing will be to Skye in March, a 1400 mile round trip. It'll be a completely different experience from my much-missed Freelander but hopefully a more relaxing drive. Thanks for the welcome.

is good link !

It's finally happening. Handover scheduled for next week's friday. Can hardly believe it. It's been over a year since the original planned delivery date and over 1.5 years since the order.

Facelift lights are installed, bought them from a UK based EV breaker.

Hi, don't have any sorry...but I can see from your photo the contact is bent. Its an easy job to straighten out. If you need any info on how to do this please ask - done it loads of times!