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I'm currently sailing around the Canaries. Lying on deck in the sunshine sipping an ice cold beer yesterday afternoon I was perusing the For Sale section of another forum I'm a member of. A Mk1 Fabia vRS at a very reasonable price caught my eye and after exchanging a couple of messages with the owner a deal was done. Please don't get the idea that I'm some kind of international playboy, I live a fairly humdrum existence in North Wales usually! I'll be picking up the car on my way home next week - really looking forward to it - something to ease the change from Canarian warmth and sunshine to the wet and cold of Snowdonia in February. Thanks to member @AnnoyingPentiumfor telling me about Briskoda - the car needs a new window module so I'll be in touch with @Breezy_Peteonce I have the VIN. Cheers, Jim

Did anyone guess £585?! Got the wheels balanced as well as it ejected a balancing weight. Now the car has a year's ticket and I have a car, by extension. May the norm resume.

I got the gearbox fixed at an independent garage in Glasgow. I've not had any issues since and have done a trip to Aberdeen and back (as well as daily use) since so fingers crossed. Any future issues I'll check in with the garage again and report back. If future readers are near my neck of the woods (central belt) there are two major independent automatic transmission places in Glasgow who had different options for sorting the issue (one significantly more costly). My understanding is I shouldn't name the garages on the forum to avoid advertising etc. Besides that the gearbox is obviously complex and I'm ignorant to its specifics so I would think it's worth checking Google and speaking to both anyway. I don't tow so can't really add anything in this regard. When the DSG is working I've personally found it to be pretty smooth and haven't found the issues with erratic changes you describe above Good luck with your purchase whatever you decide to do. Would you consider getting an aftermarket warranty (making sure it covers the DSG & mechatronic) for a bit of peace of mind for it's duration?

Glad to see you've made it over the other side now, Jim. Both, would be the correct answer I'm sure.

Thanks for the image that I cannot get outta my head now... his tentacles. Pass me the blowtorch for my eyeballs please. 😆

Hello and welcome Jim I'm not sure whether to be impressed, or disconcerted, that our Ryan tracked you down while on holiday. His tentacles obviously have a long reach! 🤣 Gotta love a Mk1 vRS. Gaz

So hi to all citigo owners. Due to my mk3 superb recently has been written off I've decided to downgrade to smaller car. After some research I've made decision to buy 2016 citigo colour edition 1.0 60hp 5d with around 38k miles. I'm owning the car for just around 3 weeks and I absolutely love it. 3 first photos from the day when I bought it and rest shows my small mods Inc: Fitting Garmin Pid New Skoda fabia Monte Carlo leather steering wheel Sound deadening to boot Inc carpets on sides Boot floor mat Smoked side indicators Led interior light and boot light Led numberplate light Front grill wrapped gloss black Rear lights tinted partially (just white bits) And the biggest mod so far H&R springs. Car is booked for remap tomorrow 😎

Well, I’m very happy with my RaceChip GTS Black. I don’t really give a toss about what the manufacturer says they give (although in a number of tests RaceChip units have been shown to be there or there abouts if the initial setup instructions are followed) but all I can say is the improvement, coupled with the XLR pedal box, is absolutely amazing. I didn’t want to go down the remap route immediately as it’s not transferable but if I ever did go for one, unlike the remap, it does have a resale value.

Sounds promising, thanks all!

You’re spot on @varooom , the sound being set to zero has held so there is now now sound whatever profile/mode is selected. And it’s so much the better for it 🤣🤣🤣

Micro hybrid is its correct term. It’s a software controlled way of reducing energy consumption and emissions by putting more work through the battery and only using alternator output when needed. It’s constantly varying and needs to know what is going on throughout the electrical circuits to determine the correct alternator output. It’s also set up to maximise the life expectancy of the battery during an average lifetime duty cycle. Unregulated charging overcharges the battery, excess energy is turned to heat. The last thing you need in a 12v battery is excess heat as it accelerates decay. A standard battery will work in S/S applications but it’s set up means it’s approx 50% less durable than the equivalent AGM. AGM - Absorbent Glass Mat Top spec SS battery that takes a lot of abuse very well and accepts charge faster than the alternatives. EFB - Enhanced Flooded Battery Entry level S/S battery with polymer based plate envelopes and electrolyte mixer elements to boost durability against abuse. A halfway house between SLI and AGM. SLI Flooded battery Starting/Lights/Ignition A basic battery that does the job but has no thrills at the expense of long term performance and resistance to abuse. Has a deep cycle frequency of around 50% less than the equivalent AGM. Will overheat quicker than alternatives if overcharged leading to moisture loss, wear, premature failure. Most likely to short circuit a cell or fail early out of these three battery types.

It is possible with VCDS on older models. Not sure you can access the ECU on latest models. @varooom Yes, completely off no matter what profile is selected.

Well it was certainly more descriptive and accurate than "fuel pressure to high pending". You seem to have made your mind up over the competence and knowledge of the forum contributors so I wish you luck finding your ideas elsewhere.

My theory of what happened is that someone inadvertently switched on some or all of the redundant cameras which were still set to record speeds in excess of what had previously been the prescribed 50mph. Presumably this automatically generated the NIP process, but I guess at some point not long thereafter someone noticed that rather than the usual 2 or 3 reprobates per hour caught going too fast, suddenly that number jumped to 1000+, at which point the binge watching of box sets was put on hold and some poor sap was forced to leave home and go into the office to sort it out.

What will you be buying and what's the T&C of their service plan? You'll find it's the same whatever car you chose. I took out an extended warranty but after a few months sold my car. I contacted the warranty helpline and I was refunded pro-rata which is exactly what I'd expect to happen. Why would I have expected to receive everything back? Sorry but what were your expectations - that you could pay for your service in installmants interest free? I'm more surprised someone thought that'd be the case. If you decide to pull out of a contract then you're the one set to loose out. Think yourself lucky you weren't also charged a termination ( admin ) fee for doing so. As for the 0870 number... The price of these calls vary depending on who your phone provider is. If YOU have chosen a provider who charges high prices for these type of calls what has that to do with Skoda? Will you be complaining to your phone provider and telling them that you'll never be taking out another one of their contracts? P.S. A question was asked does warranty apply to new owner? There was no warranty - the OP cancelled it and as it hadn't been fully paid for, the new owner would have to shell out more money. Hardly a selling point? In any case that would only apply to a private sale because if the car was sold to a dealer / the trade, a warranty is the last thing they want. What they want to do is sell the car and offer their own warranty so that they can make extra money on the deal. An extended warranty would have added hee-haw value to the OPs car.

Hey up, I’m still procrastinating about changing my xenon bulbs. There’s a picture/video showing how to do it and I noticed that on his car he has foam which I guess is sound deadening. On the same video someone said their Sportline didn’t have it, but is it on SE-L as standard? The video for reference

I've got a similar set up to yours. We have Ethernet cable from the house down through the bushes at the side of the garden into the cabin where we have a double Ethernet socket. I have an old Apple AirPort Express A1088 connected by a short length ethernet cable and plugged into a mains socket in the cabin. I see there's one of those on eBay for just over a tenner delivered. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304782728108?hash=item46f6775bac:g:HfkAAOSwcP5j0rFv&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoJXEEcVVBnNISRs4KXTe8maefRxgxwubndW2lYleTPmT2VSmCsuFronqJQ0DiL2ale8Q0sJqoIrlC5ttKu1MUcl6Y0kECcwGVKM7L5ZqQYgAdSDDAznBScuOsm9mumfEVBON4zsPmTeSvh3l4LAz1qgGKmQbZEyTGDX4FonYPDGMQq2S8DumI9Ks6eQhxYgAatHgIh57Cfvr2gW8E42fEeQ%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR-zq28nLYQ

Your lighting switch is in the sidelight position. The buzzing noise is to warn you when you leave the vehicle to avoid having a flat battery on your return. If the switch is on the headlight setting then they will go out with the ignition off when you lock the car, the sidelights (parking lights) will not. You can also inadvertently knock the indicator stalk while getting out which will turn on the parking lights on the side the stalk is moved to.

so quick update i've managed to have a look under the back of the car and looking at the springs on the rear are a pair of 5Q0511121AF so at least it is defiantly standard suspension that hasn't been messed with. I will pop the set of Hawk alloys on it and see what the high reverts back to as these have the same size as the factory TRIUS rims with the same size as fitted hopefully things will look more normal with those on and look better Thanks Carlston for all your help earlier today

I had my Mk5 Golf GT Sport 170 TDI remapped by Angel Tuning, Scotland. I subsequently had it tested on Star Performance's dyno and it made close to the claimed 210 bhp and 325 lbs-ft. In fact, it made a bit more torque. I subsequently had my Yeti 150 TDI remapped by them as well. I've not run it on the dyno but I'm very pleased with the performance gains. If you decide not to go for a full custom map, I'd recommend Angel Tuning.

No a non-RR map will be much better than a box. Maybe 85-90% of a Dyno/road map. The risk of an off the shelf map is component life. It won't be optimised for your specific car so will either push some parts (turbo) too far or will reign in the power to compensate. A fully custom map will get you the most from the engine from both a power and driveability point of view. Don't discount a cots map though. They have their place and my current car has one. Last 2 were semi custom and I can honestly say I can't tell the difference. 3 totally different platforms though.

This is an excellent Topic. Not new by any means, but some of the responses and contributions are really quite good IMO.

thanks vroom ... i'll store this info in my back sleeve of my haynes manual ... not very a proof read manual ... as for the fuse layouts they show ... nothing like the real thing ... glove box go to 12.8 ... there is no 12.8 ! worst ... the phrase see illustration but no illustration number so out of say 10 illustrations on a double page spread you guess which they are referring to (literally) and they use different words to those under the illustration ... just as well I'm a useless car mechanic ... oddly great on motorcycles but hopeless on cars ... use the manual to learn the fuse layouts and keep some spares handy

I’ve no other tools other than a diagnostic tool but I need to find it first. The settings are for all doors. It’s a hatchback and trim is a s. I’ve never had any problems with the lock it happen instantly

Just wanted to say hello. I have purchased my first ever Skoda. Its a Octavia MK lll VRS. I love it and cant believe it took me this long to buy one. I'm here to learn and to acquire some knowledge about my car.

I do already i got it October last year. Normally i just want to drive a car from A to B, but i want to gain some knowledge about my VRS. Not felt this way since my MK1 Escort days 🙂

You was spot on with your part number guess above the post here, found the part for your Estate, and they still use the same part number, just with new date range. Illustration 868-080 if you have parts program lookup, part 8

Ah okay. Doesn't that turn on the dipped beam? I just want the needles on with the drl lol if that's even possible on the matrix headlights

That is quite a lot of difference assuming it is parked on a perfectly flat surface. edit: 28k miles only as well!! The dimensions are in the suspension setting workshop manual available in Erwin. Published as height from centre of wheel hub to top of arch. I have these for the Mk7 Golf but not Mk3 Oct. Are you sure a spring is not missing a coil. A heavy driver and passenger behind. Or a replacement spring that is a different spec is installed. If they are genuine they have up to 3 colour bands. There are lots and lots of variants when manufactured based on suspension PR code (spec) car built with. You can look up on etka a full listing of available parts, but I suspect you will need to know the suspension PR code car built with to narrow the part - there will be a choice of many parts for the mk3 platform.

Thanks for that information Vroom, at least its some kind of barometer, though I think the DQ200 Boxes are more common place as you pointed out

@johnny cabbage headYou will have to take this with a pinch of salt, but I have TPI (Technical Product Information) documents for faults on some cars. The DQ200 faults far outweigh the DQ381 documents 10:1 This is anecdotal as it could also be that there are more DQ200 boxes fitted, but I believe they are tougher boxes overall myself.

Don't worry, I suspect you missed the above image was for Superb I, not Superb III. I was searching to find rhe one and only 90,000km change. This was to find a match for the sticker the dealer placed on the timing belt cover. The image here for Superb III, MY2017+ Camshaft belt and pulley is 210,000km No time limit It's 120,000km for a dusty Country. Sorry if it caused confusion, it's all in the easily missed small detail

Firstly most cars develop faults. Before we panic what’s the failure rate? How was the car driven? I.E. thrashed, towing heavy /overweight loads, remapped, driven poorly…I.E. moving the DSG lever whilst in motion? I am not removing blame from VAG or particularly Skoda, which often seems to take a long time to respond to faults commonly reported on this forum, cam chain tensioner, abs modules and sunroof surround cracking spring to mind. Although I have experienced 2 of those faults, each case required a bit of negotiation with the dealer. Never was there any admission that the problem was indeed common. @johnny cabbage head As for departing roundabouts, if you press the accelerator pedal firmly whilst at a halt, I’m you will be fine, regardless whether manual or DSG, if you are towing a 23 ft caravan, you’ll still need a decent gap to pull out.

http://autocar.co.uk/car-news/business/volkswagen-deliveries-halted-wltp-emissions-certification Just for future so as no internet myth from re-writing history or having alternative facts. The 1.5 TSI ACT engines were produced and on sale pre WLTP coming in on September 2018. (There were issues reported with cars and the kangerooing pre the WLTP 1.5 TSI ACT's but really it was much more of an issue for some with the cars that were delivered with WLTP Cerification and they needed to start the fight to get vehicles fit for purpose, which is driving on real roads in the real world.) What the issue was that the figures on emissions pre WLTP need to get sorted out as they were far to high to go and get Certification as were other VW Group engines. The delay was VW having to manipulate Engine Management / Software to get the results needed under testing, WLTP & RDE. That meant some cars then behaved poorly out in the real world compared to under World Wide Harmonised Testing which was not about the Whole World but the EU & Europe. Ones that could not be used like a 1.4 TSI without being a PHEV were fine for other World Wide regions where just being honest with emissions seems to be OK. Use the 1.4 TSI and an 8 speed automatic and things are all good. 2017 .................... Below is not a 2017 car as you can not put on newer plates on older cars in the UK. (Unless first registering a car built years before.) But there were Skoda 1.5 TSI ACT DSG in 2017. http://autoexpress.co.uk/skoda/octavia/101350/new-skoda-octavia-estate-15-petrol-2017-review These were available before the WLTP was coming in, then the issue arose when they had to do the WLTP & VW struggled so cars were bunkered. Cars could not be imported into the likes of the UK or other countries, so Deliveries were held up for months.

Anything is possible although you are now asking about two separate functions - auto folding vs reverse dipping. - if you want reverse dipping, you'll need a memory motor with some extra wires - If you want auto folding, you'll need two new wing mirrors with the motors built in and ideally a new mirror control switch with a fold position Both rely on your door control modules supporting that function, I'd suggest you start with identifying what your current modules support Practical examples: - Random example of someone on drive2.ru fitting a memory motor: https://www.drive2.ru/l/572878819371786178/ - Sasha did a decent write up for power fold mirrors here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/442148-sasha’s-octavia-vrs/?do=findComment&comment=5155004

Get a picture of currently fitted battery (make sure we can see the battery cover also) The new battery And you still need to post the year of your car

I'd certainly consider changing the pollen and engine air filters, inexpensive and pretty easy to do. long period of disuse could mean they've got pretty damp.

@likaleica The 096 battery size is not an issue - what is most likely the problem is either the type (EFB or AGM required) or the terminal layout is not suitable. You will probably get a lot of spurious error codes pop up when you connect the new battery, but these should all clear after a short drive. AFAIK, ICE codes are permanent as long as the unit stays in original vehicle.

Climate control sync has always been an issue. As Dave says it works if you adapt the left one. Clearly someone hasn't ticked a box to invert the feature for us in the UK

2 examples to look, they fit to your 1.9 https://izap24.ru/tovar/18888819_schitok-priborov-pribornaya-panel-skoda-felicia-1999-6u0919033c.html https://www.ekodily.cz/e-shop/1385584-cz-skoda-felicia-19d-64-hp-manual-47-kw-1896-cm3-5--pristrojova-deska-6u0919033c-pristrojove-desky-displeje/ Skoda Felicia 1.9d 64 hp manual 47 kW but searcing for: 6U0919033C you can find almost everywhere (ebay etc). This is from Spain https://izap24.ru/tovar/18888819_schitok-priborov-pribornaya-panel-skoda-felicia-1999-6u0919033c.html extremely close to you.

could just fit a new loom...........saves messing around and future potential repair "failures" further down the line.............just my opinion.

I know from bitter experience of multiple mass transit equipment failures that soldered joints are brittle and will not withstand cyclic flexing, let alone on the wrong type of wire used in a very shonky door loop. However pragmatically I 100% agree with your proposed solution, using a longer linking wire would enable half the soldered joints to be made within the protected and accessible area within the door frame leaving just one soldered joint per wire within the door loop. Hell if I get a problem tomorrow I will be straight in their with a red butt crimp! I still feel guilty for scrapping my MK1 Octavia which had deadlocked all but the drivers door, I had not realised then that it was certainly broken door loop wiring and was chasing my tail trying to do Canbus comms testing without the required knowledge. In the 12 years I owned that super reliable vehicle I only used this forum once, had it been as flaky as its later replacements I would have gained the knowledge that I now have but needed then.

Here is the correct MIB3 guide attached Map-updates-mib3.pdf Guide link (above) https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/Download/Map-updates-mib3.pdf MIB3 EU Map for offline update https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/OI_P85_EU_202245_Offline_Update.zip

Just an update on the fuel consumption issue..... I have fitted a MAF sensor (Bosch) and the smoking issue, under hard acceleration, which has always been an issue, has disappeared completely. Also the fuel economy has come back. I also seems to run a lot better. Thank you for your advice.

There is Winter formulation Diesel & Petrol distributed starting in October in Scotland & the North of England until the end March. Further south comes from October on. If the weather / ambient temps are not cooler in the days or weeks the fuel consumption is not lower than during the same temps at other times of the year. Plenty fleets of HGV's and Company vans and cars with Managers that know what their vehicles use fuel wise and by the weather up and down the UK. You are getting the Cetane you pay for. ................ With e5 petrol it is not the same nation wide and many have no idea what they get, but they get the minimum octane of 97 ron or 99 ron, maybe better, but not lower. The E10 is 95 ron min, and might well be higher as less hygroscopic as this is what the winter formulation requires. The tanker was delivering the first winter fuel that year when i took the picture and i filled up there on my way away places and on my way back and was getting better economy than the weeks up to then as the weather was warmer that October and November than in September and August. But then i know the mpg i get in what ever i am driving doing the same routes in what ever directions at the different times of years, weather and if day time or during the night, and i know the time so speed i am doing. *Ask your usual filling station staff when their deliveries change from Summer to winter diesel.* They might not know anymore than most drivers know. Consider journey differences by time of year / seasons and ambient temps so regen frequency when looking at the fuel efficiency. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/456194-low-fuel-consumption-16tdi-dpf-engine

I'm technically the third owner of my car as it was a failed lease contract. I've owned it since it had twenty four miles on the clock. The two previous owners were VW & VWFS. When I took it in for its first service, I was pleasantly surprised that the car came into my possession with a three service plan, already paid for, that I'd had nothing to do with 👍 Gaz

If you want to know more regarding the new layout for Android Auto it's called Coolwalk UI. I was part of the beta and had this UI for about 3 months, it's a big improvement over the previous version and more like what Apple is doing with CarPlay. Waze doesn't currently support CoolWalk but the beta version has added support, this mean it will be public soon. Unfortunately Skoda and all MIB3 systems still eat away about 1cm of the upper part of the screen with that useless black bar at the top just to house the notification slider.

I must admit to have been checking my fuel consumption regularly over the last 30 years ( not when I had a company car & fuel card though), and as you mentioned I never noticed much of a difference when driving a petrol car only diesel.

The consumer rights act recourse after 6 months is not quite as literal as you might assume. The principles that underpin it are as described, satisfactory quality and fitness for purpose. Certainly things are more straight forward within 6 months. There's not much onus on the purchaser to prove anything other than show the faulty item / behaviour. After 6 months, the onus falls to the purchaser to prove. But that doesn't mean you need a scan at putchase date showing that very same fault was always present, sure that would do it, but my opinion is it is more open than that. So, for example, if there is a design or manufacture issue that causes a reasonable number of vehicles to fail in the same way, prematurely, and a tpi might go part way in establishing that, then the fault was a vulnerability from purchase, and it was just a question of when... so you could say the fault vulnerability was present from outset. I don't think a failure of that magnitude within a( few years?) Of your purchasng it, show the product was fit for purpose at sale. You can try and put this to your selling dealer yourself and guage response. Some sort of engineers report acknowledging the issue is a known early failure item would help establish the requirements of the act. If they play hardball then a lawyer's letter, small claims court process may assist if the facts support recourse.. of course if they are resistant you have to way up the hassle factor and time and take a call.... https://www.theaa.com/car-buying/legal-rights

I'll try to attach a word doc I sketched out quickly this morning showing point to point connectivity between each connector downstream of the main 28-way. It was created from a mixture of 'buzzing out' and viewing circuits, from a 2012 car. Will find and add exact loom part number when I'm not sitting outside a pub in the sunshine! There are a bunch of pics of each connector to go with the tables. To be continued... Mirror switch.docx