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Clamped into place, it's almost in the right position, just needs a tap with a hammer here and there. Started tack welding it in, using a broken seam / pulse welding so the weld runs around the complete repair. Hopefully your repair will as good as this, if not better. Mindful to keep the horizontal line on the sill as straight as possible. The patch is also attached through the plug welds to the inner sill, don't forget that one. Still got the lower edge of the wing to repair of course but that's a simple enough one. It stil needs more grinding at this point but I'm waiting on a finger grinder (power file) to get into the corners. Near impossible with round discs! And this one gives you an idea of how much the patch went in, I really couldn't leave the corrosion in. Once the wing is repaired I'll add the smallest amount of filler, prime and reseal the lower sill edge to keep the rust out. So that update with paint to come at some point but this is awkward job really, the rest is pretty straight forward really. Hopefully these pics give others an idea of what to expect and how I went about with the repair. Rich

Clumber Park earlier this evening ......

Industrial sunset:

Hi all, Here is my yellow Octavia vRS soon to be turned into a track ready daily driver. Plan is to fit my old S3 engine (AMK on 90k miles), 6 speed box with quaife LSD, bilstein coilovers, fully polybushed, and 4 pot brembos with 2 piece 330mm discs. Alot of work ahead but should be a good track car when done and will be used as a daily aswell. Not going full track car with it as want it to be usable still although I know the ride will be somewhat harsh for normal roads.

New backbox is here and on Looks a lot nicer All the rubbers are fine so no point getting new ones. Really straight underneath for being 30 year old. Jacked it up on the rear to try drain some out of the tank.

No Warranty after the Remap is done. What anyone says on an Airfilter means nothing, especially since they have no idea where the vehicle might be used, as all that matters is it is clean / fresh. I would have at least looked at the spark plugs but since out changed them a few hundred miles before a remap. Try Tesco Momentum 99. We get good stuff in Scotland. 99 minimum. it can be 100 / 100+.

Having tried looking everywhere for the leak. Got the windscreen taken out and refitted. End of problem,no more leaks it was the windscreen all the time

Part 2 of the sill welding With the patch almost ready I added the lower lip to the repair piece. Holes for the spot welds drilled along the bottom edge and where it touches the inner sill section. Sprayed the inside with a weld-thru zinc primer and offered into place with some Molegrips. ...and that's all I can show you as I'm out of storage space! 😕 But it's all welded in nicely and welds ground back. Went in pretty nicely really.

Hi @toot, It wasn't ecotune, I went to the guy I know for the last 5 years, he is based in Glasgow, MartinAutoClinic, ha has done previously couple of diesel cars I owned and I was happy with his work. The petrol I use is e5 Shell V-Power but air filter and spark plugs were not changed, the car has only done 14k miles. Warranty is great to have but will it cover chipped engine and DSG? I doubt that. The car is on extended Skoda warranty for another 1.5 year, even though it is on 69 plate. Air filter I will change in a couple of thousand miles during my next service, I will do it even if Skoda says it does not need to be done until 40k miles for example. The car initial test had shown to have 152bhp and 241.3Nm torque, after remap we achieved 172bhp and 323Nm, I wanted to go with save numbers so not too overload a gearbox. I also did a DSG remap. After 40 minutes of driving home I honestly did not see much difference, for example with diesel engines I noticed the difference straight away, with petrol not so much, it does look like the car picks up better from 50-60mph but during normal driving I can't really tell the difference, weird. May be something to do with the engine being petrol or I just don't want to floor it! lol Even picking up kids from school the car behaved as usual, may be gearbox need time to adjust? May be I need to change air filter and plugs? Will give it a few more days and have guts to properly floor it. I also not sure if my fuel consumption will be affected, with diesel engines the fuel actually got better but with petrol who knows, will see. I remember that my automatic diesel BMW after remaping stopped changing gears from 3rd to 2nd on some hills as it had enough added torque to pull the car through, with Karoq, the same roads and the same driving experience as it was before remapping. I trust the guy, he has very modern dyno road and he spent 3.5 hours playing with the car so do not think he just took my money and did nothing.

That one in Dundee might not be available any more 😜

Just got an update, about my eTEC Style estate, with DSG and dynamic sport pack (I ordered it on April 2021 – soon it’s going to be 2 years). Quick recap of my history: after 16 months of waiting, the car was built according to the previously confirmed built week in mid-October. At that time, I thought that my torture finally ends, but since, the car is unfinished and waiting for a semi-conductor (4 months now). Because the factory's status giving ended in November (after the supposed delivery week, (which is 4 weeks after the built week) the car’s status entered into a black hole, with no new info since. To get something to hold on to, the dealer contacted the importer, and one of the importer's representatives were at the factory to negotiate the stuck "old" cars (including mine). The simple, and sour answer from the factory was that Skoda is expecting new supply of chips to arrive by the end of Q1 2023 – and that's it. So, we don't know if this means a possible end-of-Q1 delivery of the car, or "just" the arrival of the spare parts, with a delivery after this, in a couple of weeks. And a frustrating addition to this is that many other cars are in the same situation. The guy who was at the factory said that thousands of cars are waiting for parts since October.

Or “let me just lie and say I’ll check with my Manager… who, even if I actually asked them, knows less that I do”.

Here, thoroughly emphasised for you:

You clearly failed to use the link I provided to actually look at the post @DBSurrey meant. The one where there's a table of intervals in Skoda's own info, with a - (dash) against the interval for petrol 1.5s in non-dusty countries, meaning no interval specified.

Hybrids are where the biggest delays are. I ordered on the last days of August '21 for a SE L estate and I've got an unconfirmed build week for this summer. "Yes, we have got an estimated date for your car to go into build, finally! It's currently showing August but until the build date is confirmed the dates will move backwards and forwards slightly. At the moment, if it stays in an August build we would hope to see your car come through for October, but hopefully the build date will move forward." If it delivers in October that's 20 months longer than initially quoted and well over two years since the order was put in. Personally I'm in a position where waiting is absolutely fine. It's a 3 year business lease, the costs are well below all the current figures for car leasing and I own a car at the moment which is decent enough.

There's no other solution for the mib2s.

You need to buy a dongle like this... https://aawireless.io/ If you've got any questions let me know. I've been using it for over a year for androidauto. They're currently making this same dongle work with carplay, but it's still in beta stages.

So there we go. 83 weeks after initial order I took the delivery According to the spreadsheet I am so far winning the 'delay edition' competition. Weather was pretty awful, so no good pics and the car got dirty immediately Anyway, quite happy with it so far. Lot's of things to tweak and annoying behavior when having to manage multiple users with Skoda app and in-car. But otherwise so far so good.

That appears to be module 05 for keyless rather than module 5F which should be the headunit

Good work going on here, as always. Lovely to see the proverbial wheels in motion.

Unfortunately you won't be able to update it as Skoda withdrew support a couple of years ago and the website that you used for the updates was closed down.

My understanding is that it was intended to slowly add silicates, extending the anti-corrosion properties of the coolant. Can cause serious issues to waterways if (when) the bag fails. Coolant should require shorter replacement intervals without the bag.

Truth be told I'm considering myself lucky to have got it done so easily and at such resonable cost and, given the loom lasted 12 years I don't think I'm gonna worry about the next 12 years. I'm hoping the nearside door doesn't suffer the same fate in the near future but am reassured that it can get fixed if it does.

It depends what you’re used to but i would def. recommend it because every bit of torque extra is always a good thing! My wife is liking it very much! For me it was just ok.. (a bit spoiled with lots of torque) I’ve had my Golf 2.0 TDI dsg (DQ250) tuned and it was an amazing difference. Same for my 2.0 TDI Caddy. Hope you’ll like it. Please let me know how you’re car feels after the tuning!

I'm of the opposite opinion and really like it, looks quite plain without it. Good job we're all different otherwise there would be one model only!

The car was factory ready for 95 Octane E5 or E10. But if you are in the UK you were not using E10 before September 2021. Last winter your E10 being sold might not have had 10% Ethanol in it, this winter maybe not either. For an extra £3 or less to put in a tank of E5 it is worth a try since other having misfire issues this winter have felt the benefit. The Petrol on sale in the UK just now since late October until March is Winter Formulation which should make no difference to how a TSI runs, maybe even having them run better. There are mentions that they are not though, but then that might just be a coincidence and nothing to do with E10. A higher octane can reduce emissions and not just with a GTI / R VW engine. http://volkswagen.co.uk/en/need-help/need-help-faqs/fuel.html 388380a097b04fe693a8c27db8bb4974 (1).pdf 6ca06d648b9541e78fa838fece4a1a23 (1).pdf

My understanding is that the % limit on alternator charging is to allow capacity for regenerative charging - under those conditions, there could be a possibility of overcharging the battery.

Hi, welcome to the forum. I assume this this a diesel? Yes, there is a rev-limiter when transmission is in neutral. Steering wheel symbol will be for some problem with power steering, although could possibly be low battery charge. If steering rack faulty, probably expensive. Is this being sold by a dealer - if so, what do they say about the fault lights?

The seat probably needs the basic settings doing to learn the various end stops. I've done it with ODIS before but not tried with VCDS. The headunit probably needs an adaption channel or two changing, post an adaption map from 5F.

I finaly did it, update to 0253T was succesfull. And Today I changed with OBD11 Module : 5F. (Information Control Unit) Adaptation Vehicle Configuration Google_GAL=active Apple_DIO = active Now MirrorLink AQndroidAuto AppleCarPlay are availiable from SmartlinkMenu Thanks Varoom

Fill the tank with E5 97 or 99 ron minimum and see how things are if you are using E10. Is the Air Filter clean / fresh, replaced, and has it had new Spark Plugs? Well due new plugs if not already replaced. EDIT. Sorry i was repeating myself. But it still applies. It is the basic stuff to do before going deeper into looking at issues. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/510887-10-tsi-cold-start-juddering

Allesandu, looking at your location I’d say pitted brake discs are the least of your worries. Good luck.

Are U guys talking about the factory fitted wireless charger, or the aftermarket one that is connected to the USB-C of the car? On the stock (factory) charger there's no problem with the size of the S22 Ultra. I used one for a while but reverted to an S21 Ultra (I couldn't stand the sharp corners of the S22 and S23 design). Anyway, they both comfortably fit inside the charging space with some room to spare - the phone will even move from side to side if one goes a bit faster on a curvy road. FYI, for longer trips I'm only using the cable charging - this way the phone stays cold; with the wireless charging it gets really hot, plus the fact that it's starting and stopping charging depending on how it moves inside that space, and you get those messages that @lost_npc mentioned... 2xUSB-C ports in front, 2xUSB-C ports for the rear passengers... In case you need a 12V for other purposes (as I did) you might also use an adapter connected tot the 12V socket in the trunk of the car. Not ideal, but that's in case you don't want to connect directly into the fuse box inside the car.

Simple enough then. Get Skoda / VW Group approved repairers or Skoda UK Customer Services to confirm in writing that is the Recommendation, Guidelines or Schedule they are going with. Then you take your pick on what you want to do as you run your 5 year and older 1.5 TSI ACT 150 ps vehicle in the UK.

Why can't they make basic small hatches that the vast majority want and can maybe afford? I don't really want a crossover / SUV, a medium sized estate would be great for the main car. For an 'entry level' car, why not make a Polo sized hatchback? The UP sized city car EVs sold / sell like hot cakes despite VW's best efforts to kill it off and second hand ones still command good prices. That is the small city EV they need to build as there is clearly demand. A Polo sized small car would be in demand also I think. ID.3 takes care of the Golf sized segment (even though they promise an EV golf in future). Cars need to get smaller.

Thanks for the link Toot

Press and hold down the button marked OFF on the bottom left of the centre console. That will turn off the Traction Control, ASC and the Front Assist Radar for some reason. It's also what you do to prepare for using the Launch Control. I only ever disable it when I'm really pressing on. It prevents the ASC from momentarily cutting reducing the power on bumpy corners which can be very annoying.

0.02 degree, was looking at same catalog just the other day. With you on your call to suspend the belts on ACT versions.

I've never read so much junk in all my life; - replacing the speakers cannot be "detected" without physically opening up the door and checking! This type of nonsense is typical of dealership service advisors, who in reality, know SFA about cars anyway, and is completely unnecessary scaremongering and anybody with an ounce of technical nouse would laugh at whoever came out with that little gem! I probably wouldn't replace 4ohm drivers with 2ohm, but then again, I don't know of many 2ohm drivers either, so that's a moot point anyway. The reason you shouldn't change impedance is purely to avoid additional extra load on the output stage of the amplifier module, however most aftermarket speakers are 4ohm anyway so that's fine. As for this invalidating your warranty - I'd love to see that stand up in a court of law. What utter tosh; if you uprate the brakes, that does not invalidate the warranty on your seat heaters!

This is interesting. My car - 2016 Mk.III, 1.0 TSI - narrowly passed its MOT last month. CO emissions were right on the limit. It has since developed a juddering in first gear, when cold. The car has just under 50k miles, and does mixed city/motorway miles. It routinely returns between 50mpg (city) and 60mpg (motorway). Long-term average is 55mpg. I am thinking there might be an issue with the lambda sensor, or perhaps carbon build-up in the admission valves. Probably the sensor, to be honest. The car is going to the mechanic next week for diagnostic. Let’s see what they say!

My new steering wheel arrived hopefully I can get the buttons operating the mfd, watching a couple of airbags just have to wait a month or so

Interested to see what this'll look like once welded, and then tidied up again.

Spectacular sky this evening (and a gratuitous Jag picture!).........

Been a while, busy renovating and building.. though managed to get to Knockhill today for a Rally event. A few shots below.

Well, its been a week, nothing in the post and the uk speed camera map shows no fixed camera where I, I mean my friend drove

Not on some DSG's, like DQ200's, like on a Mk2 Fabia vRS or others. Needs to be in D to go to the left.

So first 30 mins of a diagnostic at participating dealers is £60. ? Has this 1.0 TSI got a GPF. If it needs fixed it needs fixed. PS. Re. RECALL,. Do they mean a Recall Action, Service Campaign, a TPI? As there was no RECALL. As in registered keeper informed to bring in their cars. PS UK warranties 3 years. First MOT at 3 years from first registered. 2018 car has had a MOT or 2. EDIT. I See that in February 2023 it shows as £100 for first 30 Minutes.

Braver than me driving a car this heavy on ice. Fair play. Well done👍

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Murdockman posted whilst I was still typing. One thing I would say don't bother with WD-40 Multi-Use instead get a can of GT85 and it will disperse the water and is a better lubricant than WD-40 Multi-Use and doesn't contain silicone which some say can coat the paintwork, GT85 has PTFE. ETA: It will also help to ease the rubber back into place.

UPDATE The outside temperature dropped by some 5-10 degrees. The BCM started to command the alternator to charge harder (for the same electrical load I have used for the last 2 weeks). The voltage on battery stays at 14.7-15.1V 90% of the drive time. In the morning I have measured a higher and higher voltage. Today the voltage was 12.4V. We're getting there... My conclusion so far is that the firmware in the BCM seems to know how to handle the SOC of the battery. Not having access to the firmware source is a drawback but given the proper free time I could deduct the charging strategy by studying relevant logs.