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Hello all, So after ordering my new VRS and waiting 14 months for it. My 4x4 Diesel Octavia VRS has arrived and I absolutely love it. I have spec'd it up and to be fair I'm glad I did. The 1 thing I did forget to spec up which my previous Octavia had was the raised floor and adding the HUD although wasn't fussed about it when I did my test drive, until I realised I didn't order it. The black one is my previous car, Thankfully due to covid I bought the ex demo that couldn't be test driven, which I believe has quite a few options that are extra if you by one new, This one only has a 9170 since I bought it in 2020. I couldn't get over the fact the 2 car's drive so differently even though they're likely to have the same engine. Anyway one happy customer right here. No complaints so far! Just have to work out how I'm going to feed the nextbase rear camera wire through the roof lining. Cheers all.

After 10 years of Skoda ownership, covering a Fabia vRS, Octavia vRS and finally the Superb Sportline Plus, it's time to say farewell. Whilst not a prolific poster here on the forums, I've really enjoyed reading about people's experiences, ownership journeys, and advice. The Superb replacement is very different - a Jaguar F-Type R coupe. It certainly doesn't have the space of the Superb 🤣 Thank you everyone for making this a fun place to be an owner and hope everyone continues to enjoy these great cars.

I have a full answer to this, but TL:DR AutoHold is a game-changer on this issue and my car doesn't have it. That said.... As I'm sure you know, the DSG is a dual clutch gearbox that operates automatically. It's far different to a traditional automatic gearbox. While the DSG offers the convenience of a traditional automatic, with improved fuel economy and the ability to shift gears more quickly than a manual gearbox, it has the same basic operation as a traditional gearbox, though with two clutches and two banks of gears. Gears 1, 3, 5, (and maybe 7) on one bank, and gears 2, 4, 6 (and maybe 8 ) on the other. Pre-selecting the next gear with the clutch disengaged on the other bank of gears to the one in use with the clutch engaged, is what gives the DSG its speed advantage. To change gear, the active bank disengages its clutch, and at almost precisely the same time, the inactive bank engages its clutch and the car has changed gear. The DQ381 gearbox and manual handbrake set-up on my 2019 car is not one of the very latest gearboxes, and so it still needs to be driven with some of the considerations that should be would used when driving a manual gearbox. I suspect the newer gearboxes featuring electronic handbrakes with AutoHold really do not need to be taken out of drive mode when at the lights, and are perfectly happy sat there for some time with the clutch completely disengaged. As I indicated originally, my gearbox does not completely disengage the clutch when stationary in drive. The Octavia manual does not need to change, because it tells drivers what they may do, without prescriptively telling them what they should do. So for me "The selector lever position N does not have to be selected if stopping for a short time, such as at cross roads." means "Don't worry about burning out the clutch on the 1,3,5,7 bank of gears waiting at a junction in drive, so long as you're only going to be riding the clutch for a short time." For cars with AutoHold, "The selector lever position N does not have to be selected if stopping for a short time, such as at cross roads." means "Don't worry about burning out the clutch because you can't, but it's probably a good idea for road safety to put the car in neutral and bung the handbrake on if you're going to be sat for a while." On mine, the gear selector and handbrake are big levers that invite use. On the cars with electronic handbrakes and AutoHold, the gear selector and handbrake controls are reduced to switches, which are not intended to be used in the same way, because they don't need to need to be. AutoHold does automatically what I have to do manually. As I seem to be getting a hint of rheumatism in my elbow, if that gets much worse, I may start to think of electronic handbrakes and AutoHold as very good ideas. In summary, I suspect a few of us have been talking at cross purposes here, without fully understanding the intricacies of the vehicles involved. I certainly didn't know about AutoHold at the start of this thread. There have probably been a few people who understood the difference between cars with and without AutoHold, who were wondering what we were arguing about. Oh well, hopefully this thread has shed some light on the issue and we managed to do it without anyone getting angry about it. Lovely! 😊

So... For those who may be interested.... I just did the exact same route in my old civic for comparison! I do believe it's certainly a different delivery of power. The civic is flat u till about 2.2k revs then wanes off around 4k, VRS felt like it had power from zero but to about 3k. Coming off the roundabout going up the steep hill in civic was similar and it hit the same point where the vrs struggled, but it did keep going and felt faster going up the hill. Just felt like it had more puff! The return small incline starts at traffic lights onto a perfect straight of dual carriageway that's on a small incline, the civic felt like a bus doing this in comparison. So slow! The VRS felt (and was) much quicker/more powerful. I'm sure I looked at the same point and the vrs was a good 20/25 mph ahead where the civic was. So my very technical analysis so far (can you tell I'm not very experienced in the technical world of cars!) is that the power delivery is different with the civic feeling like it can keep going a bit more when going uphill, but the majority of other areas the VRS was more fun and fast! I'll update when I check air filter and the other bits etc

Colourful sunset (out near Carburton) earlier. Full Moon tonight, which was very yellow when it first came up, but disappeared behind a cloud before I could get a photo 😕

I get the conspiracy theory doing the rounds that those Chinese companies who make those electrical components and Lithium etc batteries that all EVs need in their production that the supply of such components will continue to be prioritized to the massive, all encompassing Chinese companies rather than Western ones. Western automotive companies, to survive, need either to have their own battery and electrical component divisions or do a joint venture deal with the Chinese, or they will not survive. I worry it might be such that we are bound to lose companies like Jaguar, unless they get bought my the Chinese as was Volvo, and even the giants like Renault, Stellantis and VW have to adapt or die.

I know someone with one in South Ayrshire. They had a 28 kW, swapped for a BMW i3 and were disappointed and went to a Ioniq 38 kW. They are not impressed and that is on ECO tyres and driving solo. Their 28 kW was more efficient. No way will they do 180 miles on winter or all weather tyres with people in the car and comfortable even if you stay at speeds less than others are doing around you. Good local runabouts though. Crap rear visibility with those that can not wait to be getting passed you and maybe not go any quicker, and that is often EV drivers.

FYI found this pic on another thread. Not exact same model but looks like they all work the same way:

And this is the rub I think and much as I revel in my Zoe ZE50 it winter performance of 3 miles per kWh, 3.5 in the Autumn and Spring and only 4 miles plus per kWh in summer is a bit of an issue when one needs to do 250 mile round trips any time of the year and the Megane E, with its 64 or so kWh hence the Ariya. I thought I would not go back to VAG but both the 80 kwh Born and Nyak are worth a consideration but always being measured against TESLA of course. UK is out of step with much of the rest of world. If not direct subsidies as I got with my Zoe, with dealer discount as well as the government bung and what one now can regard as very cheap PCP interest rate ie 3.9% APR it has made sense and although me and my lad are only doing 8k miles a year, nowhere near your 16k or so, I have left we have done something to lower our carbon footprint. There is a EV tsunami coming where their price is falling like a stone due to much lower production costs everywhere but particularly in China, Australia is already seeing it with BYD, 比亚迪股份有限公司, Build Your Dreams, which the Chinese seem to get much more than Western car companies and like MG they will wipe the floor with Western car makers, as can be seen by recent car production and sales figures across the world. There are are several other large Chinese manufacturers who will also contend. All Europe can do is have an anti-dumping meeting and perhaps up the import duties to protect European car producers a little longer but the Chinese will find a way ie use Turkey or the like to find a cheaper way in to our domestic car market. We need to reduce our carbon quickly, EVs and cheap heat pumps seem the way forward to me.

I think that is what I have, a Podpoint Solo, only cost me £449 to install but it is only a 3.6 kw charger but that has worked out fine. I am thinking of a Tesla for my next EV, I tried the Megane-E, which is a sister car of the Ariya, which was OK but not enough of a big step up from the ZE50 Zoe but the Ariya would be I think, if the price ie the £56K for the 87 kwh battery one, comes down similar to Tesla price drops.

I'm driving an iV (hybrid), so that doesn't really apply.

Trolling a tad aren't you J.R. ?

Evening all, just purchased my new Fabia monte carlo. Should be taking delivery of it in the next couple of weeks! It will be my second after 5 years of owning a 2014 model. Will post a pic of my old one/ new one!! Cheers!!

As long as they never cleared them. If there were fault codes they should be passing them onto the dealership.

Don't 'ya just hate it when something you want to be sceptical about works 🙄 Many years ago I had a particularly nasty ingrown toenail. My osteopath at the time wanted to treat it with acupuncture. My response was nope, as there was no way on god's green earth acupuncture made any sense in treating something as physical an injury. A couple of weeks later, with it getting worse, I yielded. Six treatments and just over a fortnight later it had completely recovered. Still doesn't compute to me. He said I could've expedited the recovery if I'd soaked it in urine, as he recommended, but I declined to do, even though I could understand the science behind that bit. Gaz

All the best in the future.

@mauritto + - monthly updates -> https://www.drive2.ru/l/642771475014635662/

thanks @toot, 1. Drove a long journey, briefly parked the car to unload and turned the engine off. 2. Got back in the car after unloading to drive it to the car park. Started it in P and shifted to D. Pulled off fine but wouldn’t shift out of first gear, despite the revs being 4,000+. 3. Did the same thing the next morning, then suddenly fixed itself, but all the warning lights then came on.

Funny you tag me in this! im just pricing a clutch replacement up for my partners polo which is a DQ200. it’s not a straight forward job like a manual, you need special tools and the clutch needs shimming correctly to prevent early failure. I would say you are looking around £1000 in a garage for a clutch replacement + the cost of the flywheel A genuine clutch can be had for around £500 at trade. Most places charge £600 for a clutch replacement with the box already out (including parts) so you just have to add the cost of removing the box itself.

I consider myself a fairly grounded person, not superstitious (touch wood), pragmatic and a believer in scientific principles.... and then something happens that seems at odds to expectations. My balls of my feet had been increasingly painful after a several high step count days at work interspersed with runs on my days off. I was not sure if it was a fracture, a neuroma, or my plantar fasciitis playing up but I was worried about whether I would actually make it to work the next day as I could barely hobble. The wife suggested I bathed my feet in a bowl of warm water with Epson Salts and had set it up before I could register my disbelief in its efficacy. So twenty minutes later I dried my feet and stood up.... and they felt a hell of lot better, and by the next morning were feeling completely normal. I do know it is an accepted treatment, or recovery procedure for some but since it is not proven that magnesium can be absorbed through skin I was quite sceptical. I still am but somehow it worked incredibly well on this occasion. I guess if it happens again I should just bathe the feet without the salts, for science

Flat battery or charging system not working correctly?

Around 2007 I had a hankering for a manual diesel estate as a company car. There were suddenly several imported options available as the local Australian diesel fuel requirements had improved to match the European standards. A test drive of a Mazda 6 2.2L with its 400Nm of torque proved to be a bit boisterous with torque steer and spinning the front wheels in third on a damp road was off-putting. Long story short I went for a 1.9pd mk2 Octavia with its 'mighty' 77kw/270Nm diesel donk. While it was slow off the line I never found it underpowered when moving, it could accelerate up a long 12% gradient in top gear while only sucking at 12L/100, so overtaking in top gear on the flat was a breeze. I rarely had to change gear on long journeys. The interesting thing is that after seven years I eventually sold it to a young couple replacing their WRX who lived in the Adelaide Hills and they rang me about a week after the purchase to say how delighted they were with the performance, economy and car in general, which was gratifying but totally unexpected considering their performance car.

Your CAN gateway is a right mess... Has it been swapped or replaced at some point? I would be tempted to sort the installation list as it's expecting lots of modules that aren't present.

From someone who's just said they deliberately stamp on their brakes when the car behind gets too close? "Better to remain silent and be thought a fool rather than to speak and remove all doubt" .

No. It's green. I made a separate post about it two days ago. Took the car to the inspection centre and when they returned it, the error was there.

I have AutoHold but I don't use it. 😂 Thanks for a long post. I think I need to try this AutoHold function and see if I can maybe incorporate it in my driving style or better say in my driving habits. Maybe I could get used to that.

I have tried the Norwegian forum to find answers to my questions, but Norway is a tiny marked with few cars of any specific model and trim level. I hope for better luck here, with a larger user base.

Hei, Welcome. Hopefully we can collectively answer, you can share back to the Norwegian forums too.

If you are okay driving at 60mph, sure. I don't think even cars known for their efficiency (Ioniq (classic) or Model 3) can achieve that at 70 mph in cold weather. But if you are looking at efficiency, Ioniq 38 kWh is worth considering? Should do 180 miles.

If you are talking about your infotainment system, then it's via USB or SD Card (depends on the system) You would need to hold down the Menu or Setup button for 10 seconds to enter the engineering menu, and locate Software Train, then post image if this is the update you want.

my previous 2016. CHHB 162 kW got extra 1. extra rubber sealing around perimeter (Ali) 2. Oil Filler Cap Extender 06K 103 281 A (OE) 3. Washer Tank Cover 6V0 955 485 (Ali)

Yes there will be a stored error that won't affect operation of the unit. It can be cleared with VCDS and generating a checksum. Yes

@lol-lolI have been looking at, sitting in and having a wee drive in a few cars to see what suits me. Took the e-Megane out and got 3.5 miles per kW, same as I did in a Cupra Born when I drove one. 4 x 60 kWh being 240 miles is OK but 3.5 miles per kWh is really not great. On way home from having had the test drive I got 3.7 miles a kWh in the Corsa. If it had 55 kWh usable battery it would make all the difference for me. Before I went to Perth and back my car was on 50500 miles and adding up all I have paid at chargers with CPS or by card it is under £500. That is pretty much the end of running for nearly free sadly. This weekend I have grandchildren and dog and stuff to care for so taking my son's BMW 520 diesel estate because of the big dog but even if it was just the kids I would not be taking the Corsa when it would need at least 4 charges for me over the weekend. An Easter weekend might just be as bad as it could be if there is charger magedon. Now 10*oC and if i was to head off to Edinburgh now i might actually be OK for 150 miles. Tomorrow if early and cooler maybe the same as traffic will slow things, but you need to be ready to divert if there are accidents. So i need to get charged before getting kids and dog and car, and then leave it parked so 30 mins charging maybe. Then before coming home again another maybe 20-30 mins will do it. If i could get 180 miles it would be simple but first i need to find a comfy car. Front wheel drive and doing good economy on All Weather tyres. Heated seat and steering wheel. No shiny plastic. So not a Cupra Born & not a e-Megane. And available from Motability for not loads of Advance Payment. So maybe 2024 there will be something. FWD with 60 kWh usable battery and 4 miles to the kWh in cold weather on the motorway would be lovely,

The mk2 Superb doesn't have a silica bag in the coolant. That came on the newer models, from I think the mk3 Octavia.

Certainly, why should it be a secret? Google Skoda Crewe and their details are there. However, looking at your location it may be a bit far!

Hmm I think I need to have a talk with the dealer then 😅 But thanks a lot for the response MN @varooom Again, thanks a lot for the assistance. You two do some serious good work. Much appreciated!

In the midlands as well, but car has had a lot of owners so prob been all over the place

But you should compare apples to apples. Fitting those same wheels and tyres from the 2WD Kodiaq to the 4x4 version would likely result in even more capability. It is also worth noting that the Haldex system has benefits beyond ice and snow i.e wet and slippery surfaces but also on dry roads, gravel, or mud / wet grass and when towing, or when on the fringes of maintaining control, in an emergency situation for example.

That’s how it is on my VRS that has these unlocked as standard.

Here's the promised update guys and gals! My Karoq went into the dealer on Tuesday morning bright and early at 8:15 am. I got a call about 12:30 to say that it was going to take a little longer than expected so could they keep the car until today (Wednesday). I agreed as we have alternative transport. I admit I was a little concerned at this point that they'd hit a problem! However, I received a call this morning at about 9:30am to say the car was now ready and I picked it up at lunchtime. Cost as quoted - £599 which is a lot of money I know but better than a new engine I feel. I hope this info is of use to any reader who is approaching the 5 year point as there have been some very high figures quoted for the job. Perhaps £599 sets the benchmark you should be looking at if you decide to get it done. I did as I have had a cam belt go in the past. Luckily it was a company car but the repair bill was staggering and I was glad I didn't have to pay it.

This is almost reading as you would have a manual transmission and not a DSG. Doing this is taking away almost all advantages of having an automatic transmission.

You can't just go sticking any wheels on a car. Wheel dimensions & offsets are carefully calculated & matched to suit a car's handling characteristics. Changing the alloys for some from another car risks changing the handling of the car. It could also cause ESP & ABS issues. If you subsequently have an accident your insurers may take a very dim view of you using non-standard wheels on the car.

According to the manual: "Stopping temporarily (e.g. at a junction): Leave the selected mode D/S and secure the vehicle with the brake pedal. (Also se autohold below) Stopping: Keep the brake pedal depressed. Secure the vehicle with the parking brake. Choose the P mode. Turn off the engine. NB: When turning off the engine in mode D, S or R then mode P is automatically selected. Autohold: With Stop, the vehicle is automatically secured using Auto Hold. Auto Hold lights up in the instrument cluster. The brake pedal can be released. With Start, the vehicle is automatically released using Auto Hold." Seems simple enough. No need to complicate it. If following the manual would actually damage the car, I guess Skoda would be looking into some serious legal trouble....... According to the manual: "Stopping temporarily (e.g. at a junction): Leave the selected mode D/S and secure the vehicle with the brake pedal. (Also se autohold below) Stopping: Keep the brake pedal depressed. Secure the vehicle with the parking brake. Choose the P mode. Turn off the engine. NB: When turning off the engine in mode D, S or R then mode P is automatically selected. Autohold: With Stop, the vehicle is automatically secured using Auto Hold. Auto Hold lights up in the instrument cluster. The brake pedal can be released. With Start, the vehicle is automatically released using Auto Hold." Seems simple enough. No need to complicate it. If following the manual would actually damage the car, I guess Skoda would be looking into some serious legal trouble.......

Thanks all. I cannot find the 'mark as solution' button I have been prompted about so I will close it here. It seems that the 'shallow' version of the box (the A version of the part number used with the insert for the detachable hitch) is for 2WD and the deeper version designed for a battery is for 4WD. Thanks again for your help.

Plenty done this weekend Drivers side splash guard has been changed. And 2 new Meyle Balljoints put on. Only the drivers needed replacing but they're cheap and easy to do so did both. Done in 40 minutes. The drivers side one was BAD and it was only on 6 months. Was mentioned by the nct tester when it was tested last month, and it had just started knocking then. Should not have passed like that imo. The passengers side was absolutely fine. And FINALLY, I've got my hands on a Garrett GTC1549VZ, a CR170 turbo. Looks to have been recently rebuilt, the core looks very fresh. Might still be worth dropping it off at someone who knows what they're looking at, just to be sure its been rebuilt right. Had been looking at a hybridised XMan version but the person selling that wouldn't post it, unfortunate. And I took it to Dubshed too, If youre up before 11 you can get into the show and shine outside. I was put out in the nosebleeds. Only found out they have a car wash on site once I was up there, I'll know for next year. Bit funny trying to explain to people that its not a vrs but a 1.6 diesel and that no, I didn't put that bodykit on it's standard. Was a great day anyway. May have found someone there who can map in this new turbo when it goes on. So on top of juggling the vrsdi, the justy and even just maintaining this, I'm going to try have that turbo on before June. And there's work to be done before that, Even though it was serviced in December it'll be due another service in about a month. Timing belts due so that'll be done then also. And I'll definitely be needing another 2 tyres before June. Much to do, no money to do it. What's new.

Listen Pal. I thought this forum is created for help by any means. Yes I might not have the knowledge about cars. But that don't mean? You speak to me like I'm stupid. I'm not a keyboard warrior? Just to let you know

Skoda UK might have to clarify the Fixed Price Servicing & Maintenance prices as it is now very complicated and it is Price on Application for many things including Cam Belts. The Book time for the job on a 1.5 TSI ACT and the actual cost of the work and if VW Group will need to subsidise / assist Dealerships doing the work might be something they have to consider. Lots of vehicles will be in the Used Car market including in the VW Group Dealership market requiring the Cam Belt replaced and it is quite an involved job going through the workshops.

This thread might help @mdfabia1969

Not much for me to do this time of year. So, for no reason at all. I got in my car this morning and drove to Dunmore head, the westernmost point of Ireland and back, in one day. I say nonstop, but once I got close I kept hopping out to see the sights. Intended on going down to Kerry for the weekend this summer. Obviously that did not happen. Really wanted to do the ring of kerry too, that didn't happen either but I came across something just as memorable. Thank you Waze. Conor Pass: This Pass goes right up and over the hills from Tralee to Dingle. Absolutely amazing road and I could not have picked a better time to go up it. Hard to show just how high this road goes. At the peak. Further on, Dunmore head. The westernmost point of Ireland. Picked a good time of year to do this trip. These roads must become hectic during summer. Did have to cross a very small, very bumpy ford. Really like the Spyders, more than the standard wheels if I'm honest. The tyres are as crap as ever but, they did really well navigating a lot of standing water on a certain stretch of motorway.

Soak it in a releasing agent. Bit of heat might help? Can you force a 'wrong' sized marginally smaller spanner on it? A BSW or AF perhaps? Stillsons, or a self tightening wrench? Could you file it to accept two sides of an open ended spanner? Weld a good nut on to it? Hammer and chisel to shock it around anti-clockwise? Grind the entire head off, and then replace it? Gaz