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A new version of UK brochure has been issued April 2023 Prices now £24,540 - 39,180 before options just 3 spec levels, with various engines, 3 manuals and 7 DSG giving 10 combinations, all available in hatch or estate There are 10 paint colours, but restricted to choice of 8 for each spec level https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/0bcfc2d5-654f-49b2-a524-91e141293e36 here is link to accessories brochure https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/43543ebe-b876-4be5-9692-5aa8d68b302b There is also a brochure covering all the models in SE technology spec, Octavia has a lower power diesel or same petrol engines. Some extra features over SE spec, but others features are more basic. Prices £24,820 - 29,715 https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/8db7a881-8116-4b2a-9848-47cfcb6ee0ea

Same here, sounds like much less grief.

Given what you've said I'd be drilling the hole in the sdi firewall...

Then 30 seconds later, check out the registration compared to the previous car on the the right. You’ll see the other two in the distance. I talked to the owner and she had owned it since new and it has been reliable. I wonder what the collective noun is for a group of Fabia Mk 1s? Maybe a swarm, or a pack or possibly a herd!!

It is air conditioning - not air cooling. AC should be used all year round whether hot or cold - its purpose is to dry the air, clean the air and cool the air. After this it passes through the heater matrix to set the correct temperature. By not using the AC you are allowing the system to become dry causing seals to weaken and split allowing leaks. Use air conditioning all year round as that is how it is designed to be used. Regarding the law, it is illegal to knowingly discharge a refrigerant gas into the atmosphere. No oxygen will be used to test the system - most places will run a simple vacuum pressure test to see if it holds pressure and although this will detect large leaks, it will almost be impossible to detect small leaks in the time they run the test, You need a OFN test which is oxygen free nitrogen, the system is pressurised to operating pressure with a gauge attached and the gauge is monitored over a matter of hours to detect a leak - OFN with a tracer gas is often used with a gas sniffer to determine the location of any leaks and pinpoint the component requiring repair or replacement.

Gotta love a great crested Grebe!

WHAT? who told you that? That really is utter bullsh1t…. this your oil-pick-up-pipe, the toothed wheel and the chain provide the pumps rotation, if the chain fails, you will have NO pressure at all. edit; you cannot check the oil pump without dropping the oilpan.

@Alanhipperson25, we rented a 1.2 litre Vauxhall Corsa when we visited the UK last September and the long term consumption for the last 6k miles under previous rentals was 22mpg! We averaged about 60mpg over about 2k miles and that included some inner and outer urban London driving so I would not take any notice of your long term figures and follow the good advice of others and find out what you actually get. I find it hard to believe how anyone could get that bad consumption in a 1.2tsi Fabia unless: Towing a caravan, or racing at Brands Hatch, or only ever doing 2 mile journeys to the shops! Other threads comparing the 1.2tsi to the later 1.0tsi suggested that the latter was slightly more economical but the former was nicer to drive being smoother and offering better low rev torque. As already suggested checking the car's bits like the air filter, spark plugs, tyre pressures, and for binding brakes will not do any harm. Another possible thing to check is the units of measure selected for the display as there is a (very) remote possibility that smaller US gallons have been accidentally selected instead of larger Imperial gallons? Be interesting to hear the results of your investigations

Visited Rutland Water earlier today. I struggled to get close to the Ospreys as they were the other side of the lake - clearly need a bigger camera!

New carb kit is finally delivered I just need to pick it up. Came all the way from Canada. Was not cheap so I ****ing hope its correct and not ripped. Anyway, was waiting for paint to dry so tinkered on this for a bit. Wirewheeled the brakes front and rear And gave em a lick of hammerite silver. Pointless since they're stuck behind 12 inch steelies but I'll know. Also had some spacers doing nothing so threw them on the rear. 5mm a side. I don't really want to tackle these wheels by myself with the surface rust. Don't think I can make them look "like new". So for now they can look original. May send them off to a professional somewhere down the line. And maybe buy some new wheel nuts. Also refitted the fuel filter assembly back on. Hopefully be running like a champ very soon.

Well just about given up on swapping the firewalls over. After breaking lots of tools and barely making a dent in it that is. I'm now intent on just making a hole in the one in the sdi. Put some dubshed stickers to good use. Good for hiding windscreen cracks. Cleaned up the subframe and Arb off the vrs, they were rough. Coated them in Kurust and then some hammered black same as before. Noticed one of the arb collars are missing, I'll just find something to wrap around it for now. Lot better than the scratched up, rusty subframe it was a few hours before. Using this subframe as it still has the dogbone nut intact. Had some hammerite left so wirewheeled and Cleaned off the knuckles and painted them in situ. Bit more presentable. Cleaned up the bores where the shocks go into and coated them in copper grease. They were a bit rusty inside but Cleaned up well. Went to paint the carriers and found out my tub of pantone 348 had gone off, so sulked and painted them silver instead.

Just pump the 205/55R16 tyre to 44psi once a year, when it's stored in the spare wheel well. Even if the spare tyre doesn't have a slow puncture, it will still slowly go down like any other tyre over time. After a year, the 44psi might have gone down to around 38psi. This is because no tyre is 100% air tight. With bicycle tyres, you might find that you have to pump them up every two weeks as they go down a lot quicker than car tyres. 38psi should still be enough to get you home, as you won't be driving fast, ie. not over 50mph. Even if they went down to as low as 35psi, I doubt that would cause you any problems getting home at 50mph. It's not like the tyres would overheat at such a slow speed even if the car was heavily loaded. Of course, with different tyre sizes on the same axle, you would want to be driving round corners at a gentle pace.

How about a “Rusting” of Fabias?

Yes it is in imperial (UK) mpg I will take it on a decent run tomorrow, and see what i get .

Picking mine up on Thursday (ordered 6/9/2022, I should be more excited but I will be so sorry to see my excellent mark 3,5 go.

Comes up well for a 2006 car that's a bit abused and living in Scotland. All it took was an early 2010s bottle TurtleWax's wash and wax, and some CarPlan Gloss stuff afterwards! \

It's been doing less mileage than usual, now that I'm not commuting as much, which is good. Gave it a wash though! As seen in 'Chuckle In Your Day', I applied that Scotland sticker as a "professional" body repair to hide a stone chip! Kwality!

Washed it for the first time since last year - I do few miles so it doesn't get that dirty. Please ignore the paint swirl marks, the whiteworm on the alloys and the bent chrome strip on the rear door. It is 7 years old after all 🙂 Of course I polished up the exhaust tips.

@Alanhipperson25 can you maybe say what power of 1.2 TSI it is, how many miles has as it done, how many miles you have done in it. Has it got new spark plugs, a new air filter and what tyres are fitted, size and type and set at what pressure,? And is the car empty apart from you? All rather important stuff in the economy in the not be dry cold Norfolk even this winter. Any published Economy figures are pre WLTP and just as much fiction. They were done in a building on a rolling road with a car that had at least 3,000 km on the clock.

You can get in through a grommet on the driver's side scuttle panel. You have to remove the windscreen wiper to get the panel off then you will see other cables going into the car through a grommet.

It's probably a draw of luck with Tesla, same with any dealership TBH. But their Made in China cars are hugely improved in quality. My Model Y had been perfect in fit and finish. I noticed some mist in taillights and they came out fixed in on my driveway within a week. No need to take time off routine visiting any dealership or service centre. All my communication with Tesla before and after purchase were done in efficient and professional manner, my service centre is Park Royal West London, probably one of the better ones. So far, I'm extremely happy with the company and how they've conducted themselves. I have zero problem recommending their product to anyone.

Hi welcome, you might be better asking in the 'Škoda Scala Includes all aspects of the Skoda Scala from 2018' section. -https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/384-škoda-scala/ Sorry I've no idea about phone leads.

Good you know, thanks.

You initially torque the bolts up using a suitable torque wrench, then using something like a breaker bar, rotate ie turn these bolts through the additional angle, it can be helpful to mark the 0 degrees reference point on the bolt head and adjacent metalwork, then mark the "+Y degrees" on the adjacent metalwork, so that you can check when you have reached the defined/mandated extra angle. Edit:- I have come across in the past, for a common bolt torque setting on a 2009 SEAT Ibiza was defined/mandated as being X Nm and no additional angular - but the same bolt (same part number) securing the same assembly was defined/mandated as being Y Nm and additional Z degrees, on 2015 VW Polo, obviously the Polo's "Y Nm" was a lot lower than the Ibiza's "X Nm" - a seriously lower value, in fact in that case, I contacted Haynes publishing to ask if these two different values and conditions for torquing were correct and they did confirm that they were, which for big multi marque company using common parts, did seem a bit strange.

Often a wiring break adjacent to the cable entry of the connector of switch on gearbox. Worth eyeballing before buying anything.

I had a spare hose in my self plus new clamps The part code for the hose is 6U0121101 Is already installed with new clamps plus new coolant, the air removed procedure is done plus a road test for some kilometres but the question remains: Will that patent last or i had to make a repair or buy a new radiator? The 3rd solution means at least 200 euros for buying-shipping plus fitting-new coolant etc totally at least 300 euros.

Spotted today, nearly twins.

If it is similar to the 2020 Skoda Superb, the main problems will probably be the rubber door seals, the B pillar and the door, either in combination or all 3. From the easiest remedy to the most extreme or challenging: 1) Make sure your door rubber seals are functioning well with no kinks that allow wind noise in. (May also want to try Rubber protectant by sonax?) 2) Add noise insulation rubber seals, easily available and easily stuck on your pre-existing door rubber seals. (ebay, aliexpress) 3) The B pillar has a huge hollow space there that echoes road noise upwards towards the driver's ears. Difficult: Sound deadening (sticking dynamat sound deadener or similar material on the thin metal surfaces of the pillar), sound insulation and sound absorption will help. This involves opening up the B Pillar if you DIY! 4) Do the same for the door. A PITA to open the door frame etc. It will however, give an even more premium thud sound when you close the door.

I will just check the us/ imperial setting now

Thankfully my manual blind spot check is 100% accurate. I'd never rely on some gizmo so wouldn't be an issue!

Undoing any of the engine mounts theoretically requires replacement of the bolts, but the 'dogbone' one under the gearbox, if you undo the gearbox end, those bolts go into blind holes so are unlikely to be in poor condition. There are flexible mounts (to cope with thermal expansion/contraction) in the exhaust, so won't be likely to break anything by rocking the bottom of the engine a little.

Yeah it's doing my head in too, it looked okay until I looked back at the picture.

I think that is an issue on some cars... I am having the exact same issue. I had the key on my upper sleeve and it wasnt even under some sort of pressure, yet the car opened by itself when I was 1meter close to it. Updating to 1896 has not fixed the issue. We can stay comfortable with the fact that they open only when we are near to them. And no, the setting that opens the car when the key is near it is disabled. Only kessy is active.

Hello Alan, SWMBOs Fabia (3-pot, 1.0, 110 TSI) averages between 40-45 mpg doing mostly short runs. I suggest running a check on your fuel computer readings by doing as NTA16 says with a tank to tank run. When was the air filter last changed? I prefer my Octavia's 4 cylinder 1.4 to her Fabia 1.0, 3 - mostly for the extra, low down torque. The Fabia is more 'chuckable' however.

I am not in the UK nor have I ever had these cases, but common sense dictates that if you leave the dealer after incpection service (which should include computer diagnostic reading on modern cars), that inspection was not done correctly. They either had not read codes or they did something with the vehicle that would cause these errors. Maybe they disconnected the battery? If you don't get smarter advice I would call the dealer and ask them (you should have asked them immidiately but I can understand the hesitance to do so). Actually I would call them regardless of advices here. Battery reading seems similar to what I had after 5 years. I changed the battery as a precaution. Battery still works today for backup power supply for heating system.

Pretty much what my GFs eldest son says about his Tesla - faults not getting fixed and the sparse dealer network not remotely interested in helping fix problems.

You may well have been misinformed. The official MOT manual is available to peruse at your leisure here: MOT inspection manual: cars and passenger vehicles - Guidance - GOV.UK (www.gov.uk) If you can't find something that mentions this specific warning light , or a statement that 'any warning light is a fail', then it is false information you have been told.

@toot George I think I must have passed you in this latest video, shame the enyaq can get to Aberdeen without charging or I might have bumped into you. enyaq

H*11 yeah!!

Not sure if it also helps, but I made this very short video intended to show the movement required to unclip the retaining wire. In the absence of the wire, on removed wheel. 20220917_151154.mp4

That's my kind of body repair

@nta16 I understand. I'm glad we have veterans like you in the forum.

Ended up fitting front and rear B6 damptronics as they all arrived in at once. I have them running on standard factory springs. I replaced the top mounts with Bilstein mounts and fitted an OEM mount bearings. the difference is night and day. It is slightly firmer, but in a much more controlled and still very comfortable way. It has removed the dive and clunking from the front end, and has honestly made the car seem quieter on the road all round. I can now actually use comfort without it feeling like a cross channel ferry in a storm. the car drives now like it should have from the factory. I still have/had a very slight noise from the roll bar bushes, which have been greased for now, and I’ve ordered an H&R front roll bar as they claim their Teflon coated bushes eliminate the issue without the need to grease at all. We’ll see how that goes when it arrives in, and I get a chance to get the car back on a ramp.

1. Look for the soft key labelled PTCD - very shorthand for PosTCoDe 2. I'm guessing you have an Amundsen sat nav as that reads the maps directly off the SD card. You can download newer maps from the Skoda portal (or using the links posted on here), but you MUST use a genuine Skoda SD card. I get mine off a well known auction site as the dealer price is ridiculous IMHO.

Recently purchased this blue beauty, its a 1.5tsi dsg, four years old, so I'm trying to steer clear of the cambelt thread 😁

These engines are designed to run on the oils as laid out in the instruction manuals for your region, with the car as flat and level as possible check the oil level, cold as per the manual. The really clever folk can now diagnose knowing the basics are satisfied. Good Luck.

Hello all, So after ordering my new VRS and waiting 14 months for it. My 4x4 Diesel Octavia VRS has arrived and I absolutely love it. I have spec'd it up and to be fair I'm glad I did. The 1 thing I did forget to spec up which my previous Octavia had was the raised floor and adding the HUD although wasn't fussed about it when I did my test drive, until I realised I didn't order it. The black one is my previous car, Thankfully due to covid I bought the ex demo that couldn't be test driven, which I believe has quite a few options that are extra if you by one new, This one only has a 9170 since I bought it in 2020. I couldn't get over the fact the 2 car's drive so differently even though they're likely to have the same engine. Anyway one happy customer right here. No complaints so far! Just have to work out how I'm going to feed the nextbase rear camera wire through the roof lining. Cheers all.

Only the vRS has two fog light bulbs, all other models have a single fog light bulb (which also acts as the cornering light).

"I do like to be beside the seaside.............."