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Dude, these cars are so old now a lot of the information you're sweating about was written in latin on wax tablets.

Just spent a frustrating evening trying to get my recently failed TMC to work and glad it doesn't seem to be just me! Just tried the wife's Seat Leon and her TMC has also packed up. Both vehicles have been working flawlessly until this week. Looks more like a central issue with VAG than individual vehicles/age etc.

Just by way of an update; Dropped it back at the garage today, turns out when the battery replacement was done the ODBII tool they had on hand wouldn't let them update the ECU with the new battery info (interestingly, when looking at it over the weekend I had been able to check the battery registration with my OBD2 reader and had seen that it was still set to the old battery, however my tool also refused to update the battery info). They tried an alternative OBD2 tool today and that allowed them to delete the old battery info and write the new battery. Touch wood, fingers crossed etc. that seems to have fixed the issue. I picked it up this afternoon and upon returning home put the multi meter across the battery which was showing 12.6v at idle. With the engine started and some of the electrical systems turned on this jumped up to 14.5v, so the battery seems to be getting charge from the alternator (when testing it beforehand over the weekend all that was happening when a load was put on the battery was that the voltage was dropping, suggesting to me that the battery was doing it all on its own). I'll keep an eye on it over the next few days and report back if there are any more issues. Cheers

All the screen options appear to be identical between the two models Roomy and Fabia mk2 (years picked as being close to your car):

I had to trim the new turbo outlet pipe by 40mm each end, duct tape happens to be the correct width I cut down the original dump valve hose and managed to get it back on the dump valve and new intercooler pipe by swearing at it and using boiling water to heat it up On the hot side I had to flip both of the horns by taking them off their brackets and remounting them upside down Finally I had it all put together, this section took the longest to work out, its very tight in there now and I'll reroot some of it at a later date to make it easier to work on Pretty sucessfull weekend, of course of knocked all of my knuckles off but thats a small price to pay

😋 My Karoq sportline

Needing a larger family car that would cope with long journeys I started digging around for something. I was mainly after something interesting. So after spotting a Maserati Quattroporte online I popped up to drive it and after a short and fruitful haggle I bought a Maserati Quattroporte V6d. It's fairly rapid (275hp), huge inside, and possibly the quietest car I've ever driven. The ICE is dated (probably dated when it was new) but does bluetooth and DAB and that's 95% of my needs. Some of the switchgear is a bit meh (Chrysler stock) other parts of the car are pure quality. Dash is walnut and leather. Dealer put on a full set of front disks and pads (OEM), two new front springs (caused a 6 week delay), oil and filter change, and a very good valet. Bought from the dealer owner who owns a GTS version and is clearly a Maserati fan himself, I'm guessing the previous owner was also very careful as it it mint. Already terrified of kerbing the alloys and it's a total PITA to park as it is over 5.2m long. But, just look at it....snaps knicker elastic at 100 yards.

Exactly, I had worked that out after reading that posting from the newish Karoq - before that I lived in ignorant bliss, maybe. I think that I still have a few spare repair "washers" for exhaust heat shields - I made up quite a few from food tins when I first needed to sort out that issue many years ago.

All fitted and working thank you very much for the video @Lutz I thought I had not done something correctly and was very disheartened after coding until realising the absolute must on hard reseting the head unit by press <>& speaker button! Did that and it works beautifully

Apologies i meant electrical tape... Must've had a brain fart with the ptfe bit!

Hi thanks for that my patience has run out with Skoda local dealers wait time for diagnostic on problem 2 month?

There are two power amplifier ICs, they will find them easily, no worries

Excellent thanks for fixing the picture that gives me a better idea of what I'm doing. I shall return to this tomorrow and let you know how it goes 😊

Pull harder I think Joe. The o-rings will have hardened and become less able to seal or deform to escape the housing, but brutality will win. 🙂 Counterhold locally with your other hand to avoid straining anything else nearby. Edit: I've just fixed the broken picture link in the opening post should it be any help.

@Perguizas @Ruddi @HellB0yIRL @SparkieMark You shall all have PM's with link to download.

Signal strength and battery charge level of attached mobile.

The firmware is EU region locked, so nearly all regions are supported. So will Contain many languages inside. You can update to 0369, and the swines don't provide a changelog per se.

Thanks I didn’t realise I was in the wrong forum 🙈🙈

Might get a better responses in the Octavia forum?

Many thanks for the replies Nottslan and Dappernut. Yes Dappernut, there is a 5mm crack extended. Nottslan I have got on to my insurers and they use Auto Windscreens and appointment booked for next Friday. I did have a text asking for a pic, but I was filling the form online on my laptop and seemed to qualify for an appointment for a repair as I had to say which area of the screen is damaged. It was a "D" area, (nearest to passenger door) where the drivers vision side is an "A". The chip is not in an area where it is swept by the passengers side wiper blade. Cost is £15 excess if I use the recommended repairer and doesn't affect my No Claims.

A102S is for LHD fitment.

A lot of that is due to Eco summer tyres fitted when new, whose grip falls off rapidly below about +10c in the wet or damp. I spun them few times pulling out of junctions with 1 litre DSG (in drive, not sport). I now use a set of winter tyres early Nov to late April, and never been able to spin them since.

Actually I think it's 1900, I'll check shortly.

Get Autoglass ( or whoever your ins co work with ) to check whether it can be repaired , before it gets any worse. Usually only costs £10 or so for a chip repair and doesnt affect any no-claims

What type of cats we call black Siam in Greece: https://mypet.gr/wp-content/uploads/2022/12/maures-gates-facts.jpg Of course there are others in different colours. What we call Sellotape: https://www.24hr.gr/el/προϊόντα/προσφορές/κολλητική-ταινία-σελοτέιπ-logo-tape-clear-διαφανής-12mm-x-33m Different brands, different colours-thickness-length-sizes, transparent or non transparent, with plastic reel or without etc, all these are clarifications that follow the main word "Selotape" that you have to say to the seller or write in your search on the web. The same happens with the word "Paraflue", yes it was a Fiat additive for aluminium radiators and after some time every Coolant was called "paraflue" no matter what brand was or concentate-premixed-colour etc the first established word in older mechanics was one: "Paraflou" (that's the way we spell it). When a seller or a mechanic or a fellow driver here asks you about your radiator system: "do you have paraflou in your car?" he asks you if your car has enough Coolant.

My 68 plate has done 44k and still on original discs and pads and I dont use gears to slow down, on the 3 cylinder 999cc engine there seems to be no engine braking so no point.

2.0TSI is considerably more expensive to run: - has worse gas mileage due to more horse power (I would consider 1.5TSI as already having a poor mileage while driving in town cause at just over 310miles I will get a low fuel warning on my 1.5TSI karoq) - has worse gas mileage due to it being heavier cause of the 4x4 system - regular maintenance and any potential repairs are more expensive due to 4x4 system - have to pay more in taxes/fees cause of higher horse power/higher CO2 emissions engine so, how much do you value having a little more power in your car? if you do not mind all the added extra cost and having to stop to refuel more often, than go for the 2.0TSI (and if you really need a 4x4, but how many people realistically do really?)

Looks like Siam, lovely. Here we call it "Selotape"

So after finally finding the right car with the right spec.. I never imagined suctioning out 13 -15 litres of water 💦 out of the drivers footwell… so I thought I’d post a little guide to how I fixed mine. It was soaking.. I actually found jacking up the opposite side of the car helped me get more water out as it flowed towards the sill firstly what a crap design that the drainage pipe can kink within the car within the routing when the car was built.. what’s the point.. with so many electrics in the floor of the car I’m looking at seat modules, a battery and lots of time, hassle and expense.. what I found was basically behind the fuse panel on the Drivers side, the pipe had kinked.. and fishing down it with thick plastic strimmer cable, it was clearly blocked. Firstly it’s routed though some rubber foam backed section of trim, making it tricky to release, but it was that that had seemed to kink the pipe. See the yellow circled area.. so, I thought either new pipe or repair this one. As I ran water down the pipe once off.. it was clear it wasn’t leaking further up. I think when the drain blocks the water basically overflows the sunroof, and it flows over the headlining, and down the A pillar to the footwell.. I measured the pipe.. and luckily found the item below on eBay.. using that, some wide heat shrink and a tube of stormsure adhesive, I managed to cut, and fix the pipe in situ.. tested it and waters now flowing straight out the door shut area. Getting this end back in blind was fiddly but perseverance worked after a few mins.. If anyone’s got any experience of how to dry out all the electrics let me know.. oh and if you’ve got a car with a panoramic roof.. check your drains regularly 8mm elbow joints

That's actually true!! My previous Karoq in Business Grey was often lost in car parks as the suspicious guy went around pressing the fob to try to notice the indicators flashing to pick it out.... No such problems now!!! 😆

Thank you, I thought that was the case. I was surprised to see the the average brake force of the front and average of the back were almost exactly the same but that is good but I don't know how it was measured, we have two or three systems over here. But as you have found these figures do not tell the whole story. Sorry for the distraction.

Still a glaring omission on many more upmarket cars too, such as the I-Pace or Ioniq 5. Seems to be needless penny pinching as I certainly would not buy a car without.

most likely yes, have saved that Googled info # VW Recalls Golf GTI and Golf R Because the Engine Cover May Come Loose and Melt # https://www.autoevolution.com/news/vw-recalls-golf-gti-and-golf-r-because-the-engine-cover-may-come-loose-and-melt-184792.html # https://www.motorsafety.org/volkswagen-is-recalling-hatchbacks-over-fire-risk/ # 06Q-103-925-K # 06Q-103-925-L (fixed) 80e https://fznparts.nl/product/vw-golf-8-gti-r-5h0-motorafdekking-rubber-06q103925l/ 95e https://www.hahn-onlineshop.de/originalteile/original-seat-abdeckung-06q103925l/a-66277 99e https://shop.ahw-shop.de/original-vw-motorabdeckung-schallschutz-2.0-tfsi-deckel-verkleidung-06q103925l 120e https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/06q103925l-top-engine-cover-skoda-45757.html 310$ https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/engine-cover/06q103925l/

Good man Gerry,thank you.I will do of course! As you can see,I couldn’t even wait for a reply on here to my question😂😂Spanner’s out already and the £ burning a hole in my pocket.

Done it.Bought the whiteline rear arb as got 10% eBay discount and also got the 40mm h&r’s there a lot cheaper (£50) coming from Germany 🥳

@pab567would be the best person to answer a HW question. Please be patient he may reply sometime tomorrow when free.

Yes on a mkii Octavia. One way of checking is to tape around the screen between body and glass with ptfe electrical tape and see if it stays dry.

+1 re the paddles. My chosen country road overtake is to drop two gears using the left paddle and then when I am done just hold the right paddle for a second and it goes back to the previous driving mode. tom

At least that's all it was!

Are you sure it's not just a plastic nut cover that's not on properly? I've seen some serious tyre monkey-ry, but getting a wheel bolt that cross threaded would be a huge achievement.

So this morning I test drove a Volvo V60 Cross Country (petrol). Why's that relevant to a Skoda forum? Because I went straight from the Volvo dealer to a Skoda dealer and sat in an Octavia SE L. Honestly I don't think that the Skoda gives up much, if anything, in terms of perceived quality. Of course there's a lack of leather and wood bits, but then Volvo costs about £12-15K more (compared to SE-L 4x4). I think I might even prefer the microsuede seats to leather anyway.

Taken today up at the Ribblehead Viaduct between the rain showers.

Here’s an example of some impressive engineering, oh and some old viaduct in the background…😆

New genuine clutch and slave cylinder installed. Ohh and Wavetrac diff as well

Same here, for a couple weeks ago, it started to reboot in the first 10 minutes in car. Occasionally with an error from parking assistant as well. After one or two reboots, its stable. But today the car was completely dead so its in the workshop now.

Just an example Pagid CERA TEC - "Cera Tec is for lubrication on metal-metal applications such as Caliper sliders. Ideal for the lubrication disc and drum brakes, compressors, central lubricating systems, axle bearings, chains, seat tracks, sunroof guides and battery contacts, the perfect compliment for Pagid brake parts." It may or may not help with that brake squeal you mentioned. Not to be used with slide pins on rubber

Some guys use the:

Just press the bit that says android auto below the OnePlus 8t. Mine does that sometimes if I have to replug it and the head unit hasn't finished shutting down it's car mode.

There seems to be a misunderstanding on the process. A rejection request letter lists faults, gives the supplying dealer one chance to fix them (not multiple attempts, or only fixing some), if they don’t 100% fix then when you go in to collect car, don’t have to accept it. Can just offer your debit card to process the refund there and then. The time wasting excuses are just that, outside the basic consumer protection law. You have no contract with Skoda UK, the dealer has a commercial (business) contract with Skoda. It’s unconnected to your (retail) sales contract with dealer. Any waffle they need approval from Skoda is just a lie, how and when they get reimbursed by Skoda UK is not your concern, their commercial contract covers that. There is no reason why your rejection should be delayed. If you have a separate contract with finance company you may need to settle that. The dealer might have been an introducer (helped arrange a contract between you and the finance Co), but if so any ongoing connection there is also irrelevant. If you have financed the car, Phone the finance Co and check what type of deal you have, let them know you are rejecting, they will let you know if you settle direct, or can keep the finance running as a loan unconnected to a specific vehicle, in which case can use it for any car (doesn’t have to be same dealer, or even same car brand). For clarity in certain types of finance the finance Co owns car, not you until it is paid for. If it is one of these they will need to be involved in the rejection to ensure they get reimbursed. If you are unsure of type, just ask finance Co when you phone them (they are regulated, by Finance Regulator, so staff on phone need to be accurate). If the dealer is still messing about, use direct method, walk in, stick both keys on salesman’s desk, and ask if they would like your debit card to process refund. And yes the card machine on his desk can also do instant refunds (probably will require a refund PIN to be entered by dealer, but should have your money in few seconds). The card machine refund receipt is normally the only paperwork the customer needs. Get your refund, then if dealer wants to take 7 weeks to do his internal paperwork that’s their problem.