Leaderboard

The obvious point here is that regardless of the cause of the Trafficmaster shutdown, the solution is quite clear and simple. Other car manufacturers (including but not limited to BMW, Mercedes, Toyota, Ford, Renault and Jaguar Land Rover) are still paying INRIX for their vehicles to use TMC data. VAG have either neglected or consciously decided not to contract with INRIX following the Trafficmaster shutdown. Presumably to save a bit of money. This is exactly where we need to apply pressure - functionality from our vehicles has been abruptly disabled without forewarning, and VAG should take action to replace like for like so that our vehicles continue to function as they did before 1st April 2023 (or whatever the precise date was when Trafficmaster went belly up). What's making this about a hundred times more difficult is how awful VAG customer service has been - constantly directing owners to their dealers for expensive and useless diagnostics when the answer is staring them in the face. They should refund anyone that they directed to spend money on pointless main dealer diagnostics for a problem that THEY CAUSED. I've more or less made my mind up that my next car will not be Skoda/VAG because of they way they've handled this. Toyota seems like a safe bet...

Of course not everyone can charge at home, it's a problematic social divide and has been discussed as you are aware. But if you can charge at home via 3-pin charger, you can get proper charge point installed and use it as primary source. If can't get smart meter, you would still be at price-cap. Consumer rates and 5% VAT are much better than public charging at business rates and 20% VAT. As your calculation have demonstrated, charging at home at highest possible rate is still 71% of cost refuelling ICE. I'm only pointing out 2 possibilities to bring it much lower.

So I won a Fabia vrs off darkside developments, Big spec diesel Power Figures 332.7bhp & 445Ft/lbs - With Nitrous (50 Jet) 307.1bhp & 400Ft/lbs - Diesel Only Engine GTD2872VRK Billet Hybrid with Vacuum Conversion Darkside Developments Turbo Kit with Tubular Stainless Manifold/Downpipe Darkside Straight through Stainless Exhaust System Darkside Ported + Dimpled Head with bigger valves Rosten H-Beam Rods ARP Mains Studs Darkside Race Camshaft 1.9 8v Headstud Kit Uprated valve springs Firad PD Race 120% Injectors Universal Front Mount Intercooler Custom Darkside Hardpipe Kit Darkside 57mm EGR Delete Darkside Front Mount Oil Cooler AEM Cone Filter Darkside Custom TIP Pipe 6 BAR MAP Sensor Darkside Custom Remap + Hardcut Limiter Wizards of NOS Dry Nitrous Kit (50 Jet) Performance Aluminium Radiator HyperKuhl Super Coolant Fass Lift Pump Snow Performance Water Methanol Kit Snow Performance Solenoid Machined Pistons Coated Pistons Transmission 02M 6 Speed Gearbox Darkside Single Mass Conversion with Sachs SRE Clutch Quaife 02M Limited Slip Differential 4th Gear Support short shifter Chassis Vibratechnic Engine and Gearbox Mounts KW Variant 3 Fully Adjustable Coilovers Adjustable Drop Links Powerflex Bushes with Black Race Series on Wishbone Brakes Porsche Caliper Upgrade Brembo 312mm Front Brake Discs & Track Pads Brembo 256mm Rear Brake Upgrade RBF600 Brake Fluid Wheels and Tyres 17" 2Forge ZF1 Wheels in Gloss Black 215/40/17 Yokohama A052 Tyres Exterior Bumper opened for Air Flow Custom Headlights Plans are afoot mainly to clean it up to my standards, bodywork is pretty good both side sills were done a couple of years back, just a bit of rust coming through on bootlid. Nitrous is going to come off (scares me a little haha) and I’m in the process of tiding all the masses of wiring, as it’s had many additions over the years, nitrous wiring, water meth, boost gauge, sub in its past, some pics before I started my bits and pieces

Oh yes I forgot to meantion 😂, too caught up reminiscing, great to see you too

I reckon a plug has come out that maybe wasn't fully clipped back in sometime in the past, start with the MAP sensor since there's a code for this, check the crank position sensor next since this can cause non-starting, also check the ECU multiplugs are fully pushed home.

Interesting article here - https://inrix.com/press-releases/garmin-live-traffic/. It is going back to a separate unit but no fees to pay.

I dont know about any specific update, but i havent had issues for a while now (a month or two)

Great to meet you @gav_is_con👍🏻 some really nice cars there today, took loads of pictures - too many to put them all on but here is a selection. and I got a great raffle prize too! Heres to next near😀

So mine is back to restarting too so another one to prove the radio station logo workaround isn’t an actual workaround 🤦🏻‍♂️ mine rebooted twice the other day inside of 5 minutes of driving off. It’s bloody garbage really.

Seems either Skoda or Apple have finally released a fix as Google Maps now seems to be working fine and no pixelation

I've got to say that PHEVs can be a pain in the bum. I often charge up at home, drive a distance which will flatten the traction battery (it's nicely metered out during the course of the journey if you use the sat nav). But once away from home, I can't recharge. This is mainly down to the fact that PHEVS generally (or not at all afaik) don't have fast charging capabilities. They either do 3.7kW or 7kW charging, meaning you need either 4 or 2 hours to recharge. I don't have time to waste doing that sort of tethered recharge. I therefore fill up and drive around as a heavy 1.6 petrol car that is lugging around a crazy amount of excess weight. EV/PHEVS etc still do not work for me and I can't see that changing between now and when I retire. Once I no longer work I'll give EVs a proper look. but suspect I won't be able to afford one with decent range.

A good version of either 1.6d or 2.0d can give you excellent fuel consumption on a long run, but years of reading owner reports on Briskoda suggests that there can be quite large variations between individual vehicles consumption, even allowing for different driver habits and driving environments. A good test drive with a keen eye on consumption results should enable you to avoid a lemon of either variety.

1. I don't think that is a Dolomite... I think that is a "Moon", but I could be wrong. 2. I would not be considering repairing it... the inner rim is bent out of shape, and the inner rim diagonally opposite that damage looks as if its been hammered back into shape previously (is that what you refer to as "peening"?) On safety grounds alone I'd be looking to replace it, either with a secondhand one, or else I suspect new replacements are still available.

If you’re looking at the i5 have you looked at the ev6? Now I’ve been in it for a while and got used to an “automatic” plus regen braking it’s pretty good. Add to that the 800v battery means charging isn’t such a big deal. Biggest issue is planning when you have to be somewhere by a specific time and your charge could be 30 minutes or 2 hours depending on availability and reliability of the chargers.

Said hello to @FatWolfie

By @Dooge request; he asked for this to be deleted, upon review I think it's concluded with some useful information/ideas and some less than helpful. So I'm locking it. There is no harm in anyone asking a question of anything; there is no such thing as a stupid question. So a gentle reminder, guidelines of the site boil down to one simple phrase, be nice. No I don't think this is a stupid question It's a repair, potentially more than was "honestly" offered. Good luck @Dooge I'm sure there are plenty of repair shops that for a small fee would give you some peace of mind, maybe even do a bit of an investigation to discover the limits. Then you're informed and you can remedy/keep/flog... love it or list it HTH.

I have made it, sun has finally come out. Say hello if you see me, in the blue Superb estate

Presumably because the warranty terms, conditions and duration are also set by Skoda UK (essentially an importer), unlike the workshop manual which isn’t. Skoda UK can hoodwink their customers, but have limited influence over Skoda themselves?

The Moon is stunning this evening 🌛

As an aside, today a couple of people saw our petrol blue car and mentioned how good it looked. When I mentioned that I was considering a graphite grey one, they said the blue made a change from all those grey cars around!

I’ve spent a lot of time recently scouring this forum for information as to how you can measure the wear on the cam chain with no success. So, if anybody can point me to an existing thread on the subject, I would be most grateful. I have a 2014 1.2 TSI Roomster (CBZB engine) with 45K on the clock. From what I have read this version should have the beefier cam chain & sprockets fitted as original, but it had the infamous cold start rattle. The dealer (not Skoda) I bought it from insisted that the rattle was normal & nothing to worry about. I had my doubts & investigated this on the web & found you guys. Very interesting reading but, I was unable to find anyone with a detailed procedure to check the cam chain wear. I have been quoted £750 for a cam chain replacement by a Skoda dealer) & didn’t want to shell out that sort of money without being sure it was really necessary. I found one thread that mentioned wear should not exceed 74mm but where exactly is this measured from? I have obtained a new chain tensioner (Febi Bilstein Part No 40379, VW part No 03F 109507 & fitted it myself. An easy job only needing a 27mm socket (& a cold engine!). With this new tensioner fitted all is now quiet. So, the logical conclusion is that the original fitment is either faulty or of poor design. I did measure the overall length of the new part from underside of the sealing washer to the end of the plunger at 76.72mm. the original was 72.07mm. Could this 4mm make all that difference? The other difference I saw was that the end of the new tensioner is much larger than the original. Could this make a significant difference? Going back to the max wear @74mm could this measured from the face of the cylinder head, where the tensioner fits, to the pivoting chain guide? Any help would be much appreciated.

No problem. I've dropped you a PM.

Leasing a Tesla should have similar experience as buying? Any problem just make a service request via the app and it's taken care of by mobile tech the very next week.

Buy an EV that' doesn't require any servicing to keep warranty EV servicing garages: https://hevra.org.uk/garages.html

I had an average of 63.6 on our MKI PD140. I did used to do a 110 miles a day round trip commute on weekdays, so that was the reason. But obviously that average included short local trips at the weekend.

Soot = carbon

OMG. really? Need to test it on first occasion. Thanks for the info.

Personally I usually use Westfalia, but Brink/Thule are the same kit and is fairly good kit ... just not cheap. Dont forget to get your Yeti "programmed" so it knows it has a towbar so all the electrics and stability control works correctly.

Have a look in the security access if there is 27971 (from memory) regeneration whilst standing and enter the value, then go back to basic settings.

Meteor Grey has a great shine as in prevoius post and also does not show the dirt as much as some others do.

Moon is 16" Dolomite is 17" Moon Dolomite (has a sharper crease line) And the hole lines up on the air fill point also Easily confused though 🤝

OK, I understand what you mean by peening marks now. They must be very weak inner rim sections for it to have bent twice but leaving no witness marks on the outer rim, cast alloy fracures easily with deformation, I'm surprised that it was straightened once without cracking and being weakened, a 2nd time would really be tempting fate. Have you had the tyre checked for damage? How long have you owned the vehicle? Could it be that the damage to the inner rim was already there and the peen marks were someones failed attempts to straighten it? After all when your father hit the kerb it would have been with the outer rim if it was a normal glancing blow, both rims if he went right over it, in either case I would have expected to see impact damage on the tyre outer sidewall and the outer rim. Something worng when a rim can be damaged but the tyre not, especially if it was two times.

Just paid 134p a litre here...

Price of electricity, for those using single rate of cost per kWh, is due to go down to 30p per kWh on July 1st 2023 where it will stay there until end of September presumably. I will still be paying 40p per kWh if I charge during daytime rates but 7.5p per kWh during the cheap 4 hours. New Octopus rates are due to be 9.5 per KWh I gather. I would be considering a Bi-fuel Dacia that runs on LPG as well as petrol as a non EV route. I would be surprised if petrol is going to get any cheaper than the near £1.40 a litre currently. With new hybrids doing 60 to 70 mpg and more a UK government might feel it can add the inflationary rise on to fuel duty, or at least reverse the 5p a litre reduction soon. Electricity is so versatile with over 30M outlets and growing. Perhaps we will get more individuals selling electricity from their houses ???

Mk2's were engineered and built for driving regardless of emissions because VW Group could just cheat the test regime at their chosen facility. Same through Euro 5 emissions. For 2016 they had to get their act together because they were caught. Then they had to do SCR, & then for the WLTP it was all change again, get the results for the tests but if the cars run a bit crap then tough. That then was and is an issue so they have had to work more on engine management. They actually have the economy about right and emissions with Mk4 TDI's and just stuffed up with IT.

I just found this thread as my car (Octavia Mk4 2020) has the same restarting infotainment issues since I purchased it about two months ago. It went to the garage on Friday for diagnostics which they claim they fixed a hanging cable bundle near the rear parking sensors and performed a "software update" - they've not updated anything from what I can see, which is backed up by a before and after scans from VCDS which show the same software versions on everything - just fewer faults that presumably they cleared off. FWIW when I spoke to Skoda Connect in April about issues with becoming the Primary User they actually told me: They mentioned 1940, it's possible it's jumped by 1 since then - but if their time is valid, my reading of the calendar is the week beginning the 19th of June.

After following @MartiniB and @ApertureS advice, managed to update thanks guys also, this was using a 64gb mem card formated to exFat. So all seems ok at present

@wyx087 super thanks. I feel a 'test' drive of the tesla would be greatly improved with a 30mins in the car before you move session. Using ABRP on various trips I'd do, into north wales, lakes, scotland there isn't a lot in it, cost or time wise. Trade a bit of cost in the tesla charge but gain some time as faster than the public 50kWh the i5/enyaq would have to use. Little munro 4 day road trip plan. Does not account for overnight, although highly likey to be a bothy, tent, or hut with three pin max. ModelY RWD vs Ionic5 RWD. The extra range is moot once in the highlands, based on charger location. Peace of mind to have some in reserve. However I coped perfectly well with a citigo bobbing about on a 200ish mile range of petrol fuel and there are almost as few petrol stations as electric. As i discvoered in MidWales last summer, petrol stations close at 6pm on weekends. The EV sites were open, oh the irony as my fuel light blinked away trying to make 35 on the computer make 40 to a tesco.

At time of the paper's publication, they only had 2 full EV's for sale, the Polestar 2 and XC40. Their main claim was based on high vehicle production carbon for XC40. But the numbers are waaaaay too much when compared to other sources such as Tesla and VW ID dedicated EV platform claims on vehicle production carbon emission. This suggests poor manufacturing techniques and bad supply chain.

Well, I'm going to give it a go if I can locate some foam in my local craft shop, and I'll let you know if it cures it. I'm not going to be touching the door cards at the moment, I'll wait until the 3 months warranty has expired before touching those, just in case anything should break while I'm in there. Interestingly, I thought I'd have a check to see if the other 4 Superb's I've had are still on the road, the first one, in 2004, light blue was replaced in 2007, appears to have been scrapped in 2008 🙄. The second one in 2007, in cappuccino, replaced in 2010, also seems to have met its maker in 2011 🙄. The third one in 2010 was in amethyst purple, replaced again in 2013, is also.. no it's still on the road somewhere. And the fourth one arrived in 2013, petrol blue, I purchased that 2016 when I retired and ran it until it got written off for me 🙄 2 months ago. So this Mk3 is now my 5th Superb, so I guess you could say that I love them.

I got a revo stage 1 remap on my 2014 220 tsi. I’ve posted on this before. I remapped the car when it had 70k about 4 years ago. It’s now on 136k on same stock clutch. when I got it mapped they were able to adapt the boost kicking in to later on as they were worried about slip. I said that was fine. So it still hits peak power and torque just a little later. clutch is still fine!

The belt lasts it's lifetime. be that a 5,10, 15 or 20 year lifetime. Maybe it would be the time the queen lived. The tensioners, bearings etc also last a lifetime, but that might be many years less than the belt. They will cover the parts (& labour) for 2 years.

P0685 ECM/PCM Power relay control circuit/ open circuit (J271) solved! 👏 Pete, thank you very much for your quick and insightful help. Once again proving how great a forum like this is! Final update for those interested: I checked the engine bay fuse box numbers (underneath so you must remove) and the pins Pete mentioned were clearly visible (images attached) and I could trace the Red/Black wires he mentioned. Visually checking the loom I found the smallest of 'nicks' in one of the wires not far from the fuse box and having opened the black electrical tape and followed it back to the box this was indeed the power supply to the relay wire, it had exposed the core of the wire and had gradually corroded to a point where it simply wouldn't pass current anymore. I had changed the battery for a brand new one at the end of last year and removed the battery box to have a good clean in there and must have just caught the loom ever so slightly when putting it all back together so I replaced a section of the wire to completely cut out the corrosion, retaped the loom with a good quantity of tape and thank God (mine is Jesus) it started instantly! Phew. Once again a MASSIVE shout of appreciation to MicMac and BreezyPete for taking the time to help and hopefully this thread may help others in the future. All the best.

Just in case someone is looking - I today fitted brand new Thule Wingbar Evo in silver to my Dec 2021 hatchback. Wingbar 127cm 711300 Evo Foot 710500 Kit 145283 Seems ok so far but just test fitted for today. Great Skoda have the locating points (something over my previous Toyotas).

Yes mines DSG. Only had a small drive home, one blip off the line and one on a slip road, but def notice the extra pull. Not gonna help the mpg for a while...

Current state of play , all dash panels out and going to get some more to get rid of all the holes, Nitrous has been removed along with all the redundant wiring, so I can now tidy up and place in conduit so it will be a lot neater and nothing on display. Now nos is out I’m going to place the water meth switch in the ashtray so everything will be hidden. Controller will still be in glovebox the only thing visible will be the led for the water meth as you need to see it to know it’s working

Ahoy there, sorry for not getting back to you sooner! There is no component protection on the screen, it's plug and play. If you upgrade the headunit itself, then that does have protection. I still have my VRS and the screen was definitely worth every single penny.

First of all, if you want the definitive figures for your car, ask Skoda for an EU Certificate of Conformity. Legally, they are obliged to issue ONE, free, to the first purchaser of the vehicle. They don't look like much (just a single sheet of A4 with lots of data printed on them), but they're a valuable legal document. They're unique to each vehicle, so there won't be any messing around with weight ranges, it will simply tell you exactly what your car can legally tow, braked or unbraked, including nose weight. Look around Field 18. The certificate will have your car's 17 character VIN on it. Secondly, towbar prep is, as has been said, various cooling system upgrades, plus the necessary interface for the wiring. Lots of people (me included, have NOT had towbar prep and tow things. There is no legal problem with doing so, but there may be warranty problems if you cook your engine whilst towing. Just watch the temperature. Most of the time, in the UK, unless you're towing the maximum weight in the middle of summer, up a steep hill, you'll be fine. Thirdly, we had ours done by PF Jones in Manchester and we're happy with it. Make sure you go for "coded" electrics.

Got it fixed .... though the garage could only do the fix with the aid of this forum!! They were convinced the fan controller was built into the fan/ motor assembly and were saying they'd need to replace the whole fan. Untrue, as soon as they took the battery out they found the controller beneath it and that was a lot easier to replace. Could maybe have done it myself for a lot less .. but I couldn't find the controler either! The fan running on had finished off the battery, so had to have a new one of those too. Car now works fine and with the new battery the engine stop/start system works again too. Thanks to Briskoda!