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They say a picture paints a thousand words so ............. Still jobs to do but it's the first drive in nearly 7 years so was quite nervous/emotional! Matt

Just need a volunteer now 😁 I would push dealer if your car is under warranty still, out of warranty, then apply the new firmware release.

I hope my experience how I solved reboots will be useful for someone. I had the problem within 1 min after start engine, sometimes 2 times one by one. I changed user settings from default to “not share my position), it’s mode after incognito with letter “i” on the picture. It disabled some services like traffic jams and parking positions but no restarts since that time.

Scrap... 🤣. The AI that Android uses on word correction these days has a sense of humour.

The new version 1941 has been released. I still need to install it on a car. Who ever wants to install it, sent me a pm.

Would the BKY engine be the same?

Ah yes, a nice mouthful of 4 Star. Been there, done that

OK then, today I had yet another go at separating the padded top from the centre section of the armrest and after much swearing succeeded, besides the 2 clips that you kindly highlighted, I can now confirm that there are 6 others, well hidden the little blighters are as well. I had to enlist the services of my son as well to help as you need to be a flipping octopus to operate all the flaming clips 🤔. In addition to the ones you highlighted, I have highlighted these pesky ones in green as well in the photos and these locate in the holes also shown in green on the other photo, 3 each side of the rest. Those clips highlighted in red depict the visible ones that you can clearly see. Under no conditions attempt to move the 2 real big beefy clips, the ones that are situated towards the cup holder end of the rest, its the other smaller clips at the tunnel end of the rest, I highlighted both of these clips in red to aid identification, the ones not to try are by the label. Now that I have been able to separate the padded bit the armrest is extremely quiet and the only occasional squeak seems to be from the door card if I rest my knee on it and and a squeak every now and then from the steering cowling which I'll attempt at a later date. More on this later when I've completed the rest bit.

This is the normal process for a Stop/Start battery change.

You took it outside! Blimey, if I had a car that nice, I'd only want to drive it on freshly vacuumed Wilton or Axminster carpet 😎 Looks jubbly btw 👍👍 Gaz

Done.

Many a year ago, back when the world was black and white, you could semi prime a dry pump by sucking on the delivery side pipe (and enjoy a mouthful if you were lucky) to draw fuel into it. The way that attempt sounded, I’d be checking for spark too, as it didn’t sound like it was trying. Gaz

Open the front window a little bit, if just you driving then crack open the passenger side for less wind noise.

I have a feeling that ŠKODA doesn't know about this problem at all. There is probably no time to return to the problems of an "outdated" model. It is easier to draw new models and dream about income and profit. Maybe the staff is so old that they don't understand anything about modern technologies and their operation? I'm sorry, but this is not the service I want to receive. Yes, I am aware that I have not bought a premium segment car, but I'm sorry... 🤦‍♂️ It is the third day after re-connecting the phone to multimedia. These days I use BT, WIFI connection for AA and this morning the multimedia restart happened in the first minute of the trip. How thin it is for me. 🤯

Official Skoda. You cant install original VW firmware on a Skoda or Seat.

So welcome to Briskoda and to the 272/280 thread, rcblur69. You didn’t say how long your commute is, but if I take the start-up average on my massive 2.5m each way commute, I get about 22mpg first thing (06.00) and about 23, maybe 24mpg back at (08.30). My long term is still showing about 28.5 but that’s because I did a 1k round trip to Ireland about 6 weeks ago which got my long-term avg upto 35. Cold engines use more fuel and when it’s winter I get 20-21 there and back. So given this I’d say what you’re getting isn’t off, it’s in the about right arena; if this was a V6 or worse, a V8 developing 280’ish bhp, you’d be looking up the noisy exhaust at 15mpg or even less.

Aye it's needing me to actually spend the whole day there. For that to happen, it needs to be a bit less '****in roastin pal'... Oh it's trying alright!... oh, that's not quite what you meant...

Found the hole. Metal plate tacked on the inside and filled over. Good job it wants painting as it'll need tidying unfortunately sure but for now I have a functioning vent. Just need to wire the fan up to a switched live and a button on the dash somewhere.

If the sensor is kidding the ECU into thinking cranking is too slow, that could be the issue. I'm near certain that you can change the crank sensor without removing gearbox, will see if I can dig up instructions. Or ask your VW guy? Not Crasher is it? He's on here too.

But it’s not cranking slowly. It sounds fine, same as it always has. What’s being suggested is the sensor is lieing, giving false info.

Thanks again for all your help and time

The data sheet posted contains this line just under the headings, which might be a clue: "The REACH etc. (Amendment etc.) (EU Exit) Regulations 2019, SI 2019/758 (as amended)." Wonder if brexit has made that link I posted obsolete somehow? Bet the A\C refill commercial outfits are 'snowed under' this week, and thoroughly booked up for the foreseeable.

Thanks - too much hassle removing bumper so will look to buy a glue on one 😀

Better tables than what I found (linked below) but essentially saying the same. 'All-in-One' btw. includes spark plugs, pollen filter and air filter each once in the two years, but not 'Maintenance' items like Brake Fluid, Aircon or Cambelt. https://www.skoda.co.uk/owners/servicing-maintenance-fixed-price

@MujBriSkodaIf you have a Mk3 Fabia and in the UK and under 3 years old so covered by manufacturers warranty tell them to go check the TPI and then with Skoda and replace the 'Turbo Waste Gate' free gratis to you & under warranty. Likely they will find that not needed if Skoda says no and you are not paying.

Better pick up another bottle before the EA step in 😂

Does look like the right data, thanks, but baffled by the contradiction with the link above. Halfords seem to need showing that link? 🤔

https://www.gov.uk/guidance/selling-f-gas-or-equipment

Wow, I have been hesitant to do chassis sound insulation, and now it seems to strengthen my resolve

When you say full at 25psi do you mean that it would not take any more gas or that what the instructions say? If the latter then they are dangerously incorrect, you may have over or underfilled your system. Be aware that as the refrigerant is used the pressure drops and you cannot judge how many more top ups you have remaining by the pressure which varies massively dependant on ambient temperature, weight of refrigerant is the key and your vehicle should be filled from a vacuum with a very specific weight somewhere around 525 grammes.

You should release the key as soon as the engine fires, you should never engage the starter motor when the engine is running, both of these should be obvious to most people. Nonetheless the starter motor has a one way sprag clutch which declutches when the engine fires so that the starter motor is not destroyed by being turned at 20 times the engine RPM, the starter will still be turning though until you release the key. I believe so, I have never been aware of such an interlock but then I have never been aware of someone who would willingly engage their starter motor knowing that the engine is running. You may have broken the one way sprag clutch in the pinion with your antics.

Can you move the condenser tonthe side to fit a longer radiator? The 1.6 radiator is about 10cm wider than the 1.3 one. 1.9 is about the same width as the 1.6, but taller. Edit: found dimensions and heat rating on jmjm.cz - although I'm not sure what's source of the information. 1.3 - 33 kW, dimensions 285 x 485mm 1.6 - 43 kW dimensions 285 x 590mm 1.9/1.6AC - 60 kW, 322 x 590 mm.

Mk1 has same problem.

My windows chirp and are very noisy. Wind deflectors hasn't sorted it. I think its just the design of the car.

When KwikFit did mine they told me it wasn't leaking but it still wasn't working. They didn't charge me for the refill. On the way home I reset the Climatronic and it started working. On reaching home 10 minutes later I checked the temperature from the face level vents and it was 4°C.

Might be worth dropping the pollen filter out to see if the bit that is missing has fallen down the air duct and got trapped there?

Sounds like the garage saw her coming... Yes, I know a skilled mechanic charges for the years of training and experience they've built up, the garage has overheads/rent/electricity/wages etc to pay, markup on the parts etc... But £50 for a single bulb change is just plain wrong if it wasn't quoted for and agreed beforehand.

According to Quote Investigator the original source is

Hi @Gaz, whilst I'm a Mac user, I use webmail more than the macOS mail app so not that familiar with it. Having said that, the position and emboldening of "HeySpin New Releases" suggests to me that it's the sender rather than subject line. If it is, then maybe it's the deviousness of junk mail senders subtly changing the 'from address' to work around the filters, and the mail app filter is not quite getting there. Do you also have a rule that blocks from addresses that contain HeySpin rather than a specific address? Also, check your Junk Mail Behaviours settings. I'm guessing you don't want this...

Hi https://www.kopacek.com/fr/skoda/fabia-iii/pedals-footrests/

20 around town is about right if the town is like London with lots of 20/30 limit and traffic. Even stop start won't make it any better ... 27 on a run (assuming definition is same as me.) Sounds low. I'd expect more than 30 in a 272. You must be ragging it,😂

It should be easy enough to remove it, find the part number and replace it Snippets from the workshop manual are below, it mentions replacing the rear seat clips but I don't think I did when I removed this panel to run a rear view camera cable.

@Graham Butcher i replaced whole part, which were ordered from Ali -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/426372-rear-passenger-air-vent-part-number/?do=findComment&comment=5332587

Snap.

I believed it after 10 years, after 20 years, and after 30 years, after around 40 years the realisation dawned on me that I was a knobhead who knew nothing but thought he knew everything.

That will update automatically the next time I log a fill up on Spritmonitor. These are average calculated figures for a full top up.

It's more the idea of 'refuelling' taking four times longer for every car, and having four times the queue length just to get to a charging point, which then drags your journey time out.

Nope! Our 2016 is on 40k (65km).

A whole heap of things done on the camper: Dyed the front bumper Painted the grill New carpets New curtains Lots of welding (inner and outer sills, cross member, and arch repairs) MOT New worktop 4 new tyres New fresh water wipe Battery charger Vango air beam awning First trip away booked up, looking forward to it.

Superb MK3 is still on the road and kids are still doing what they can I've run into the same trouble these days and fix it myself, thanks to all contributors here (the local dealer didn't prove very useful on the matter). As I've found particularly useful the pictures posted by moamer91 in this topic https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/460883-rear-air-vent-collapsed/ I want to contribute myself with the following couple of images: To remove the outlet grid part, as described by others, all you need is a plastic card. Insert it gently as shown on the picture, push a little in and move the card aside. The grid part will slightly pop out with a click and you can take the whole thing out. To detach the cable connector you need to push the metal bud on it, with a small screwdriver (as mentioned by MartiniB), towards the brown and blue/white cables and then help further with your fingers. It's a tight link. If there are parts fallen down in the vent pipe a vacuum cleaner may come handy. I hope this will help someone. Thank you all who posted here and in the aforementioned tread, who saved my day (and money). Wish you all the best!