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Drop me your shipping details on PM, I will send you one

I wouldn't take too much notice, as long as he's good with the tools then you can ignore the drivel.

Sent the file, let's hope it can sort out the mess

This website indicates that my particular model has a cam belt not a cam chain 😞 https://timingbeltorchain.net/skoda-karoq-nu7-engines-models-2017-timing-belt-or-chain-2114

Not sure what Skoda says but if we take something like VW Golf Mk7 I had which during it's production run, could be ordered with a150 1.4 ACT engine and the 1.5 ACT engine which superceded it. The belt part number is exactly the same for both engines. That same belt is getting on for 10yr and it's the exact same story - plenty of theory written about catastrophic failures but very little evidence of the belt going 'pop'. Anyway that's not the point - if a manufacturer recommend something and you chose to ignore it then it's as good as waving goodbye to any future goodwill. Will be very interesting to see if their UK policy has indeed changed.

That's odd! Wired AA should work without any glitch. Concerning the wireless AA, IIRC since MY22 or MY23 all mk4s should have it. The first 2 years only had wireless CP and wired AA. (someone correct me if I'm wrong) Can you check all permissions are correctly set for AA on your phone? And make sure you have a good quality cable...

Colourful sky this evening and the Buck Moon has just put in an appearance 👍

Indeed, that's how they work. It's Blindingly Obvious (that's a wee joke btw) And why some of us flick the parking brake switch when we stop in traffic and a vehicle pulls up behind.

Sounds like the lights are somehow back-feeding the ignition. Do you have a rodent problem? Any water damage? Dodgy aftermarket stereo?

Get an early mk3 Superb if you can, even if you get a nice facelifted mk2 from 2015 its still an old dog from 2008 underneath and does handle like one.

Not trying to be funny but having covered just 13500 miles in 5years, your car is probably a higher risk of having issues than a car that's had average use. Stands to reason - moving components aren't being regularly lubricated.

Got mine done today, cost£1079. Car just over 5 years old so was told it was needed despite having a low mileage (36,000). The job seems to have required a lot of parts and apparently a specialist tool for the 1.6 TSI Petrol engine (the tool costs around £1000 itself). Was told 6 hours work but recording dashcam showed nearer 4 hours in the workshop. The old belt showed very little sign of wear but better safe than sorry I guess and wanted to keep the 2 year all in service plan warranty intact!

The Superb MK2 hatchback/estate with standard ride height will have similar handling. This is because although the estate will be slightly heavier at the rear and have a slightly higher centre of gravity, the rear springs are slightly stiffer. However, you can easily change the springs and shock absorbers to improve handling, especially if the original shock absorbers are past their best. With a 10 year old secondhand car, it's probably best to concentrate on the car's condition. If you want good handling, just make sure the springs are in good condition (ie. not broken or sagging) and the shock absorbers are in good condition. Refreshing old, worn shock absorbers can transform the handling.

Hi,It should work like this,Green-safe distance,Amber-getting close to object and finally Red-STOP IMMEDIATELY as you will colide with object.Hope this helps.Cheers Andy

Thanks All experts I think I found issue , I think culprit so far seems airbox thermostat as mentioned be @Breezy_Pete as per below link , since I have tested airbox thermostat and it was not fully closing after heating with hair dryer which may have correlation as when car used to get warm on motorway EPC+Engine light used to come with power loss and it was consistent even after disconnecting lambada sensor. I had put extra small steel thin strip to push spring so that it closes flap which still does not close but it much better than before , planning to seal with heat resistant tape as part is not available in UK and removing part from spring is difficult as per experience shared by experts. Request all skoda owners having high milage cars to test and airbox thermostat it is very easy to open and test it, especially when cars computer logs error which is no way directly relevant . Will keep you posted . So far driven 70 miles on. motorway at the 70 speed and all was smooth car had no issue. To be extra cautious on my request my mechanic cut the exhaust pipe and shown me that catalytic converter was in very good condition he pumped lot of high pressure air some carbon came out from exhaust which was not as much as thought considering the age of car. He cleaned EGR valve as well again it was not bad , put new spark plugs they were very good as well . I generally use Cat cleaner liquid/ other carbon cleaner products at least 1-2 time in year which may be helping keeping engine clean. Thanks all for support. Hope it helps others. Cheers raky

Just got car back from dealership. They've installed 1941 so looks like it's live for them now.

How to tell when a dealer is lying to you... when you see their lips moving. The fastest connection I can think of via diagnostic plug, would take 3 hrs to send the amount of data. ODIS would be used to verify all is well, and to send back diagnostic protocol to factory/importer for payment of warranty work. Anyhow, the main thing is your car got the update needed, fingers crossed it now behaves.

I've recently bought a 2012 superb estate and noticed the ride wasn't as compliant as I was hoping for. found out the two rear springs were broken, both in the same place, as a result I had less travel on the springs, replaced them and it's so much different now, far more comfortable and smooth

I do confirm, I am checking right now the TPI from erWin and it's clearly stated, USB-C.

Aye for the passengers

The EA211 Evo 1.5 ACT Self Study Program says the belt is maintenance free, if you put a Evo2 car into the Digital Service system there is no distance or time interval BUT I would say 100k miles or ten years. Anyone who does one of these MUST have the 007 digital valve timing checker which is £k and currently unavailable.

The EA888, especially the 1.8, has a terrible reputation for drinking oil especially pre 2013. The only cure is to fit the updated pistons. The reason is the low drag ring design which reduces Co2 emissions on paper by about 1 gram per Km but in reality makes them drink oil, but hey, it's "saving the planet" 🐮 💩

The Belt might well be the same. Other components being replaced are not the same. Yes there were and are 1.4 TSI and TSI ACT, and 1.5 TSI non ACT and 1.5 TSI ACT across the 4 brands. I have not heard from anyone's mouth or heard or ready anyplace of any catastrophic failures or issues other than from the work being done and wrongly. That is an issue. So what we need is THE CAR MANUFACTURERS RECOMMENDATION, That is VW, SKODA, SEAT or AUDI, and then you might have the Importers recommendation, guidelines, specification or schedules in writing. Get it from the horses mouth, get it in writing, get it confirmed exactly what is required to be done when in the UK if it is a UK registered car with an Extended or Used car Warranty. The OP has pretty well tried to get the info, has the info from a source and that might or might not be worth the paper or screen it is written on.

The All-in-1 service allows for one pollen filter change and one extended scope during the duration of the package. According to the service schedule, the pollen filter would be changed year 2 and 4 so that's bang on and explains why your pollen filter was changed this service. Extended scope? But that's only scheduled to be done in years 3 and 5 so that's what was confusing me as to why it was carried out at this service. Both items are included in the All-in-1 program, but are done at different services / years. Then when you said that the brake fluid was also included makes me wonder. Are you 100% sure it's Skoda's All-in-1 service program that's being carried out on your car or could it be a service schedule unique to the particular dealer you purchased the car from? i.e. you can only have the services completed by that dealer? Whatever you have, it sounds all right. 👍 Take lots of negative feedback from dealers with a pinch of salt. Typically people come to forums to complain, few people ever come to offer praise. That explains the heavy bias against dealers. As far as I can tell, none of them are short of business so they must be doing something right.

Odds are @TheWanderer has a good idea, your firmware is very old, and I could be wrong, but I think there are fixes for wireless AA mentioned in a TPI document. You really should consider the upgrade.

I was told at a dealership I visited that the Karoq and Ateca were fundamentally identical, although the Karoq had the edge when it came to the interior, driving assistance. It was also said the Skoda badge was preferred over Seat

Thanks @kodiaqsportline @toot for all your replies. This has clarified things for me and I definitely wont be running off immediately to change my cam belt as I have just hit the 5 year mark. I understand there might be a risk involved with this and hopefully I am not the chosen one to be reporting of a cam belt failure on here

I'd try updating the infotainment system firmware to 1941, it seems to cure an awful lot of issues, I've had absolutely no more problems with restarts since I updated it.

Whilst new to me, the car has just turned 4 years old with 16000 on the clock. It's a 1.5 petrol DSG 4x4. It's my first Skoda and this was my first visit to the dealer for a service. I've read plenty of horror stories about visits to dealers and I agree, you have to have your wits about about you, but I can't fault the service I received. I dropped the vehicle off, they gave it the once over and told me what they recommended and i let them get on with it - they even changed the batteries in both key fobs as part of the service.

Well, after all that, my finances now look like refurbing the original DIFF is now the only option so my diesel/petrol query is no longer a factor. I'll just be pushing the refurb people to get it right (and not fob me off with a 'fubar' diagnosis – reading here it suggests the common issues with VAG DIFFs are very fixable). Do appreciate all the advice and info here though, so thank you. I'll be back once the DIFF is sorted to restart my 'why is my Scout surging… fuel injection issues?' thread – see elsewhere in these fora! I will get my car to 100% ~96% :0)

Brain fart: I wanted to type “Yesterday”, but my fingers typed “on Friday” in this message.

All the tech in the world and now cameras / radar in vehicles, lane keep assist, collision avoidance and still tyres are wrecked on potholes, drain covers and very often that big sheet of steel that straddles a lane at a diversion / road works, or other iron works on roads. I like XL (Reinforce sidewall) tyres for a bit more protection and damn the harder ride if there really is as i never notice that. Tyres can still get wrecked, but maybe just less often.

At some stage we are all going to have to make the change from our Yeti to another vehicle. It is interesting that almost everyone who has a Yeti is finding it difficult to find a better alternative. The Service manager at the dealer I use said the same - they have many Yeti owners who previously changed their cars at 4-5 year intervals who seem to be holding on to their Yeti’s. I really don’t need a larger car but like the elevated driving position and, well, just the convenience and drive of the Yeti. Only alternative I can see at the moment is the VW T-Cross and am hoping they improve the cabin etc. in the facelift model due later this year. Kia Soul is nice but I am not prepared to go electric at this stage.

This is the one I recently fitted to mine on my preFL VRS (MQB CAM A) - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000230897829.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_allProduct.8148356.2.1cfe1284Jh7V8B&pdp_npi=3%40dis!GBP!￡42.66!￡32.95!!!!!%4021038edf16855758245143820e5114!12000030861906206!sh!UK!3692179596 Straight plug and play without any need for coding. Also didn't get hit by customs charges either - delivered earlier than expected by EVRI as well.

I don't think one exists. The strap type ones shouldn't be fitted because the tailgate hinges and spoilers are not designed for the loads. And even if you fitted one, would need to plug in a trailer light board because otherwise would obscure some lights or numberplate which is illegal in most (possibly all) European countries. That leaves fitting to the roof rails, or to the towbar. The only other option is to put back seats down and carry bike inside.

Fingers crossed, good luck.

@skomaz Re ORA Funky Cat servicing. (Just cross the dual carriageway from the dealer i am getting the MINI from. That is about they only thing similar.) An article from this week on Peter Vardy Dundee. Well some customers. http://thecourier.co.uk/fp/news/dundee/4523083/peter-vardy-dundee-protest

Hello. I have KONI SPECIAL ACTIVE in my TDI 190 4X4 COMBI and I DO NOT RECOMMEND THEM. Many come with manufacturing faults and then the Technical Service washes its hands. In my case, as soon as the car was lowered, a shock absorber made a noise and Koni Spain said that it was within tolerances, the installer bought another one and put it on for me at no cost. Right now after about 20k kms, in bumps at low speed they don't absorb anything, they sound more than the standard ones. On the highway they are better than the OEMs, but they lack firmness. Don't hesitate, ride B6.

The weather in the east Midlands this evening made for lovely skies 🌈

Sea horse

So got some more information - The Aux fluid pump on the gearbox failed after a software update. This only affected cars from 2017-2018.

Disc yes, caliper carrier no.

Oh, you know those guys so well!!! I'm scheduled for the update at the dealership next week, and the guy was warning me it will take 3-4 hours... I didn't know whether to laugh, cry or feel insulted... Not sure if they're lying to their clients or if they're Simply not-Clever.

More fooling around with this axle. Wire brushed it and soaked it in rust remover gel, which didn't really work. In fairness its rougher than the axle i put in the monte. Used the dregs of a tin of silver hammerite to see what that'd look like. Looks ok, but I think hammered black will look better and won't be so obvious when rust starts popping through. Tried to use a tool from work to swap the bushes but didn't get a chance. So did it myself. Pain. Used a makeshift puller tool consisting of some nuts, a threaded bar, a pipe and a wheel bearing to try pull the bushes but it only removed the centre part. So did what I done last time and drilled the nylon part of the bush out to try get it to collapse. Took ages, made a mess. But eventually got there. New bushes I have are Lemforder ones with a 6R0 part number which matches the number on etka for the vrs. If I destroy these I'll get poly bushes again but I'd much rather these. Seemingly the standard bushes allow for a bit of (passive) rear steer. Although the part number matches on etka, these bushes don't have the black end caps the bushes in the vrs axle had. Etka had 2 bushes for it, the other being 1k0, which was greyed out indicating its not for the vrs. Stripped down and hanging up. Will order heatshields and replace them on the car so they aren't damaged. These ones aren't great.

Today i ordered a New MINI Cooper S electric level 3. Silver, Black Roof & Mirror caps, 16" Victory Black wheels, Black Leather interior, Black Roof lining, Panoramic Glass sunroof, Privacy glass. (Without the Piano Black exterior trim option. No bonnet stripes, no roof rails.)

Mine was on 1900, it then did several downloads and that's when the problems started, had multiple issues which seem to have got worse, varooom kindly sent me the link, from which I downloaded 1941 and after thinking hard about it, I installed it and everything has been performing beautifully ever since.

No, you're not wrong. There should be a circular knob covering that hole from your picture - rotating it would open or close the cold air flow inside the glove-compartment. My car has it - built end of August 2022. You should definitely go talk to your dealer. By the looks of it, your picture shows the pipe bringing the cool air is also missing...

Battery a bit low? Might be worth putting it on charge overnight to see if it still doesn’t work next day when fully charged. Or just enjoy it not working, would save either myself or Mrs DSL switching it off after every start! 😆

I was under the impression that start/stop always defaults to on after switching off and restarting.