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@Lloydlee Welcome. There could be various things and if you have not already got around to doing visual checks with wheel on and off the ground then wheel off you had best go see a mechanic and find out just what it might be. Suspension, brakes, engine mounts or what ever. Don't put off finding out it might be minor it might not.

That 98kWh model would be interesting, particularly if it has 800v batteries.

I think you use the past tense a little prematurely I have to say I dislike Teslas though. I like that they moved on the EV game substantially (even though I am not a fan of EVs) and their motors and batteries were a game changer in the early days. But the shonky build quality and imho, ridiculous interiors, just plain wind me up (give me some buttons for goodness’ sake, I hate these big screens that 'do-it-all'). I'm not a fan of the styling either, although the S model has grown on me a little over the years.

Directional is probably a strong word... They are very simple things. Quick sketch: So yes, it fitted 'upside down', both the circuit and new accessory will be drawing power through the original fuse. It 'could' cause nuisance tripping but given how much power a dash cam uses, it's quite unlikely to cause any issues. If you remove the original fuse and the accessory still works, you got it right. If you remove the original fuse and the accessory doesn't work, you got it wrong. Simples If you do want to use a multimeter, remove the original fuse and the tap, then see which of the fuse connectors on the board has 12v. That'll confirm which side is power...

I think its a great engine, especially with DSG. Great economy (circa 70mpg easily on sensible driving on steady runs) pulls well, AdBlue not an issue for me, topped it up once and no issues. Software, as with all Mk4 Octavia's, is the main issue but if it has 1941 you should be in a good place as its fixed most of the issues. I agree on the extended warranty, they did a £35 a month deal for me (mine is getting to the 3 year point) for 2 years and also includes two services and MoTs, plus usual breakdown and recovery, so basically £840 for two years, a no brainer for me as I will now be keeping it.

It was an Add On that you had to tick for around £180. I just fitted an after market one that's half the price and much better than the OSM one.

U don't have to agree. I prefer practicality over appearance. If I had the option, I would prefer looking out a clean rear window than a dirty window. This is based on my experience of having a liftback with a rear wiper, and now having one without.

Just a update guys ,put it on the topdon diagnostic scanner and it showed body control module error, but as I wasn't getting any other problems with the electrical systems, I decided to try and change the parking aid module by the accelerator pedal (ebay £30) and it all works again perfect,,so I'm guessing the parking aid module had failed and wasn't communicating with the body control module,thanks again everyone for you help. ATB Matty 👍

Who quoted that, and do they know these cars. Or these gearboxes? In 2007 they were supposedly 'SEALED FOR LIFE' which they were not, but there was no Service Schedule then around 80,000 miles people thought this can not be right. There might be mention now of 100,000 oil changes. Best leave alone if it works well IMO. Your fuel filter might do with replacing.

Van they could probably even stretch to larger capacity say 100kWh standard and 150kW LR both on 350Kw capable platforms. weight/cost would be a factor of course. 400 miles is a car is probably 250 in a van so 250 to 375 mile ranges (at a price) would likely clean up as Citroen/Peugeot vans.

If they offer that in Stallantis vans they will be getting someplace. People would be able to have AWD EV Camper vans and maybe the utility companies and emergency use them for their needs.

No experience of that engine at all but.. generally. 1. A proper diagnostic read may be useful 2. If still no codes, live data misfire data may tell you which cylinder it is or if it is across all 3. If cylinder specific, coil packs, plugs or injectors are all possibilities. Usually, you can swap out plugs or coil packs on the problem cylinder, one item at a time, and see if problem moves. If it does, it's the item you just moved. If it doesn't move its something else on that cylinder..

The 1.2tsi and consequentially the transmission is not a combination that is talked about much on here. Many on here may not be as familiar with it as compared to the other bigger volume combinations. Take from that what you will. As @Gazpoints out, there was an oil change campaign on the dq200. There have been problems with mechatronics failures, clutch packs wear more quickly than the wet type. Some people see no problems though. Overall, if it is the 7sp dry clutch dq200 in the 1.2tsi, i'd say they have proven less reliable than dq250 6sp wet clutch dsg, but that doesn't mean you'll definitely have a problem. The reference tag should be to @tootin previous poster comments I believe.

Thanks Warrior193, So it does appear to be true - Just didn't want to take the one Skoda main dealers word for it - I could have rung plenty more main dealers - but thought there is more value in getting fellow Skoda drivers view - So thanks for confirming. Jakk.

Thanks for that.

Funny thing is I have beaten quoted ICE figures regularly with high performance cars. Admittedly, it's usually on long motorway trips, but anything over 30mpg on a car with over 500bhp is a pleasant surprise. My old M4 could reach mid 30s mpg on a long run ( WLTP 28.5 mpg ). I sold a Corvette C4 (5.7 V8) to a chap who was driving it from Manchester to his home on the South coast. I told him he could get 30mpg out of it if he kept to 70mph. He rang me once he got home to say he had managed 30mpg and was more than happily surprised.

Much the same thing really with ICE cars as well, very few actually get close to their claimed range.

For the same reason many here hated BMW divers.

Just checked - working OK. I thought that was all ok as the rear wiper and rear sensors were operating normally when reverse selected.

Just heard that a supposed market leader and the future of car hire / club has gone into administration. So what the hell happened there then? Could be some cheap EV's on the market anytime soon. All-Inclusive Electric Car Subscriptions | Onto

as a new member, there is a very short time limit on how long you have after posting when you can edit a post.. like a few minutes...

yes, sorry I forgot to mention it's a 1.2 110 TSI CJZD

That makes sense. You are aware of the risks so it up to you if you wish to try it out. The mobile flasher is probably only going to use the same map and equipment anyway. Your way you get the knowledge and experience. Make sure you look into the ECU types as some require removal and modding. It may be preferable to do it your way too as you have some sort of idea what is happening to your car. Please share your experience. I'd like to know how you get on. Doesn't sound like many on here have much knowledge on DIY hence our recommendations to get it done at a known good tuner.

New tensioner acquired from TPS. Could have gone aftermarket but went OEM for the supposed definitive "K" version of tensioner. Not too steep at £56.00

Used prices of my target EV's appear to rising, so I gave up on the idea and have taken over my daughter's 2019 SEAT MIi, as an urban run-around and added a 2018 1.2 Petrol FIAT 500 to the family fleet.

Totally understand your frustration. Just a thought, but isn't it a bit harsh to judge Škoda when it's the dealer at fault? Buying from a different outlet could be a much better story, or buying a different brand from the same chain and get the same problem.

If you're looking for a company to remap your car, I can thoroughly recommend Angel Tuning, Scotland. https://angeltuningscotland.co.uk/?fbclid=IwAR2AUwnge1wZ1CgeM3aQaw-jbL1t6Mev16mH90oXBekLAMHGz5FPnDPsfQg

Good to talk. Each of these if they can not help will tell you who can. Scottish businesses a long time in the industry. Each totally to be trusted.

You're obviously several years out of date with the variable displacement compressors that are fitted to cars. The fuel usage can start from almost zero and never reaches the mpg levels of older electromagnetic clutch systems in the UK climate.

The struts are definitely correct (checked the label on the struts themselves) and the geometry does match up within a few mm. Think this might be contributing to the problem. The new struts take considerable force to depress and I also changed control arms at the same time. Without a lift/ramps, I had to jack up the suspension corner-by-corner when torquing the control arms and think the force of the new springs/struts might be preventing the control arm from reaching their fully unladen position. I managed to get a 10mm drop (now down to 400mm which is just within the 391 +/- 10mm spec) by disconnecting the control arm from the ball joint and torquing it in position without the strut/spring being a factor. Think I will leave the struts/springs to settle for a while and then re-torque the control arms once everything has settled properly. Appreciate all the advice!

I would agree that a 'targeted' update might be far too much to expect from anybody at Skoda. As I (& several others) have previously commented the cars are (generally) excellent but the bells & whistles.......? Far too many, far too complex & potentially far too distracting for safe driving.

Pure dead brilliant pal, i'll have a look into them, cheers I had a look on their site the other night, unfortunately another one that doesn't list the NX (mk4) octavia yet, i know the golf 8 is same but there will be some slight differences with bits so dont want to go down that road

Bedrock VW in Motherwell. They're even pure dead handy for you to visit.

If the dimension from the lower spring platform to the cut out for the steering knuckle clamp bolt is different then the ride height will be. Its very easy to check. Another poster corrected me long ago when I said that dampers damp and have no effect on the ride height, the gas filled ones do have a noticeable spring force when new as witnessed by the retaining wire for packaging and transport, I doubt whether that translates to any measurable ride height difference compared to the road springs against the vehicle mass but he was correct, this spring force is lost when the dampers age. If the old and new struts have the same dimension mentioned above then it would have to be the gas precharge.

It's probably a broken wire in the rubber bellows to that door. Taking it much further requires access to the car, and a multimeter.

One of your build codes is G07 so you have front shock absorbers with OEM part number 5Q0413031FP. I suspect 5Q0413031FP is similar to 5Q0413031FN (from the VW Golf MK7 GTI) so you could try searching for Bilstein front shock absorbers using that OEM part number. A similar thing happens with the Superb MK3, where Bilstein haven't listed suitable shock absorbers for that car, yet owners have successfully fitted Bilstein shock absorbers that are listed for the similar Passat B8. 5Q0413031FP Front shock absorber G07 (from Octavia MK3) https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/OCT/753/4/411/411006 5Q0413031FN Front shock absorber (from VW Golf MK7 GTI) https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/vw/RDW/GOLF/746/4/411/411004 If you search for Sachs front shock absorbers using 5Q0413031FP, you will see that these Sachs front shock absorbers are also listed for 5Q0413031FN...which would indicate that they are interchangeable. Bilstein B4 22-230539 (sold to replace 5Q0413031FN) https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/5q0413031fn?search=OEN 5Q0413031FN&supplier[0]=16

The more expensive maps will be specific to your car. It may be a generic base map but will likely be tweaked to match the condition of your engine and will also be a better product. You may well get a boost from an off the shelf DIY map but there is no way to know it is safe and working correctly.

Are your reversing lights working?

Never mind, found the files and was able to update. The animations and navigation sure do feel faster. I like it. Hopefully also the end of reboots and the last few errors although I only had them occasionally.

I’m also tight. 😅 just want a reliable little petrol automatic for London driving. I service and repair my engines like OCD, but auto boxes are beyond me.

The same could be said about always having the air con turned on all the time ! As long as 55mpg & over is possible thats ok with me 😉👍

I live daaaan saaaf mate, although the relevance of this is lost on me😂. I won’t comment on the rest of your post as I’ve no idea what the hell you are going on about🤷🏻‍♂️ Happy motoring my Scottish friend😘

We had some pretty dense mist and a lovely sunset on the way home earlier - so pleased we took the scenic route 👍

A couple from last weekend - a trip to N Wales. Stunning 2km of glorious beach at 11.30 on a Sunday morning - you don't get it that quiet in the South of England!

@wyx087 Lets just agree that this is counterproductive to keep this somewhat silly tit-for-tat going any longer, it is boring the other members and scoring points off each other achieves nothing.

I couldn't resist Kopacek's recent 22% of sale, so i added some "aero fins" to Gandalf's rear end....diffusser. Removed the diffuser so i could paint it gloss black, then the aero fins glued on as a single piece. As a result, my drag coefficient has dropped now and my fuel consumption has improved remarkably!! ....yeah, and pigs fly too!!!

Run the new module routine which will copy everything including mileage. it will also start the immo service routine to code the keys to it. after this coding must be manually done with vcds or odis-e

Took it back up to crail last weekend. New fastest time and trapping a lot faster than it did on the old engine. Vs 500whp corsa c Fn2 civic Astra VXR 2jz s13 Next one was the fun one Vs b204 Astra As you can hear shifting from 2nd to 3rd and didn’t have a 3rd gear. On my mounts they are solid mounts which have spacers on them like this the nut had came off and the spacer came out and lodged itself in the cable engine pulling the linkage out when I changed gear 😂 thankfully an easy fix. Darkside wanted the car at a show down their way so it went down at the weekend. when the car originally went on this engine it was given a base map then every since then it was remapped remotely on the road so never knew how much power it made. It’s also got some new experimental cams as well and thought why not see how much power it has. Certainly surprised us and explains why it’s faster than it was before! Now on 172 dyno pulls on darksides dyno 😂 Some from the show

06K 103 485 D last revision of this cap, I think. With D in the end. Installed it on 2.0TDI on Octy Mk3 and Golf Mk7. No leaks so far. Tip: install oil cap with dry contact area (rubber vs plastic inlet tube).

Hello! You have to remove the 2 bolts under the instrument cluster (circled red on the pictures). You get to those by pulling the plastic with the leather cover (also underneath the instrument cluster) on the bottom sides towards you ( 2 clips). After that, you just need to pull the instrument cluster towards you (out of its sitting possition). I find it easiest to put my whole hand underneath the instrument cluster and just pulling the entire thing. Hope this helps! Have a nice day, Voukk P.S.: You do not have to remove the plastic on the sides of the instrument cluster to get the instrument cluster out.