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400 miles in and I have discovered two things. One, the car has indicators!!!! And two, people let me out at junctions again

Yeah completely agree, I'm a touch Naive to the world of maps and mega naive to how much damage it could potentially do the car if not correctly. Thanks for all your help guys, I'll definitely take it to a VW performance specialist to ensure it's got all the right plugs, fluids, filters etc. But I'll definitely take it as a learning point and try and stay with them whilst it's being done so I know. I mean it makes a noise, not the noise that I want but yeah!

Sounds like you got the audio accompaniment you were seeking.

Now in its sixth annual instalment, the CarGurus Manual Handbrake Report reveals less than one-in-10 new car models on sale are equipped with a manual handbrake. Additionally, consumers have 61% fewer models to choose from compared to just four years ago. Last year, CarGurus, found Abarth was the sole mainstream manufacturer to offer a manual handbrake on all its models; but, following the recent launch of the Abarth 500e, there is now no major brand that offers a manual handbrake across its entire range. Since the first instalment of the CarGurus Manual Handbrake Report in 2018, the percentage of models on sale with a manual handbrake has dropped from 37% to 9%. CarGurus UK Editorial Director, said: “It seems the writing’s on the wall for the fabled manual handbrake as the percentage of new cars equipped with one dips into single figures. Is this a good step in the right direction? Personally, I prefer a manual brake. Less to go wrong and cheaper. Those of you who have an electric handbrake could let us know.

Whiseling from the front is most likely the turbo failing. The tune was pretty cheap, as @MarkyG82said, did they check the health of the car and tune it on a dyno or did they just send a standard map. Also After turning the TSI, you have to run on 98 fuel. In France, a proper tune is more like 650 euros. Take the car back, have the standard map put back in, get your money back and go to a proper specialist because a whiseling turbo is never good.

What root is getting at is did you make sure the general health of the car was good before loading the map in? To add to the questions, what did they do (if any) in the way of checking codes before and after and also checking the emissions? A high power map for £250 is questionable when most known tuners are charging £400+. We aren't trying to put the tuner/map down, just trying to make sure you aren't about to blow your engine. As always though, best to go back to the tuner with any issues.

Not my photo, but the Aurora Borealis could apparently be seen from Peacehaven last night: G

Miggs - I know how you feel. Can I be alone in thinking that using the vehicle (any vehicle) these days is, say, 25% knowledge of how to make the vehicle move & 75% of how to interpret & make work all the electronic gizmos ??

Two side bumps are intended to make some space for a big V8 engine soon... 🤣

Final evening of the light show at Rufford Park this evening.......

On our last trip to Scotland we stopped off at the Beinn Eighe car park near Torridon, hoping to see the local celebrity - Callum the Stag. He was there and was very happy to pose for photographs, and he took quite a liking to the Karoq. 71 plate Skoda Karoq Sport Line 1.5 TSI DSG in metallic Race Blue. (If you type Callum the Stag into Youtube you can see several videos shot by other visitors to the car park.)

@StonekeeperHe said he changes every 12-18 months. That is long before 3 years and a first MOT. Other than UK there are EU / European countries whee Skoda Warranties are 2 years.

Thank you for the information!

It can't re-lock itself. Needs manual downwards pressure to close it, then it will lock. Important not to leave the keys in it.

I bought new scala from the day 1 when I have first checked oil level when the engine is on operating temperature and the car was only 70 km on clock oil level was about on 3/4 level betwenn min and max yesterday car had 800 km....and the oil level is same - 3/4 between min and max after beiong on operating temperature and checked 10 min after shutting down the engine I didnt check the oil level when car/oil is cold. Oil (0-20) is very thin and not easy to read it on stick. Scala is 1.0 tsi 110 ps, producet a month ago (in 9/2023) Under the bonnet is said on the sticker that the oil is 0-20, 508 00/509 00 I have a bottle of oil genuine VW 50800/50900 SAE0w 20 Longlife IV FE that I bought at the dealers for mine previous car (vw 1.5 tsi my23) Is this oil good for scala? Should I top of the oil just a little bit? I am in process of running in the engine so I wonder what is best for the car. Thnx

Interestingly, when I had a Mk2 Superb, I had what I and others thought was wheel bearing noise. The Delaers' Master Technical came out on the road with me and said, yep, sounds like a wheel bearing. Took it in the workshop and found no bearing issues. A trip to my trusted tyre depot and they reckoned it was a tyre 'out of round'; took the wheel off and demo'd it. The tyres were a 30k miles old but with a reasonable amount of tread left. Anyway, new tyres fixed the noise. Shared the info with my future son-in-law as he was concerned about bearing noise. He needed new tyres and they sorted the noise too.

Entretien courant. Both cars had the cambelt changes typpexed on the bonnet slam panel so I think he has the servicing done, he has 2 work vans and she the little hatchback and a people carrier, I think she ignores all the warning lights and just bends his ear when anything goes wrong.

Requirement for a sustained button press helps avoid accidental (bum-dialling style) boot opening. Unlike other doors, the boot can't re-lock itself automatically once it's popped, I think. Vaguely think the time can be varied with VCDS, 1 second hold, 2 seconds etc.

Update.... I got the car through it's MOT with no waning light issues. The EGR issue may / may not come back after yesterday's valve clean up, will keep an eye on that. I slipped the garage an extra £10 and they kindly hooked it up to their own diagnostic equipment. Fault reported on front driver side ABS sensor so will swap that out. I would think the wiring harness is also worth a check here. Today is a good day!

That I understand thanks! I presume thats a better deal than M. Tout le Monde gets? Servicing included sounds good, what happens if something breaks outside of warranty say a cam belt on an ICE or your battery pack taking on water, who gets the bill, you or Motability? Can you exit before the term without penalty to get a new car every couple of years or even every year like 30year........ has done? I paid £3200 for my vehicle 3 years ago, all in with the repairs it stood me in at £4K so after a year I was ahead of the game, short of having an accident I intend to run it forever.

And she cooked the clutch trying to reverse against the handbrake and was creating about the smoke! She's a lovely lady but a bit dramatic, I'm pally with the husband who is working all the hours under the sun at the moment so wanted to help out so he didn't return home to a bent ear! We call it Trop bon, trop con here! She runs an African takeaway resto, authentic Senegalese food and its superb so I'm sure I will be suitably rewarded.

How have you connected the canbus wiring? Have you checked for power and ground at the camera? if you can’t get comms with the camera it will either have no power or the signal isn’t wired to the correct place

No software update required. D to F is fine A,B,C,D,F are all early to late revisions. Just not E for some reason

The two systems have different 'resistors'. The Climatic (semi-automatic A/C) has this type of wound resistor (actually three in series with tapping off points and a thermal fuse) Climatronic (fully automatic) A/C system has a transistorised version that looks very different: I think @Wez5480 is saying is that he went looking for the former, but didn't find it because he actually has the latter (6Q2 907 521A for RHD; 6Q1 907 521A for LHD), which isn't in the same place. Both of those part numbers have been superseded by a suffix B version. Genuine ones are rather pricey.

Even WD40 applied vigorously might shift the dots. I'm unsure if that's the extent of it though. Almost like there's a large sidelight bulb (dim dip) that's reflecting the headlight beam upwards. Or maybe an LED dim-dip that also reflecting and putting out many more lumens than a bog standard bulb.

I’m currently on H56 and 1896 with H44 and 2088 for the display unit software.

It should be the same ish, yeah! My 17's 225 45 17 The Gemini's: 225 40 18 It shows a minor size difference. +0.4% Probably not worth the bother indeed.

Was the car serviced and spark plugs changed, and air filter checked and the car running E5 / 99 Ron min superunleaded before the remap and checked then for no Logged Fault codes.? How many miles has the car done?

From what I can see from your photographs, both the head and block are in a condition that I would expect after 90K miles. It needs a good clean up, the valves removing and lapping in. Depending on the flatness of the head it may need a skim. Whilst the engine is dismantled to this level I would fit a new timing chain and tensioner. Obviously I cannot comment on the cylinder bore condition from the photos Even with a "reconditioned" engine could you end up with an engine in a worse condition than the one you have.

Theoretically, 1 minute 12 seconds 😉 When done through the car, there could be other factors affecting the download speed, such as throttling on the server side (very likely), infotainment purposely throttling the connection depending on licenses, and so on.

I'll give it a go @J.R.

Thnx.......if engine cold oil level is at 1/2 between min and max when oil is on operating temperature oil is at 2/3 between min and max My dipstick looks as on the 1. picture (from 3 above in line) posted by. Mr. Rooted So I will add a litle bit of oil, just a little bit (1/10 od 1 litre) and than chek it again

Dummy vehicle speed sender. It fills the hole on the gearbox and gives the redundant loom connector something to plug into. When these cars changed to using the ABS wheel speed sensors for vehicle speed calculation instead of a dedicated sensor in the position where you found that, they didn't bother changing the wiring loom. Instead they designed and fitted that piece of plastic and plug the wiring into it. It has no function except to fill the hole and give the wiring connector somewhere to attach.

I fitted a Hardrace front tower strut brace on my Superb a year and half ago now. It has improved turn in and the front end certainly feels more rigid/planted. It complements the Hardrace rear swaybar nicely, that I already had. Would recommend it, and it's easy to install.

Touch up kit is good for paint colour, but the brush it contains only lead to poor quality result. This kind of tool gives a much better result: https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005003937519496.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.38ab4dd0u9uDkB&algo_pvid=3ce5fe84-405b-4d4b-b700-637c1e4f2652&algo_exp_id=3ce5fe84-405b-4d4b-b700-637c1e4f2652-3&pdp_ext_f={"sku_id"%3A"12000027511367368"}&pdp_npi=2%40dis!EUR!8.56!5.57!!!!!%402100bb4a16672607130663010e9927!12000027511367368!sea&curPageLogUid=he4xkkNrRfl1 No dough around the area to treat. I've seen this on "Car SOS", they treated stone chips on the bonnet of a Porsche 911 Mk1 bonnet, with excellent result. I've done the same on my front bumper and bonnet, very satisfied with the result.

That reminded me of when MIL picked up her new MkII Fabia Scout. She remarked that the indicators gave a nice clicking sound so you knew they were working. Just as well as she was blind as a bat and relied on her other senses to navigate. Only had one run in with a bus in over fifty-five years of driving I'm joking, of course. It was more like fifty-six years. I took that car out for a good old run today as well. Over 100 miles through some twist north German A roads.

Two things. People appreciate others indicating their intentions. The peasants know their place so give way to Lady Eleanor of Boro in her superior V8 Jaaaaaaag.

Compression test on a diesel presumably involves removal of all glowplugs, which carries a risk in itself. Ask your garage what they would recommend, but maybe say that you think it could be the oil cooler (relatively much cheaper job compared to HG), see what they say. If you plan to do any diagnostics yourself, I think dropping the oil to look for coolant is a great suggestion. It will separate out and come out of the drainhole first, I think, if present.

Hi Ords, No sludge around oil filler cap. Judging from comments it seems the way to go is to get a compresion test done by a specialist and take it from there. If as several people suggest it is the oil cooler that would seem to be a much more viable thing to fix? Really appreciate all your comments.

Kamiq uses 5 bolt with 100 spacing and centre bore of 57.1mm Kamiq come with 16, 17, 18 inch wheels in various European countries, tyre sizes are different so outside diameter only varies by few mm. From memory some with biggest diameter won't quite fit in wheel well (literally just few mm to big, although tyres with worn tread (so few mm smaller) will. A special space saver skinny tyre is also an alternative, but bear in mind if you have 18 inch wheel with 215/45 R18 tyres they are obscure size so don't be surprised if got to wait few days for a replacement to come from central warehouse if get bad puncture, as unlikely to be one in stock at local centre.

Hello Balazs_HU, Given that your car is in a tight space in an underground parking area, I would not even consider doing the repair there due to safety issues. The job should, in my opinion, be performed by a qualified mechanic (service technician) with the proper replacement parts. The problem is widespread over VAG'S markets worldwide. Best regards from Denmark, Eric

Try me Please read this: All adverts should be as comprehensive as possible. this helps you, us and any potential buyer. I'd say the ad as it stands won't generate much interest, or it might, you can never tell. We put the template in place so it's easier for you Nice motor though, I have the hatch equivalent. Very under the radar I was looking for an estate when I got mine. Does it have dcc, canton?

@Paws4Thot @EnterName @skomaz @kodiaqsportline @J.R. just fyi, cleaned the topic up as 'guest' has requested to leave.

Right, 3.6 is a peak power it can take. But even small battery has some charging curve, so last quarter or so is charged with less power than when the battery is empty. My charger shows me consumption per hour and I always see that first hour car takes exactly 3.6 and next two hours a bit less.

I thought much the same, especially when he came to connecting the battery leads, you should always leave the ground till the last so if you accidentally touch the positive to the chassis/body while tightening the bolts up, there is no short circuit created.😒

My blower stopped working. Checked all the fan related fuses. All seemed OK. Stuck VAGCOM on the car: Address 08: Auto HVAC (J255) Labels:| 5K0-907-044.clb Part No SW: 3T0 907 044 AR HW: 3T0 907 044 AR Component: Climatronic H15 0401 Revision: 00005001 Coding: 0000000002 Shop #: WSC 73430 790 00999 ASAM Dataset: EV_Climatronic A01006 ROD: EV_ClimaAutoBasis_SK35.rod VCID: 020B568E95530C83DD-8056 1 Fault Found: 9485974 - Air Blower B10BE 96 [009] - Component Internal Failure [New feature! Extended UDS fault detail is only supported by current gen. interfaces] Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 94 Reset counter: 163 Mileage: 236701 km Date: 2023.10.28 Time: 10:04:21 Something to do with the blower. Folllowed this useful video to access the blower. Attached the fan directly to the battery. It spins really fast. OK, it's the "resistor" unit that varies the speed. So, order a new unit. Nop, still no working fan. Anyone got any other suggestions?

Welcome. I assume your car has no auxiliary heater so the coolant needs to get hot, heat the engine before opening the thermostat and allowing heat out of the heater. If i am wrong someone will correct this. ? Is it a petrol engine, as i think a TDI would be taking even longer to let you get heat? All depends on ambient temps.

She would probably appreciate the simplicity, reliability and relative finesse of a first generation Felicia.

From what I can see here: Passat B8 1.6 Coolant Pump C P26F700 Supply Voltage Circuit error | UK Volkswagen Forum the pump in question is known as V488 in the circuit diagrams, which on your car is supplied by fuse 7 in the engine bay fusebox, a 10 amp fuse. If that is intact, check the power and ground are getting to the connector (see @Crasher's image in linked thread) of the pump. Pin 1, a brown wire should connect to earth/battery negative; pin 2 a red/blue wire should have 12V when engine is running; pin 3 green/yellow wire is the control signal from engine ECU pin 37 on the 91-way connector. These all go via an intermediate 10-way connector pair somewhere on nearside (UK) of engine bay, through pin numbers 7, 8, 9. So find that and check for wire damage nearby, as well as near the pump itself.

Ive not been in the back of a Karoq but I find your claim hard to believe. Checking with the brochure dimesion show Karoq being bigger than Kamiq, which is to be expected. Maybe your dads has varioflex seating that reduces headroom Karoq Kamiq