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A few from Attenborough nature reserve earlier today............

The four owners listed could be a mistake, worth checking.

Four registered keepers in 12 months is high but as @Rooted points out there may be situations where this is explainable. Were it me I'd be wanting to see the detail of the service history - ideally including service bills - and would try to follow up via the servicing dealer to learn more. Might also be worth paying the fee (10 squid) for a full car report as you can see more of the keepership history. Of interest in the free version of the report is the note that the current keeper has had the vehicle for 1yr 3months, so where do the other three come into it? https://www.caranalytics.co.uk/select-product/RJ22FHW

I know we are going off topic to Porsches, but they have been building brand new mk1 and mk2 Escorts for several years now. However, they are in development in producing a brand new Metro 6R4 in the next year or so. I think I've read it will will have a Audi derived engine, not a Rover V64V. https://mst-cars.com/6r4

Pax vobiscum folks! 🙂 The topic is Lane Assist, which I, personally, as stated above, find useless, and frequently irritating. I just don't like the car trying to tell me where, on the road, it "thinks" it should be, because it actually knows nothing of the road ahead except where the (often barely visible) lane markings are, whereas I can see the roadkill and the potholes etc. that I want to dodge, and the line I want to take through a bend, etc. etc. So, I turn it off. That is me. Others, inevitably will be different. I am unaware that failing to indicate to change lane on an empty road is an offence. However, that does not mean that I do not indicate to change lane when there is following, or preceding traffic. Signalling is a communication. But to communicate, there has to be a recipient. That does not mean I do not indicate right or left turns at junctions because the road is at that instant clear, because a) one slows to negotiate junctions and others, who may not be turning do not, so the actual traffic conditions can change very fast and b) there may be pedestrians or cyclists that are not initially visible on approach to the junction. But again, that is me. Driving is an observing, anticipating, thinking, and deciding activity and it is inevitable that we are all going to do it in slightly different ways. Horses for courses?

A really nice aspect of this BM2 device is that it can tell you the battery voltage with the car fully 'asleep'. Many people try to measure without ensuring this state has been reached, and then reach conclusions based on poor data.

Oil consumption will vary according to the duty cycle, and the luck of the draw. So far I've only needed 250ml between services on the 1.5 tsi - I'm on variable but I change the oil at the mid point. It does get quite dark by the 8000 mile point. Modern oils are pretty thin compared to the old days. As for trusting the garage - a decade ago I was checking my wife's Skoda 2 weeks after the service. Bit high, I thought, let's suck the excess out. Was I being fussy? Not when I took a litre out. I told the service manager I'd be claiming for a new cat if it failed the MoT on emissions. But I think you can relax. Just find a schedule to check these things that works for you and try to stick to it. Maybe as part of your long trip preparation every 1.5 months. You'll be fine.

I find the 1.5 TSI to consume a lot of oil and I've needed to top it up multiple times before an oil change is due. Mine is on a long life service schedule and I've been topping it up with "TRIPLE QX SynPlus Engine Oil 0W-20 VAG 508/509 - 1Ltr". I did this twice (adding about 1ltr in total) over the last 12 months and the oil service has now just been done. I suspect I'll be topping it back up again in May/June next year. Mark

This was covered a few days ago. With all the doors locked hold down the boot only button for a few seconds and the boot should "pop" If it does, then you know the fuse is ok and the switch in the lock is probably at fault.

Skoda UK increased the cambelt time and distance intervals on the 1st July this year. Sounds like your dealer is as poor at the basics as Skoda themselves. Don’t wait for the proper intervals on the Haldex. Get it done now, but Skoda also decided to omit a very important part of the Haldex service, the removal and cleaning of the pump filter. Be sure to request this is done too. I’d post a picture for you, but it seems this is no longer possible to members that aren’t paid-up Freedom members.

All a blur Toot, the original sleeper looking one had done one or two seasons then came the revamp for the Group B monster, I did find an article on the net which I posted on here, perhaps its amongst my saved favorites.

Hi. Yes it's a 105. Thanks

Have you had the conversation with yourself where you say "how did I manage to do that?" It could well be that you have a faulty door closed microswitch on one of the doors. Best to get that sorted before a possible recurrence.

Battery retaining clamp, not a safety latch, not a latch at all.

That control unit is mounted above the clutch pedal on LHD cars. See first and fourth posts in this thread:

I worked on the revamp of the original development 6R4 to create the group B vehicle in around 1985. The original looked pretty much like a standard Metro, the tyre manufacturer announcing that they would only be producing a limited range of compounds in the then 13" (I think) for the following season prompted a frantic redesign to accomodate the larger wheels and lengthen the wheelbase, it ended up looking like it was on steroids. I still have some A0 dyeline prints of the original styling sketches.

Make it function like the old Mk3 info system with just the new improvements added I.e. The way you could flick through albums on old mk3 Radio station logo adding

Yes, that's the one; it's on the engine side of the battery. Not to difficult to undo, trickier to get back into place if your arms and/or hands are a bit "too masculine" to fit...

No see here LLLParts, items 22 hatch/saloon, 23 estate/combi, unless you meant the moulded in rearmost bits rather than the uppy/downy rear windows?

I don't know about any fault codes.

Some seals that VW-group call o-rings in the parts catalogue are actually rectangular section. Not these though.

Try http://vehicleclips.co.uk, they seem to have everything

Re. time period for sulphation - my understanding is that this process is not instant, but takes some time to occur - so the discharge / recondition cycle should not do any harm. Care needs to be taken that the discharge rate is not so high that it causes buckling of the plates though.

You could have used a multimeter or simply read the instruction manual, the latter for me being against the law 🤣 Yes, several hours or the day after charging that is about right, a battery that has suffered damage from discharge but still useable will be at say 12.4-12.5 volts, same for an older aged battery. That is correct but it depends on what you mean by completely discharged, without the no load recovered cell voltage the term is meaningless, 10.5 volts is classed as completely discharged, beneath that sulphation occurs which is why I dont like the recommendation to discharge to 7.5v to use the recondition function. I'm hoping that someone will explain that sulphation takes days or weeks to occur and discharging rapidly to that point then putting on the charger in pulse mode will do more good than harm.

Yes, mine gets warm too.

Signals (rules 103 to 106), Hide Rule 103 Signals warn and inform other road users, including pedestrians (see ‘Signals to other road users), of your intended actions. You should always From the present UK highway code - note the last three words. Thanks. AG Falco

I am sure you can adjust front assist sensitivity Infotainment, car, settings, assistance systems etc

Nonsense. Mennekes type 2 cables are used on fast chargers. Our limitation is the onboard charger electronics

About that wallpaper.... https://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-12738715/Radio-4-Nick-Robinsons-flippant-apology-row-Boriss-non-existent-gold-wallpaper-Tories-tell-record-straight-live-air.html

If you go for the 17 inch rims for the Kodiaq which take 215/65 R17 tyres, then there is very good selection of premium winter tyres in that size. Might be cheaper to order rims separately, then order the tyres to be fitted to them. Although maybe can get a good deal on complete wheels. Generally tyres are easy to order on internet. Ordering rims is bit more effort as fewer places sell them that advertise online (use the linked catalogue and phone up your nearest dealers parts Dept for a price too) Good 215/65 R17 winter tyres include (what you choose will depend on price and availability), so here is shortlist. : Bridgestone blizzak LM-005 Continental TS870 P Dunlop winter sport SUV Goodyear Ultragrip performance + SUV Hankook i*cept evo3 x W330 SUV Michelin pilot Alpin 5 Pirelli winter Sottozero 3

But that's not the point. You're doing it to negate the LA resisting your change of lane. Is indicating (as a default habit) such a bad practice?

Ah! a lightbulb moment... Now I can see why some are irritated by LA if it's legal (and presumably common practice) in the UK to change lanes in some circumstances without indicating. The law here is pretty strict in that regard, any change of position on the road requires mandatory indication. Indicating is therefore second nature, like fastening the seat belt. Of course, there always those renegades who are predisposed to flouting the road rules in general. However, the fact that a lane change requires indication means the LA doesn't challenge your maneuver. @SteveTheElder is right, why wouldn't you flick the indicator? That way the driver is in control, possibly better than disabling the feature or getting stressed over it?

When was the charger disconnected? No point looking at voltage within less than a couple of hours of disconnection.

Play devils advocate and tell them to put the bolts back in at the same torque levels that they were removed. Bolts don’t come loose unless they were installed incorrectly, are defective or of a poor design, all of which are arguably genuine warranty claims.

To be fair though, assuming the old lock was original, it did last more than 16 years - that doesn't really suggest a serious design flaw to me.

I think the difference in opinion is down to the fact that some people are driving enthusiasts who actually like doing the driving for themselves as opposed to people who are lazy and like to have the car do it for them. Hence the fact that standards of driving in the UK appear to have reduced to abysmal levels. I’m thinking of the types of idiots who drive in the middle lane on motorways for example.

Yes, there are limitations to the Lane Assist but they are learnt very quickly. On local roads the places where LA gives a nudge such as the one lane becoming three are quickly learnt too; just anticipate the LA nudge and steer/drive through it. As for moving to the right hand lane n a dual carriage way, what is wrong with using the indicator? I really do not understand why anyone would disable a very useful bit of technology just so they don't have to use an indicator stalk. 🤷‍♂️ Embrace the technology because it, and more, will be in every car we buy from now on.

Does your car have the feature where a sustained press on the 'unlock' button of the remote starts to drop all the electric windows (and vice-versa for the lock button if windows are left open after shutting all doors)? If it does, try it and see which windows move/don't If it doesn't have that functionality on the fob, try turning and holding the key in the drivers door lock to try to achieve same. If all windows work, that would strongly implicate a switch fault.

Very grateful for all the input - Briskoda is an excellent resource 👍

The Haldex is still @ 3 years / 30,000 miles. Many know to do sooner than that as preventative maintenance and to have it done properly. Not to be skimped on if you have a car you are keeping. PS You want to check if the Pads are down by 10 or 15% and not down to. Ask them the actual measurements they did. As it is maybe if you need brakes done then not by the Up-sellers you are putting your car into.

Hello @hanf, ask your servicing garage to check for the updated VAG recommendation for cambelt service life.

Another option would be a broken wire / connector that moves around when the engine tilts when going into reverse. Often those who have a direct connection between the chassis en the engine.

Hi Guys,The car is diesel. The fly wheel is reported as having found to have raised surfaces / hotspots whilst the securing bolts were not as tight as they should be. The dealer has stated that the flywheel issue is not a warranty matter which surprises me. The master cylinder is warranted and clutch plate was contaminated so covered too. - just can't get OEM parts due to a nationwide shortage and being on back order. will challenge again about the fly wheel as thats certainly not an expected failure under normal motoring conditions and use.

So, I didn't leave it there...😆 I read the eBay listing on the new head unit, and it said that it would accept a reversing camera input without any further modification. After discussing (via email) the available options, it became clear that a unit which replaced one of the number-plate lights would be the one to do the job. This is for a Superb Mk2 facelift estate, with number plate lights that look like this. Once again, I'm unable to post a link, but search eBay for item number 184037233958 This device has the considerable advantage of transmitting its data wirelessly - thus obviating the need to run a cable from the tailgate to the dashboard. I already had after-market LED numberplate lamps fitted, which required a resistor to stop the canbus flagging a fault - I just used the same wiring to connect the lamp. I needed a switched power supply for the transmitter feed, which I took from the black wire going to the rear wiper motor. The loom that comes with the head unit provides all the power and earth connections needed for the display. Now, as soon as I put the car in reverse... ...I get a good view of what's behind me. Excellent bit of kit - and only £37. 🙂 NB This will NOT work with a factory head unit. Once again - hats off to Audio Tech Direct - really helpful vendors.

Dual dashcam installed today. Installation videos on sellers websites saying only 10mn are needed is a joke! It took me several hours to install both cameras properly. I paid attention to use tie-wraps to fix the video wire to existing harnesses to be sure it doesn’t disturb airbags blowing out especially along A-pilar and along the rear seat backrest where my Mk3 has additional airbags for rear passengers. Making the cable connector go through the rubber hose of the tailgate was a mess… I finished quite late and night was already down. I ´ll go for a drive tomorrow to check the video quality and adjust the rear camera pitch angle.

Cheers Lee👍🏻. That should be good for maintenance of the screen. Also, I need to use the CO on SWMBO Focus screen as it’s covered in wiper scratches, so I’ll get the rayon pad from Slims…

That's probably because the system checks these lights at startup. With halogen bulbs these short pulses are unnoticed. Was there a particular reason to replace these bulbs? I use high beam less than 1% of the time, and have no complaints about the enormous amount of light that my bi-xenon headlights (together with the Halogen high beams) emit.

OK - got the white plug(s) to fit - just needed the correct orientation. The GPS socket is a threaded one, whereas the aerial from the car is a coax push fit, so I have left it - as I have left the DAB. I intend to use Waze GPS via my iPhone, so don't need the car's antenna, and the unit doesn't have DAB (I think it's an option, but not one I needed, so didn't check further). I'm about to do a little out-of-sight surgery to the trim that fits over the heating controls, to allow the USB sockets to be accessed to charge my phone - and to connect it to CarPlay. Done! I. have to iron a few wrinkles out - the 'splash' screen it opens with is a VW one(!); it doesn't automatically open in CarPlay - but these are minor snags, and I'll work out a way to sort them. Unusually, even though my iPhone is 'hard-wired' via the USB charging and data cable, my audiobooks won't play over the speakers unless you are also linked by Bluetooth. All the steering wheel controls are working as advertised, and the info usually displayed on the original unit - seat heaters, temp setting etc - are replicated on the new unit. I'd say it was as close to plug-and-play as you can get. If I was installing one for someone else's car now, I estimate it would take 10 minutes or so. It seems one can't put a link on here - so just search for eBay item 185779514166 - that's the one I bought. Mike 😎

White is AM/FM. Blue is GPS. Black is DAB.

Škoda dealerships sell insulated mugs that fit the cupholders. There's also these... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/371803153752?fits=Car+Make%3ASkoda&hash=item569131e558:g:xSgAAOSwiONYPz0w&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoPqcmsd0opHfRRMP%2Fj7yL%2Bdda3S994Nl40y3vqN06zic2YrJKIY%2BSH4zBWe67ykAjIme%2FcVQNvEXWa0RlUDLKpEpQCohknJGW3zzTBZ3W2gEm0YDNGPC11bA0ENTFSEP%2Bp1Xhz2YWZqtwEWFy0LeKZxs26POWuu2RUzcFzSym%2FtmO8i%2FBcV2xM8e6KVju48BwZWMzdgbtJI%2FhxfHzegzJMU%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR56NysWaYQ