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Not an interesting number but it is quite a big one. This is my 92 Ford Courier.

So many stars visible last night ✨️

Closing in on 100k miles.

Seized track rod ends usually are not allowing the track rod too move in them. You may need heat to release the track rod end. I would only change the track rod ends In the past tyre fitters use heat to release the track rod end for me. This takes about 10minutes a side. When I experienced this it was done as part of the tracking cost. I would avoid the place that is feeding you this story. They clearly think you have no idea of what is involved. The main reason I would recheck the rear alignment is the lack of competence demonstrated by the garage. Often places with 4 wheel alignment charge you to check the settings and then more to adjust them to the required values. Good luck.

@RobSuf I can't be certain either way; track rod ends can sometimes be changed without changing the whole rod but it depends on whether the seized fastener is on the ball joint or the rod. Best practice would be to recheck the rear yes. You need open ended spanners, not sockets, to remove track rods. They're normally sold in sets of usual sizes which will include the one you need. I'm going to agree with @J.R. here; Change your garage, and from what you've said look for a local place with a Hunter (trade name) rig and a reputation for being able to use it.

There's no way on earth it takes 4 hours to do a pair of rod ends. I'm not a mechanic. I use a the cheapest blowtorch toolstation sell and a couple of adjustable spanners I got from a carboot sale 20 years ago, and I can free one in 15 minutes. Take it somewhere else, they're trying to blag you. If you want some money out of you just tell them nice try buttercup, but you can't B*****it a B******iter. 😅

What happens is that often the bolts are done up too tight, they should only be just over finger tight 7nm. If they are too tight the threads don't strip, the threaded insert in the roof rail starts to spin rendering it useless. I have done two swaps but am not doing it again.

That is good news and very lucky to have it recovered intact.

Yes, that is quite possible and is even true here in my home city at certain times of the day, but equally at other times you can get up to 30mph for some reasonable distances, but if speed limits are reduced to 20mph, then those 30mph dashes will not be available and therefore must slow down the speed overall and therefore increase journey time overall. This would also be true in Eastbourne or anywhere and ICE cars are spewing more emissions when their engines are revving more in lower gears, slowing traffic down even further to just 20mph max is making the air quality that much lower.

I didn't understood before I read the last posts here that the alignment tool is not a alignment tool, but at tool to get it back to the previous state. So in my shoes that leads to that the tool is useless as of now since I didn't use it before I pulled the subframe down. I'm curious to see how far off and how bad it will be when I pull this back again to see how it aligns up. That said I was planning to let the professional paid garage do the (wheeel) alignment, but didn't realise before I started this job that the subframe is a vital part of the alignment and that I should have taken action before I lowered it to be able to get it back into position. Now I know, just a litte loo late, however I'm still thankful for the postes here that give me more knowledge. I'll try to use the marks from the original fitting by eye to pull it together hopefully close enough to get the car drivable. Today I've collected the new sway bar from the dealer and are planning to start to pull it together this evening.

Normal for an outfit that think they have already got a punter believing that it takes 4 hours to replace 2 track rod ends.

Spot on! The OP might as well be using an arcade game steering wheel for all the feedback there is, the previous generation hydraulic ones were excellent considering the limitations.

The changes you are proposing are not necessarily going to improve the steering 'feel'. I'm guessing that your previous car had hydraulic power steer assistance, hence the feedback through the wheel. The Octavia has electrical power assistance, which while it improves fuel economy (over hydraulic) and is very accurate, this form of assistance is noted as being quite remote in most lower priced mass produced applications. Drive a good old direct unassisted steering sports car and even hydraulic assistance can feel numb by comparison.

No, I decided to go with the 50% of people saying it would be fine. Especially as it's a like for like battery swap. Errors that came up disappeared after 20 metres. Will ask my VAG specialist to check it next time it's in though.

@Rooted The argument for either camp has been discussed many times and every time it becomes clear that it depends on the circumstances. It's a fact that when you lift the go pedal while in gear the engine uses no fuel. However, there is still some loss as the engine is being turned over so the car will slow and you then need to use fuel to get back to speed. Coasting out of gear with the engine running will use fuel to turn the engine over but the car will roll more freely so it's down to the use case as to whether it's more efficient or not. Where you cannot argue the efficiency gain is with any hybrid (HEV, PHEV or MHEV) where the engine cuts out when coasting. The cars we are discussing here are none of those so lets leave the discussion there and think about the original point of driving modes. It seem that the factory changes the activity of the boxes at different times. Is there a link to release date and the functions described?

New battery fitted (only minimal swearing involved). Starts like a dream now, so worth doing. Lighting issue remains though, but the plot thickens... Thought I'd try locking with the light on whilst sat in the driver's seat, then noticed that it seems to think the boot is open/closing (see video attached). Basically keeps flashing up with the boot open graphic. When it's stopped raining, I'll go and test the boot lights (and once I've found the originals in the garage, because obviously I didn't throw them away and obviously I can't remember where I put them...) IMG_4658.1.mov

Hi All, Has anyone on here got issues with the matrix lights dazzling oncoming drivers? My car had this issue and went into the dealer about it. They identified the system as being setup for a left hand drive car, and told me they had rectified the issue. I really had to take their word for it, as I’d rarely used the car at night during the summer months. Now the clocks have gone back, and it getting dark earlier I had the chance to try them in full auto mode. On the first country lane I got to where the matrix lights activated I had about 4 oncoming drivers flashing me within a few minutes. My wife also asked why other cars were constantly flashing me. At that point I turned them off. I know there were posts on the forum a while ago about the issue, so wasn’t sure if the issues had been resolved, or people had given up and stopped using them. I’m not sure I can cope with another round of visits to my local Skoda dealer…

3 things done today: - Air Quality Sensor replaced: No more fault code popping up. - New battery installed. - Appointment book for sunroof side seals replacement (will be replaced in early january). BTW, the VCDS coding upon battery replacement, is really bullsh*t. My original battery was a 68Ah Varta, but I discovered the manufacturer code was JCB instead of VAO as it should be 😯. Additionally, the S/N was 1111111111 instead of the actual S/N figuring on the battery BEM code sticker 🙄. I nevertheless coded everything properly, at as it should be. Last point to fix is the inner ski hatch handle...

Hi, 3mins from J2 M6.

No definitely in the right position but for some reason it’s working again unless a switch was stuck or maybe because I was driving at the time it doesn’t work not sure? But main thing it’s working again cheers for the response

The Octavia is designed to receive OTA updates so theoretically, at some point, it should update to software version 1941, however who knows when that may occur? Also I believe the dealer needs to sort the SOS unit out which hopefully will just be a firmware update. The Master Tech did mention that the firmware update they had applied was more stable / reliable than a previous one Škoda had released.

Brembo is part of your problem. absolute rubbish when fitted aftermarket - brembo calipers and such are brilliant, but pads are outsourced and generally the cheapest rubbish with a nice name tag. personally I’d fit something like ATE or TRW. or for aftermarket upgraded pads Ferrodo or EBC also the rear brakes on the mqb platform do next to none of the braking so fitting the upgraded rears won’t give you too much benefit sorry

On our last Volvo the missus smash the front light module on a metal box attached to a wall. Fairly innocuous & just some broken plastic we thought at first... Dashboard was lit up like a Christmas tree with communication errors for various modules (door module, infotainment, indicators didn't work). 2800chf later (paid by her company insurance) & a 2 week wait for the part, it was fixed... 2500 was the piece price and around 300 for the Labour to fit it and program/learn the new light. (Eek)

I was an Assistant Resident Engineer on a big road scheme in Doncaster when those were introduced... None of the contractors guys knew how they were supposed to be installed so I had to find a copy of the standards and help them out. We also had to change some of the crossing layouts slightly too to meet the requirements. These days they are everywhere and instead of using precast slabs with raised bumps they often just tarmac and use a stick on rubber 'topper'.

My car is 2020 Build SEL First Edition Estate, which I purchased in October 2023 as a Škoda Approved Used Car. From day one had all of the Infotainment issues that are well documented and the SOS unit crashed on virtually every journey. i understand your concerns as I had them to some extent but literally car went into the dealership three weeks ago for less than a full day where they did the software update and SOS unit firmware update (no new unit required) and since I have had it back it has been 100% good - the difference is night and day. I’m not sure spending another £3000 on a newer car is necessary or even the solution. I would get it booked in and follow the advice I have posted. Print a list of the issues and what you expect the workshop to do to resolve them. I would insist they update the software but also highlight that they should update the SOS unit firmware, if required, as I believe that some dealerships miss this important stage out. i actually think we are the fortunate ones as the Infotainment issues remained unresolved for around two years much to the frustration of Octavia Mk4 owners. It is only software version 1941 that seems to be much more stable. As an aside, talking to other car manufacturers owners it seems many Infotainment systems have their quirks.

It was, I even had the Police tell it to me when my company Sierra XR4x4 was allegedly stolen.

OK to wrap this one up ! 2 Kids less than 5 ... Stressed mum ... Left keys in car unlocked dealing with little uns ! Happy ending car found intact later in day !

Looking at the picture, the headunit is trying to start CarPlay. If this were a FeC issue, I would expect a message saying contact a dealer. Bored of guessing now given this thread started two months ago! Find a friend(s) with an iphone and a working CarPlay enabled car... You can then try all combinations to narrow this down: - Your car, your phone, your cable - Your car, your phone, their cable - Your car, their phone, your cable - Your car, their phone, their cable - Their car, your phone, your cable - Their car, your phone, their cable - Their car, their phone, your cable - Their car, their phone, their cable That will tell you exactly where your problems is likely to be... Alternatively, maybe try a headunit firmware update but I'd be surprised. Not much more I can add.

So let me get this straight, travelling at 20mph it's going to take me longer to get somewhere than if I was doing 30mph? Glad I was sitting down for that revelation 🙄 On some Motorways I've found myself able to hit the dizzy echelons of 70mph at certain times. G

As far as i know MK2 Octavia had electro-hydraulic power steering. It means that it was hydraulic, but pressure was done using electric pump, instead of mechanical pump run by the engine. That gave more or less same feedback as regular hydraulic power steering, so no wonder it was better than electric one. However VAG electric power steering is actually rather good (considering it's limitations) compared to some others on the market. There's one more thing to check. I am not sure how it is done in cars without driving modes, but in normal mode XDS (electronic differential lock) seems to be off or on very low setting. Changing to sport turns it on, and it can be felt in handling. I'm not saying about feedback here or force needed to turn the wheel. I'm saying about actual handling. Press gas pedal in the corner and you will feel how nicealy it tightens the corner. So would be good to check what is XDS setting on cars without driving mode selection.

Croatia's in the EU - even adopted the Euro earlier this year.

The culprit has been found. Took out the LEDs and also put the originals back in. In both instances, the interior lights go off with the ignition and there's no tailgate latch warning. I've contacted the ebay seller to see what they say. Maybe the £8 was the initial warning... For anyone that's done this before, it's just a simple plug and play right? I don't have to worry about the two cables they come with if the plugs fit, right? Any recommendations of where to buy 'legit' ones or what to look for?

Your problem could be caused by the replacement LED bulbs and its quick and easy to swap back to prove or disprove. Otherwise having seen the Maxidot video its quite possible that the rear hatch lock microswitch has a dodgy contact causing the door open visual and the interior lights to flash. I upgraded to LED cargo lights on the last 2 cars, on this one it still wasn't enough and was hampered by the solid luggage cover so I used some self adhesive 6 LED strips, I cut them into 3's and fixed them with tiny screws and spliced into the feed wires.

Thanks and sorry for the confusion. It's a Fabia SE L TSI 90 PS Hatch. Manual gearbox. First reg Oct 2015. Timing belt changed at 30439 miles. Current mileage just over 31000. Just this morning had spark plugs changed. Too soon to tell if that's made a difference. What else could be causing this? Thanks again.

^^^ Location location location yet again. Plenty 20 mph limits are in place and have been for years and more coming. People should maybe choose their fights sometime. If slowing down is required and in appropriate locations then good. There are no blanked bans on speed and the likes of 20 mph max other than in built up areas where there might have been a 30 mph limit anyway.

Nice one DW - welcome to the forum and glad you're enjoying the Octy!

lights: yes, when the lights come on automatically it is dipped beam only. The first push on the stalk enables automatic high beam. But it will only go to high beam out of street lighting area and when going fast enough. The symbology is the high beam icon but it’s in grey when high beam is not actually on, blue when it is on. Once it is on out of town etc it stays on high beam but creates dark areas where it seems vehicles coming other way or in front. Goes back to low beam at junctions etc, then back to high beam automatically. Second push on the stalk is permanent high beam but I’m not sure why you would want to do that. The only time I have manually dipped so far, was for a pedestrian on a country road - I didn’t want to dazzle them. I guess the starting thing is because yours is diesel and doesn’t start immediately from cold. My petrol does start immediately so this is not an issue for me.

Another update! Ready for delivery next week! (18/12). So it will actually arrive slightly earlier than the original delivery date of 29th Dec 23. Looks like things are starting to improve.

Thank you have a nice day and a great Christmas also! I’ll update you on what I find. Thanks, Jack

Hi, My pleasure to respond as fast as possible as I know how it feels haviing your car not play ball 🙂 . Fingers crossed you figure it out soon and it will be an easy fix. Best Regards, Misujr

Excellent! Looking forward to the results and would be great to meet one day to take me for a drive 😎

If it was, it went right over my head 😀

I bought a set similar or the same as that out of curiosity. By inspection I concluded that they aren't for centralising so much as for 'putting back in same position as it was pre-removal' which isn't likely to be central. So no use if not acquired til after removal. I think once I'd realised their real purpose the workshop instructions made more sense.

Thanks. I'm in UK/Britain/England its Killmanau (OP) who's location is shown as Denmark. I thought, Skoda UK at least, at some point, had first brake fluid change at 3 years from new then every two years after that but as I put I could well be wrong/misremembered.

Nice one, many thanks Bigade!

It's a BTS engine with a timing chain. Garages are liars and morons.

If you have the proper Skoda approved towing electrics then yes it will cause the Bulb Failure System to show an error on the trailer almost as soon as you plug the trailer in. I speak from experience! (Also been lots of threads on the Bailey caravan groups about this with VAG cars)

Many thanks, BigAde!

And most Important due to the fact those shields does not prevent hot air to be sucked into the filter, espetially my Cloud 9 customs made for bigger batterry plastic cover 8n TT thus leaving open space on MK4 golf platform so we are developing new custom air box-closed with direct fit for air duct,and thermo insulated with 1cm adhesive sponge and reflective silver film on it according to the laser 3D scan, and most Important still with ProRam Large air filter with big velociry stack!!!!! This was somethimg to start with as a idea, but ours will be completely closed with air duct connection 76mm and MAF hole,nothing else. If turned ok Inwill offer them for sale to-just boxes, no filter or MAF or insulating sponge.

You won't find a legit copy for free. You can buy the official ones at https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do An hour's subscription is around €10 and is usually enough to grab everything.