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The only really reliable way to test the condition of the battery is - 1 - Give it a full charge with suitable charger, ideally, a 'smart' charger. 2 - After full charge achieved, remove surface charge by allowing battery to stand for around 12 hours - or by using a load such as headlights, etc, for a short period. If the test is done while battery is connected in vehicle, you need to ensure that all control modules have been allowed sufficient time to enter sleep mode. 3 - Test battery condition with specialist battery condition tester (not expensive) - or an 'old school' high-rate discharge tester.

I have owned a skoda superb mark 2 170crdti for three years and enjoyed the car immensely. Because it had a good service history and low mileage I decided to use RRG Skoda in Bolton to service my car and I took out a two year service plan, which worked well for me, the dealership were very helpful and I was so satisfied that in August this year I signed up for another two year deal. As a pensioner on a fixed income I started to pay monthly and booked an annual service for December. Disaster struck at the end of November whilst driving on the M60 in Manchester when two cars piled into the back of mine and the insurance wrote off my car. As you would expect I got less than the cost of a replacement for my low mileage FSH, almost perfect car. I decided to buy another superb this time getting the 140 powered version, higher mileage but 2 years younger, still a mark2 but a face lift. I contacted my Skoda dealership to tell them about the change in car, cancel the pre booked service and asked them to transfer my service plan to the new car, no dice!! VW financial services who administer the plan refused to transfer the plan and also refused me a refund of my payments to date, they did say I could transfer the plan to the scrapyard the Insurers had sent my car to. So a warning to anyone before they take out such a plan, if anyone steals your car and you don't get it back or you write off your vehicle VWFS will try and steal your payments. After a great deal of fruitless complaining to VWFS I wrote a review on Trustpilot, within a week VWFS contacted me and offered a refund as a goodwill gesture. Anyone in this situation should try this approach, a victory for the little person up against a very large business

WTF is it with Volkswagen Group and teasing and predicting the economy and the technology a year or 3 off. If they can build and sell them then best get on with it and sort the cars they have already sold with fundamental design, manufacturing and material / hardware / software faults. Getting them built in China is likely the only way they will sort out the stuff they can not.

The car maintains the battery at different levels depending on the driving state in the moment as well as other factors. You keep using very non specific terms like ‘voltage were normal for the system’ , how do you know what is and isn’t normal for the system and what the car wants? It could be perfectly within the cars tolerances. alternators have came a long way from being used to simply pump out as much current as possible and a good alternator will vary its output from 12v-15v in some cases all to support better emissions, more power, regenerative braking, better battery life, micro hybrid systems and more. if the start stop isn’t working there can be a variety of reasons and these need looking into using a diagnostic computer to see any faults or live data. im still none the wiser as to what’s actually wrong with your battery other than you think something is wrong based on what?

Using the (supposedly) failure of the SS as a guide to the health of the battery is a non starter. As @ApertureS says there are many reasons for it not to work, Mine can work after a few minutes driving, then a few miles later into the journey it may stop working. It usually works consistently after about an hour. I don't give myself even more grey hairs worrying about it. This is with an almost 11 yr old AGM battery and SS has always been activated.

Never heard of a central locking issue as serious as that. But speakin from a legal point of view, forget Skoda, it has nothing to do with them, your contract is with the garage you purchased the car from. ( the seller ). UK law is this: 1: within the first month from purchase you can reject a car under most circumstances where there's a fault. You're way, way above what could be considered a minor fault. It's good practise to give the seller an opportunity to fix that fault but if they are unable to do so then rejection should be a very simple straight forward affair. You've given them 10 attempts !!! OMG. 2: Within the first six months from purchase, it's a little more difficult in that it's up to the seller to prove the car wasn't faulty at time of purchase. If you bought the car in May and 1st reported the problem in July then this is where you fall. The time for rejection is taken from when the fault was 1st reported so 'the 8 weeks to go' is nothing to worry about. 3: from 6mth to a year you can still reject a car but the onus falls on the owner to prove there was a fault when the car was purchased. That doesn't apply to you. I'm not sure what you mean buy awaiting a case handler? Your rejection should be straight forward. Write a brief letter to the dealer principal stating that your exercising your legal right under UK law to reject the faulty vehicle you were sold as it's not fit for purpose and that you want a full refund. Some people talk about rejection as if it's an easy process - in many cases it's not, but if what you say is accurate, you have a stone wall case. You could approach citizens advice but they'll tell you much the same. Good luck. Edit - just thinking - you're perfectly entitled to a full refund but you could ask the dealer principal if he's able to swap a similar car. Personally I would have no faith whatsoever in the car they've sold you - I'd never want to see it again.

I believe the following is true and contradicts some of the comments above :- - The gas includes the addition of a lubricant, whose job helps preserve the seals. - The more frequently you use the AC the better as the lubricant gets pumped around and keep the seals protected. - AC is not just for summer cooling but for year round use, clearing the screen in winter. - Regular use also keeps at bay any moisture that can be trapped in the ducts that feed the car and filter, eventually the cause of foul smells. - The AC gas will leak out, some tests say 10% per year is to be expected. - Year on year you may not notice a loss in performance but it will definitely decline. - Don't bother with the main dealer, go to an air-con company or good independent garage. probably about £70. - A re-gas if done correctly purges the system. Everything is sucked out and the volumn checked. The extra required to bring it up to full volumn is then added along with the correct lubricant. - A re-gas every two to three years should keep the system in good order if you leave the switch set to on. Finally, you have a nice car with functions that make it an enjoyable place to be in. Why not look after them and enjoy it, Look on the bright side, the gas used in newer vehicles is costing about twice as much to keep on top of. Just my point of view - Colin

This is wrong on so many levels... 🤭

Does it say which tyre it is on the infotainment system? Start by checking ALL the tyre pressures when the tyres are cold, and then reset the TPMS system. Then check the pressures in a week or if/when the TPMS warning comes back on. Thanks. AG Falco

On your last point... I know from personal experience that the air conditioning is critical on some EVs and plug-in hybrids. In my car, the air conditioning compressor was known for failing (fitted cost £2500+), which meant that the batteries weren't cooled, so the car would shut the ev and charging side down, and in some cases immobilise the car. The issue was the type and degradation of the compressor oil, and is still not resolved after several years - several owners are on their 3rd compressor - mostly at their own cost. Even with proper flushing at dealers, it still happens. I had a £99 dealer aircon service just as an insurance policy to stop the dealer wriggling out of the official extended warranty (in case I hadn't had a 'recommended service')!

Looks like I caught a Geminid last night 🌟 https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geminids PXL_20231213_202709064.NIGHT.mp4

Err?? You are replying to a thread in the YETI section of the forum and the OP specifically states he has a Elegance, a YETI model. How much more specific do you want it?

Rear drum brakes are always one leading and one trailing shoe so reverse gear was not a necessity, for stuck front drum brakes it would definitely be.

Compressor runs all the time, the clue is in the word clutchless. PAG lubricant is not in suspension with R123a gas, a cylinder contains the refrigerant gas only. There is only one seal not "seals", the pump seal, the shaft turns all the time the engine is running and is swimming in PAG oil. But for having to use flexible hoses to allow for engine movement there would be no loss of refrigerant in a car AC system, there would be flared couplings and no O rings which also leach the refrigerant to a lesser degree. You wont find EV's needing regassing but that wont stop the manufacturers from convincing owners that they do, they have it down to a fine art.

You're getting in a car just to get back out again?? And I thought I led an exciting life! G

Depending on what the BMS thinks the battery state of charge is the voltage at idle or when driving can be anywhere between about 12V and 14.5V

Find someone local to you with VCDS or OBDeleven and ask them nicely to activate this for you 👍🏻 As for the original question. No, it’s not something I’d pay extra for.

At last….Thankyou Avi4tor you have grasped my point and so far the window hammer seems the best idea yet. I will research getting one. Going to be a whole lot cheaper than an extra key. I still think ŠKODA should have a think about release of accidentally locked in passengers. I’m Normally not a panicky person, but get me in a locked car and I am stressed to my limits with helplessness. Thankyou again that is such good advice. to Luxovirs, I don’t see the need for me to lock myself in the car with his key fob while Alan pops into a shop unless there are a load of thugs lurking around! Anyway this only happens if its pouring with rain and it’s pointless me getting wet too. Usually I get out too otherwise why am I in the car in the first place.

Do you have Auto Hold enabled? The car won’t start until you press the accelerator.

This sounds like you have tried to use the central button after your partner locked the car? If you could use the central button after locking the car, it would defeat the whole purpose of the SAFELOCK system. Get your partner to not lock the car from the outside while you lock the car from the central button.

I took the tripod this evening - such a clear sky ✨️ PXL_20231213_202709064.NIGHT.mp4 PXL_20231213_202143682.NIGHT.mp4

They would instigate a recurring "after you!" - "No No, after you!" cycle. 4 Audis would just collide reverse and ram each other again and again until there was only one left running like a Destruction Derby!

Small update on this, I really did an update of the infotainment the day I asked but decided to see how much better it is for some time. And I must admit it really worth to update to 1941! The overall response of touches is very fast and system loads much quicker than before. Also I didn't notice any reboot since the day I applied update. Thanks everyone on this forum for their input 🙌

Latest Updated Speedcams - December, 2023. It's been a long wait this time - a whole year! - but at last here's the latest update of my customised version of EUR Speedcams ( December, 2023). They consist of the full EUROPE speed cameras which I've split up into four consolidated poi categories i.e. Fixed Speedcams, Average Speedcams, Variable Speedcams and Redlight Speedcams. They come supplied with my own preferred personal choice of icons, shown below, to match each of the speedcam categories. Remember to Install them as I explained in the first post in this thread i.e. after extracting the zip file remember to open the newly extracted folder and place only the PersonalPOI folder and metainfo2.txt file onto your sd card ( Please Note: a usb stick will not work! ). Also, please remember to select/tick the relevant newly added poi categories and the poi audible warning alert in your infotainment map menu settings after performing the update or they will not display on your map or audibly alert you. Hope you all enjoy them! EUR Speedcams - December, 2023.zip

Well I thought I should introduce myself in this side of the forum. Had an Octavia for the last 3 years but just pulled the plug on a Karoq. Any must have accessories? I canoe and kayak. Normally have a boot liner but suspect I don't need it as it's got a reversible floor. Any advice on boot still protectors? I'll add pictures when I get it.

If you can get ba deal on it Nextbase GW622. It's a 4K dashcam that's excellent. It's been very useful in an insurance claim and nailing a OAP who nearly caused a collision by driving on the wrong side of the road and the wrong way through a junction and traffic islands. You can get a full front & rear setup for around £300.

Just ignore his use of the wrong word ''sensor''. It's just a resistor.

Scandinavia markets can have larger batteries but I'm not sure if this is typical for VAG. It is usual to have plug-in block heaters or fuel fired heaters in very cold countries also. However, I think you'll be surprised at the capability of the battery to start the engine at cold temperatures especially petrol with spark plugs. Many years ago I used to spend my winters in Finland testing diesel starting at cold temperatures & we didn't fit special batteries for the tests.

Hi. Yes you would need to inform your insurer for any change of wheels. If you have any issues with insurance at all then please feel free to drop me a line. Regards, Dan.

2025 ID2 . Not my idea of classy tbh https://x.com/SteveFowler/status/1735281418182300132?s=20

Check the radiator thermoswitch first (for pink residue surrounding it), then the back of the block where there's a strange heat exchanger on the BXWs, couple of recent threads about them leaking. e.g. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/518176-fabia-14-16v-bxw-removing-intake-manifold/ Water pump is cambelt driven but not heard of them leaking much on these engines at all.

Thanks @Kenny R! All sorted now, with your kind assistance

No need to apologise, they are indeed a rack and pinion but with a recirculating ball screw around the rack shaft for the power assistance, there will probably be a Youtube video showing it. I only found out by watching Ed China on Wheeler dealers working on one, I'm not sure he explained the operation but as soon as I saw it the penny dropped, since 2003 when I first saw electric power steering on our 24 hour Works Mini Coopers I had been pondering how they could work.

But how many lives have to be lost before that "cost of the road" calculation is more than offset by the" cost of lost lives" and "cost of lost time to the economy" calculation? Regular stretches of dual carriageway would have been a more suitable option than the NDLR as originally built, and not as expensive as a complete dual carriageway. Anyway, lives have been lost and other lives caused mental anguish because of the original decision, let's hope the current improvements are enough to significantly cut the toll of lost lives and serious injuries - but the jury is out on that.

Why? The overtaking opportunities are so few and far apart that people who either don't know the road intimately (usually Grockles) or are just impatient take risky overtaking manoeuvres which all too often end up in a fatal accident. If only the NDLR had been built to the same standard as the A38 Devon Expressway it would be a MUCH safer road for all, locals and Grockles. It remains to be seen if the "little bit here, little bit there" current improvement scheme will represent a real improvement in safety, I and many others who live(d) in the area have our doubts.

Not just Skoda, all VW group (Audi, VW, SEAT, Skoda, etc.) and many other manufacturers too (PSA and Toyota I've personally experienced).

"Auto Hold" doesn't only operate when the car is on an incline.

I was merely responding to a broad brush statement which is not 100% accurate! There was no mention of Yeti in your post.

Apologies DragonFire, it looks like all the other posters are missing the point. Virtually everyone who drives mainly alone develops the habit of locking the car when they walk away from it without a backward glance. The fact that someone might be still in the car never crosses their mind. As such they are NOT going to disable the deadlock - if they realised someone was in the car they wouldn't have locked it in the first place. Personally I have two window breaking hammers in the car. These are primarily for my safety if the electronics fail and decide to try and keep me in the car, though I admit it would be a bit extreme to break the window if it just got a bit warm. The best solution for Skoda would be to have seat and / or internal motion sensors rigged to disable the deadlock if there was someone in the car at the instance of it being locked, though pet owners and parents with toddlers might want a different solution.

If you can keep the video to under 50mb you should be able to to just insert in your post without any issues. Alternatively pics would also be useful. If you get stuck trying to upload any of them then feel free to message me on here for assistance 👍

Thanks, sounds feasible then but still a bit risky without the vac pump. I hope some more people jump in to confirm they managed it fine..

You can get cheap voltmeters that plug into the cigarette lighter socket, which should give you an indication of what the alternator is doing under various conditions.

COP28. https://www.unep.org/news-and-stories/statements/unep-executive-director-statement-closing-cop28 “COP28 has delivered, for the first time at climate talks, a clear call on countries to transition away from fossil fuels. The deal is not perfect, but one thing is clear: the world is no longer denying our harmful addiction to fossil fuels. Now we move beyond bargaining to action. As the Secretary-General has said, the phase-out of fossil fuels is inevitable. “This means real action on a rapid transition away from fossil fuels, especially for the G20, and real action on the many other positives agreed at COP28: the framework on the Global Goal on Adaptation, operationalizing the Loss and Damage Fund, and new commitments on sustainable cooling, methane reduction, tripling renewable energy targets and nature breakthroughs. “The reality, as outlined in UNEP’s Emissions Gap report released ahead of the COP, is that we are not on track to deliver a resilient, low-carbon and just world. This reality has not changed yet. Now the hard work of decarbonization must begin. “To have any hope of doing this in line with what the science demands of us, we must unleash far greater finance to support countries in a just, equitable and clean transition, which is especially important for developing nations that must leapfrog to low-carbon development. Financing and means of implementation are therefore critical, as every developing country must have the capacity to urgently end energy poverty, realise its sustainable development potential and deliver on the SDGs. “We have the solutions; we know what needs to be done. And action can no longer wait.”

Been running CrossClimates on my Karoq having previously had them fitted to a SubaruForester and Freelander. No issues although appreciate there’s probably less deep snow in SE London than up north

World Wide Web. I heard it on the news and the radio in the UK. Not approved in the UK. But that does not stop people having it and using it.

As high as you’d hope isnt a specification? Voltage on idle and doing short journies aren’t a correlation? Im still a bit confused what the technical reason is you think the battery is faulty

And here is first comp render,and tomorrow is production day. Can't wait to test fit it. It is without small hole for SAI,because I deleted it but can be done, depend on customer preference and direct connection to 76mm air duct-completelly closed system as OEM, with additional adhesive teromoinsularing 1cm thick sponge with silver reflective film-just suggested to my friend to make some temperature measurement before and after if possibble to prove this is the best solution

Could it just be a connector disturbed below a seat? The Fix might cost nothing but the diagnosis might cost you more than 30 minutes plus VAT at a dealership.

The rust can't be that bad if it's passed an MOT test, unless the tester wasn't very observant. The Felicia front mounting points tend not to rust badly, sometimes a little lower down behind the coolant expansion tank, and air filter box. It's the rears you should keep an eye on, these seem to rust out for fun on the pick up. Panels could be cut from a donation vehicle with corrosion free mounts.