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Fine chaps Happy New year and thanks for the help guys ! Special thanks to Colin and the Admins for putting up with t#### who write click bait titles 😆

In Elizabeth of Shrewsbury's kitchen....

Post update!!! 4 new tyres and the wobble has gone 🤘🏻. Could have been done without the expense so close to Xmas but hey, needs must. What I will say is the old tyres on the car looked in great condition, loads of tread left, no cracking etc. I also found it strange how the tyres would react differently on a day today basis which really threw me as to what was the issue. Anyway, I can now actually enjoy driving the car again. Thanks again for all the feedback folks, much appreciated.

TPI 2049459/14 (05-Oct-2021) covers the MIB2 update. Customer statement: Customer may complain about one of the following phenomena: • ABT display failures (black screen). • MIB switching off, restarting – with a connected mobile device with the IOS operating system. • MIB without sound, or sound cannot be controlled, voice control malfunction. • MIB sporadically switching off or gets frozen while calculating route or while navigating. • MIB does not allow the lower menu bar to be automatically hidden in the navigation mode. • MIB does not allow the activated additional information window to be closed. • Virtual Škoda Surround not working. • Radio is playing when customer comes to the locked vehicle. • Deactivating auxiliary heater pre-selections. • Changing time indicator. • The hands-free function is not available; displayed is the indication „Phone not available“ and Bluetooth does not work. Workshop findings: • The customer statement can be reproduced. Technical background Faulty SW MIB Standard (Amundsen, Bolero) in vehicles manufactured in the period from CW 22/2016 to CW 45/2020. Production change Modified MIB control unit Generation II with new SW version introduced since CW 45/2019 Measure • If the customer complains about one of the above symptoms, perform the update of SW MIB Standard (Amundsen, Bolero) to the new SW version. • Updating procedure of the MIB control unit using the application SD Creator – see Service Information No. 2034053. • To download the SW 369 (to be applied to vehicles manufactured in CW 22/2016 – 22/2017), enter Part No. 5FM.IB2.STD.369 in the application SD Creator • To download the SW 480 (to be applied to vehicles manufactured in CW 23/2017 - 45/2020) enter Part No. 5FM.IB2.STD.480 in the application SD Creator Important notes: If the following instructions are not observed, the updating process may be stopped and the navigation unit blocked. Warranty costs will not be accepted in such a case. • The respective flashing data can be used only for vehicles manufactured in the periods mentioned (SW 369 for CW 22/2016 - 22/2017, SW 480 for CW 23/2017 - 45/2020). You should contact a dealer for the update... If you'd like to update it yourself, add your system details to this following thread and hopefully someone will provide the update to 0369 for you:

Thanks I know it is a fairly straightforward task as I have done it before in my wife's car. The difficulty I have is that it is only 3 weeks after keyhole surgery on my knee so can't risk further injury kneeling down on the floor to install a kit on my Karoq. At some point I expect I'll do it but I have a working solution for the time being. 👍

Thank you. That´s also what I think. I will get a uv leak detection kit. Im hoping that uv light make it easyer to see even a small leak or stains if it´s leaking from the waterpump. That´s probably the best way to go.

Dry clutch no service required

What a nice considerate EV driver to leave the other charger for others to use, well done that man.

With the extra amount of technology in modern cars there is a LOT more to go wrong but I find my cars and motorcycles of the last 15 years much more reliable than cars of the past and bodywork being nearly indestructible to corrosion.

Hello everyone, I decided to create a topic about canton amplifier 3G035466. There is similar topic on Octavia forum but there is a 3Q0035466A amp. Speaking of speaker ratings for the Canton system in the Superb...... Some photos attached. So, there is 3x TDA7803A nad 2x FDA802. TDA7803A is a quad channel amplifier capable of deliver – 4 x 27 W 4 Ω @ 14.4 V, 1 kHz, THD = 10% – 4 x 47 W 2 Ω @ 14.4 V, 1 kHz, THD = 10% FDA802 is a dual channel class-D amplifier capable of deliver– 2 x 120 W /4 Ω @ 35 V, 1 kHz THD = 1% (2 x150 W /4 Ω @ 35 V, 1 kHz THD =10%) – 2 x 140 W /8 Ω @ 50 V, 1 kHz THD = 1% (2 x180 W /8 Ω @ 50 V, 1 kHz THD =10%) Link for datasheets: https://www.st.com/resource/en/datasheet/tda7803a.pdf https://www.st.com/resource/en/data_brief/fda802.pdf FDA802 is capable of driving 4 Ω speakers but on 35V. I cannot find any full datasheet so no characteristics is available. But judging by the main capacitors voltage (63V) probably it is powered from 50V so 4 Ω speakers might be an issue. I will test that soon. So info from a Skoda brochure should be quite precise. 610W is and RMS power.

Caster alignment I've been suffering a pull you the left (curb) for a few years now. Threw a lot of money at the issue to no avail. shocks/spring all round top bearings droplinks Track rod ends front suspension arms bottom ball joints Front bushes (revised ones) new tyres tracked at kwik fit 3 times. nothing worked. And they told me the only adjustment was toe. The issue was the caster; caster not positive enough on the left. This thread has been a lifesaver as I think I've now sorted it. I know that I needed to move the bottom console further forward on the left to make it more positive (I guess to match the other side, I don't have access to fiddle with a hunter alignment machine) I put the car front on stands, undone the four bolts as shown in the vid, (I just show one side in vid) (you will need a breaker bar for the top bolts) and then the subframe+consoles twist as one complete thing so the left is as forward as poss and right is back as poss. See video. my car finally has stopped pulling left. thank you all. Hunter printouts are both before. if I get one done soon. I will add that as an after result.

Thank you all for your help here. I have ordered pressure test tool and a uv leak detection kit. I will test it and check the EGR. I let you know how it goes Thanks again 😀

Some or many have the Oil changed because someone at a Dealership wrongly tells them they are due a change. Personally i might change both the oils after 8 years or 100,000 miles or so, but it should not be necessary.

I didn't saw them. I ll search in the forum thank you. 😊

You can not. Did you do a search using key words just for a 1.5 TSI ACT remap? Plenty threads on that. Maybe since the last posts someone on here had a 1.5 TSI ACT remapped.

Hi All Just purchased a 2020 Karoq with only 3900 miles on the clock. It’s a 1.0SE Tsi manual in what I believe is the petrol blue colour(dark blue)and although only the smallest engine I am delighted with it. It’s the quietest and smoothest car I have ever owned. It was a no brainer for me two minutes into my test drive. I decided that the tyre repair kit was not for me and purchased the boot kit from Caffryns and a space saver off eBay that was unused . I bought the nextbase hardwire kit and fitted my old nextbase dash cam quite easily having read how to drop the glovebox, having looked it up on google. The car is absolutely mint condition and was registered disabled at first registration. I have just registered on this forum and look forward to using it for advice etc. Dave

Sorry - just catching up on this. The label in the engine bay says VW 504 / 507 0W-30 so that's what I used. It had a full oil change at a service a couple of months later but I didn't check what they used. Hopefully the right stuff! The stuff I put in was just 1L as a top up as the level was low.

IIRC only on UK supplied cars are the 12V sockets permanently on. I seem to remember that non-UK cars do have a movable fuse to select always on or ignition only.

Thank you very much for your help, it is very much appreciated :)

Combined with the following it definitely is: But the fan could be the aircon, I am rarely aware of the AC fan running but usually aware of the high speed fan running during a regen, the giveaway of course is the fan running after engine shut down. I do agree with the high idle after a cold start with heavy electrical load. And just to confuse things all the more: The AC will not work below a certain temperature, 3 or 4° C I seem to recall.

Now SOLD.

Kia and many cars in Canada are 4 wheel drive to cope with winter driving. EVs are easier to make all wheel drive, cost wise. New Toyota Prius have a 4 wheel drive version, rear motor is tiny ie about 10 hp I recall, just to get the car moving or moving in snow, clever idea, Toyota not completely loss the plot it was good to hear.

Very true, cheap fossil fuel supply does not encourage users to think green at all. All the great oil producing countries love their gas guzzlers and that's one reason why the overall air quality is so bad. If these vehicles were to be replaced with say a maximum of 2.5 litre turbocharged engines we would all be better breathing cleaner air.

Oh quite cheap is fossil juice. Car I hired a few years ago was a 2.4 litre kia sportage. Poor on fuel consumption compared to turbo version just starting to be released but fuel was much cheaper than UK so people were still buying gas guzzlers as they were couple of thousand CAN$ cheaper. What went along with that was poor range of the rental ice, less than 400 miles I recall. Subsidies for buying evs in 🇨🇦 and cheaper running costs. I would prefer an ev in southern Canada but would stick with ice in more northern areas of Canada.

Sorted the blinker after a infotainment reset, thank you very much.

Why do people keep saying what an ICE vehicle can do? Is everyone on here not familiar with petrol, diesel or LPG vehicles and have ones or had ones and bee used to putting in fuel? No idea the difference of the cost of public charging in Canada compared to buying Gasoline or Diesel. That would be useful to know.

VW / Audi on a bottle of oil is not Oil Produced by VW / Audi, the oil comes from an oil producers. As far as VW not selling VW504 00 / 507 00 as in 5w 30 FS III and only 0w 30 FS III, not the case in the UK with VW Group / TPS, and the Oil is now from Fuchs Oils / Quantum range of oil.

18 stops for charging, I could do that trip with 7 fill ups, just saying. Then I could actually stop anywhere of my choosing along the route for breaks, rather than being dictated whereby the availability of chargers. 😉

Thank you very much 🙏

Nice, lots of us think of others. but it is necessary to understand he can only charge DC up to 50 kW on the CCS anyway and he was charging so little and quickly that he could have been on the 11 kW AC if he wanted to head off leaving the car. No point him being on a 100 kW charger. As to getting a shift on to get the battery hot. He could of gone flat out at 94 MPH and honestly it would have made no difference from going at 60 mph to how quick it charged in cold weather on the 50 kW charger. My last charges in the Cold. 10 kWh on a BP Pulse 27 minutes. To 100% 68-99%. 15 kWh on a BP Pulse , 17% - 67% only 20 mins. 17 kW to 100% 41 minutes. CPS. He was charging to 80% so quicker than i charge going to 99 or 100% I have 9% to 87% in 47 minutes for 24 kWh. That charger was slow and i arrived having been on the Motorway. PS. @ around 0*oC 45 miles and charging at home is costing me £3.88 so 90 miles £7.76 or there abouts. 21 pence a kWh tariff. 41 pence a kWh Local Public charging is too expensive & above that crazy & paying too much to be in an EV IMO. @ 35 pence a kWh i am paying about 10 pence a mile.

If the red one had been a DSG, I could've been very interested. I've been following him for a long time now, and enjoy his video's. I keep competing for cars too, but he keeps ignoring me - dunno what I've done! 🙄 G

I gather than charging is pretty good in Canada along Highway 1 and those roads close the St Lawrence and 90% of Canadian live within a hundred miles of the US border ie along a strip just north of the 49th parallel or in Southern Ontario where I partly grew up, I am named after the river ie Lawrence not lol-lol as sister could not say Lawrence hence lol-lol. All along the St Lawrence anf Great Lakes shores and then out West to Vancouver Island there is charging at it has become an EV challenge to do the cross Canada drive, about 4400 miles or 7500 kms in metric money. Takes about a week to drive, as below 18 charge stops for a big battery ID4, Teslas have done it too. Five times more than the John O'Groats to Lands End by my maths. Only did the Calgary to Vancouver few years ago and that was quite a journey but that was via Banff and Jasper and not straight. May favourite country so far but I have yet to do NZ which could run Canada for top spot I reckon.

41k km atm. Writing on engine cover is oil type they used in the factory. I've heard those 1.5 TSI engine sound kind of diesel-y due to their high pressure fuel injection. It has had 5 services over the years. Most recent one is 2 months ago with new oil and filter.

If you think the Cantom system is “OK”, you should heard the OEM systems in a well equipped car 25 years ago; trust me, there’s no comparison. It’s a car, so it’s not designed for the production of any form of HiFi. Your head is in the wrong place to get any form of stereo or realistic surround sound. DSP programmes (another pointless gimmick) sound weird for the same reason. It seems to me that the main preoccupation with customisation of sound systems in cars is to produce 100’s or even of ‘000’s of watts of noise and massive bass. To me it’s about the quality of the sound, not the volume.

I had the same story. I even had the USB sockets changed under the warranty, but nothing changed. I finally bought some expensive cable, which worked more or less, as did the Samsung original cable, unless you didn`t touch or move the USB plug. The connection must be very stiff. Finally I bought Android Auto wireless dongle, which works flawlessly.

At least this post has kept you happy. Social media, forums etc are obviously there for you to release your pent up frustrations on life. We have digressed from the original post. But least this thread has eased your frustrations.

PM Sent. J.

Being able to simply take off a Tuning Box means nothing. If you were in an Accident, your fault or not you are not removing it before maybe the car is recovered. Same if your engine expires on a motorway. You want to declare it to your insurers to have valid insurance and not just the 3rd parties being covered, so any Loss Adjusted might not find the tuning box if removed, but checks your declaration with the Insurer. If the engine had an issue and had a warranty it is invalidated with non factory approved hardware or software. That covers the remap then and a tuning box.

Funny enough I was quite sure to

Most likely the regen. As to the cold start and higher RPM and load on the battery and alternator putting charge into the battery. = the rise to about 1,000 rpm.

Only 3 posts and already saying people are being rude/unkind when people are only asking for a list of the faults to try and help you out, which you still have not posted. I don't think any posts are rude/unkind but just trying to help you out on the limited info you seem to want to share. If you really want help you have to give people as much info as possible to assist you.

It depends. 1941 is being distributed as OTA in batches. Only a few cars have received it OTA so far. The dealership can also update it manually if there's a problem listed in the documents further back in this thread. BS, unless you're in Australia where the eSIM doesn't work (from what I've heard). BS BS

One of the reverse lights have gone out - two years for NZ$10 I can't complain about, so bought the same pair again. They have reduced the diode count however I reckon they're brighter, we'll see how long they last though (not sure if they'll last as long).

I don’t see any rude responses at all? We’ve asked for the list of fault codes to guide you as you haven’t provided one we can only guess what may be wrong? You’ve replied to the thread a few times but still haven’t sent a list so we are none the wiser. And if two garages and the symptoms point towards a gearbox fault, then simply the fact that it’s expensive and you don’t want a bill of £3-4000 doesn’t mean they aren’t right. I wouldn’t say anyone is being obnoxious or rude, the first rule is you can’t help someone that doesn’t want to help themselves, and if you won’t post the exact fault codes you have, then we have absolutely 0 chance of being able to assist you.

Hello! Remapping or tuning an engine can offer increased performance, but it's important to approach it with caution. Here are a few considerations for your 1.5 TSI engine: Active Cylinders: Active Cylinder Technology (ACT), which deactivates cylinders under light load conditions to improve fuel efficiency, is generally designed to handle the stress of regular driving. The impact of tuning on active cylinders can vary. It's advisable to check with your car manufacturer or a reputable tuner to ensure that the tuning won't adversely affect the functionality of the active cylinder system. Engine Components: When considering a stage 1 tune, which is typically a mild increase in power, it's assumed that the stock components can handle the additional stress. However, it's always wise to check with your tuner about the specific changes and how they might affect engine components. They may recommend additional upgrades or precautions. Materials Quality: Car manufacturers use materials that meet specific standards for durability. While active cylinders may have some differences, the materials are generally designed to withstand the normal operating conditions of the engine. It's unlikely that the materials in active cylinders are weaker, but specifics can vary between manufacturers and models. Future Problems: The wear and tear on engine components, including active cylinders, depend on various factors, such as driving habits, maintenance, and tuning. Tuning can theoretically reduce wear by optimizing the engine's performance, but it's crucial to follow the recommended maintenance schedule and monitor the engine for any signs of issues. Professional Advice: Consult with a professional tuner who has experience with your specific engine and model. They can provide insights into potential risks and guide you on the best course of action. In summary, while stage 1 tuning is generally considered safe for many engines, it's essential to gather specific information about your model and consult with experts to ensure that any modifications won't negatively impact the active cylinder system or other components. Always prioritize safety and reliability when considering engine tuning.

@Gahl you have a message

Merry X-mas. The IV 60 energy blue is home for christmas. Some snow, cold and icy conditions. No problem!

@Car672 Good. To EDIT, Go to the 3 ... (dots) on the top of the first post and see if you can put Sold. I will flag for a mod anyway.

Hello guys, I finally fixed the error, namely the AdBlue tank changed with control unit and error was gone, I had bought all this on eBay for a total of 230 euros. The heater is located in the tank, which is unfortunately permanently installed, if the breakdown you have to change the whole AdBlue tank, I also posted the pictures for better explanation