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I take it you mean 'doesn't affect electric drivetrains'? Otherwise the lunar rovers would have been completely pointless.

First car, ICE or EV, to do this North Pole, magnetic north, toa actual south pole.... Change to the 39 inch, tyre radius not rim, no Ev power train mods.......

9 months old .Ex Skoda Ireland rep. Many many extras 😛

Sounds like you need a new thermostat!

I've spent the last few months adding some sound deadening to my Mk3. I'll share what I've found in the hope that it's useful... My conclusion is that while the engine is almost silent on mine, sadly the chassis and lack of sound treatment makes the Octavia a noisy car on the motorway, on anything but the smoothest of surfaces. However, it is possible to reduce the booming so that it is below the pain threshold(!) Main thing I did was buy a 3.4 sq m pack of Noico 2mm butyl mat (black). It cost about £50. I did this work in Nov-Dec in Scotland. I used a heat gun (hairdryer would do) to heat the metal to 30-40 degrees for good adhesion. First I stuck it all around the spare wheel well. - This made the rear sound a bit more 'solid' when driving over bumps. Then I lifted the rear seats and added noico to the bare metal under the rear seat. - Maybe added a tiny bit more "solidity". Car was still quite noisy. I then treated myself to 4 new tyres, and got the front wheels aligned (tip - if you are non-VRS model and have standard suspension, you only need front alignment - cost about £60). The wheel alignment was quite a bit out, this reduced the roar from the front, but there was still a lot of road noise. I can't say I've noticed a huge difference from the new tyres. They are Goodyear EfficientGrip Performance 2. They are fine but I don't think the bulk of the noise was from the tyres. Now the main noise was a painful low frequency 'pressure', especially on bad motorway surfaces. Next I treated the B-Pillars (as in this post). I ordered some small pieces of acoustic foam to stuff into the bottom sill, and inside the B-pillar itself, taking care not to interfere with airbags and seatbelts. I covered the large 'hole' in the b-pillar metal with Noico, and covered the rear of the bottom plastic trim with Noico. - This helped reduce the 'pressure' feeling in my inner ears. Lastly, and perhaps most importantly, it was now obvious that there was a lot of noise coming from the front footwells. I lifted the easily accessible parts of the carpet in the front footwells and added Noico under there. What is under there is basically very thin, very resonant bare metal. This is where Skoda have added their biggest pieces of ineffective sound deadening mats, which shows they realise this is a noisy area. I added a layer of Noico to the footwells. This helped to the same extent as lining the spare wheel well did. Now when I go over a bump, the front sounds more solid. However it is still noisier than in a lot of cars. I might still add a second layer of Noico, and maybe some MLV (Mass Loaded Vinyl) over this to further absorb the noise in the footwells. As I was in a rush, I found some 1cm thick rubber mats in Screwfix (designed to go under a washing machine). I put 2 layers of this under the carpet in the front, which helped a fair bit. I'll happily go into more detail if anyone has questions (If there's interest I could even make a project thread with photos?). Oh, I also adjusted the rubber 'spring' type stoppers on the bottom of the boot lid (there was a gap of about 5mm, I unscrewed them so that they just grip a piece of paper when boot is closed (there's a video somewhere in this thread). And I also bought a Z-shaped rubber seal strip for £5 on ebay and attached it to the front edge of front doors - this helped reduce wind noise. PS if it's any small consolation, while the mk3 does seem to be particularly bad for noise, check out the Range Rover and Lexus forums haha they have the same issues - it's maybe all relative...

Excellent,thank you. I only noticed it recently and it was bugging me.

Again you are giving a partial jaundiced view of what actually happened. The crew had lightweight portable solar panels and wind generators and yes ICE powered generator and I would have taken one or two of those as well as a secondary or tertiary backup when public charging and renewable charging was not enough and as an extra safety feature, nobody wants a Captain Oates scenario. A great technical feat IMO.

If the factory immobilser is activated the engine will start and cut as it did on the two cars I programmed in two new ECU's for yesterday. Not had a faulty ECU in a year then two in one day!

^^^ Now i see. "Average charging speed" for the big battery given as 75kW. But smaller battery car showing as 75 kW max charging. That is how buyers or potential buyers get confused. & Motoring Journalists with a Media Pack and a top of the range test car. This battery capacity and then Usable Battery, and the terms, Fast or Rapid, Ultra Rapid adds more to any confusion. Then stories that in the USA the standard charging is to be something other than CCS.

Agreed, but a viable solution for the larger number of people that live in towns and don't have a driveway (or a garage/space with power) is still needed as well. As always the solution gets much harder after the "low hanging fruit" has been picked.

Hey, I recently took the wheel off on mine and it's super easy. Should be able to get it done in under an hour. This video was very helpful, and pretty much identical to my mkII Superb. Thanks, Grant.

I would prefer it if everyone who thought they needed any of the 'assists' would just throw their car keys away and take the bus.

Before you go wading in what you think is not too deep water remember as you do it some idiot might come through in the opposite direction and that is then the issue. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/508199-wading-depth

Miriam & Cooper @ Bo'ness

Yes all three are on the same fuse. See below diagrams. Take them with a grain of salt, these diagrams are from 2017 and VAG likes to change things all the time, especially which fuse does what. Screenshot 1: Fuse 40 definition states sockets U1, U5, U9. and U18. Screenshot 2: You can see the fuse "SC40" connects at "B150" to three points on another diagram, points 436, 443 and 447. The numbers in the boxes refer to the numbers at the bottom of the page; you find the page with the numbers and that's where the lines reappear. Screenshot 3: The three red/green lines reappear, going to U1, U5 and U18. U18 is the one in the luggage compartment. Screenshot 3 also doesn't explain that: U and U1 are the same thing, but it depends on the smokers pack. If smokers pack installed, then you get a lighter socket with the heated element. Otherwise it's just a power socket. U5 and U9, same as U and U1 above. U18 - no option to light a ciggy, just a power socket. If you have the U13 230V socket in the middle row seats, then that's a different fuse and the other pages of the diagram imply that both the 12V and 230V outlet there are on fuse 46 but the front and luggage ones remain on fuse 40. Here is the fuse box. See fuse 40 (highlighted yellow) has room to move down (red marking) which is different to all the other fuses around it. To repeat, not all cars had the metal contacts fitted in the lower position. Mine did not. You can check yours with a flashlight.

2 things, from a legal point of view - if you’re driving a car knowing it isn’t roadworthy (that includes emissions) you are committing an offence that can invalidate your insurance and get your car taken. That’s my take on it at least but it is a grey area. second is black smoke which is hydrocarbons leaving the exhaust through 2 things - not enough air or too much fuel. has a leak test been done on injectors? have the injectors been tested? fuel quality checked? fuel pressure both low and high? has the intake system been checked for leaks? boost pressure actual vs requested? turbo actuator moving freely? vacuum leaks on the turbo actuator and other solenoids? any fault codes?

A few photos from a recent holiday in Cornwall.

Make & Model: Mk.1 Skoda Fabia vRS Colour: Silver Mileage: 133k Price: £1,750 Description: 2005 '55' Skoda Fabia vRS 1.9 TDI in silver. 133k miles, freshly MoT'd on 11/12/2023 with expiry on 16/12/2024. KP55 OZK for the MoT history. PD130 engine, six speed manual, 16" alloys, remote central locking with both keys, very original condition right down to OEM radio. Ice cold AC regasssed July 23. Not been messed around with, not mapped. Kumho tyres all round (fronts replaced Dec 23, rears with decent tread). Been in the same family since new for 17 years until the owner before me bought it in Oct 22, I then bought it from him in Mar 23. Stacks of receipts, folder and books all present, I'm only selling because I've bought a something I've been after for a while and need the space. Condition: In good overall used condition however: - I polished the headlights for the MOT - they came up ok but not great - I did seal them but they'll need doing again at some point. - Wear to driver's seat bolster. - The EML is on, fault codes for the injectors according to the previous owner. The car drives well, doesn't smoke, is good on fuel so the consensus is that the injectors are just slightly out of kilter, enough to throw the light but not enough to affect driving it. My local garage cleared the codes and the light went out but was back on within 5 miles. Because of its age the EML being lit is not an issue for the MOT. - Both sills have surface rust scabs but are still solid - it's away from proscribed areas and didn't concern the MOT tester. - Stone chips on the bonnet. - Wheels getting a bit flaky between the spokes and could do with a refurb. - Rear wiper wipes but doesn't wash. - MOT advisory "Monitor and Repair if necessary: Central Exhaust Mounting Defective" - not seen this myself but the tester said it was not of immediate concern. Service History/Receipts/Recent Service work: In my ownership it's had the following: April '23 - reconditioned window control module from @Breezy_Pete of this parish - new front calipers, discs and pads Dec '23 - full service + timing belt, water pump and thermostat - new front tyres It's been totally dependable in my ownership and given the recent work done I see no reason why it shouldn't continue to be so. The aesthetics let it down a bit but it wouldn't take much to rectify that. I'd happily drive it anywhere. Extras: --- Mods: Compeletely stock, never been modded or mapped, original down to the OE stereo Shipping: --- Collection: Collection from LL57 near Bangor, North Wales

Hey up, I’m still procrastinating about changing my xenon bulbs. There’s a picture/video showing how to do it and I noticed that on his car he has foam which I guess is sound deadening. On the same video someone said their Sportline didn’t have it, but is it on SE-L as standard? The video for reference

I kept this one from 2008 as I found it interesting, it seems to largely match what the Superb does. Despite the file name it is in English. Adaptivni_svetlomety_AFS_ENG_07_2008.pdf

I knew that really, but just wanted to drop a vote of confidence for the ICE, gently, into the mix.

My wipers park at a different position each time. Sometimes high, sometimes low. Don't go messing with the spline. This is from the user manual:- "Each time the ignition switches off for the third time, the position of the windscreen wipers changes. This counteracts an early fatigue of the wiper blades."

In your first post you said that spark plugs on 1 and 4 are black and dry. Having black, dry soot on them is one thing, being wet and oily is another thing. So you have to decide which is which and give us consistent information. A bad valve stem seal will not boost the compression value. On the contrary. Compression values: opposed to what you said initially, they are rather low, with one cylinder (no. 4) having more than 10% difference from the other ones. What you believe to sound like "working in 3 good cylinders" at cold start, it is in fact working in 3 low compression cylinders and the 4th slightly better. The galloping sound comes from one cylinder having better compression. Of course it is hard to diagnose correctly an engine remotely, based on incorrect or insufficient information. But based on what you shared in your last post, the engine has mechanical issues.

Further research suggests this is a factory made hole for the fold out type towbar supplied by skoda and made by Westfalia. This hole will be bigger than the one needed for a detachable swan-neck, so I will likely just have the fitter make a new hole with the supplied cutting template.

There is a Fleet News article i read today that there are Business / Fleets getting BEV SUV,s instead of Light Commercial Vans. Makes sense if they can do the job, safety features, comfort, range, availability. Also there are companies catering for this or gearing up to do more racking, fitting them out. Re the Pole to Pole. There is a thread and posts with vids on it included vids on their previous trips.

The vehicle has a current MOT certificate which will expire in February, until then he is perfectly entitled to drive it. Let me give you two scenarios and you can ask yourself would you stop driving. Your vehicle brings up a MIL light and you have the fault codes read by a mechanic, they show that the oxygen sensor is showing an over-rich non Lambda compensated mixture, do you abandon the car there? You put your car up for sale with 6 months MOT remaining, I offer to buy it if you put it through another test and get a new certificate, it fails on emissions you choose not to have the problem repaired (too expensive) I decide not to buy the car, do you stop driving it?

We do have the price of the 17k at the end of the advert currently @Gaz maybe needs a larger font. Hoping to help your sale @redphil

Octopus lecky charges seem to have stayed the same in to 2024. I had an Octopus Go 2022 tariff of 9p per kWh for 0030 to 0430 and then 29.91 p per kWh the rest of the time which I am happy with. Gas went up 7% or so to 7.35 per kWh so that will add up to a bit more but still very happy with Octopus and probably get a mile in the Zoe for 2.4p per mile as only getting around 3.8 miles per kWh rather than well over 4 miles, nearly 5 miles per kWh in summer. Last year of zero road tax, I presume they will want road tax upon renewal which for me is each September so Sept 2025. Cheap running costs, taxing and servicing, happy days. Should replace the horrible lead acid battery at the 3 year mark, would like to go lithium as I did with my motorcycle. Need some new tyres as OEs have done 16k now, only fronts need changing. Two referrals to Octopus done so £100 better off with that plus £10 Octoverse credit given by Octopus and earning of low energy usage during peak times kick back and Octopus Free spins have added about another £10 to my account. £300 in credit past mid winter so happy days. £125 per month DD.

Hi Breezy_Pete, Having now had a chance to check my son's car, I can confirm that the top of the plastic column on the backing mechanism had sheared off, so the sole replacement of the handle itself would never have cured the issue. In essence the new handle would have had nothing to grip onto. The 'E Clip' within the handle itself was also missing. There are a number of sellers on E Bay purporting to sell this part, mostly sourced out of China but when you read the small print most if not all are for Left Hand Vehicles (Presumably the bonnet release is different on non UK cars). I also contacted local scrap dealers but this is a common failing so these parts are gone within a few days of the car arriving. In the end I made contact with my local Skoda dealership and sourced the correct parts through them, although not cheap at least if offers some peace of mind that we have the right parts to fix the problem. The assistance of the part number that you kindly provided was most useful in this process. Many thanks once again.

Great tips, thanks. I doubt I will get much money for it, except for spares. There are several things wrong. : Egr valve broken again, rust on boot and body, and now this. Most valuable are probably the alloys with winter tyres and half a fuel tank 🤣....and the cd player 🤣 Maud is a little too far from Aberdeen, even if car is fixed in Dundee. But I appreciate the reference. Garage seems decent: Maitland auto centre garage. Are you familiar with it?

@wyx087It is them that referred to a Rapid charger, so your 200 miles added with an Ultra Rapid really is a diversion. Tesla Super Charger or 75/80 kw. 100, 100 + 350 kW chargers are not Rapid Chargers. This is what those looking at BEV,s need explained to them and 50 or 100 kW max charging DC cars or maybe the likes of the new MINI and 80 kW if that is what it is, because journalists seem not to know. EDIT. I see now a figure of 95 kW charging for the big battery new car, the 41 kW one might be the same.

Mannol 15/40, over the 25 years many of the leading makers of oil with no problems I just drive it and in that time have only called the AA out 3 times once a lead came of the starter motor I could see the lead but could not see the were it went it took the AA man a few seconds ands I was off again. Still love my Felly after all this time (from new) I have to smile at the costs of new cars and EVs like they say they dont make em like they used to. I must just say I have a bad hearing problem so my Felly always sounds so quiet one of the benifits of being deaf and not hearing the wife. 😀 But then I am a very old man what do I know.

Interesting that the DfT spokesperson seems to think that charging points at motorway service areas is the key. In the last year I have driven 18,000 miles and only been on one short stretch of motorway, the M5 between the A30 junction and the southern end. So a motorway charging point would have been little or no use to me, and I suspect many other drivers - for example there are no motorways in Dorset, and as @Rooted points out there are no motorways north of Perth.

It won’t be out a “few” splines I can assure you. Remove the arm and reposition it one spline and that’ll cure the issue.

My Mrs and all her family are all Saab fans. They don't have them now but fond memories of 90s, 900s and 9-3s

Welcome I ditched the aero trims on my Karoq SportLine as they looked awful and will damage the lacquer over time, the part number for the centre caps and wheel bolt covers can be found in this thread…👍

Thanks for your response. That's an interesting interpretation, I didn't think of it that way. It *has* turned over slowly once or twice. I'll get the battery checked.

Hello, are you sure of the wording of your first report message (a) Is the message actually 'Engine must be running' - which means that some function requires the engine to remain running. Message (b) - 'Power consumption is high' usually means that battery voltage is too low to allow idle stop to operate. Both messages together can be caused by a failing battery - have you had the battery tested?

I had to rejoin in order to contact Colin in order to ask, and then decided that my "new" user name is the one I use on more or less every other forum I'm on anyway...

I did NOT spec Lane assist when I ordered my MK7 Golf in 2014yr....(it was a factory option extra) as I knew then what a piece of #**# it would be due to its limitations... In late 2022yr I got a MK8 Golf as a courtesy car....with all the stupid "no buttons" full haptic panel/steering wheel etc., etc.....Doing driving with multiple stops in & out of different stores in & around the Inverness area (just doing normal shopping)..I got tired of having to turn OFF all the stupid stuff every time I got back into the car & started it up!.... Lane assist, on the main "A" (haha) A939 Grantown road was a #***ing joke with Lane assist...it had to be OFF...as it was like having a wrestling session with the wheel at every corner!.. I tested Lane Assist "vision" on the roads near me as there are various new & faded sections....on new black tarmac, with new white lines, there is high contrast & I couldn't get within 3ft of the white lines before it went off!!Conversely sun bleached/faded old tarmac & old lines...low contrast & I could drive ontop of the lines before it went off!!... Obviously it'll be totally useless up here with our snow etc..which is why they have to rely on highly accurate GPS & other systems for the "automated driving" on these newer cars.. Encouraging the "driver" to toss their brain out the window just means that when the car can't cope & flashes up "please take over" on the dash, the human behind the wheel will no longer have any idea what to do!...

I had a computer failure, and was only able to reinstate access using a new e-mail and user-tag.

Hi , I have done 32 k in 2 years. Normally charge to 80% and try to keep it above 15%. Occasionaly, I charge to 100 before a long run about once a month and mostly all at 7 kw though it has had about 15 to 20 fast charges on Ionity when I have travelled to Scotland and the occasional London and back in a day. Usually get around 280 in Summer on the Motorway and that decays to 250/260 in winter. No noticeable loss of range so far. One thing I would add is on winter, I fully condition/preheat on mains before departure.

My dealership almost knew I was going to mention the dodgy infotainment system and software update before I did. They did the upgrade (under warranty) while it was in for a service. I'd suggest either pushing them or finding a better dealer. With so much software built into cars now, saying things like 'our wifi is secure' is bordering on incompetence.

Ok, back from ski vacation this evening => update done without any issue. Still, I put a battery charger on, just to be on the safe side. Took a while, there were a bunch of languages to update too. I've finally been able to register as primary user and to Skoda connect, to see that the services were past due since 13/01/2022 🤣 Sure now I'm gonna pay for something that should have worked since day one... (nice try Skoda 🙄) Car seems to be applying an OTA update. Should I see something different than 1941 once it's finished? or maybe just some minor update without versioning? Thanks a lot for all the help. I hope I'll finally enjoy the no more crappy infotainment...

Fine chaps Happy New year and thanks for the help guys ! Special thanks to Colin and the Admins for putting up with t#### who write click bait titles 😆

Very satisfied customer here, remap through one of their agents and an emissions rollback done at their premises. My advice to you is general, when someone tells you something like that aside from politely explaining that nobody tells me/you what to do is to ask them to be specific, give reasons that they can back up. Nobody aside from a fortune teller can tell you if there will be any issues down the line.

Guess we’re all different; I use ACC a lot.

In the UK its the SportLine and vRS that get the all-black grill. All other models get the chrome surround instead, with the L&K also getting chrome slats too. I'm guessing the Romanian trim levels are likely to be different...

I got this working myself today. it's not coding, it's not adaptation, it's paramaters, for which you need vcp with the correct zdc file , or odis-e with the correct xml paramater set. I have odis-e, and got my hands on the correct paramaters. You need a vas5054a and a copy of odis-e installed to use these paramaters they are marked for software version 261 hardware H13, my module (late 2016) was 'J' revision and had this software and hardware you can see your hardware and software versions near the top of a vcds scan of module 6d VCP try and catch these paramater sets during communication between VAG group and copies of ODIS-E, they try and grab them and save them, then encrypt them in their zdc format to stop them being freely shared around, but if you have the xml paramaters (i.e. native ODIS-E) , you can share them, if you have VCP and want the right .zdc for this, you can probably use a converter to convert these to .zdc Again, I used ODIS-E ( via my aliexpress sources vas5054a adapter) and this worked a charm superb close boot from inside.7z