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Latest Updated Speedcams - January, 2024. Here's the latest update of my customised version of EUR Speedcams ( January, 2024 ). They consist of the full EUROPE speed cameras which I've split up into four consolidated poi categories i.e. Fixed Speedcams, Average Speedcams, Variable Speedcams and Redlight Speedcams. They come supplied with my own preferred personal choice of icons, shown below, to match each of the speedcam categories. Remember to Install them as I explained in the first post in this thread i.e. after extracting the zip file remember to open the newly extracted folder and place only the PersonalPOI folder and metainfo2.txt file onto your sd card ( Please Note: a usb stick will not work! ). Also, please remember to select/tick the relevant newly added poi categories and the poi audible warning alert in your infotainment map menu settings after performing the update or they will not display on your map or audibly alert you. Hope you all enjoy them! EUR Speedcams - January, 2024.zip

A few photos from Attenborough Nature Reserve yesterday afternoon (just before Storm Isha hit). Still a few signs of the recent flooding, although the Geese were making it look easy in the high winds!! The glorious old Landie doesn't appear to have turned a wheel in many a year

Hi everyone, sorry for the silence, back to work and so busy, I ended up doing the timing belt but far too late really. 168000 miles....eeek! So glad I did... When I removed the tensioner it wasn't tensioned. It had slipped to almost nothing. The pointer was at the top of the upper block. Not between the two where it should be! I don't know how long it had been like that or how long it would have gone on for but I'm glad I did it! Water pump ended up being the wrong one so the old one has gone back on. That being said. It's a really well made pump and the bearing still feels tight and good 😊 The worst part was getting to it all. All the pipes and clips and the really hard part was the two M10 spline bolts holding a pipe bracket to the back of the engine mount. The heads are facing towards the bulkhead! I used the laser tool set (6809) for the timing. All great except the Allen key for the tensioner. It started to burr so I stopped using it and went for my Allen key socket set. Much better. Any questions about the job I'll be happy to answer, 😁 Thanks for everyone's help 😁😁

Mine's coming up to 11 years old, generally been very reliable wit hno major bills and I'm planning to hold on to it as long as possible. We've had members of this forum decide it was time to replace their Yeti and a few months later return to the fold, by then having no choice but to buy secondhand, which suggests that the Yeti is a pretty decent vehicle (as we all know). Your post suggests yours has been reliable and generally trouble free for its age. If you traded it in you would be looking at a car at least six or seven years old so a minimal warranty even if you bought off a forecourt. You might be lucky and get a good one but there's still a risk the previous owner parted with it for a good reason. There's always a cost to changing a vehicle and if yours is continuing to give good service I'd be thinking hold onto it and that's money could go to any future repairs.

A lot of parts turned up for the areaview. The wings mirrors were hard to source without brand new ones at £1200 for both! So the best i could find was lhd ones (one without dimming). First i stripped and cleaned the mirros (including the stupid paint pen on the face of one) then I ran 2 new wires for the dimming on the non dimming one (awaiting plug). Next I have to extend the blind spot connectors, on the FL the blind spot LED is in the elbow of the mirror on the cover, and not wanting to buy 2 new mirror glasses at £300 each, I will extend the blind spot wires to the mirror glass. The centre console button cluster arrived, the difference between this and the one with no camera symbol - absolutely nothing except the little picture - you could use the old one just fine. The part number for this one is 3V2 927 132 R IHA (with electric tailgate and self park) The camera for the front has arrived and I can now get dimensions for this and start making a 3d printed bracket - 5Q0980546A is the part number. The rear camera is 8W8827566C and the version I have bought seems to be a dodgy version as the lens sticks out the camera body way too far, not an issue but the lens washer wont do anything. For now, this will do, if it all works, ill replace the camera with another one. The door wiring is a big issue, there are 4 methods to doing this: 1 - pin the 5 HSD wires to normal terminals and run them through the door plugs like normal wires. 2 - purchase new door connectors and the complete interior and door looms as skoda dont sell the data cables on their own 3 - purchase new door connectors and get the data cables new from a passat as VW sell the data cables on their own. 4 - purchase used loom sections from a breakers car and use these - i found a passat with the wiring complete. Why did I go for number 4 and not make the cables myself? Well the rosenberger HSD connectors that go in the plugs arent standard Fakra connectors and cant be purchased in quantities less than 10,000.... Part number time: Left mirror RHD - 3V2857507F Right mirror RHD - 3V2857508F Door connector - 3Q0972702 Body connector - 3Q0972701 HSD cables - Estate only! Mirror to door connector - 3G0971158C Left door to module - 3G0971158AE Right door to module - 3G0971158AC For the rear camera I will be making my own HSD cable as the standard one comes in 3 pieces at £80 each! Ill do in 2 pieces with a join just after the tailgate The front camera cable I will be making my own again, it comes in 3 pieces and at £80 each, no thanks. Ill need one waterproof connector at the camera and then a join just inside the car, then to the module. Cables and connectors will be arriving tomorrow for me to make the HSD cables. The mirror covers are also different for areaview as the entire mirror is chunkier. Stay tuned to find out what is different on LHD and RHD mirrors - I really hope these dont bite me in the ass, As I cant return them.

A quick update on the ownership experience with our new 1.5 DSG Sportline. Put it down to a combination of new car syndrome/lack of familiarity/use mostly in town, but I hadn’t realised immediately that the steering wheel was slightly on the wonk. Took it into a tyre outlet and they were able to show that the road wheel alignment was perfect but the steering box was slightly off, leaving the steering wheel wonky. Sorted for £20 (and I chucked ‘em a tenner for their tea-fund). Can’t remove certain features from the digital display such as oil temp, that I really can live without. Can’t reset the trip meter without having to access the settings menu (eventually worked out how to do that from the steering wheel controls but what a faff!) LED headlights are amazing but, they seem to have a bias for illuminating the offside verge more than the nearside and despite the settings giving an option to switch between left/right-side road use, seems to make no difference. There is a subtle but distinct line on the road that projects further away to the right and it’s also visible when on main beam. I’m currently using Sport mode whilst running in: it up-shifts just over 3,000rpm and keeps the revs above 2,000 so the theory is that the piston rings will be working more efficiently against the cylinder bore and that should help to smooth any machining imperfections and create a better seal. Still getting above 35mpg with a mix of town and dual carriageway so that should only improve once I’ve done ****ing about. I have noticed that in Sport, matching engine and road speed when down-shifting during decelerating below 15mph is accompanied by a pronounced lurch. Currently on 18 inch rims with extra-load rated all-season tyres and the ride quality is good. Slightly firm bias but pliant and comfortable. It’s definitely not ‘sporty’ and I can only wonder why the standard rims are 19’s. Overall, it’s quiet, refined and a pleasure to drive.

2 years of running a VRS IV Estate, and I have recorded all my mileage, all my petrol and charging (a bit geeky I know), but based on all charging, petrol and mileage over 22k miles the car has averaged 61.2mpg. Thats on my records not what the car thinks. I have only ever filled up with Super Unleaded and I do charge from home on the British Gas EV Tarrif now so 0.09p per KwH between 12.00 - 05.30, so it cost around £1.00 to fully charge. I get between 18 - 28 miles on EV mode, depending on the outside temperature. When possible I pre-heat for cold mornings while its plugged in to maximise the battery (as long as the poxy app is working of course !!) I do a mixture of local driving at the weekends which is mostly in EV mode, but my office is 100 miles door to door, so EV mode doesnt last the distance obviously. Theres been some long trips up country and back as well. Compared to the Superb 2.0 TSI Sportline I had before, its averaging around 10mpg more over a years worth of driving. The Superb averaged 51mpg over a year. I dont drive like I am trying to save the world (sorry Eco minded people) but I also dont hack around like a looney everywhere. I have tried the Octavia in Eco Mode, and yes the mog over 200 miles was a little higher, but not enough for me to not want to enjoy the cars performance. I have tried it with the regen turned up, turned off, ive driven in Sport mode, set up individual modes etc. I find it just works best if left in Normal Mode with Regen set to Auto, and thats where the 61.2mpg comes from.

Funnily enough I had another one from them last week. Got in from checking the car at about 5.15pm, thought "I'm bound to be past their cut-off for next day delivery". Nope, for just £1.99 on top of the standard delivery charge it was with me by 11 the next morning. £53 total with a three year guarantee. Amazing value.

There is IMO a very good article in 'Autoexpress; by Mike Rutherford. 'Electric cars could end up like Betamax'. He hits the nail on the head.

This might help with the procedure: https://youtu.be/ZD2rOX7xx4A?si=HBp5guaDyesvmWPS

I fitted a new water pump to mine last year for pretty much the same leak. I fitted a new genuine Skoda water pump which is the whole thing including thermostats and housing. I paid £243.80 inc vat for the pump, belt and 5 litres of premixed coolant. You can buy just the pump part from motor factors but I decided it was better to just change the whole thing as it all has to come off anyway. It isn’t too bad of a job which took me about 2 hours. You have to remove the battery and battery tray and air intake pipe to the turbo to get access and you need to use a torque wrench to put the correct tension on the belt. couple of pics from when it was apart, 3rd photo is the old pump with the belt cover removed ;

AFAIK that only applies to the TDI, and definitely not to the EA211 engine (1.4TSI and 1.5TSI).

Cheers. Water pump on this model is not part of the cambelt. The water pump lives on the other side of the block with its own belt. Driven by the exhaust camshaft.

oops, sorry my bad - teach me to read posts correctly😁

Should the OP still be driving their vehicle with this fault? I certainly would not with any question regarding the oil pressure, maybe if I had checked the live readings with VCDS and been satisfied but I would not be happy until I had resolved the warning light activation.

TC-6 is a trip computer sold as original acessory. There's variant TC-6P with locked calibration menu and consumption reset - that hints its original purpose, to monitor fuel consumption on company vehicles, in times when fuel theft from a company car was very popular way to save some money It takes signal directly from the fuel injector and tachometer and it can be calibrated for almost perfect accuracy.

I just used a long screwdriver to clip the damper back into place. Was easier for me. Also the side panel on the dash can be removed to make things easier.

I finally got around to fixing my screen washers today. Am posting what I learnt in the process. 1) The screen washer pump on the Kodiaq (unlike other Skoda models) do not have a fuse. So don't waste any time (like I did) looking for one. Apparently when the pump fails the electrical system simply disables the pump. It does not generate a fault code which is a bit annoying. 2) For me the front and rear washers and the headlight washers had stopped working. I found it odd that both the screen and headlight washers had both stopped working at the same time, as the headlight washer uses a separate pump to the front/rear screens, so odd that both pumps would have stopped working at the same time. It turns out that this is just a quirk of the Kodiaq, if one pump stops working, for some reason the car also prevents the other pump from functioning. 3) The front and rear washers share the same pump. The headlight washer pump is separate. 4) After looking through various other forums, my fix was simply to replace the 'front and rear' washer pump, which I did today. Luckily for me this was the issue and everything it back up and working again, including the headlight washers. The replacement pump I found on Amazon for £13. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B006DHY3UC?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1. I probably could have got it cheaper from elsewhere, but ordered from Amazon for ease. Not an original part but it works fine. 5) Replacing the pump is a bit of a pain due to it's location, but perfectly easy to do if you know one end of a screwdriver from another. It involves removing the front left wheel and removing the wheel liner to get to the pump. Probably took me a couple of hours, at a leisurely pace, to do it in total. Page 64 of the Skoda Kodiaq Electrical System Workshop guide and page 232 of the General Body Repairs workshop guide (both can easily be found online for free download) explains all of the steps. I put an axel stand under the front suspension arm of the car whilst I was working on it as I daren't trust my life to just a scissor jack holding the car up. 6) Windscreen wipers and washers will only function when the bonnet is closed (pretty obvious!). 7) Headlight washers will only function with headlights on and the car is in motion. Headlight washer will function once, on first pull of the washer stalk, and then again on every 10th pull of the stalk. Thats all!

My new beast. I got I just before Christmas and absolutely loving it so far.

Cheers for the quick and thorough reply: You have a Warranty for awhile and Consumer rights. - As in even if I don't opt for their extended on if offered? If the Servicing record is not up to date, with paperwork surely you are not parting with £16,000. & no Warranty. - Not seen it yet just online, but I wont by without a visit or two. I just want to have things to ask in advance, and what to ask if I go. It needs the Servicing to manufacturers guidelines, manufacturers recommendations before getting a Skoda Warranty is worth the money. If there is according to them a known issue they knock back a claim, yet they have sold you a warranty. - So how do I tell if its on whichever servicing plan? If it was sat for sale but the yearly one came round and was missed des that negate any Skoda claim? Would other companies cover it? Any recommendations for good warranty companies or is that an oxymoron? You would be looking for a car that starts and drives perfectly and you want to drive at least 20 miles. - check Have you driven automatics or even a DSG before? - Yes to both, currently rocking a Outlander Phev so sort of auto, and had many hire cars including this mark of Octavia and other VAG group cars, A1 was one that springs to mind that was fun to drive. I just don't know what a bad DSG sounds or feels like? No lights should be on in the dash once you are going, and after 5-10 miles when it is warmed up and you boot it a bit. - Check If there is not much petrol in get a gallon in. How many miles has it done and how old is it? - Its on 49k and is a late September 19 car. Over the past 2 years how many miles between MOT,s. - So its a 2019 so I guessed it would have a 22 MOT? but the first one on the gov.uk site shows a date of October 23, it failed for: Do not drive until repaired (dangerous defects): Offside Front Brake pad(s) less than 1.5 mm thick (1.1.13 (a) (ii)) Repair immediately (major defects): Offside Front Service brake excessively binding (1.2.1 (f)) Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories): Nearside Front Brake disc worn, but not excessively (1.1.14 (a) (i)) Offside Front Brake disc worn, but not excessively (1.1.14 (a) (i)) Nearside Front Brake pad(s) wearing thin (1.1.13 (a) (ii)) Which were fixed that day and passed. Why has it been on the books for so long is the concern. Has it been getting used as a courtesy car or something. - Not from what they said when I asked. I had a few emails to and frow I asked things like: Is there anything about the car that you would say needs looking at? we will give the car a fresh mot and service prior to leaving ourselves , the car will also under go a full heath check to make sure everything is as it should be. Can you send the reg number over? Just wanted to do some checks before making plans to visit. They sent it and I did a basic check and used it on the gov.uk check sites. I went back with. "do you have any info on the history of the car? I noticed it hasn't been taxed since March 2022. Is there a reason? Also I'm not missing anything in terms of it being a write off and repaired or anything you know of?" We purchased the car from the previous owner which is a large who run a flet of Skoda’s. They buy from new and change every 3 to 4 years. We did purchase about 15+ off them at the same time. Funnily enough they were from Portishead so down your neck off the woods. The car has had 2 services and due its 3rd now , which we would do prior to leaving ourselves along with a fresh 12months M.O.T We purchased the cars at the start of last year and this one is still with us, which sometimes happens. The reason why it hasn’t sold, ive not the foggiest. Was it to expensive to start with? Was it the colour? Was it the market? The mind just boggles. The car is HPI clear so not an insurance right off, stolen, damaged or on finance. (please find attached ) - and included in attachment was a dealer HPI check. I went back with I'll think about it, still not 100% on driving all the way up at the moment, but thanked them. Main Dealer Servicing does not have much doing without paying for the extras. - As in don't bother? You want to know when the Spark Plugs were replaced. - going on the reply you sent last with service info, it has had 2x service so not got to the spark plug one yet. The Brake Fluid. - See last reply (although I could get this knocked off the price/done by them as I know Skoda are picky about the brake fluids from the Rapid my partner has). The DSG does not get serviced it is a DQ200 twin dry clutch. *You want a warranty that covers it though.* - Do you know anyone that covers it? Also is it a "servicable item" as in if I said its been standing for ages, I'd liek to get it serviced once I own it, and see if they knock some more off for that? Or is it a sealed unit? Thanks again for the reply. My part ex was around £5k from reg number and me sending some picks, its a 135k so high mileage hence me looking to swap out. I dont do more than 8-9k a year I purchased it in lockdown with 110 on it.

The crux of the matter is Not cheap to run for private buyers who require to do public rapid charging or even fast charging in some regions. It matters not how often cheap off peak tariffs or utility scheme discounts are mentioned if the people without those just want a car. Even a Public Tariff from a Tesla charger around 50 pence a kWh is not that cheap if you get 3 miles to a kWh. 10 kWh = £5.00 for 30 miles. Talking Super Market Rapid charging and 70 pence a kWh, & 4 miles a kWh is £7.00 for 40 miles and a vehicle who's depreciation is getting to be anyone's guess. Maybe good for those looking for much cheapness though in pretty new EV,s. , those getting cheap charging...

DSG needs an oil change every 40k miles. Haldex service intervals are a bit of a debate. Probably every 30k miles at least and very importantly, make sure that it's done properly, not just an oil change. Black Edition - I think that means it's a Facelift car? In which case, it's fitted with a Haldex 5. Contrary to any VAG main dealer practice, that means that the Haldex pump should be removed and the gauze strainer cleaned. Has the car had the dreaded 'Emissions Fix'? If so, get it rolled back. It's not conducive to EGR longevity. In respect of carbon contamination, it's worth putting a bottle of cleaner in 1/3 of a tank of diesel ever few months, depending on mileage. I use Cataclean DPF cleaner. You might want to give it the occasional CarbonClean treatment which is, essentially, steam cleaning the inside of the engine while it's running. Finally, I'd suggest only running it on premium diesel. HTH

Thanks everyone. Pretty clear then it's not DSG.

The journo should look forward not backwards. In the next few months the Dacia Spring at well under £20k, selling them for less than £13K in Germany, no subsidies. Citreon e3 will also be much cheaper than £32k, more like £22k. I got my Zoe on pcp, retail was £33k but that was artificial high a dealer immediately came up with 6k discount and you the tax payer added another £2.5k as there was EV subsidies then. Low interest with the pcp too. So not on a company car scheme, private arrangement and that is despite having a company fuel card. EV is nice to drive, eco responsible and very cheap to run for energy and servicing, even compared to only paying a fifth the price for fuel due to the fuel card still the EV is as cheap. It will be an easy choice to go full EV on both cars in a few months as the salary sacrifice for a TESLA Model 3 standard range, no premium road tax, pcp 300 to 400 quid a month with the 40% reduction in monthly cost due to uk government salary sacrifice scheme. Will miss my mild hybrid Arkana but it has to go as Renault cannot supply cars incapable of driving in EV mode as they and other makers get fined for selling cars over 95 gm per km and they must meet the 22 % pure EV quota too or be fined.

It's actually signal from two injectors, since the Simos ECU drives injectors in pairs. And I don't think it's able to adjust the other pair, since there's only a single lambda probe for all cylinders. That's why you can calibrate TC6 measurements by +-6%. If there's bigger deviation from reality, there are other problems to be solved than fuel flow measurements.

That wont happen because unlike my Sony Betamax VCR I have not bought an EV 😁 It was worth the humiliation though, it was the first and only time that I had a bank loan to purchase something, a loan I was still paying back when the VCR was ditched. I must at some time have been abducted by aliens and a different person returned to earth in my body, I cannot identify at all with a muppet so desperate to have the latest must have in his rented housing association bedsit that he took out a bank loan. That caused my contractors liability insurance premium to skyrocket and with exclusions meaning that I could not even use a gas powered pencil soldering irom without employing someone to stand beside me with a fire extinguisher. Another experience worth having though, from that day on the only insurances I have ever had have been those I am legally obliged to, my house is not even insured, it has cellular clay block walls, concrete ceilings and virtually nothing flammable inside, no curtains like Windsor Castle, a fire starting from a birds nest in the right place in the eaves in the right conditions might, just might burn the roof timbers but even the A frames are concrete block. I still would not allow an electric Trottinette inside though 😃, I evicted my final renter because he was too attached to his derestricted 70kph Chinese fire waiting to happen to park it outside in the secure storage shed with charging facilities that I had created especially for him and repeatedly brought it into his apartment. I had insurance and had gone completely over the top with fire prevention measures unlike any other similar establishment but I was not going to compromise the safety of other occupants.

Its a very easy job, took mine out yesterday to replace my 12v power socket fuse, as I wanted to put some air within my tyres. I also managed to unhook the damper arm and put it back on again without taking the side panel off. Just need a long narrow screwdriver to do so. I also hooked the damper arm on fully extended, prior to pushing the bottom clips in. You can fit the screwdriver down the left-hand side of the glove box whilst its open to unhook it. Once the glovebox is out you can see the pollen filter cover at the right hand side. Maybe I just got lucky with my technique lol.

Severity greater than a burning liquid flowing like a lava flow ? Treatment is different yes, fire blankets seem to be a better way to act on EV traction battery fires. Maybe have stratified car parks. Lower levels for ICE where water sprinkler can be deployed and upper levels where fire blankets can drop from the roof to over the vehicle but reality is the vast majority of cark parks have no fire fighting equipment and that is the cheap way of having car parks as despite the hysteria with parts of media as fires are rare although making spectacular pictures and click bait articles.

I take it the King and the Heir will never travel in the same vehicle. Hopefully the vehicles are not allowed any place near the British Isles Heritage buildings to park or be charged. The Royals have always had a financial interest in the VW Group. That is really part of their heritage. They are aware of their Carbon Footprint as they head out in convoy and then fly with a fighter jet escort up to Scotland rather than getting on the Royal Train with the entourage.

I managed to get over 70mpg on Hybrid over a longer journey (90 miles). The trick is (as posted elsewhere on this thread) to have: hybrid selected + untick the auto box + sports mode (not entirely sure if this is required - I need to experiment) + set your required charge level high (e.g. 80%) + lots of coasting + drive conservatively (i.e. try to avoid using the brake = look ahead, which is a responsible driving style anyway) ..... and it works!!! At times I was close to 80mpg. This was actually the first time I have had the opportunity to try this out since having the car. Re my original question, again, on pure E coasting helps, as does pre air con .. but for lots of short winter journeys, any EV is going to struggle to get a good return; thankfully I can top up the battery every night on my 7p/kWh Octopus intelligent go tariff so I am very happy with how it is all working out now and it will only get better as we move out of winter.

Thank you sir! I think you may have found my noise. It doesn't matter if I'm going straight and steering. It tends to be when the suspension really drops low. I find after not being driven or if on a long motorway run. I've the suspension is not being used. I will try and spray them up with silicone spray to see if it stops and then go from there. Many thanks 🙏

Why disable permanently? Simply go to locking ( i think) in the info menu and tick the box to disable auto lock, I did 2 years ago when I had mine and thats the end of the auto lock feature

I've not had it at all since I had the firmware updates on my car, but I'm also aware on my car they effectively re-coded the entire car after the updates were done - which may make a difference.

This has happend to us, but turning off the car and then restarting fixes the problem. it is not a temp ralated problem, will be a software problem. not that they will say so.

I had it for a few days in a row in September, it disappeared and didn't come up since. WTF

Enough of that, thanks...

Hi, As promised, here is the way I solved my problem. To make it easier, you need to unscrew the complete armrest. For that, open the ski hatch and fold it down. 2 torx screws are located at the bottom and fixed to the back rest. Once armrest is removed, then unscrew the leather part. 2 other torx screws are located on each side, somehow on the pivoting axle. Then you need to remove the carpet covering on the back of the ski hatch to access 4 inner hooks. I used a heat gun set at 120°C to unglue the carpet covering. You have to unlock several small hooks all around the armrest. But the closer to the front of the armrest you get, the harder it is. To make it easier, you need to unlock the 2 inner hooks at the bottom of the armrest. But, they're quite hard to unlock. For each of them, you have to press some sort of tab to be able to unlatch the hooks. See below, the tab in the lower rectangle and the hooks in the upper rectangle. Then do the same with both inner hooks at the front of the armrest. But, honestly, it's a mess! I've had cold sweat not to break both shells. It took me more than 2 hours to have enough access. Once the arm rest is enough opened (if not totally) , you can get back the banana-shaped missing lug: Put the handle back in place and then put the lug back in place too (blue rectangle below). Then attach the spring with one hook on the shell (yellow rectangle below), and the other one on the handle (red rectangle below): Note: I had to "close" hooks at each end of the spring with pliers, to be sure it remains "attached" to the shell and the handle. Finally, I "glued" both lugs with black car and boat putty. Then you just have to clip both shells, which takes... less than 20s. As I unfortunately broke few small hooks around the edge, I used black car and boat putty agains to get a nice finish at both shells junction. Now that's done, you can put the covering carpet back in place, using an iron tor make the glue "melt" into the carpet. No worry, if the carpet gets a bit "polished" and shiny. You get its original appearance just by scratching the carpet with a cutter blade. Then just reassemble the armrest back into the car. That's it!

I've always seen the change intervals as a guidance, anyway. As if they were to snap early out of warranty then that would be up to the individual to foot the bill. I'm pleased I don't have one of the more modern wet belts to pay for & they seem more problematic with certain manufacturers. I've owned mainly vauxhalls since the 80's on, decided to switch to Skoda a few years ago, hoping for better reliability than the recent Stellantis rubbish. Have you had many reports of snapped belt with the 1.5tsi on here? Although as you've pointed out with the water pump, I'd expect those could fail first. I like my 1.5tsi engine & especially now it's fitted to a wagon, just took me a while to get there. Thanks for the info.

Yes even better, as you have an auto, same as I. Although you have no choice but to leave it in park to extract your keys. Sticking brakes prior to setting off after the car has been left for a while is common & not manufacturer specific. As it doesn't take long for the discs to start rusting, mine is the same, especially after I've washed it for obvious reasons.

Most of your questions are answered in the "Questions/Réponses" at the bottom of the web page, as I thought they are reprogramming the vehicles ECU to adapt to the E85 Bioethanol and must be using the same method of sensing the fuel mix that the flex fuel cars like the Ford Puma, Focus and Kuga do. I dont know how they can in consecutive sentences state quite correctly that E85 has 30% less calorific value than petrol and then conclude that by using it you will get an increase in power and torque, the only way that can be done is by raising the compression ratio to take advantage of the higher octane and using a lot more fuel. A pal had an old Renault Laguna converted to E85 with an aftermarket tuning box, the fuel consumption was much worse but back then boi-ethanol was very cheap in that area as we were a big producer.

ACC doesnt use the windscreen sensor. There's a radar sensor in the front grille. I suspect a covering of frost was affecting the sensor, once the frost had thawed it was OK again

Thanks, I took it to a mechanic and he checked all the hoses and things to do with the turbo and all good. No leaks, no faulty valves or whatever (can you tell I am not mechanically literate?) Reckons it's just the noise the turbo makes now and nothing to worry about.

This part of the thread is for whats up next, including photos, whats involved and a fair bit more We are now moving into the wider territory (with some of the below) of very broad 'factory' retrofits and some of these youll see arent even options for the superb either for that model or that age. Heated washer jets Not a big retrofit and will probably make next to no difference, but this retrofit is as simple as 2 washer jet nozzles, 2 plugs, 4 terminals, a ground and a power wire to the BCM and only 1 adaptation change. Heated steering wheel I managed to source a steering wheel from sweden at a bargain price that matched the spec I wanted, After importing that and changing the airbag and clockspring assembly out, we then had to rewire the plug that goes into the clockspring, all well documented on other forums so no need to go into it too much. Most of the photos are above already but when the wiring is done, ill post more photos. Ventilated front Sportline seats Now this is where things start to get interesting, Ventilated seats were an option, but never ventilated sportline seats, and with the perforated fabric it looks perfect for the job. First it was near impossible to actually find a set of any ventilated seats for sale, let alone a set of stripped seats to see the internal workings. This means im working completely blind so i began doing some research to find out exactly how these work and what would be required. So the first part is the fan itself, you'd think these blow into the seat, but they actually suck out of the seat. So the fabric itself is perforated, below this is the heating element with all excess fabric removed, then the sponge has a lot of holes through it, below this is the spacer mesh which looks like a rigid spiders web, the last part is a sealed layer, the fan then pulls a vacuum through the entire seat. This is controlled by a LIN channel to the BCM which is the easy part. The hard part will be modifying the seats. I now have all the required parts, now its just finding time to strip the seat down. Door pocket ambient lights Another fairly easy and straight forward retrofit, 4x lights 4K0919390A/B/E/F and 4x plugs 8K0973754, these simply link into the ambient door light strips and need a few adaptation changes to turn them on. Wireless phone charger/booster Most would call this a fairly pointless retrofit but my plan is to add the USB hub, fit wireless carplay to the centre console, then the front pocket will be free to charge my phone. Lots of people complain about overheating from inductive charging so a small idea I had was to T off the glovebox cold air feed, run a small 3mm silicone pipe to the back of the phonebox and connect it to a 180 degree irrigation nozzle to blow a very small amount of cold air into the cubby area. Now the actually charger and booster, although it looks fairly straightforward, the entire front cubby area gets changed, then a fakra cable is ran to the NSR corner of the car where the signal booster is, another fakra is then ran to the roof antenna which also needs changing. This all links into the infotainment system and the kessy system even. USB Hub The photos above and below show this quite well but this basically transforms your single front USB port into a USB port at the front, and in the centre glovebox - both Apple and android compatible too! All thats needed is the USB hub and 2 low level USB ports (DONT use high spec ports) A very good guide is located here TV Tuner Another fairly pointless retrofit, but having spent a lot of hours sitting in my car, the TV would be lovely! This is quite the retrofit and the process varies a fair bit between estate/hatchback. The parts required are the tv tuner, 3 new antenna boosters, the trim panels and then the fun part of the wiring. Fakra cables need to be ran to both rear quarters and into the tailgate for all the new antennas, the new antennas dont always have wires to connect to the glass so this often needs to be soldered to the glass carefully! You also need a MOST cable but luckily I have the virtual cockpit so I can loop off of that. Webasto Parking Heater I wish I had this one ready for winter already, but sadly not - this would serve 2 purposes - the cold winter mornings going to work, and also when we sleep in the car on long road trips to keep it warm without the engine running. The parts involved in this are: External fuel pump, Fuel lines to front of car, Webasto unit, A whole bunch of coolant pipes, Remote control module, Remote control and then a whole bunch of wiring and plugs running all across the car! This allows you to either set a timer or use the fob remote to turn on the heater from a fair distance away! It also allows the ability to ventilate the car on very hot days to drop the internal temperature. (I even went to the added detail of ordering the 2 stickers that the car would have left the factory with.) Dynamic Chassis Control (DCC) With two of my shock absorbers leaking - the smart thing to do would be to replace them at £100 each. But no, I decided to spend a huge sum of money on brand new genuine DCC shock absorbers. This isnt an easy task and the wiring required is absolutely massive! 4x new arch looms, 2x level sensors, 3x accelerometers, 1x control unit and all the wiring to go with it. Not to mention custom datasets for a few modules. Custom twisted pairs were required for this to match all the factory wiring perfectly. As you can see from the photos - A LOT OF WIRING Areaview/Panoramic View/360 This one I think will ***** a lot of peoples ears up - Areaview was never an option for the pre facelift superb so a lot of parts dont fit, this means a fair bit of creativity is required. 4 cameras are added to the car, the rear camera is for 2019 onwards tailgates but luckily as I fitted the FL trim, I can fit the rear camera with no issues. The front camera on the facelift is in the grill, this is a problem on the pre-FL as we have a large radar there and it would interfere. After looking at how a lot of other cars do this, It seems that the pre-FL passat had theirs in the lower front grill, So with a bit of 3D modeling I am creating a bracket to secure the camera in the same place as a passat. The next issue is the wing mirrors - a brand new mirror is £700 each side and there are no used parts available. So the next best thing, LHD versions. These are yet to turn up and i'm sure ill be bitten in the ass when the LHD cant be used in some way on RHD cars (I believe the unit sits at different angles) so may have to get creative. Next is getting the HSD wires through the door into the car, many people just turn them into pins and use spare pin holes, but this isnt OE enough for me. So I purchased the correct door connectors and wiring from the FL which have a cut out for the HSD connector - these connectors are not standard so sadly I had no choice but to buy from Skoda. After I've made all the custom HSD cables and ran them into the car, next is where to mount the control unit, on the factory cars it is under the drivers seat (where my TV tuner lives) and even if not, it is only held in with a ugly piece of polystyrene, I plan to mount it under the TV tuner in a cut out, directly against the car body and held down by the TV tuner bracket. As more parts turn up, ill update this further.

I found the most difficult bit was getting damper arm to stay in the correct angle while getting compartment into position. I think I resorted to using a strip of gaffa tape over the pivot in the end.

Hello everyone, I updated the unit from 353 version to 366 version. I will update it with 367, 368 and 369 in the coming days.

I dunno. I reckon this is probably a gain for them. Instead of needing skilled techs spending many hours tied up doing complex cambelts they'll have more space and time for less skilled ones to be fitting questionably necessary brake discs and pads. Much better margins.

They are yours to download for life, and you an print from the PDF's too if needed. There is "ElsaPro" section that has the PDF's in a web based format, that you can view "live" so to speak, they are harder to print, but if you have spare time, look in there under what is called the "red book" (red icon) with TPI documents that you can download, if you look at my user account, you can see some pages saved from these TPI documents for viewing. For this you need to use a PDF "printer" function usually built into Windows 10+ takes a little more work to get the page printed, but not too much. Fun fact: In 1 hr you can download the ENTIRE Skoda car range 😉

That would be great, thanks!