Leaderboard

Im surprised there hasnt been a thread on this already? that Ive seen any way. what were Ford thinking when they decided to once again decided to use an historically beloved model name for a frickin EV SUV?? The big fat Mustang Mach E was bad, but now they gone and made a "Capri" crossover EV that has none of the original styling or even barely a nod to it. https://www.carwow.co.uk/ford/news/7748/new-ford-capri-electric-suv-price-specs#gref

speaking of FOS oooof

A few aircraft from today............

I work in a technology role and my job involves some programming among other bits of various system tinkering. I feel like programming can be (and should be) faultless if it's done well. The problem is, that deciding whether there's an immediate hazard in your path while driving is an immensely complex computation. It's something that we might not even be that good at when we first pass our driving tests at 17 but we are absolutely attuned to tiny nuances about our surroundings after we've been doing it a year or more. I think it's mildly arrogant of current automotive manufacturers to think that this can be reproduced by a computer with the current level of sophistication that they can build. My Fabia front assist sensor has went off once, so far, when I was approaching a left hand bend which also has a right turn slip road. There was a lorry waiting in the slip road, ready to turn off to the right when it was clear. My car decided I was potentially gonna plough into the lorry, despite me having a clear path round the left hand bend. It just beeped at me and didn't do any braking, thank God. It's also done the yellow warning triangle saying there's a malfunction a couple of times, too. It went away both times without me wiping the sensor. I wish it didn't exist.

In my experience, road noise will always be the most prominent noise inmmost cars, except on smooth asphalte road surfaces, where slight wind noise then begins to redominate on motorways in my Karoq. I significantly reduced road noise on my MY19 1.0SE tech DSG a year ago, by amongst other things, going for AW tyres, switching to 16" wheels at the same time. SELs may not be the quietest option as they have removeable rear seats which means they have the roll top boot cover. Fixed rear seats on cheaper models come with a more solid rear shelf which reduces road noise to some extent and I found that there was further mileage in damping down that shelf with wooden stiffening battens fixed to the shelf underside and putting some heavyish matts on top of the shelf. A bit extreme I know but I'm fussy and I do find road noise wearing in any car, even though I don't listen to the car radio much. CAR magazine in early tests noted that the 1.0 was the quietest of all the engine options and I must say I find engine noise is almost undetectable in most driving, including motorways at up to 90mph, even after my road noise reduction efforts. There is a very slight roughness at idling when cold and a minor drone between 1500-2000rpm, when the engine is working hard say on uphills. With the DSG it is easy to change to Sport mode and increase the revs outside this range, not that it is a big issue really. 4cyl engines will have some sort of minor drone too, somewhere in the rev range, but you may find the 1.5 much easier to get hold of. The SE tech came with ACC and I love it despite it's foibles. It was one of the few versions to be so equipped as standard. It's even better working in combination with the DSG. You'll be lucky to find a second hand 1.0 DSG though, as they stopped making them in 2019 and I was very lucky to find the SE tech version when I bought mine. I preferred the equipment supplied on the SE tech to the SEL option.

You do away with the 1.6 and map the 2.0 to the same power and torque. Limiting the torque to 250NM means cheaper gearboxes and running gear. All about Market Placement. Diesel market is small now. Just 6.5% of sale in the UK so cheaper to offer one engine in different power outputs than a 1.6 and a 2.0.

I am 99% sure that there is no cable for rear view camera as you did't add one in your trim

In what way other than the early nylon cam gear and oil pump drive issues? Both were resolved via modified parts resulting in a pretty reliable engine that was used by a multitude of other low volume manufacturers.

Yesterday

It's basically a Skoda Eyaq in drag.

The Crapi was always crap. Sharing the same running gear as the Cortina, as these there is a good song about the Cortina by the TR band. Joke suspension, poor engines as standard, maybe the 2.8 I was not half bad. Use to enjoy blowing Crapis in to weeds in Doly Sprints and my Opel Manta was a much better car as were various Alfas and other machines. Now a rwd Escort or Cosworth something to respect. I like modern sports coupes but these new capri looks and sounds like something very bang average or worse. Use to be buy a Ford if you cannot afford, or have the imagination, to buy anything decent.

JeffffeJ The graph below shows the MPI 1.0 motor's power curve (white line - PS (horsepower)) and torque curve (orange line - Nm (Newton-Metres)) Torque is a measurement of a motor's 'twisting force' and (basically) the higher the Nm number, the greater a cars' pulling power. Torque is what you need to start from stationary and in order to accelerate. You'll see from the graph that, at 1000rpm, torque is at its lowest, as is power. By 2000rpm the power figure has not risen much, but the torque figure has increased significantly and peaks at 3700rpm. Regarding 'labouring' there's really no Yes-or-No answer. If your car's motor were turning at 1500rpm in 5th gear and you were driving on a steep downhill slope, the car would still accelerate quite quickly if you depressed the accelerator as not much torque is required in that situation. However, if you attempted to accelerate in 5th gear at 1500rpm on a steep uphill slope, not only would the car be unable to do this, but it should be apparent to you that the motor did not 'like' being treated in that way. My Fabia has automatic transmission, but the "Economical driving style" section in my car's Owner's Manual indicates that Fabia Mk 4 cars with a manual gearbox have a gear-changing prompt feature (my Manual says "Follow the gear changing recommendation on the instrument cluster display") Nowadays most modern cars with a manual gearbox have an indicator showing the gear the car is in and - if the car's computer 'thinks' a higher gear could be used for better fuel-economy - it will be 'suggested' to the driver that he/she changes up. This feature can also operate vice-versa so that - if the computer 'thinks' the driver is in too high a gear (when the car may well be 'labouring') - it will recommend a downwards change. You will need to get to know your car to decide how best to drive it, but - for now - the gear-change indicator should give you a reasonable idea of which gear you should be in.

I've used eBay without issue for 32gb cards 👍 It needs to have the correct CID (like a serial number) on the SD card so a generic one won't work.

Hi I am new member of your site. Have an Yeti 2016 Outdoor 1.4 STI 4x4 , for the time being located in beautiful Telemark, Norway

I got mine done at Timpsons. Cost about £160 if I remember rightly. The guy didn't have the correct key in stock so he ordered it in for me, couple days later I went down there and it took him about an hour. I'm sure there are other companies that do them but I've never had any issues with Timpsons.

Sorry yes it’s a tdi, think I’m going to have to get a 2nd opinion from a different mechanic because like you said something isn’t right as the oil consumption is crazy

And so the work begins. Getting ready to be shipped off for repair!

Feels like I have just returned to the latter part of the last century when reading this post. I am 67 shortly, and have never driven a car in 'break in' mode for well over 30 years. Modern cars just need to be driven as you would drive it all the time.

Pretty sure all superbs have IRS.

Not sure about your model but there are several bulletins on the Octavia. Transport blocks damaged shocker dust covers, dust covers need modifying, suspension arm bushes need lubrication etc.

The 2.0 TDI,s with 116ps use the DQ200 DSG, In VW Golfs as well. Pretty good fuel economy from them, but 1st gear to 2nd is a PITA. This economy was just after collecting it and back roads home. Hire car, but over the time i had it it still did amazing economy even on motorways.

Interesting - I didn't know there was 116PS 2 litre diesel. How do that get the power ouput so low?! 😀 We had that engine (assuming it's EA288) in Tiguan DSG 4Motion with 150PS. It was fine, but I wouldn]t have wanted anything less powerful. Got rid of it at 8yrs old when could no longer renew the All In cover and the emissions stuff on the car terrified me - not just the AdBlue, but it has 3 cooling circuits and 2 coolant pumps. It used to regen a lot too - around every 200 miles - and we always ran it on Shell V Power which was eye-wateringly expensive (but only used a tank per month). The 1.5TSi Karoq we have now I'd say drives very similarly. Car is really my wife's and she does mainly semi-rural running around, few miles to shops and schools etc. I track the MPG and overall it's the same as Tiguan was at calculated 38MPG. Tiguan would just about touch 50MPG on a long run. Karoq will surpass that if put in Eco drive mode (usually use normal). Although the cambelt and water pump time change at 5yrs has officially been done away with it seems a lot of folks reckon it's still worth doing on the diesels but less vital on petrols.

BMW i5 is available as an estate. But it's another step up in cost.

Stop driving it (obviously) and get it back to the bodyshop; there’s something they have not calibrated/fixed/replaced.

We have a Karoq and a Fabia but I have driven Kamiq and Scala extensively. The Fabia, Scala and Kamiq share the same MQB A0 platform and the interiors are very similar. The Kamiq feels like a raised Scala rather than an SUV. If you want a small raised SUV from the same stable then the VW T-Cross is worth a look. The Karoq is a different proposition. It's on the bigger MQB platform, feels a fair bit bigger than the Kamiq and you sit higher, you get more tech on the Karoq but the price is significant step up. Seating wise the Fabia and Kamiq are pretty similar, go for a model with lumbar adjustment and if mobility is an issue avoid the Monte Carlo with sports seats. The Karoq has larger seats but the seat base angle is a problem for some. As it's all subjective test drive them all and see what you think.

Likewise. IMO, before any of these systems are allowed on our roads the last test should be to have the project managers walk in front of the vehicles and see if they survive unscathed!

"Labouring", also known as "chugging" (in English) from the noise the engine makes, is when the engine is struggling to pull the car up a hill. So there's no "never rev below these revs" speed as such, but the steeper the hill (or heavier the car) the higher the engine speed you need stop it labouring. For instance you would need to rev the engine higher to get up a given hill with 3 friends in the car than when you're by yourself. I've not reread the thread or read the article, but "running in" periods are much less restrictive than they used to be. For example, in the 1960s running in might be 1_600km at no more than 70km/h. In the 1980s my Dad's first new car said "Running in - Do not exceed 4_000 (four thousand) rpm for the first 1_600km". No problem. Also @DerekU The so-called "gear indicator", whether it be a recommended gear number or "/\" and "\/" arrows like on my sister's Honda Jazz, is basically a vacuum gauge (used to measure inlet manifold depression from atmospheric pressure) with an output of a number or an arrow rather than a pressure.

it's quite impressive in a way

If you could get the error code , it would offer further insight. Even after the engine light going out, the code would still be stored.

@JeffffeJ Yes, I would say below 1500 rpm is definitely time to change down a gear with a small petrol engine. Modern engines are built to such high standards they really do work quite happily straight out of the box. Ive driven the mk3 1.0 mpi and really like them. I’m glad they still fit this in the mk4, should be a reliable good car.

Thanks for the welcome. Didn’t think my order was anything out of the ordinary. Velvet red with travel assist plus pack, winter plus pack plus spare wheel. Originally told it would be end of May and then received email saying it had been delayed to August. Dealer says it’s to do with a chip shortage. Personally I think it’s to do with the percentage of electric cars a maker has to sell in relation to petrol and diesel cars plus this speed limiter that has to be on all new cars from 7 July.

Sooooo, "Lots Of Trouble, Usually Serious" have developed a way of turning $2.3 million into lots of tyre smoke and splintered carbon fibre in about 5 seconds?

Welcome to the forum, if you can supply me your reg I can give you a definitive answer. as I’m on my phone I can’t be sure of if you have your car details in your profile so can’t check. Older 1.0 engines had the water pump driven by the belt, newer 1.0/1.2 engines have the water pump driven by the opposite end of the exhaust camshaft. the water pump belt does not need changing on these newer setups but the normal cambelt does. Take note that if you have a much much newer 1.0/1.2/1.4 with ACT (active cylinder technology) don’t expect much change from £1000 for a belt change.

It’ll be interesting to hear how you get on.

Now i know why i feel energized like a Duracell Bunny & hearing voices. Voice of a dafty with a Porsche Taycan.

Hello, a strong possibility that the 'knock' last October is the cause for that small change in toe. Unless the axle was bent in the accident, I believe that it is actually possible to make limited changes in alignment with the torsion beam axle setup.

I can't see how but I'm not a lawyer. If you're not fiddling with the infotainment, phone, Tw8tNav and concentrating on your driving you should be OK we managed for decades without such driver "aids" such things can made driver's too lazy and complacent anyway. It could be a sensor or alignment issue but I never rule out programming error, I doubt VWŠkoda will want you to know the real issue even when they fix it. At least now you switched it off you don't have to worry about puddles or shadows of bridges, whether either is correct I don't know but it'd not surprise me, computer programming is often not as good as it's made out to be but all your product testing in the real world will help improve it.

I'd like to think you're right about that so thanks. In the first post (Headphones) there was this "I don’t know if there’s any connection but my infotainment system keeps crashing too. Won’t let me access the heating/cooling controls, unless I turn the engine off and back on again?" We had great difficulty getting to grips with various settings and it turned out that lots of changes required the engine to be running. This was a horrendous waste of fuel as you don't have the option to turn on/off the ignition. A lot of scope remains for improving the infotainment system. It's hard to understand why Skoda haven't tried things out with potential customers to get their feedback before rolling stuff out.

It doesn’t need to be “mapped out” We can add the option to switch between ACC and standard cruise control for you. That way nothing is lost, and the option is always there

A lovely end to the day..............

For me it's pressures that make the most difference. When towing I up the pressures to the loaded setting (2.4/3.0bar) and when not towing it crashes about. Normal loads it's down to 2.2bar and a much smoother ride. I would like to use the eco pressures of 2.5bar to save fuel but it's just to hard a ride for British roads. I run Nexen N-blue all season tyres and they give a reasonable ride. Best thing for a smoother ride is to swap to 16" wheels

I've never tried this on the 1.8tsi but back in the day one trick I used on old oil burners was removing spark plugs and squirting a good slug of Plusgas into every bore and leaving overnight. Followed by squirting a bit of oil into each bore the nextday, turning over a few times & not starting and then changing the oil. Certainly worked on Ford pre crossflow engines that were prone to oil scraper ring gumming/oil burning.

Wow, that's good. What the hell are Skoda doing charging £1800 ? Some fools must be paying it.

My 2016 Owners Manual (pages 162,163), under Diesel Fuel "The vehicle can only be operated with diesel fuel that meets the EN 590 standard" "All diesel engines can be operated using diesel fuel with at most 7% biodiesel (B7)" "The vehicle cannot be operated with biofuel RME, therefore this fuel must not be refuelled and driven"

Sorry I don't buy that. If the battery were that far gone it's hard to see how the car would even start in the first place but once running the alternator should provide the power to keep it going. Does it happen if you instead turn the headlights on or even just flash them with the stalk, that will draw far more current than any horn. If not then it ain't the battery.

Best go to someplace that knows what they are doing and that charges a fair hourly rate.

Get a fault code read done. Common failure is the pump reporting back as failed but a new pump often does not work because the ECU is water damaged. Getting a Gen 4 ECU off is often a sketch as the lower M4 screw rots in the case and easily snaps off flush. Getting the broken piece out is very tricky as there is no inline access so I get a specialist to come out and remove it. We always fit a new pump anyway and replace the filter (which VAG refuse to admit is there). The important point is to throughly blow the system out with brake cleaner and compressed air as it gets full of disgusting goo.

The main difference between an e-tec and non- e-tec vehicle are: - starter generator instead of traditional generator - additional 48V battery under the front passenger seat. The starter generator feeds from and into 48V battery and it's used to: - Start the engine - Provide a small amount of additional power to supplement internal combustion engine when the car starts to move. The benefit of this setup is that you have a marginal improvement in fuel economy and much better engine start / stop experience. The latter is actually pretty impressive. You can't feel the engine turning on or off. In normal and eco mode the car does it all the time - when braking for traffic light, coasting down the hill or simply stopping for whatever reason. There is no noise, no vibrations. Feel like magic compared to my previous vehicle with Start/Stop which I had to deactivate as it was extremely irritating. One additional interesting feature I noticed is enhanced engine/generator braking in my car. When coming to roundabout or traffic light with car before you and lifting the gas pedal, the car starts to very noticeably slow down using a combination of engine and generator. The effect is not as strong as in electric vehicles with recuperation, but I find it quite handy. Should save some brake pads wear and tear. This might require SatNav and adaptive cruise control to work so that the car is aware of it's surroundings. Finally on the fuel economy. My long term average so far in two months since delivery is 6.7 l/100 km. About 1/3 town and 2/3 highway. Last weekend I went to a national park. The route there was mainly highway with 90-120 km/h speed mode. Almost fully on ACC. That gave me a very impressive 4.7 l/100 km.