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My local car shop now mostly stocks morris oils ,which ive been using for past few years ,well priced and correct spec for my octy vrs tsi ,and i believe its british stuff ,as george says does branding make any difference ,i doubt it apart from the price

Update... After telling me in writing that the car engine cover will not be provided, this week I was given one to conclude the safety recall.

German.

Take a look at OBDeleven. Far more affordable than VCDS and 80% of the functions. Make sure to go for pro version and ignore the inbuilt apps. There are stories of the apps breaking things and they don't keep a record of changes. Coding changes via pro yourself keeps a record, at least it did last time I made significant changes.

Fuchs oil UK ltd. Quantum oils as used by Skoda Dealers and supplied by TPS is fine. I doubt many companies are UK owned. To VW 508 00 / 509 00 so the 0w 20 FS IV for fixed or variable oil and filter cha Or as we were VW 504 00 / 507 00, 0w 30 FS III, or 5w 30 FS III. Fixed service could be VW502 00. 5w 40 FS. But Skoda UK never shows this now. Brand might as well be Asda or Tesco as long as to the spec. It comes from synthetic oil producers.

Don't do it yourself - first off, you probably have a leak from an old seal or pipe junction, or damage to the radiator, which is why you lost refrigerant. This needs checking before you blow more gases into the atmosphere. Second, you need to be sure you have the refrigerant/oil mix right. Third, you probably need a new desiccator to be fitted.

As said earlier, get a fault code scan done - I'd be surprised if at least one of the ABS wheel speed sensors is showing a fault code.

It's actually not.

I think the 1.5 TSI Karoq DSG is great for relaxed economic motoring. My current avg is 51 Mpg on my 10 mile commute and around 55-60 Mpg on A road and motorway journey keeping up with free-flowing traffic. Generally it's a very smooth and quiet motor but a bit raucous when kicking-down under full acceleration. I find it's much safer and smoother to use the steering wheel paddles to drop a gear to overtake as kickdown is slow and can drop down 2 gears. It has sufficient torque in 6th or 7th year to build speed quickly from around 50 Mph.

If going for different offset go for a smaller number. A higher number will push the wheel towards the suspension particularly if going for a wider rim.

I'm mixing up Fuchs/Silkolene with Motul - Siilkolene (fork oil) for the LA dampers and Motul for IIRC a mate's gearbox, it was the Motul stand I went to. I should have remembered that Fuchs sounds German but was thinking of more of Silkolene. A lot of these company names go back to UK starts but of course sooner or later UK no more. This often happens when I go by my memory alone, I balls it up but I never worry as I soon forget I balls'd it up and probably repeat the same mistake again - but I won't remember that, again. 😆

If you go used, especially nearly new, you'll probably find the SE is quite rare. Far more SEL's available.

Karoq colours.

Graphite Grey?

If you struggle back wise I find heated seats are worth every penny.

😁😁😁 Plastic trim "pry" tools, it will come off a lot easier now its lost its virginity! I would go with the silicone, its only a tell tale for the driver to show it is working, I doubt that any of us look at it while indicating when driving. As its at the bottom I would leave a weep hole and if the missing part is not too big maybe not do anything at all.

A déséquilibrage (whatever that is in English) detector. It might have triggered if all 4 tyres continued their equal deflation, there is no other road speed indication to compare the wheel speeds to and the TPMS system has to cope with more than a 10psi variation when tyres are inflated to the laden settings. Who knows? Yes looking at what I wrote they were contradictory statements. The truth is out there somewhere!

Well, given your present use case, I'd have no hesitation in using Miller oil to the correct VAG spec.

That one was literally just around the corner from where I live. Whilst there’s no doubt it’s a sad event and the family are lucky to be with us until the actual cause is identified then it’s only supposition the incident was caused by the high voltage battery in this HEV. Many fires in all sorts of different vehicles are caused by faulty 12v electrics.

Who knows who is really in bed with who, as long as us servants and nature doesn't stop their profits all is fine. It's like "Spoons" are one of the biggest food buyers and suppliers in retail, I remember a mate saying he went in and they'd took steak off the menu at very short notice - very soon after that on the telly was something about horsemeat as if that'd affect the general "Spoons" clientele, as long as it was cheap and you got a drink included. A number of years back we went in a "Spoons" to kill 10 minutes waiting for our driver to arrive, we had two halves of one of their regular ales and having a brass neck I asked if I could use the 50p-off-a pint token, lady behind the bar said "yes", for a laugh I said what about two tokens for the two ales and she said "yes", when I asked how much she now wanted she said 29p, I felt a bit embarrassed but also like a true "Spoons" customer and a lot, lot nearer retirement age.

In that test the 80 'C were in the cavity between the fuel injectors, it's few cm below the Heat Shield covered area (on the top of that area are the 60 'C measurement).

Fuch (and the other name they used to use) offered to sponsor our car club last time I was at the NEC and enquiring about their oils (for Armstrong lever-arm dampers IIRC or oil for a mate) and the chap told me the company was owned by a French lady. I do know a little about marketing, sales, advertising and costings and pricing and certainly old enough to know what's suggested or most popular isn't always the best. Comma covers a lot of brands and brand names, Brazil IIRC. Morris oils is an old name IIRC, favoured a lot by some of those with old over-valued, over-priced cars called "classics". There are so many oil beliefs and some people have favourite brands or brand names which is fine as a good oil is a good oil (and a better oil is better) and unless it's counterfeit or a garage or mechanic has ben up to some shenanigans there no bad oils as long as suitable for purpose, some might be more suitable. The oils can only help with the engine they can't overcome the ancient legacy, design and build compromises and mistakes. We all all lucky with have German engineering. 😁 As for the German and VW numbered coolants, well . . . ya gotta laff.

I personally did the splitting beneath the C pillar interior trims.

So it is the VW Group and for decades it was a CASTROL sticker, and a bottle of CASTROL oil, and dealers using Quantum. German Engines be it BMW, VW Group, Daimler Benz (maybe a Renault Engine) are about the worst out of warranty for a premature demise. French Manufacturers might recommend Total, Japanese MOBILE. I am happy with COMMA,s engine and other oils,. He who has the biggest Advertising Budget or Manufacturers recommendation need not be the best, maybe sometimes just more expensive for the general buying public. Like Tyres VW Group use. Have Pulling to the left and they might blame Dunlop or Continental, funny thing is that never stops them using them. With the Mk3 1.4 TDI 3 Cylinder Water Pump failures they blamed the Coolant. The Coolant the procured.

You need to join the signal wires from all four of the rear light modules (according to the diagrams here) into a single one and lead that one to BCM.

You would probably have to pay a lot more to get an appropriate level TopDon (or others similar) and then possibly have to pay extra for extra service stuff (battery checking, keys). TopDon (or other similar) are just the brands their models in their ranges can vary a lot as to how good they are depending on what level you want to work to with them (don't believe every bit of advertising for them check on the manufacturers website, models used to change quickly. To me the VCDS look awful, legacy, nerdy, something from the 1990s but many like them and they are based on what VW used to use and of course for VW will be very specific. If you buy one and then go on to Mercs (frying pan to fire to me) I'm sure you'd have an easy s/h sale of the VCDS if you wanted. Have a look and/or ask on the 'Diagnostics & VCDS' forum for info on VCDS and possibly TopDon (and other similar). - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/23-diagnostics-amp-vcds/ Whichever scanner you get it's important to make you you keep it up to date with updates before you use it otherwise you might get incorrect results, many (particularly mechanic or electricians) are too lazy (or don't know) to do this, don't be one of them. HTH.

Front ones are just about visible if you open the sun roof and stand on the sill but you don't see much. The exits are easy to see when the front doors are open. Rears are not visible. Water coming out each side of the rear is the best check for a blocked drain. On the scooby front we may have crossed paths if you were SIDC active around 1999-2001. I attended most of the meets/functions/trackdays during that period.

On the drainholes - are they visible from the sunroof end or only where they exit? OK - just one Scooby pic 🙂 Mine's on the right. The other is another SIDC member I met up with for the pic.

Oh - found a November 2016 brochure with the Sportline spec... Skoda-Superb-Range-2016-UK.pdf

I think that problem was common on the earlier TSI engined MkII model. The MkIII onwards TSl can have issues with a weeping water pump, so ask if it's been changed , check the coolant bottle water level along with routine service including DSG fluid change, if it's fitted. It's a great engine, very smooth.

Never, probably. More likely to continue to get worse (cheaper, lighter, thinner, painted with more environmentally friendly paint).

You dont need to change your crash signal because it is already set at 139

Not available on SWMBOs Mk3 SE-L Fabia either, ignition needs to be on.

And all these years I have not taken a holiday because I thought it was against the law! Joking aside, connecting and setting in motion an automated AC recharge unit does not require an F gas qualification, that is their USP, the operator does not manipulate the refrigerant gas at any time. Removal of the recovery cylinder from the unit for recycling does even though it is no more complicated than changing a Calor gas bottle on a caravan.

If it's just a touch-up pen, try your fiendly Skoda main stealer with the chassis number.

Yeti DIY Electric Tailgate https://youtube.com/shorts/CKJKKoxQWjA?feature=shared

My new-to-me Fabia has just had work done involving the evap canister. Apparently, under normal use, it should last the life of the vehicle. If the owner is in the habit of overfilling the tank, instead of petrol fumes, the charcoal becomes soaked in liquid petrol which is difficult to purge. The trick is to avoid overfilling ie trying to get more in beyond the first click. The check engine light came on during my test ride! Yet I still bought it! you are right to question my sanity.

To be honest, I think the common practice for battery heating/cooling is a seperate water circuit rather than using the AC or cool air directly, if you look at a Telsa battery pack being removed you see the water connections. It does make it an almost idiotproof procedure though and pretty well priced considering how much a can of 'top up' is.

I agree 100% with this, I too purchased Sygic, lifetime for small money. Also purchased Carista when is was in its early stages,. lifetime also.

AC in EV's also have a different oil/lubricant in the system. Thanks. AG Falco

Parkers? Enter reg for spec? Not sure how accurate it is https://www.parkers.co.uk/skoda/superb/hatchback-2015/sportline-20-tdi-150ps-5d/specs/

Do you have a dashcam in your windscreen? Sometimes the light from those can prevent the mirror dimming.

Yes, the best way for the lowest reading unless the car has been standing in direct sunlight. On recirc the temperature will continue dropping until either the AC can no longer overcome the radiant heat gain or the evaporator temp drops below IIRC minus 4°c. A couple of minutes should be enough to get a sensible reading, garages dont waste much time waiting.

Temperature measured where? At the air vents or the evaporator temp sensor reading from VCDS? Ambient minus 10° c at the vents when we had 43° here in 2002 wont please many! Air vent temps may be corrupted by sticking airflow flaps, when ambient temps have been around 20° C I have observed the evaporator temp drop to 2°c but after 20 minutes or so. I trust the gauge readings and the law of conservation of energy over anything else!

I agree with mccririck. Factory fitted goodyears were the most noisy tires I ever got, despite having lower dB value than others. Basically tire noise and tire performance are always about combination of particular tires with particular car. Even the same tire models but in just a different size perform and sound differently on the same car model.

Test them all on your car with a decibel meter inside.

You can't tell. Cabin noise is mostly noise transmitted through the tire into the chassis. External noise is not. Tyres which make a lot of external noise can actually be quieter inside.

Decibel rating on tyres is for external noise not cabin noise

The main difference between an e-tec and non- e-tec vehicle are: - starter generator instead of traditional generator - additional 48V battery under the front passenger seat. The starter generator feeds from and into 48V battery and it's used to: - Start the engine - Provide a small amount of additional power to supplement internal combustion engine when the car starts to move. The benefit of this setup is that you have a marginal improvement in fuel economy and much better engine start / stop experience. The latter is actually pretty impressive. You can't feel the engine turning on or off. In normal and eco mode the car does it all the time - when braking for traffic light, coasting down the hill or simply stopping for whatever reason. There is no noise, no vibrations. Feel like magic compared to my previous vehicle with Start/Stop which I had to deactivate as it was extremely irritating. One additional interesting feature I noticed is enhanced engine/generator braking in my car. When coming to roundabout or traffic light with car before you and lifting the gas pedal, the car starts to very noticeably slow down using a combination of engine and generator. The effect is not as strong as in electric vehicles with recuperation, but I find it quite handy. Should save some brake pads wear and tear. This might require SatNav and adaptive cruise control to work so that the car is aware of it's surroundings. Finally on the fuel economy. My long term average so far in two months since delivery is 6.7 l/100 km. About 1/3 town and 2/3 highway. Last weekend I went to a national park. The route there was mainly highway with 90-120 km/h speed mode. Almost fully on ACC. That gave me a very impressive 4.7 l/100 km.

Lots of folk will chime in with "they're stretch bolts, you can tell because they quote torque plus angle" etc. but I think that's almost entirely not the real reasoning. In reality, it's about the loss of accuracy when tightening used, often corroded fasteners. Even with the superior accuracy of torque plus angle, the initial torque stage is heavily dominated by friction in terms of how much of the applied torque is converted to tension in the bolt. So corroded fasteners will get to this initial torque earlier than they should, meaning the final angle tigthening will not result in the designed pre-tension. Bolts that come loose are potentially dangerous; Skoda won't risk that originating in their workshops, so specify replacement anywhere where a dangerous outcome could occur if it happened.