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After 9 months finally got this view for my Superb 2015 1. Steering wheel 2. MIB 2 -> 2.5 convertion 3. Gateway 5Q0 -> 3Q0907530AC 4. And now I've installed AID

It's with a heavy heart I have to say I'm no longer a Skoda owner. After 9.5 fabulous years my 2014 Skoda Superb 1.4tsi mkII is under new ownership. Now I'm retired we've been trying to downsize to one car and even though Mrs BJ loved being a passenger she found the Superb too big to drive. The recent Octavia was ruled out as basic functions such as heating etc were on the touch screen. The Scala was considered but I was worried about the long list of comments re issues with the infotainment/screen/SOS and even though it's reasonable the boot isn't quite big enough for going camping etc which strangely we've got back into in our old age now retired. I ended up buying a very nearly new Suzuki Swace (26 miles on the clock - Toyota Corolla hybrid in drag) for a stonking deal as in 2025 Suzuki are reducing the range of cars to SUV's (no thanks) and electric only cars (not yet?) due to the manufacturer fines being introduced re % of electric cars. I've had the Swace a few days now and am still getting used to it - just had my first long trip away. Economy - wow!! although petrol tank is smallish. Boot is fabulous, the compromise is rear passenger space compared to the Superb but these days it's mainly just two of us. However the Superb will be missed.

Spent most of the last three days tapping on the kitchen window 😁

Yes the update must go on skoda card ,other card is for music files i believe .

You have to apply the update to the Skoda card. It has a security partition on it.

30Nm, careful because a lot of torque wrenches won't be accurate that low. The plugs should be pre-gapped when purchased.

I have had limited mileage policies on the MX5 for ages... There is usually a tolerance of a few hundred mes but some insurers also look at the average over the past few years so if your under one year you can go over the next. They sometimes ask re odometer mileage but also often look at MOT records

What trim level is it? SE and SEL Didn't get virtual cockpit until 2024. It was part of a optional Amundsen Plus Pack. They do get a smaller digital dash as standard.

Has it unlocked? There's a fair few threads on here about stuck actuators. It seems there is no emergency release so its a case of keep locking / unlocking till it frees (possibly while pushing on the flap) or a bit of brute force. There's more if you search for Fuel Flap Actuator but I expect they all say similar.

Technically it's cheating, but this is my loaner Octavia whilst I'm fixing me Superb. Octavia 1.9TDI PD Mapped to 130 ! 3.8L/100KM or 74.33MPG The best I've got.so far, in the same journey is 4.9L/100KM or 57.65MPG

It’s been a while 😳 the car has been through a lot, now running 365bhp/ftlbs on a K04and mapped at badger 5, engine bay looks less OEM to help get some power, and loose some of the newly generated heat, I’ve been to the ring in it, done a few days out, it drives absolutely spot on, it launches savage with the DSG box, and on a whole it’s been fairly faultless 😬 the grip is phenomenal in comparison, esp on exit of corners, it just puts power down with no hassle. Sorry I haven’t been very active on here, I’ve been off forums for a while now, family and life in general are half the reason, and unfortunately face book as it’s where a lot of stuff has migrated as much as I despair as forums are a brilliant place full of info and knowledge. A bit later on I’ll try to get some pics up, it’s been a journey, I just tried to upload 25 photos but computer said no, I forgot some of the stuff I’ve been through on the way 🤣🤣

Best MPG I’ve had in the 280. Surbiton to the Stena line port at Birkenhead plus one stop on the M6 Toll.

I've just fitted this throttle controller to my Mk4. I had one on a previous vehicle with the same transforming result I'm now getting with the Octavia, knife sharp acceleration right through the band. It's a real game changer. https://www.ultimate9.co/news/blog-what-is-the-evc/

As promised, some photos of the journey, like finishing the k04 install in the middle of the nights after my boy was born as it was the only time i could run off to the garage 🤣 Load of other bits like having the AWD box leak fluid like the 2wd box did, finding out that it was due to a crate engine being fitted in 2014 and not having a spigot bearing installed 🤣 Which then led to the K04 install whilst I had the box off, failing mapping first time round when we couldn’t get enough fuel into the engine. Oh and finding out just before I left to go the ring that the oil sensor had let go and was leaking oil onto the aux belt for the whole 1500 mile trip until part of the belt frayed and took the sensor wiring out 20 mins after getting off the train coming back home leaving me to bodge it to get me home, luckily it was the high pressure sensor so I had upto 2-3k before it had a fit and went into limp mode 🤣 oh don’t leave your windows open when doing doughnuts on the grass 🤣🤣 and I found out that AWD puts a lot more stress and heat on everything, I kept getting gearbox hot message on the the dash whilst going round the ring, so this got addressed. It’s been a really good rollercoaster, and the car is where I want it now, gearbox and engine oil coolers help massively with temps when giving it beans, I had to do a battery relocation to fit the new air filter as I went quite large 🤣 when I went for my first mapping session I got told it may be struggling to breath a little, so went with the biggest filter I could fit with a custom inlet pipework for it,and the only mods I'm looking at now is probably bigger brakes over the 340mm ones I have currently, and a 3.5” track slag downpipe, then the rest is software, like map switching and hard cut limiter on launch and in neutral, these ECU’s don’t have much info out there as they aren’t overly poplar, so it involves lots of trawling and trial and error 🤣

Hi all, this is my Citigo Monte Carlo 2016 build, which I collected a week ago. It had 31,000 miles on the odometer. It replaced a white 2013 Citigo Greentech which I put about 6,000 miles on it. The 1" bigger alloys certainly made the difference in its ride. I am very pleased with it so far, and I hope to keep it as long as I can. I have a few body modifications in mind for it.

My first Skoda was a 2005 Mk1 Superb 😎 G

I had one a few years ago, it had K04 conversion, manual. It was so much fun to drive, had a quaife LSD to help put the power down. I was considering a RS3 engine swap before I decided to sell it and buy a MK3 Superb.

Hi! Spent few months troubleshooting my car with this P0441 error - first I tried replacing the valve assembly (by the way, if someone is looking for 05E906517A - this has a new part number now which is 05E133366AN). Changing valve and sensor assembly did nothing, error kept popping up after one day of error reset. I returned this part back to the shop and installed old assembly. What fixed my error was replacing charcoal canister (part 5WA201801). It is located in rear-right wheel well. Bottom connector was very hard to disconnect, spent 1-2 hours with my mates and ended up brutforcing the clip out breaking it. Attached back with ziptie Now 4 weeks passed, error not coming back. My car is: Q2 1.5 R4110 DSG, 2020, GABAZG, DPCA, UAG

I think the Orange just about works on a Karoq Sportline but not SEL or SE Drive. The new Fabia looks great though. I've been considering swapping our 1.0 Race Blue Fabia for a 1.5 Orange Fabia

Hi there, i have finally removed the airbag light and cleaned its socket with contact cleaner. Also changed the footwell light. Deleted the errors and its been 10days no errors thanks

Same orange for Audi I think is Samoa Orange. My TT is 10 years old now and still looks good and there's not too much orange! I agree that it depends on the car. I think on an SUV it's too much but on a Fabia, especially a Colour Edition with the black roof it looks good. We have a Fabia coming soon which is in Race Blue which is nice and bright.

"http://skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns" Nothing on there for my car's VIN number, yet the dealer says that there is an update due.

Pre gapped when purchased. But still check the gap of each. Just incase some person already had it out of the box and took off the protective tubs and knocked it. Or you do before fitting. Not uncommon.

Any grease at hand is fine for the parts in the pic....

Has this been resprayed at some point? It would certainly explain this and the excessive stone chips you’ve mentioned

Active Info Display = Virtual Cockpit 🙂

Have you confirmed the pump is getting a supply voltage and isn't running? There is no point in doing anything else until you have ascertained these points.

Had a good run with the Superb then 👍 I'm recently-ish retired too, and should really come down to one car, but Mrs Gaz isn't interested in driving the V70, and I'm not ready to give up my Golf yet. All the best for many happy miles in the Swace. Gaz

Doesn’t have to be vids but you will need a diagnostic tool to wind back the electric parking brake.

Thanks. Please make sure u don't put different sized tyres between the front and rear!! All 4 must b the same.

Thanks mate. Will give one a go and there's sale going. I found modulating the throttle a bit frustrating at times coming from my other cars.

No, mine is a Style 1.4TSI. It doesn't matter which engine variant you have, the electronic throttle lag will be the same - a split second delay in the 'communication' between the pedal sensor and the throttle body. It can't / won't change the engine's hp output, but it provides all the available power to the pedal instantly, the zero delay makes for very sharp acceleration. You have to play around with the settings, I find U2 is the sweet spot for mine, enough to take the edge off. U9 for example would be a 'back to the future' experience, way too fierce! BTW if you decide to give one a go, shop around, no need to pay full RRP.

Yes I agree. I noticed something else tonight. While I was set the air vents to the footwell air flaps I was getting air also from the left and right side vents although on the infotainment screen menu the graphic representation of the airflow showed that the air is going only to footwell vents!! So it must be the air flap mixing problem here for sure.

I normally take white grease as being a lithium based grease which I believed is for metal on metal surfaces and not the plastic/nylon surfaces I can see in the gear stick assembly. I think that the silicone grease I have is also a white colour and it's applications seems to be plastic to other materials. There is definitely some notchiness in the left <> right action and the gear stick does not self centre, not had the chance to look under the bonnet yet. Adrian

So just to wrap this up. Had a TowTrust detachable bar fitted yesterday. £740 with 13 pin vehicle specific wiring and fully coded. Nice neat job. Took the van out with the bear last night and have to say it’s an absolute joy to tow with. heading to Wales for a week on Monday, looking forward to the drive.

Yes if you have a drive mode button and put it onto individual you can set air con to normal or eco. Also the plug A on the condenser can be faulty from factory so there is and update for plug and seals.

I was just about to put this! I know some cars don't always have this option but in driver modes I can set my air con to economy or normal.

Thanks for the replies - both helpful. In the end I did what you both suggested, which was essentially just to consider what the specific extras were worth to me personally rather than some generic valuation, and on that basis went ahead and bought the car at a slight discount to the asking price but still above the price suggested by the valuation sites. I wanted a Kodiaq vRS with certain must-have accessories and some nice-to-have accessories, this one fit the spec and in the end I placed a premium on finding exactly what I wanted and finding it now, instead of waiting for the same spec to come up again at a later date and at a lower price. So I'm now the new owner of a lovely grey '22 Kodiaq vRS! Off to France in a couple weeks and looking forward to some longer drives in it!

A 10mm spanner would be for a 6mm thread - maybe m6 x 14mm is what you need?

The key thing is the after evaporator temperature, 5.7°c with an outside air temp of 40°c is excellent, putting the fan on high increased it to 25°c confirming your thoughts that the system does not have enough power to cope with the refrigeration demand on full blower setting. That could indicate a low refrigerant charge but I think that your pressure is correct, the stupid VAG/VCDS set up reports absolute pressure and not gauge pressure so you can deduct 1 bar/15psi from your figures, the figures that you have read on Youtube are almost certainly for an ambient temperature of 20°c. R134a static system pressure (guage pressure not absolute pressure) will rise from 70psi at 20°c to 130psi at 40°c, the high side pressure when system running with an ambient temperature of 40°c will be between 180 and 225psi, that is a figure to cover all vehicles and the variable output VAG type with the modulating valve will be lower than this unless under maximum load, my gauge measurements at 20°c vehicle idling at standstill show the high side pressure rising to 150psi at which point the fans cut in and it drops to 100psi, this falls within the range given on the R134a tables of 100-150psi at 20°c. Are the fans running correctly on your vehicle? Your system will never have enough power to cool your car right down when idling with 40°c ambient temperature, if you look at the figures the air coming out of the vents has dropped by over 25°c at the lower fan setting, aside from the sticking flap mixing hot air to the left vents I say your system is working perfectly, it was designed for average European temperatures probably biased towards the cooler countries. If you want maximum cooling on maximum fan speed you need to drive the car at speed. Most of us have gradually worked these things out, we know high fan speeds at standstill create less cooling, when my car has stood in the sun I leave the windows open initially, use the AC on min temp and fan speed 1, once moving I will switch up to fan speed 2 and close the windows, when the interior temp has dropped enough I will switch to recirculation mode and put the fan on the highest setting. I think you are expecting too much of your system and have a problem with the blending flap for the left hand side.

I'd be replacing the battery before anything else, you can't diagnose modern car properly with a good voltage! You will have all sorts of communication codes, you won't know where to start or start looking at the wrong stuff.

New washer bottle cap in the style of the later Skodas with the built in funnel but found a black one 😁 also took dash apart a little to fit dashcam as I don’t like the wires visible where possible just required a little hole drilled under climatronic panel that will never been seen to feed wire through

Could possibly be two things together or separately, something is draining your battery and/or your battery though showing as fully charged is not really fully charged and the charge is only as full as it can get but not fully charged. If a plate(s) are still sulphated or perhaps buckled then that will reduce what the battery is capable of. Did you remove the plugs to each of the 6 cells to check the electrolyte "water" levels on each cell and top up as required before charging the battery, did you also check to see if each cell looked buckled or sulphated or just take what a battery charger or tester told you. Did you take a voltage reading with your multimeter directly on the battery terminals on the battery out of the car or when fitted to the car 24-48 hours after chagrining the battery. What were the voltage readings immediately after stopping the battery charging and again 24-48 hours later. Just starting the car to move it and back again, to cut the grass, does the battery, the engine and the car no favours at all.

That Comment which the service guy made does look to be correct, according to the Cam Belt Guidance change which I picked up from a member on these Forums... So much conflicting information about this - it's mind boggling...Worth a read though.. HTH Cam Belt Guidance change (1).pdf

I've posted in another post about a fault code P26F6 , turns out that this was the additional 'rear' water cooler pump or V488 that you quoted that was at fault. Yesterday TPS sent the wrong one to the garage and didn't have a clue how to get find out the correct one so the garage removed the pump ( it takes 2 mins ) and quoted the part number, think it works out at 170 odd quid plus vat which is absolutely scandalous, however I had to put it back on and arranged to go back to get it done but the mil late has stayed off since taking it off and on, was it just a connection issue? Might wait to see now...but apparently a very common fault on these . This has done nearly 290k with very little issues. Re Cambelt: different for me as this car is a workhourse but I change mine every 60k regardless of what anyone says, if you ever have a cambelt snap on you you will know why !!

British Leyland? Really..?

Been to Marshalls Harlow once for extended scope service and the chap(s) there managed to put on the service sheets my spare tyre thread depth. Problem is I don't have a spare tyre... None. Incredible sorcery.

That's what I had to do to reset the one-touch windows on my 2015 Octavia.

That's true, they are roasting😆, but not anymore, in 4 years I didn't find in any coding list something about seat heating. But that's why we have briskoda🥰

Find someone with VCDS or similar tool. Go to 09 Central Electronics / Security Access: 31347 / Adaptations. You can change these settings. Stufe 1-3-5 is for driver's seat level 1-2-3. Stufe 2-4-6 is for the passenger's seat level 1-2-3 IDE06089-ENG115738-Seat heater level current consumption allocation-Sitzheizung Stufe 1 obere Schaltschwelle,33.00 °C,30 IDE06089-ENG115737-Seat heater level current consumption allocation-Sitzheizung Stufe 1 untere Schaltschwelle,32.00 °C,30 IDE06089-ENG115740-Seat heater level current consumption allocation-Sitzheizung Stufe 2 obere Schaltschwelle,33.00 °C,30 IDE06089-ENG115739-Seat heater level current consumption allocation-Sitzheizung Stufe 2 untere Schaltschwelle,32.00 °C,30 IDE06089-ENG115742-Seat heater level current consumption allocation-Sitzheizung Stufe 3 obere Schaltschwelle,37.50 °C,30 IDE06089-ENG115741-Seat heater level current consumption allocation-Sitzheizung Stufe 3 untere Schaltschwelle,36.50 °C,30 IDE06089-ENG115744-Seat heater level current consumption allocation-Sitzheizung Stufe 4 obere Schaltschwelle,37.50 °C,30 IDE06089-ENG115743-Seat heater level current consumption allocation-Sitzheizung Stufe 4 untere Schaltschwelle,36.50 °C,30 IDE06089-ENG115746-Seat heater level current consumption allocation-Sitzheizung Stufe 5 obere Schaltschwelle,41.00 °C,30 IDE06089-ENG115745-Seat heater level current consumption allocation-Sitzheizung Stufe 5 untere Schaltschwelle,40.00 °C,30 IDE06089-ENG115748-Seat heater level current consumption allocation-Sitzheizung Stufe 6 obere Schaltschwelle,41.00 °C,30 IDE06089-ENG115747-Seat heater level current consumption allocation-Sitzheizung Stufe 6 untere Schaltschwelle,40.00 °C,30 These are my settings (also with alcantara seats) for driver/passanger level 1: channel IDE06089-ENG115738-Seat heater level current consumption allocation-Sitzheizung Stufe 1 obere Schaltschwelle adapted from 33.00 °C to 21.00 °C channel IDE06089-ENG115737-Seat heater level current consumption allocation-Sitzheizung Stufe 1 untere Schaltschwelle adapted from 32.00 °C to 20.00 °C channel IDE06089-ENG115740-Seat heater level current consumption allocation-Sitzheizung Stufe 2 obere Schaltschwelle adapted from 33.00 °C to 21.00 °C channel IDE06089-ENG115739-Seat heater level current consumption allocation-Sitzheizung Stufe 2 untere Schaltschwelle adapted from 32.00 °C to 20.00 °C After some experimenting I finally set these values for 'always on'. I didn't bother changing level 2 & 3 because I never use them. The seat heats up quickly enough (for me) even with these settings. And I can leave it on for the whole winter. The seat gets just as 'hot' as you can warm it up with your body (with no heating). You can also consider switching on the 'memory function" so you don't need to activate the seat heating manually on every start: Module 08 / Adaptations channel IDE01067-Retention of driver's seat heater level adapted from active for 10 minutes to active