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A few from driffield steam fair today

Here are your two links. There's no need to include all the characters from the question mark (and including the question mark) because the shortened versions still take you to the same webpages. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/166908147442 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/404611200470 You can purchase the Fabia MK4 foam and jack kit from any VAG parts department by quoting OEM part number 6VA093860A. It's got to be better than a generic kit because VAG designed it especially for the car. The usual spare wheel to use with this kit is a 185/65R15 tyre fitted to a 5.5Jx15 ET40 5/100 57.1 steel rim. Foam and jack kit 6VA093860A (for Fabia MK4) (includes everything except for the actual spare wheel) https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/sada-pro-vymenu-rezervniho-kola-15/p/6VA093860A Alcar 4055 5.5Jx15 ET40 5/100 57.1 steel rim (6.60kg) (for Fabia MK4) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rims/details?vehicleId=1360399348768339044&rimCode=ALCAR4055

Many thanks to you all for the helpful advice, I have it sorted now. I was misunderstanding that I had to turn off wifi on my phone when actually what was meant, was to actually select my Skoda wifi network and then select "Forget this Network" All good now and thank you to everyone.

Not unmodded, but proper decent, lovely even, IMO: Gaz

Spotted a few Woodpeckers today (& some late Ducklings).........

1. In my experience dry windscreen does indeed make the wipers move slower. What you have shown is comparable to how it is on my car, when the windscreen is dry. I do agree that the wiper blades generally move slower than on cars from some other brands. 2. Wouldn't worry about it.

We leave our Karoq on our driveway for up to 2 months at a time as we spend time away in France. No issue starting on return.

The parts catalogue/diagram for the bodywork/chassis parts of the front end (all mk2 Octys for 2007) are HERE and the plastic and bracket parts of the 2007 RS front bumper are HERE. As far as I'm aware the 'pedestrian protection' elements are from the bumper mouldings. The underframe looks to be shaped to protect the cooling system and the front of the motor.

No. Use a smart charger suitable for your stop/start battery and check how to connect it to the car. Don't use the Negative terminal! Thanks. AG Falco

I thought the Hyundai Kona ev charging point was in the grill at the front?

Simple answer is you don't need to. Just don't connect phone to car via wifi and carplay works fine.

lanrally, the solution is there from logiclee. My Superb did the same thing, with an iPhone just forget/delete the cars WiFi network from your phone and everything will work via Bluetooth using your phone data.

So.... Jayemm really likes the Octy

Fault is more likely to be caused by fractured wiring in the door loop than poor connections. Sounds 100% like that.

Dont go out with that bird again ,muck cow 😂

You say you have checked the wiring in the door, but have you checked the wiring to the plugs on the A-pillar? That sounds like classic Fabia issue.

Bad news I'm afraid, garage noticed it smoking starting cold (haven't seen that myself but hey), diagnosed oil getting into the cylinders and being burned along with the oil. Verdict - an economic write-off. Sending a letter via recorded delivery to the dealer on Monday detailing that the car was not of "sufficient quality" as per the CAB's instructions. Dealer is assumed to have known about any such issue at point of sale otherwise the duty is on them to prove otherwise (which they can't). Mechanic's opinion was that the MOT emissions test was fudged as there was no way it would have got through it legally. Gutted because I very much liked the car and it's an invisible issue, the car still drives, the engine still picks up. But in reality it's a goner. If I get a full refund, it will include miles driven since purchase being taken off the final repayment, quite irritatingly somewhat greater than the 400 or so that I'd clocked up the first time I took it into a garage and they obsessed about the steering wheel coding and didn't look at the issue with the engine itself. But then again, you're supposed to live and learn. I just seem to learn! Thank you for all your help on here, it's been incredibly helpful and I appreciate it massively. I'm just absolutely gutted.

Did you try driving the car during any of this testing? Sometimes you just need to start up and set off down the road before these systems reset themselves after a fault is rectified.

January this year. It is nearly a year since i last used that chargers.

Hi from Northampton, UK. After 15 years with a faithful 04 reg Volvo V70 2.5 diesel we're just moving to a 2018 Octavia petrol estate. The Volvo claims sentimental attachment after all that time, its engine is still running wonderfully at nearly 273k miles, and it tows our little caravan (under 1000kg) up hills with no botherm but we've been reluctantly thinking for a couple of years it was getting time to switch to petrol rather than emitting all those diesel fumes in towns, while not entering ULEZ zones here or an increasing number of areas when we go to France with our black Crit'Air 4 sticker; then the car recently forced our decision by needing an expensive replacement steering rack. While the Octavia's 1.5 petrol engine won't have that amazing power, hopefully it'll still pull the 'van about, carry lots of stuff, and last well. In the few miles I've already driven I've realised it's certainly a lot quieter and lighter to drive, and very comfortable. I'm still learning how to work its newer technology, I certainly haven't got to grips with the infotainment screen yet, and doubtless I'll be asking cringe-worthily naive questions about it, especially once the tow-hook's fitted with its associated electrics, but for now, hi and thanks for having me.

Update, took another one out and had similar although less pronounced , the first car was Apr 2023 with 2.5k miles, so had been sat around a lot, in the end went for one that was March 2024 with 6k miles. Couple of other weird things I wanted to know whether were normal or not, but will start another thread for those Thanks for all the comments

I too would have recommended a CTEK charger to maintain the battery, but if mains power is an issue then have you considered a solar trickle charger for example ProPlus Solar trickle charger 12V 1,5W | Euro Car Parts there are plenty of other makes around. The option to remove the battery and put it on a trickle charge in doors is probably not a good ide given modern cars dont like not having a battery connected. Another option is to buy a battery boost pack which can be charged up elsewhere and used to top the battery up periodically without needing a mains power lead. Must be so disappointing to have a new Karoq sitting there and unable to use it. The advice to have the bonnet left open, being ultra cautious myself I would leave it unlocked with a window partially open bit only if your garage is secure.

As a precaution, store it locked but with the bonnet popped (able to open but not lifted). Then if there is an issue you can easily get to the battery terminals without having use the emergency lock to get into the car and force the bonnet release leaver if you can’t get the passenger door unlocked and open. My car’s sitting like that at the mo as prob won’t be using it for a good while.

CTEK or similar, works for ours nicely for leaving the car in our garage for months (up to 5) at a time, however for a few weeks I wouldn’t bother if I know it’s had a reasonable run beforehand.

I picked the car up this morning. They told me they'd done 10 miles in it so are sure it's OK - car has done 30 miles in their care. They showed me a drawing which detailed the work (it looked like it was a TSB type of document, so it's obviously a recognised thing) and they have to grease around what looks like a nylon guide at the top of the piston that the piston rod goes through - apologies if this doesn't quite make sense, I thought they'd included the drawing in the docs folder but they didn't. They said under load the rod twists and creaks in this bush - I have said it's more of a chattering than a knock so this sounds feasible. It was fine on the drive home, including during the turn in to our village where it generally does it, although I was on my own. The acid test will be to try it with few people in. Now if I can just get them to fix the noisy a/c!

My seat was completely jammed in the rear with no access to the red hooks or any way of lifting the seat. I don't have time or patience to fiddle with screwdriver but managed to remove the seat easily enough using this method. Slide seat FORWARD so you have good sight of the runner mechanism. 2 bolts on the latch, and 2 on the other. Slide the latch off and the seat will detach by manually moving red hooks. You should then be able to manipulate the latch locking mechanism. In my case, it was seized

In my daughter's case, she kept the fob in her bag. She locked the car outside her friends house, but then her friend came out of the house with the dog to go for a quick walk, so she popped the boot open, put her bag in and slammed the boot shut.

Hi everyone my heater matrix needs replacing in my octavia I am wondering if anyone no's where I can get it replaced cheaper than £900 I have been quoted in the West midlands area please? I don't have the no how nor the time to do it myself so looking for recommendations if possible please thanks .

i will try harder going forward 😛

Yes they seemed ok as they part you from your money for a service,along wait to find a service slot

In a manual the mpg will be pretty much the same in all modes, just depends how you drive it. Sports mode will stiffen the steering, set the vaq diff (if you have it) so the highest setting, and stiffen the throttle response. It will also turn the soundaktor volume to full.

Update time - albeit a small update Finally found the right hub covers for the alloys I purchased. I knew I needed new alloys from the start as (see pics above) they were totaled and at at least $250 (around 125ukp) a piece to repair and then the near $1000 (500ukp) for the tyres, the budget didn't quite stretch to cover all of that so I went hunting on Facebook and other local selling sites for alloys that would fit. Found some (the one's on the car atm) for $400 (200ukp) with Bridgestone Potenza RE003's on them that had around 6-7mm of tread on them so enough to pass the roadworthy inspection. I had no hub caps though. Not thinking it through I just went and ordered some cheap things from Aliexpress thinking they would fit and of course they were too small. Measured the gap and ordered some more - too big this time. So I gave up initially and then realised that these alloy's were never sold on a Skoda so went hunting for the right car and thanks to Google Lens I found it - Audi S3. Once I found the right part number I ordered some BUT they would have either an Audi or VW badge on them. Thought ah well, just get the Audi one's and get some stick on Skoda badges and see if they will cover them. Well, they did once I removed the Audi symbol from the hub cover. Don't look too bad I reckon

Sounds like either a faulty door lock or a broken wire in the A pillar loom. Happy hunting.

Pagid’s UK exclusivity with ECP is detailed on their website.

Well... for anyone interested, the hose seems to have been improperly replaced at some point. The lower part (towards the front of the car) was coming loose as the metal ring had been put in backwards (so the metal teeth were not sitting in their grooves as they were pointing the wrong way) and was not securing the hose. Ring in place properly now and the hose is tight and as there is no movement during driving, it has stopped rubbing the brake fluid wiring and is no longer wearing through (plus the small oil leak from the improperly fitted end has stopped).

Open the front door remove the door open restrictor open door right up and then you can get at the pillar plug, realease the rubber seal and then realease the catch pull the plug out clean it with WD40 then apply a good layer of petrolium grease to the plug and reciever attch plug back in and re fit rubber seal if seal gets broken you cabn get them or at a last resort you can use part of a rubber glove that usually sorts out lots of issues

That's quite a difference. Online oils varied from €28 a litre upwards for this spec after I briefly looked. My mechanic said get the OE stuff.

Just used a trusty block of wood and a ruler to check the strut clearance on the front wheels. Current gap to strut is 38mm. Minus the 15mm spacer = 23mm. New wheels would be 6.5mm closer so a clearance of 16.5mm.

There's no timing or mileage link between DSG and Haldex service. DSG : every 40 or 80000 miles depending on which DSG model Haldex : every 3 years without mileage limit (though I think it should be the contrary). I've changed my DSG oil in 2021 (see my "How to guide", quoted above) and I'm about to do it next week again (120000 km on the clock). The DSG oil kit (incl filters ands seal washers) was almost at the same price around €105 (less than €10 difference between both in 3 years).

I think it's a common problem. When I bought mine, half of the speedo leds weren't working, then they came on for a minute, then went off. I have been gradually losing the leds on the whole binnacle since then. They still flash on and off occasionally, but mainly off. There are companies out there who specialise in repairing the binnacle, fitting new LEDS etc. I found one about an hour and a half away in Leicester, they repair the binnacle for about £185. Not going to bother with it now because I'm selling the car.

That's weird. I was looking up his channel yesterday and thinking I would contact him to review my standard but well equipped vRS....

'Shirley' was off that day at the Engineering meeting so what you have is what you have and that can be warnings.

@SpeedIsYourFriend Resetting the TPMS requires the car to be stationary ignition on. Always worth reading the Owners Manual. ? What does tyre pressures being fine mean? When where they last set at whatever pressure when cold, was the cold then the same as cold now in the summer? The warnings come as a different tyre circumference shows from the last time set. That can happen with a wheel sitting in the sun and getting hotter, or a brake binding or a bearing overheating. Basic stuff really. Then low batteries can cause warnings for whatever and when ever.

Did you read the rest of this topic... Battery...?

My new 2021 sportline diesel

After a 3 hour nightmare journey on the M25/M11 we finally picked up our new Scala Monte Carlo this afternoon. The dealership at Harlow have been brilliant and really gone the extra mile to make sure our car was ready for handover in 2 days. The tech and multitude of menus is a bit mind boggling, so need to take the time to scroll through and figure out what is useful and what is not.

Hi did you figure out what this was and how to fix it? I've got an 08 1.4d roomster scout that has just started doing the same thing.

And that's all done and she's now registered and back on the road. OH MY GOD what a car it is to drive. So bloody fast to the speed limit. Now, the next things on the to do list are the suitcase muffler (middle one), upgrade the head unit and get a rear camera installed. Oh, and a dash cam as the drivers here in Brisbane are bloody ridiculous.