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That's not what several other members who have fitted new batteries without coding have posted over the last few years? They claim everything works as normal and the new battery charges OK? You're the only person who has posted that not coding after fitting a new battery leads to the alternator not charging...

I believe the left is power meter. The needle is current power. The available power (yellow bars) are not all lit up, showing reduced max available discharge power. I am guessing white segments on the right are battery meter, it is 7/8 charged? All EV need to display available power because as battery changes in temperature and state of charge, it also changes both available discharge power and re-gen power. The BMS (battery management system) works out safe maximum based on a lot of parameters.

Good news - we have a pass. Haven't seen the emissions result yet but it was noted on the online MOT history that sadly, the plate value was unreadable.

Depreciation is capital lost on the actual price you paid, not on a nominal list price.

Zoe had been showing 4.7 miles per kwh today after a reset this morning. Have been getting 4.9 when slightly warmer, 5 is so difficult to keep on the screen for the Zoe. Generally pleased.

Bless me Father for i have sinned. With the colder weather i was a few miles short of my required range so I popped in to Frankley Services, went up to the TESLA V4 charger banks and took some of the Devil's juice. Super easy, Zoe only charged at 45 kws i presume but I add 23 miles in 6 minutes and it cost me £2.30 according to the screen. Took £20 as deposit but should get the £17.70 back before the weekend i suppose. Those V4 did not accept American Express oddly, will get on to one of my daughter other half who works for Am Ex as that is my weapon of choice. I can see why the Teslarati like all things TESLA. Screen was a bit small for my fading mince pies and I prefer to drive in rather than reverse in. Cable and plug easy to use. 9 out of 10 i reckon. Price was about 50p a kwh i think, hikes at 1600 hours but I was there about 1530 so got the off peak rate. Hope both Gridserve and TESLA tie up with Electroverse, another 8% discount would be good too. Ionity still my favourite i think but nice to know TESLA chargers are very good

3¼ Million miles in an Octavia must be a record!

I just stopped and help a lady start charging her Zoe. She knew if needed the CCS, it was not reading her RFID car or starting. That was because the lights were RED. Probably a child or ignorant adult charging hit the Emergency Stop but never restarted the charger. She did not know if not the 2 lights were Green the charger would not work. The 43kW AC on the side was green. I turned the Stop Knob for 10 Seconds and pulled it out, reset in 20 seconds. She said she knows how they work and was grateful for a bit more instruction. *I know the car that was charging when i went past a little earlier and i will try to see if they are the driver that keeps leaving the charger looking out of order.*

There are EV drivers still with ICE vehicles and will drive ICE vehicles. They are having a discussion not preaching. It is good to talk, and listen to their debatable points. They are not doing the scare mongering stuff, just talking about the real world now, and maybe what is coming.

First impressions then, it's very refined. The lack of extra artificial sound makes it just a nicer place to sit. Gearbox in normal mode feels a bit quicker to respond It's still easy to turn of the lane assist, but now there's a speed warning as well, it's in the same place so you just knock them both off at the same time. Velvet red looks lush Pics on Friday as detail and gtechniq getting done today and tomorrow

Good luck with that! Lots of folks only seem to come on here for an argument. 2 is correct though.

There would be a hell of a lot more threads on here with people trying to fix it if it were. AA man is probably harbouring the mistaken idea that any fault light is a fail. Never been true AFAIK, though often claimed.

Untrue and scaremongering, yes making the changes to the coding will be beneficial but the battery will charge and in time the Battery Management System would recognise the new battery characteristics and adapt accordingly anyway. Did you mean to right "won't charge correctly"?

Hello, welcome to the forum. I recall the stop/start warning being worded as -'Stop-Start unavailable' ,or something similar - is that the warning you get? AFAIK - (and I stand to be corrected) that is not an MOT failure point. A few questions - - Was the new battery adapted (coded) to the vehicle when it was replaced? - Was the alternator tested at the time for correct output? - Was the correct type of battery fitted?

In an idle moment (my wife tries to stop me having these but isn't always successful) I was wondering whether there are any members of the club left, other than myself and ;possibly Brijo? Some original members have moved on to new (and possibly better?) things, there's a chance some of the cars have gone to the scrapyard in the sky and some of thir current owners may not even realise they own something a little bit different, a tiny part of Skoda history perhaps? And some of the newer members of the forum may be wondering what I'm going on about. I would explain but the original members of the club will know it's not a can of worms to open lightly I think it sufficiently close to the event that I can say Merry Xmas to the forum, a Xmas I shall be sharing with my 11 year old Yeti as I hope to do for several more years.

Update on this clutch problem. Got the car back today, clutch and slave cylinder replaced. It was a solid flywheel. Total cost £550.

Guy is a no naught pillock. As someone from the Devon & Cornwall peninsula he is strengthening the story we are thick Wurzels sadly.

He quotes the brands and models that are failing or, like MG, being targeted at the UK as we are out of step with EU and other countries who have introduced massive countercailing tariffs. On the website for Renault Scenic buyers they are screaming for the dealers to get their cars cleared through Portbury docks Bristol ASAP.

The £40,000 Luxury VED is on the List Price. It matters not if you get it for under £40,000 because of a discount. @Graham Butcher If he just stuck to actual facts then that would be something. The crazy exaggeration about Milk Floats and range. Yes Stellantis 50 kWh usable batteries might only do 3.5 miles a kWh, so 150 miles and a bit from the latest. He says the insides all the same, and guesses a Mokka will be the same as a Peugeot, or a Citroen, they are very different from each others inside.

With the 1 Ltr I find the DSG box excellent. Nearly imperceptible changes and 60 MPG on steady cross country runs. After three years (49 MPG overall) I have updated to the new model. Very low growl (In the new car) in each gear and no doubt this and the MPG will get better in due course! Have had many automatics over 60 plus years and the DSGs are amazing. No doubt the boy racers will love the paddles!!!!!!!!

@lol-lol Is that you getting 5 miles to a kWh if 4.6 kWh gets you 23 miles?

I've done this swop myself this fall, and besides me braking one mirror glass the job itself is simple. I just got unlucky I guess, and I suspect age of the mirrorglass itself could cause them to be a bit more brittle than brand new ones. I'm just using a bit more caution when I remove the mirror glass from now on, and just simply work my way around it bit by bit, because my mirror glass are stupid expensive because they are heated and has autodim feature as well. Personally I felt it worked best to start prying from the opposite side of what's shown in this video, and just use caution no matter. Just going full wack can break the glass if the force is applied at the wrong spot, so just a little caution. I'd also check price for new mirrors for your specific car beforehand. Mostly it's autodim feature that cost an arm and a leg, so if that's not on your car then I'm sure it's not too bad.

No progress on the servo NRV; access is horrible in the scuttle, wiring conduit and A/C pipes in the way. Vaguely wondering about plumbing in a new, additional NRV somewhere more accessible. Genuine replacement pipe is NLA, doubt there's anything aftermarket. 8E2 611 931M, dropped from supply by Audi a few months back. I replaced the foglight damaged by the deer crash today, as well as the ARB bushes and links. The latter was suggested by a near neighbour as a possible solution to the clatter/knock I get at low speed on rough road surfaces. I will be pleasantly surprised if it's made any difference. Couldn't see much wrong with what came off. Oh, and of course, of the 8 ARB fasteners I had to undo, one seized and had to be sawn off. The joy of old cars.

Just jumping in on this, apologies: this is the marine grease I prefer for outboard engines and boat trailer hubs etc ( after trying many over the years). It doesnt harden with time like some do, and very resistant to washing off or emulsifying. Will use this when the time comes on the Skoda bushes: ( Quicksilver being the consumables brand from Mercury/Mariner): https://www.marinechandlery.com/products/mc-2-4-c-grease?variant=48267389993307&country=GB&currency=GBP&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&srsltid=AfmBOorX6Q1P0HsUSziSSXj_NoxjZ8rn_uQE0T5OAcWqkgdWFle_mkiNhf8

I do not see anyway that the Government in the UK, or Scotland, Wales or Northern Ireland are really encouraging anyone other than business's to go Electric. I can not see anyway that anything to do with the infrastructure for public charging will be helped by anything the governments do. They could set up Companies that give training and also do direct labour / ground works at charging hubs and installation of EV chargers. These 'Youth / Adult employment schemes could do Commercial Work for other businesses, for local authorities and do home installations. Basically privatisation of EV charging installers, but working with Commercial Concerns and not to undercut them. Help get out the trained people required how can maybe even become Contractors / Sole Traders / Business.s. Get the Planning in order and Local Authorities. Battery Storage is required, and solar canopies etc. And no Land Banking and no Permission given to those who do not own the land while those that do own it are blocked / refused planning.

From a Blues owners manual:

-5*oC is when the Power Meter drops to reduced available. It stayed at reduced until the Temperature got to -3*oC. Acceleration up to 70 mph. and a bit of acceleration is still available from 70 mph even when showing 75 or 80% power available. -3*oC just now and when i go out later i will be watching for it to drop from 100% if the temperature drops after dark. Charging at home tonight and i will look in the morning before Pre Conditioning the interior and see if any affect on the battery. Preconditioning somehow works far better heating interior, de-icing rear screen and putting on seat heating & de-ices the front screen quicker than if i get in and turn on and switch on fast De-Ice / De-Steam the front screen. 5 minutes done on remote start and all clear glass. If i get in the car it can be 10 minutes on me setting it. Obviously i am in breathing.

There is no way that i would suggest to anyone without Home or Workplace charging cheaply or without discounted public charging to get a BEV for private use and buying / renting using their own money which they get after tax. The cost of electricity in the UK is nonsense and really shows the Social divide or Business / Commercial users or purely private vehicle users for personal use. But not just vehicles because also their homes, and being on Smart Meters or not, and being able to get OffPeak tariffs or not, then regional differences on tariffs and standing charges.

Maybe turbo seals starting to fail if its done 250000. Had one that used a small amount of oil and was a bit smoky if idling for too long. Few oil spots on rear but nothing serious. One day filled the entire car park at tescos when they went completely. You definitley know when they fail. Got a second hand turbo cheap from the local scrapyard. Glad you got it through eventually. Alasdair

That was just a off the cuff reply to @wyx087 when he quoted CO2. I do really understand that it is not just CO2 and that burning fossil fuel is not good, but that does not detract from the fact that, man kind is making vast strides in improvements of all kinds across many things, but what gets up lots of peoples' noses is this constant banging on about how dreadfully bad we are for still using ICE when we should be embracing electrification and how wonderfully green it is when it really is not anywhere near as green as some claim it is. Also about how much cheapness can be had from driving electric by charging at home and how some folk constantly bang that drum and how they must have their eyes wired shut because they fail to see the reality that there are far more people who cannot enjoy home charging than there is who can, and also how electric cars are not the solution for loads of people, even those who could indeed charge at home with ease. I don't go around trying to preach to anybody who has made the choice of switching over to electric that they have made the wrong move etc, I respect that it is their chosen method of transport and that at the point of usage there is virtually zero emissions. Yet many of these same people are always telling us who drive ICE vehicles that we are using filthy polluting dinosaur juice etc. As I mentioned earlier, many people who drive ICE might just love to have an electric vehicle but because of where they live, and their personal circumstances simply cannot have an electric car, but these electric car enthusiasts simply cannot respect that and will at every opportunity attempt to demonise those who are not into the whole electric ethos, lock stock and barrel.

I have the sealed box, with no ports. This gives a more controlled response at the expense of extremely low bass. Don't get me wrong, there is a lot of very, very low bass, it is a massive driver after all. The ported version goes a tad deeper, has more punch and volume but has a slightly more uneven response. I guess what I'm saying is I don't know about bunging and unbunging the PB4000 as it isn't a feature on my Sub. But the app allows for tailoring between movies and music etc, so can be adjusted from your armchair. It also controls level and several other features. The rear of the sub has a lot of adjustability too, but most of it is covered in the app. You could get a PB4000 and see what you think. If you like it then consider a second one, if not return it. It is quite a beast. I don't know how loud or good, your old Kef was, but I suspect you will be more than pleasantly surprised by the SVS. I was amazed at the punch compared to my old Epos sub. I'm pretty sure you won't be disappointed with an SVS sub, they are superb and the whole range gets glowing reviews. Here is a SB4000 review Here is a PB4000 review

Due to play in the steering rack, had changed tie rod ends and bushes , which didn't solve it.

Well done. But don't stop looking to see why it was a bit smoky, improvement in that is likely to improve economy and power.

Minus 7 degrees C. Available power reduced.

If the 1.2 is anything like my sons then the headlights could be needing polished. His were going a bit yellow and slightly cloudy. I changed for new standard H7 bulbs and cleaned/polished them as it was an advise on the previous MOT and it made a big difference. I also find that over time halogen bulbs seem to lose their brightness with age. I have tried 150% and 200% brighter bulbs in the past and yes there brighter but don't seem to last as long. Worth keeping a standard spare in Gbox. Might be worth getting the alignment checked as well. His were very low and the friendly guy at MOT tweeked them up a bit. Still not the best but a lot better. Was thinking of fitting some driving lamps where the front fogs should be. Alasdair

There is a thought that instead of all the safety equipment there were spikes sticking out from the centre of the steering wheel then drivers would drive more safely. For many years now modern drivers might be too cocooned in their modern cars with all the driver "aids" and "assists" making them too remote from the driving and feel of the vehicle plus the added distractions of the infotainment. Having functions and driver's jobs at the push of a button also removes the association and contact with various driving elements like the weather and its effects on the car and driving. The cost of the vehicle is about the market it is in, Americans would find UK prices to be high so it is relative but the principles of purchasing remain the same so I think all advice given remains relevant, I ignored the prices as I have little idea of UK pricing let alone in Demark (which I too expected to be higher but not that high). The newer cars will be fine whilst they are under warranty but I am sure not have the longevity of older models, buying these cars when they are older I think will be the issue many cars do not have the best computer systems (I would include VW in this) and cars now are more computers on four wheels than ever before, the expense of keeping these systems going will I think increase car running costs for all of us even if we don't have them.

I finally got to look at the rear camera jet in action. It's quite a powerful jet and it just blasts the camera lens with a flat wide jet which reflects the liquid all over the back bumper and drips down onto the rear bumper. I'm not as concerned now I've seen it in action. I'll just have to use a washing liquid with less colour die in it.

Hydro mechanically controlled. Yes an ECU controls the changes. There is a MCU / Mechatronic Control Unit. No servicing schedule for the DQ200 Twin Dry Clutch DSG. 2 different oils. Unlike the Wet Clutch DSG,s where the same oil is in the box and MCU. Not as troublesome as the Electronically Controlled Ford Durashift Automated Manual was.

some links are still alive -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/481828-amundsen-mib1-map-update-2020-2021/

Guessing generally leads to very expensive errors. Have a look at* the throttle valve as suggested, or get a VCDS scan to see if any faults show up. * Edit - as in examine visually by disconnecting pipework from it, not as in 'buy a new one'

There would be more pumped storage in Scotland if there were not those blocking the developments. Often Councillors. Same with battery storage. As it is there is so much possible electricity generation going to waste. Not being used because the National Grid does not take it. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_power_stations_in_Scotland Just yesterday these vids came online. Where the communities do not want pylons do not compensate them if they go up, just triple their tariffs. IMHO. Just Hydro.

As is occuring around the world major hydro projects are being progressed so they can store the generated power from solar and wind for use by homes, industries and EV in the future to help make the UK economically a cheap energy place as low carbon. Over three times larger than the UK's most impressive engineering feat so far, Dinorwig, Coire Glas will be super impressive and I hope it going to do tours as Dinorwig use to do of the main turbines hall.

At 56mph on the motorway you'd be a hazard and dangerous to other road users - and create a lot of congestion as wagons try to overtake you.

Vacuum and wash with detergent / antibacterial fluid the pollen filter area should be the minimum. Air-con Cleaner Spray / Air-con bomb does the job. Google will get you to vids or guides on cleaning drains. Be careful if blowing through with an airline. Lubing sunroof runners etc again google. Search engines.

Hey! I had to replace one of the cornering lights due to condensation on my Superb. Basically you have 3 options: 1. Remove that piece of grille that surrounds the fog lamp and try to adjust it this way -> best option, but I could not done that, was IMPOSSIBLE to take out that piece of grille without breaking it since... well... it's plastic... 2. Remove the whole front bumper and you get full access to the fog lamp -> might involve too much effort, not recommended in my opinion! 3. Remove the wheel + wheel hull and access the fog lamp from behind ( you'll need an elevator for that ) -> you'll have enough access to replace or adjust the fog lamp with minimal effort in my opinion. Good luck!

Well, I sold up in the UK which included my trusty Mk2 Superb estate sadly. Moved to Spain with my job, best day’s work I ever did to be honest. But still lurking here cos it’s about the best VAG related forum in the world. The FB groups just don’t do it for me. Bought a LHD car to get us all here (3 adults and 4 dogs) which is an Audi A4 Avant, 1.9 pd automatic. Did us really proud to be honest, from the UK Midlands to the south of Murcia region in Spain in 32 hours with no issues. I only gave 3 grand for it which seems a lot in the UK but it’s cheap for a Spanish car and it saved me over 4 grand in flights for us and the dogs with the added bonus of having a car when we got here. And it’s rust free, kinda rare for a 2004 Audi. It is, of course, the CVT transmission made by LUK which seems unique to Audi. The rest of the VAG group in that era seemed to use a ZF auto which are a bit more reliable LOL. That’s one of the reasons I hang around here, for all the great technical info. Anyway, it might be an Audi but it’s still VAG so hope you don’t mind.

Hi, Yesterday, I finally put my winter wheels on, checked front and rear brake discs and pads (127000km on the clock, all original ones except rear pads). I also regreased the front and rear sway bars silent blocks with marine grease (an excellent tip from our Master PhD Skoda expert @ApertureS 👋 🙏). I did it one year ago, and it removed all squeaks and creaks when driving over speed bumps. They started coming back only 2 weeks ago. This morning, my Mk3 was silent again over speed bumps. 😃 Tested & approved! 😉

It seems that the Wild West of England isn't very well represented here so I'll add myself to the list being in Newquay on the North coast of Cornwall. I have Hex Can.

@ken2 The issue is that 'They do not all do it', only the ones that do do. So no point going with the same old that Skoda Dealership Staff might spout 'They all do that', because if they do the DfT / DVSA better get VW Group doing a safety critical recall. & resolve the fault as they had to with the 'Lack of torque recall'. The other Dealership rubbish from some is 'Never heard of that before', so be sure your issue is logged and with Skoda / VW UK, and with DVSA. There are contacts for them when there are safety concerns.

For a like-for-like battery replacement, coding may not be necessary. However, if the new battery differs from the original, coding might be required.