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Don't know where you are getting that idea from but wherever it is it's a load of tosh and rubbish - there is no such legal requirement! It may be 'recommended' by various motoring organisations but is not a requirement and these days with LED lighting it's pointless anyway. As for LED bulbs in fog lights - please don't and please don't use them as additional lighting unless it is indeed foggy - to do so WOULD be bad, cause glare to other road users and would be against the highway code as they should only be used when visibility is restricted and below 100m.

I got my car back yesterday, 33 miles on, no problems. I know that is not far, but went wrong after 10 miles when I got it . So, let's hope, fingers crossed!

That would be for a rear incandescent fog light IIRC...

With the wet clutch DSG versions it's possible to get a software tune that increases the clutch pressure to cope with the extra torque, but AFAIK there is no such option for the dry plate DQ200 so the clutches will be much more likely to slip and burn out. I also have a 1.8TSI DSG (mine's an L&K) and would like more power/torque but the risk of a big bill to replace one or both DSG clutches has made me decide to leave things as they are. IMHO if you really NEED (need not want) more power then your best bet is to sell your 1.8 and get a 2.0 which will have a wet clutch DSG so you can have both an ECU & TCU tune.

I had the PAS belt on my Octy break, and it was like having total arm failure!

I noticed what appears to be oil leaking, over the down pipe, which would explain that burning smell I noticed!! Looks like maybe it’s steering hydraulic fluid as it’s on the firewall behind the reservoir. It would have to be coming out with a bit of pressure to get there. This clamp looks suspect, though looking back at pics it has been like that for some time. I’ve added a second clamp for now, let’s see what happens.

We are now where a new EV need not cost more than a new ICE car of the same interior size. Be that the RRP, or the 'Cost to buy' price. I think we know now that depending on the BEV size, battery size that they need charged every 2, 3, 4 5 or maybe 6 hours of driving, assuming going 50 miles in an hour or so, As to those that can charge at home or work and return trips with no public charging then same thing. What car / battery and how far you go, No brainer financially if you can charge and go each 100 miles for maybe £2.50 or less cheap tariff electric. Or the HMRC / Government / General Public are helping you be taxed less on a company / business use car. If it does not suit your lifestyle or temperament then surely it is as with any vehicle / transport, use something else that does suit. Unless you are a delivery driver, or employee landed with what you are given.

Like someone who wants their front fogs to be LED rather than any other type of light source isn't going to want them on all the time to show everyone...

ONLY at times of SERIOUSLY REDUCED visibility - ie below 100m...

In Fog if that is what you need to see and not blind yourself. There are muppets that think side / position lights and fog lights is what to use in Fog and have posted such on this forum. Well circumstances, and location and needs must. The lighting can be tried to see when best you can see. Stylee and Fog Lights to match the Headlights or Sidelight colour is just for dafties IMO. Yellow Fog Lights /lenses can work well, or have done. The UK Highway code still has Sidelights on in 30 mph limits where there is street lighting as being OK. There are tw-its around with just Front DRLs, on in lighting up times in towns, and out in poor visibility. Often because they trust to Auto lights, or are just clueless.

So, replacing any technical parts of the AdBlue system seems to be just a waste of time and money. By the way, the latest software version proposed by the dealer as a solution, as I already mentioned, is not working either. Deleting the error from time to time has become annoying for me, but it seems there really is no other solution (except for completely disabling the SCR system).

No, any measurement has to come from another datum, the camshaft position sensor values are referenced to the crankshaft position sensor. An analogy would be trying to tell the time using a watch (analogue) that has no face and is perfectly round with no winder, no way of knowing where the 12.00 datum is. The watch would keep perfect time but be useless.

A moderate tune as @Ootohere suggests is more than enough. I would suggest a pedal box to improve the response and some tasteful handling mods. Lowering springs and a dogbone insert should be enough to improve the feeling. Check the age and condition of the shocks and brakes. Firstly though, get the oil changed with oil filter and air filter. New spark plugs and brake fluid too. Next would be to get the bushes checked for cracking. Tyres is a good starting point too. No point doing anything to your car if you can't stop, turn or go.

Been reading this thread for a while but only just registered to reply. Picked up my Superb SE L Hybrid in August and after around 1000 miles, received the Assist systems failures. Dealer carried out a reset and the alerts cleared but returned after a couple of weeks. Dealer tried to clear them again but with no luck, this was probably end of October. Spent a fair amount of time in discussion with them as I've been a customer of theirs for a while (usually change my car every couple of years, previous was an SE L Kodiaq), beginning to wish I hadn't swapped it for the Superb! They eventually informed me that it's a known fault and Skoda are working on a fix. Anyway, long story short, Dealer called me at the start of December to let me know that the fix is available. I'm taking the Superb in later today and they will work on it tomorrow. Will let you know, how it goes... wish me luck!!

That message says "Manoeuvre braking currently unavailable", so I think you have a problem with one or more of your parking sensors.

Thought I'd start a project thread to chart what I do to it. 2021 280 L&K DNFE engine - i.e. EA888Gen4; something I paid little attention to initially to my cost. Bought from Carr's Exeter; it was the GM's company car so had done 4,900 miles. Drove down the old car to Part-ex and brought back the Superb. Immediately had the emergency button switch off nearing home which was the first of a few problems with MIB3 software. Eventually got it upgraded which sorted out a myriad of sporadic issues. Given a bit of a clean and some paint protection - Infinity Wax Citrus Prewash, Carpro Lift, Reset, IronX, TarX, HydrO2 (easy mist on, jetwash off ceramic-based protection). The classic Engine Cover recall at this stage so engine looked a bit unfinished but cleaned with Koch-Chemie Greenstar - my go-to APC which also doubles as my main wheel cleaner too (start with an alkali degreaser, move to an acid for the stubborn caked-on stuff).

Anywone else had several dealer enriching lies told to them? When I first bought my 2017 SEL 1.4 TSI it was just over 2 years old. Went if for its first service and asked for it to be put on Extended Service Intervals as I had on my previous Mk II Superb. Service team said fine but when i got the car back it wasn't done and I had the pathetic less than 10,000 miles to go (it's 15,000 KP or 9230 miles!) Bananas I thought so in line with the paperwork for Horton Skoda lincoln I e-maile Oliver the dealer priciple to say I wasn't happy as what I was promised hadn't been done. I got a curt virging on rude reply telling me my car wasn't able to have Extended Service Intervals. In answering a question on this forum I looked up the user manual on line for which oil spec was required and poingin out you only need VW 508 00 for the Extended Service Intervals (ESI) if your car supports it and while its your choice you only need VW 502 00 oil. I came accross a few pages later in the manual to codes that tell you what service intervals our cars support on where to find them (build label in your handbook or under the boot carpet). QI1, QI2, QI3, QI4 all replate to different service intervals in km for fixed servicing, QI4 being the 15,000km one, QI6 is the code for ESI basically meaning you car has an oil quality sensor and works it out based on the envirnmental conditions and how you drive. So finally checked my car (1.4 TSI ACT) and its QI6 so the dealer plain lied or doesn't know his ass from his elbow, or was covering for his incompetent service team? If you read this Oliver feel free to tell me which it was! The next set of porkies was at just over three years old when the dealer tried to pursuade me with 40 odd thousand miles on it that it was due a new Cam Belt! Given my superb II 2.0 TDI had been due at 140,000 miles or 9 years I laughed an told him I would check whats required myself and to poke off for now. Dire warnings were given to try and pursuade me, which I ignored. When I checked the handbook it stated..... Nothing at all, as Skoda no longer published a maintenance schedule for all items just the time/mileage or ESI service intervals and nothing about when extra items like cam belts are due. did find reference online to .... Škoda Cambelt Replacement ŠKODA UK recommends that all timing belts are replaced at 5 year intervals. This is *******s however. they aould have to make them of chesse to need changing that often, my High Compression Mk2 Superb 2.0l Diesel was due at 9 years or 140,000 miles! I went back to doing my own servicing and so paid to access the official Skoda maintenance info system online "ERWIN" erWin Online | Škoda Auto | This told me after 5 years it needs inspecting at each service for condition and in the abscense of any visible damage or cracking of the belt it doesn not need replacing till 240,000 km I think it was anyway 140,000 miles + change in UK units. its a simple single wire to unclip and coun;t of fasteners and the top cover comes off allowing you to eyeball the belt, its a simple 5 minute job. Also bear in mind on the 1.4 TSI ACT the water pump is at the other end of the engiine driven by its own little rubber toothed belt so the cam belt isn't having to drive the water pump as well meaning is has an easier life. The inner toothed bit also looks to be something advanced like kevlar material wise so I think its pretty damn tough. So all in all not impressed by Skoda UK or their Stealers honesty!

Yes, especially if it is different. Should do. Original is an 027 not an 096? Thanks. AG Falco

As you have an EFB already on the car with a 59ah battery, the ABS site offers a choice of two. See here. www.advancedbatterysupplies.co.uk/agm-batteries/ And the 096 EFB & AGM recommended are both 75ah. Both are the same size. You can also type in your reg number on the main page and it will give you the correct type.

You can push and pull to make the best fit you can of the jacket when using an 096 battery but it will look like Alexis Sale wearing his 😁 it will however give it some thermal protection if you think it is needed. For me it was more an aesthetic thing, with or without the jacket the underbonnet view looked rubbish compared to the MK2 Octavia with its plastic battery box. So I did some looking and measuring and decided that the battery tray was the same as the Octavia and an OE battery casing and cover should fit, I bought one dirt cheap from Ali-Express but it was a genuine VAG part made for their local market, it fits perfectly and looks the part, the engine bay looks finished now. It was a bit of a squeeze to fit the sides and thread the cables through because there is less space around it than on the Octavia. I thoroughly recommend it.

I think his engine should be EA888 3rd Generation, Euro 6 emissions 1.8TSI, that has none of the above issues (and doesn't have an EGR valve)...

MIght be the door lock actuator thats failed. Have the same problem on a Seat Altea. Something to do with a circuit board or wiring in the drivers door. Also my 2012 Octavia only unlocks drivers door when button pressed. You have to press unlock again to open others. not sure where the locking control module is. Maybe drivers door or in dash.

Its the throttle valve mentioned above.

15 years is a good innings for a battery. It will probably have visible VW group part number on the top surface if it is factory original. Maybe a date code too. With a bit of luck, you'll find you don't need to mess about putting the new one on charge so regularly, unless there's a parasitic drain.

Why only 3 new tyres? You should always have new tyres per axle (both fronts or both rears) I suspect due to different rolling resistance the computer is getting confused

^^^ Best to be clear where and why. There must be a market for selling 'Snake Oil', but somebody probably has that trade marked.

The UK MOT inspection manual https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-for-private-passenger-and-light-commercial-vehicles/4-lamps-reflectors-and-electrical-equipment#section-4-5-4 does not say that conversion of Fog lamps to LED is illegal. The section on headlamps specifically states that conversion of these to LED will result in a failure but the Fog lamp section has no such restriction.

Zdravo i dobrodošli! 😊 I am also waiting for mine, except it is not an RS. If it were, I am not sure I could wait five months...

Owners of Mk2 Fabia vRS 1.4 TSI Twinchargers with 180 ps as standard have remapped to Stage 1 or 2 and 210 ps or more with standard DQ200 DSG,s, so 320 Nm or so and greater than the 250 Nm max as VW / Skoda gives. But the thing is. ? Has your DQ200 DSG had the Recall in Australia for the Software Update '34H5', Preventative for the Pressure / Heat issue and cracks / leaks / accumulator failure? Recalls has been done 3 times now, has your car needed it carried out, and is it done? The other issue is the DSG is 10 years old and you might get Clutch Pack failure or selector fork. There are Upgraded Clutches and Software Updates available in Australia, Harding Performance.

Yes. Earlier, the AdBlue injector was inspected, but nothing was wrong with it. The dealer also checked its part number and confirmed that it is from the latest revision (which is less problematic than the older ones). Additionally, I want to mention that there is no crystallized AdBlue around it.

Hi, You didn't tell us whether you Mk3 is a TDI or a TSI...😉 I assume it's a TDI. The oil spec is written on a sticker on top of the front grille. It should be 504.00-507.00 However, as far as I can remember, it doesn't state if it's 0W30 or 5W30. It used to be 0W30 at a time, but it has been replaced by 5W30. My TDI190, is currently 128000km on the clock and has only ever been filled with 5W30.

It's not a simple job to remove the sway bars bushes. Thus, I did it while my Mk3 was on jack stands when I put winter wheels on. I did not remove them to grease them.

Looking at the video, after starting there is warning light on and a message on the MFD

Cue all DSG owners demanding the 'missing' clutch pedal be retrofitted. 🤣

New high level brake light. The existing one always irritated me. It was cheap, and has faded and warped in the harsh New Zealand sun. Plus after it fell off the window due to useless sticky pads, I made improvised brackets from a bit of piano hinge I had laying round.

Yes, the Battery Monitoring System needs to relearn a new profile for your new battery. It is highly recommended that you code in a new battery. Get hold of an ODBEleven dongle for your smartphone. That will allow you to code up a new battery and read all fault codes. The crank time doesn't seem overly long, so I don't think that's a major issue.

Been to the Colindale car park today: Very poorly lit car park, they only had half the lights on. But the charging bays were lit up brighter than outside today. All 50 kW, I think perfect speed for typical dwell time over 1 hour. Old Chargemaster AC posts had been removed.

My advice is that you should be more specific with the details. What is your engine, fuel type and transmission (manual or auto, 5 or 6 speed)? Multiple warning lights, - which ones? Needed recovery - why? Lots of faults coming from transmission - what were they?

As BlackFriday was still going on and Paypal credit availability, I thought I'd pick up some uprated coil packs. Stuck with Racingline as I'm impressed with their stuff so far. Was looking to replace the spark plugs a little earlier than the 4year benchmark, but to be honest, the impossibility in trying to find a parts provider that can actually tell the difference between CXJA/DNUA/DNFE is mind-boggling. The only place that seemed to do the Bosch plugs for the DNFE engine was Autodoc and they did...then didn't...have them in stock. So I decided to leave them as they were and research uprated ones in the meantime. I don't think this is going to make more power necessarily, more about making sure there are fewest limitations from the remap. Whether they actually make a difference I'm sure will be 80% psychological but, well its done now. For now - it seems like the next items would be uprated intercooler and fast flow cat - both of which are starting to prove the law of diminishing returns by the looks of prices...

Engine: Racingline Stage 1 remap (self flashing tool) with TCU flash for the increased torque. Quoted as moving to 400bhp and 520NM (applicable to all engines with Continental turbo and end results irrespective of manufacturer's original state of tune). I haven't had it Dyno'd to prove, but I'm fine with those figures for now. What should help with the top end is the R600 induction kit and Forge turbo inlet pipe to speed up airflow - RL state that consistently gives 20bhp at the top-end so, I'm in the 400-420bhp ballpark. Brakes: Mtec drilled and grooved discs all round with ATE Ceramic pads. Standard sizes, just looks better and should stand up to any heavier braking should the need arise. Still bedding in and have noticed the DV-to-induction pipe has a broken clip so is being pushed off with high pressure/more open throttle. It makes the car sound like it has a dump valve at the mo (technically it is dumping to atmosphere so it effectively is). Not keen on that so no driving in anger until that's sorted as well as brakes having done a few more miles. Dirty Engine Bay:

I did mine a couple of months ago. Pretty straight forward job, but yes there are some things worth mentioning when doing this on 4x4. I have a pretty well equipped garage with a scissor lift, so pretty easy. If u have epb you will need vcds to retract the epb brakes. Some use 9v battery, but its really your choice. Also on 4x4 you will need to disassemble the rear wheel bearing housing and lower the bottom suspension braclet that holds the spring. Should use special mcpherson spring release tool, but clamps will work. Anyway, the spring has to come off to release the wheel bearing housing in order to push out the rear axle. You will not gain access to whell bearing bolts without this step. The lower bolt on the suspension must also come loose and that is only available once the spring is out... Anyway, when all this is done, removing the 3 or 4 wheel bearing bolts is easy. Sometimes the wheel bearing itself is pretty stuck caused by rust and corrosion. I used a slidehammer to shock retract the wheel bearing. A special tool yes. Once out, clean and lube before refitting new bearing. And now the fun part starts to assemble the lower suspension strut bolt and the spring. Without a mcpherson compression tool, you will have to use a hydraulic car jack or something similar to press the lower rear control arm back in place to fit the new stretch bolt onto control arm and wheel bearing housing. I used a gearbox jack, others use a normal hydraulic jack. Your choice. When all is done, do not tighten those bolts yet, since you have to tighten to specs when car is situated in proper ride height. Use a torque wrench and tighten to specs. Now, assemble brakes, caliper etc and youre done.

Yikes... its there for a reason! As much as adas systems are there for a reason and have came a long way, they are far from perfect and not to be relied on. They are just assist systems and not fully autonomous. If you cant steer the car in the direction in needs to go once every 10 seconds, then there are other issues. To answer the question, yes it can be done and has been done by some - but I wont be showing anyone how to do it/where to do it or such, sorry.

....but you can't use Waze on the instrument screen, which is a real shame.....

Wheel brand/name: TSW Size: 19, 8.5" ET: 42 Tyre: 225/35R19 Michelin PS 4S Any other mods, e.g. springs, coilovers etc: Weight: Vogtland coilovers Cayenne 19z calipers 375x36 Mercedes rotors Epytec brackets and brake lines

Changing the front grill is something I would love to do. I'm a little concerned that the size of the 'honeycombs' may let in small stones whilst driving. I guess because the same thing happened to my BMW 5 Series resulting in requiring a new AC compressor. Should I be worried? Also, I've noticed that a UK company is also selling them: https://www.undergroundparts.co.uk/collections/all-skoda-parts/products/skoda-octavia-2013-2017-honeycomb-mesh-gloss-black-sport-front-radiator-grille Does anyone have any experience with them? I'm also a little concerned that I'll get hit with a huge duty bill if I order from SuperSkoda. Thanks.