Leaderboard

Yeah, I'm toying with the idea of coming over to see if I can help with this. Probably lots of life left in it.

Briskoda doesn’t condone clones Therefore this will be locked.

It's simply a very crude temperature guauge... Cold or below normal operating temperature range /. In range / too high or low coolant level.

I don't think this can be the problem. In Fabias, when this wire that energises the alternator breaks, the red charge warning light stops working. I believe your experience prior to the breakdown was that it was working. Just turn on the ignition to the point where lots of warning lights self-test, and check that you see the red picture of a battery. If you do, that wire isn't broken.

The app I use says 120Nm.

I reckon this could be bang on and is pretty typical of the sort of electrical failure you described. It's a known design fault and a relatively easy fix as I seem to recall a repair kit being available for the Fabia that had longer wires to overcome the problem of vibration pulling them apart at the connector. To me it sounds like the temperature lights are doing what they should and the back liquid dripping from the exhaust is simply condensation mixed with exhaust residue within the exhaust itself.

Yep TDI cover. It pulls upwards. There are 4 ball like push in fixings that pop in and out when lifting. Think you lift the front first from memory Alasdair Try and lift cover as near the push fixings as possible. They can be quite tight and can snap if old and brittle. Be firm but careful

Thought I posted that yesterday. Don’t want to cause an argument. My understanding of the blue light from the manual is that it warns you that the engine isn’t up to temperature yet. There’s a snowflake that appears in the little computer when the temp gets below 4 for the ice warning. Meanwhile does anyone think it’s time to let the car go? I’m starting till think so. Bear in mind that the idea of looking for a replacement fills me with dread..

Playing with my new camera

Spec is 120 Nm, dry threads. Greasing them will result in overtightened bolts. If they're difficult to tighten clean the bolts and the holes in the hub.

Good on you Pete I think you have read the situation well, it's not so much fixing any issues but giving a verdict that will restore confidence with the OP. I wish I could surround myself with people like you!

Absolutely not especially as there is nothing that can replace a Roomster. You need some very simple cheap repairs, anything more modern is going to need complicated and expensive attention I get the impression that you are looking for validation to get rid of it, you picked the wrong place, we are fond of Roomsters here even those of us who have never owned one!

As @skomaz, I think the alternator is most likely another well documented 15 mins at the local garage fix.

Well, I don't know about Honda's, but I suspect that it could very well be an early form of the ice warning system that we all seem to have in today's cars?

Sorry about the issues - I can't help with Nextbase, but next time around have a look at Blackvue with the plug and on/off switch that goes straight into the diagnostics socket. Doesn't need hard-wiring and the switch means it's either 1) Active all the time until the battery gets low (if there's local car crime): or 2) Only on when the ignition is on.

Dealer has informed me mine is built and awaiting shipping, but is confident it’ll arrive before the end of March (save me £2k luxury car tax if so). They’re getting demonstrator for a week in March, and will let me have a play when it’s with them. Hoping I like it because I’ve just had a Mini Countryman electric loan car this week and quite liked it! Very refined. £10k more than the Skoda and I’m hoping I like the Skoda more!

Hi all, hope all is well in the new year? Well to give an update regarding my claim, I have been given a "non-fault" claim settlement letter, emails and have had my excess returned to me and all that jazz. It took almost 6 months for this to be settled, which seems about on point with what I was previously told, and the most important part, I feel, was that I had the dash cam recording showing the incident. I feel whereas if I hadn't I think I wouldn't, I would have been in a worse off position. So if you guys ever get a chance, fit in a dash cam - at least you get to see all kinds of weird and wonderful things about there.

Thats good to know. I am slowly making a list of bits to modify if I decide to keep it when it gets to the end of the PCP dealer. Remap and gearbox map are on the list too.

Does that not cause over torque, due to decreased friction ? More pressure on the bolt and seat ?

Yes, I think that's a good idea. Not sure how easy access is.

My mate has a Q5, the same age as my Karoq. We bought them within weeks of each other, both used and similar mileage. Both have ran for coming on for two years with us returning similar mileage and with similar servicing although his service cost him more. My Karog is an sel and is better equipped and better finished than his Q5. His Q5 is bigger but it is in reality not very noticeable. I far prefer my Skoda to his Audi. I'm biased though because of course I'm going to like my car better. The big surprise it that he to also likes my car better. And when you take into account I paid 17 grand for mine from a car supermarket type dealer, he paid over 10 grand more from Audi. I have a full dealer service history, he has not. He got one years warranty, not needed, I got 3 months, also not needed. Therfore my opinion is get the soda. However that is on 6 year old now car, new may be a different story. To be honest I would not be disappointed having either of them. Would I pay more for image personally, that would be a no, but make up your own mind.

Yes much regen systems in pure EVs compared to hybrids but the hybrids are coming on leaps and bounds especially as the Eu and other countries are nailing Chinese BEVs with super massive countervailing duties. The new MG3 is quite a tool, 100 hp or so motor and strongish regen and now SAIC/MG have just updated the MH HS. 75 miles, possibly more on batteries plus your ICE and for not huge money... Many hybrids are going to get mega whacked in the new VED scales so this need considering in the rounds. Quite surprised how much regen by son's Clio with its tiny 1.2 kWh battery does but the small battery can only do so much to help the ICE but I have seen the Clio do over 80 mpg on some test. CO2 is only 96 gm/km so i think it is staying at £195 a year VED which is what my EVs will go to in 2026 ie next year. New HS with near 25 kWh battery ie nearly half the size of my Zoe !! I reckon I might get 100 miles range out of the battery.

Sadly getting only too common. Best look at any of the threads covering DQ381,s.

My octavia is 120nm and I think from memory its the same for the fabia. I usually put a bit of copper grease on them. Alasdair

Do not buy illegal pirate software. At best it won't work well, if at all. At worst it will brick your ECUs and don't expect any sympathy if it does.

As you may have gathered, I think that, at worst, making the temperature lights work normally will be about £30 (parts) and maybe 15 minutes labour at a local garage.

Expect this thread to blow up with angry people really soon 🤣 The copy ones only work up to a certain version of the software, which is now really old. https://www.ross-tech.com/vcds-lite/download/index.php or by way of installing loads of suspicious software on your computer that's probably not going to do nice things to it. If you're mainly planning on using it on your own stuff it's worth having a look at the 3-VIN licences. They're not as cheap as the copy ones, but still good value, and you can do a lot without using up one of the VIN's. https://www.gendan.co.uk/product_VCV23.html?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAq-u9BhCjARIsANLj-s2He4a1sLYcSoE4W7pEov7iQLjFIs2n6q9jwhBtvao30Fg-DbyaiacaAj-iEALw_wcB

I know next to nothing about Ren-no.

20 years old in March, and wow, what an absolute gem it's been. Just sayin'. Might have a party for it, and CAKE! It's just had a pressie anyway. Black Magic..... detail valet, and ceramic coating.🥰

I've changed the battery twice on my MK2, and had it disconnected many other times - no serious damage has occurred!!

Hi Meyannos, There is a slight noise coming from the pulley when at idle but I can't hear this from the driver's seat, only with the wheel arch off. Not to say that's not the issue you're having. I've read that some others with a different pulley experience a rattle sound.

Don't forget to reset the one press window up/down feature after replacing the battery. See handbook.

23.5 gallons apparently! Makes my Jag's tank seem weeny by comparison 😁

In my experience it is likely to be a battery fault. When mine wouldn't start I called the AA and he restarted the engine using another battery connect in parallel with my battery. He left it running like that (to recharge my battery) for about 5-10 minutes. As soon he took off the first lead between his battery and mine, the engine stopped. My battery had developed an internal fault; high resistance, almost open circuit. The way the fuses are connected is that the first fuses are high current fuses that look like vertical strips of metal mounted near the battery and connect to it. Power from these then go to lower current fuses and relays which in turn feed the even smaller fuses such as those at the end of the dashboard. The fusing philosophy is standard whether it is a house, car or airplane. The fuse size is chosen to protect the cable connected to it in order to prevent fires from cable burn out. The cable is sized to carry the maximum current in that circuit. I have seen car enthusiasts connect lights or sound amplifiers directly to a battery with no fuse! I guess some will have found out the hard way with a car fire on the hard shoulder. If you use lithium batteries at home (especially LiFePo pouch type) you MUST have the appropriate fuse in circuit as once their maximum current has been exceeded, the cells become hot and get into a runaway condition. The chemistry of these cells provides all the oxygen needed to keep the cells burning at high temperature. They can also catch fire if you use the wrong type of charger even if the voltage rating is the same: this problem has been seen on electric scooters.

Whiteline ARB fitted. 25mm set to stiffest setting. Feels really good. Have done some fast flowing A roads punctuated by some roundabouts and feels much less dramatic if that makes sense. Dogbone upper has gone in but the lower was the wrong part. AwesomeGTI are swapping the version over thankfully so will hopefully get that sorted this week with any luck.

Still working

We didn’t find pulling the coils themselves bad at all; but unplugging the connectors is about as frustrating as it gets and sorry to say I broke one of Rob’s. It still clipped into place but several bruised thumbs, swearing and YouTube videos for technique meant the job feels like a pig just getting to the plugs.

Removed a 12" stick which was stuck in front of the nearside rear wheel and which sounded as if a spring had gone everytime I went over a bump in the road. Sometimes look for the easy solution!! At least it saved me a trip to the main dealer to sort out the intermittent grating noise.

I’ve seen the sealant running into the tubes, but the cover leaking into cylinder 1 and 4 is reasonably common. VAG in a lot of cases worded it as internal seepage and wouldn’t cover it under warranty. happened frequently on the 1.8 tsi as well. Normally caught on during a plug change or when it was bad enough to cause a misfire. These coil pack pullers are a lifesaver for removing those packs.

Looking like your battery is the issue. Get yourself onto tayna's website and order a decent battery. Usually arrives the next day and the coding can wait until you sort yourself out or find a local with the kit. VCDS owners on a map elsewhere on the forum.

Taken from my Flickr.

That does sound like pretty standard "running out of electricity" symptoms. The way it started for the recovery man makes me thing the battery is OK at least. Good news is, there's quite a bit you can check yourself with a torch and a screwdriver. Have a good look over all the big cables between the battery, starter and alternator, looking for cables fraying at the plugs, loose connections, corrosion. Check the maxi fuses on top of the battery. They can develop cracks which look ok until you give them a prod. Check the small wire that runs to the alternator. I'm fairly sure it's a similar setup on a roomster to a mk1 fabia, where it runs along the bar under the radiator into a multiplug, where it can often break down.

No, it doesn't require the MIB to change. Mine was an MIB2 Columbus with a 8" screen when I had the DCC Slider Mod done.

21 years later... Wow, Wondering if this is the oldest thread revival post in the history of Brisky ??? ......... Lol.

Had a new exhaust system fitted about a month ago, as the old one cracked and parted between the outlet side and the middle/front box. (Octavia 1.8 TSI L&K autobox) Checked around and found to replace was going to be about £1200 for the full section from cat joint to system, i.e. two box pieces and the connecting piping. So went to local custom shop and got a three box stainless system installed for approx £650. Sounds very nice and significant smoothing of the engine but seems to be using about 10-15% extra fuel overall, usually got readings of 400 miles + when filling to max, but now looking at 350, do i need to get it remapped or reset the ecu etc.

Did they replace the catastrophic convertor? Aftermarket ones can be very restrictive and also have barely enough precious metals to pass an initial MOT. Can you explain exactly what section(s) was/were replaced, "from the cat joint to system" is confusing to me. I would also check that the Lambda sensor is swinging hi and lo around the 1.0v reference voltage at idle and higher revs, you will need a moving scale meter to do this.

Hi All, Thought I’d update this for people who experience the same issue. long story short Skoda ended up changing the Cambelt, Coolant Pump and did a full service, sensor check and all fluids changed in the car. This strangely made the problem worse and the glow plug warning starting flashing almost immediately after leaving. I noticed this time it would come on after pushing on the accelerator hard. OBD scanned it myself and revealed a Fuel Rail/Pressure problem. diagnosis was a high pressure fuel pump gone. Since then, not had any issues with the car. Got there in the end, even if it did cost my company £3600 all in for all their work.

look, how is titled previous P119 23.12 on Škoda portal This practice is standard behavior over years - Titles of realized maps are half year forward while archive's content half year outdated not hard to guess, new P129 24.06 will be titled as ECE 2025

Hi Guys I have a Superchips remap on my 1.4 TSI 150 manual Yeti. The car is out of warranty so no problem there. I have about 180hp and the torque increase is 25%. The extra torque makes the car much more driveable and the car is more economical. I use Shell Vpower or Tesco 99 and the low down pulling power is noticeably better that 95 octane. I told my insurers and they charged a bit more but were happy with a 20% increase in power. I currently use Directline and had no problem with previously Aviva either. I thoroughly recommend Superchips. Hope this helps PS would have bought a 2.0 litre if they did one - got my eyes on a Karoq