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First wash for Gandalf for 2025. Scrubs up well after almost 8 yrs 😁

Just had a call from my dealer. Picking mine up on Thursday! Can't wait.

The change is one Skoda / VW brought in. No point others saying what their older cars pre Updates do. It is a shame you only get D with in Drive, Automatic shifts, but really does it mater, 'Scream if you want to go faster, kick down or accelerate, and the car changes gear. Use S or Manual if you want to know what gear you are in.

There is an issue anyway battery or not that Stop / Start does not work first journey of the day no matter how far it is driven.

Stop buying throttle bodies. That isn't the problem, you've already shown that by trying another.

Can you not just look at the door handles and check for the sensors?

Kilen lists 6Q0511115AG rear springs for the Fabia MK2 1.2TDI Greenline hatchback, which are standard ride height springs. According to the Skoda parts catalogue these are colour coded Orange Yellow Yellow Blue, as shown in the chart below. Maybe the yellow dots have faded on your old springs, and now look white...hence perhaps the coloured dots are really Orange Yellow Yellow Blue and not Orange White White Blue? If a Fabia MK2 has build code 1JA, then the car has standard ride height. If a Fabia MK2 has build codes 1JA and 0YA, then the car has 6Q0511115AG rear springs...which are standard ride height rear springs. Fabia MK2 standard ride height rear spring (1JA = standard ride height) 6Q0511115AG 1 paint mark 2 paint marks 1 paint mark orange yellow blue 1JA+0YA

First thing I noticed when I downsized from a Kodiaq to my 24 1.5 tsi Kamiq Monte Carlo was the lack of gear numbers when in D. Must say after the first few days you don’t even realise it’s missing, the gearbox is clever enough to be in the right gear, so do I need to know what gear it’s selected, it appears not. Even when in sport mode and the gear numbers are displayed, can’t say I’m looking to see what gear it’s in, I just let it get on with what it appears to do impeccably.

Scouts were / are not higher. Standard Height. vRS / Monte Carlo were lower, and a TSI or a TDI or a TSI or TDI Estate have different springs. As to Greenlines and lower or less ground clearance, as well as springs possibly different there is Underbody protection & different tyres Total Diameter / circumference.

I went through a phase of watching lots of his videos. There's a fascination for me in watching how he overcomes a lot of the access and tooling issues whilst also managing to film it all, well, seemingly alone!

Perhaps you have been given/sold the wrong filter type? Was it visually the same or different to what came off? It's possible you have a coincidental failure of the oil pressure switch, find and disconnect the 1-wire connector from it to see if there is leaked oil inside it.

Such is life if you lease / rent a Prestige vehicles as a company car / business and personal use. What needs looked at is the difference of the costs of running an ICE or EV Porsche over the 3 or 4 years or longer. Money down, monthlies, maintenance, running cost of fuel, insurance etc. Tax benefits. You pay £1,000 or more a month because you are driving a £120,000 car, well it was that on the invoice. WBAC / Mptorway / other TRADE buyers are buying a car to sell. That is what they give in Cash Money, not what the car will be selling at to a 2nd keeper at what ever outlet. As to subscribers for Electric Car Content if you have no Electric car like a Taycan / Mecan there will be no Electric Car content and what does HMRC give as a wee sweetener to do your Filming and Transportation in a Porsche 911?

Ok - this should be v330 for RoW. Maybe download software again from here maybe and see if this fixes it (the zip with P33000P in the name) V330 RoW download (If a login popup appears, its “guest” for both username and password)

Having been piggy-backing on an Antipodean thread about a 1964 Skoda Octavia until now, I thought it only fair that I should start my own, and so I'll summarise what's happened with the car so far: I acquired the car in December 2020, from a guy in Kent, in whose family it had been since it was new. I bought it "sight unseen" and, while appreciating the risks this might involve, I had long conversations with the owner and felt comfortable with things, not least because the cars are so rare I'd be lucky to ever see another one! The car was delivered by transporter to a lock-up I'd rented in Whetstone, north London, exclusively for storing the car and I quickly realised what a great car I had! The boot was crammed with parts, the engine turned over happily and the bodywork looked pretty good. In addition, the previous owner handed me an ENORMOUS file, including the original bill of sale, numerous M.O.T.s and associated documents-brilliant! The boot contained the car's original number-plates, although the car sported a newer registration. The previous owner had already explained that the car had "slid off the radar" of the D.V.L.A. & so had received a new number. Fortunately I managed to re-register the car with its original number, with the assistance of the the Skoda Owners Club, and sort out another anomaly in the car's details at the same time-result! The entire process took less than a fortnight and, as this was over the Christmas and New Year festivities, I was most impressed with the speed of the service! All the engine needed was a battery & new plugs and I had it running in no time, albeit from a 5 litre can. Later I changed the fuel pump, to assist the fuel delivery, but there was (and still is!) a problem with the fuel line, but that's for another day! The car had no brakes at all, a fact of which I was aware, so progress up and down the road adjacent to the lock-up was, of necessity, limited. The intervention of more stringent Covid restrictions meant very little could be done for several months, and when I did have a chance to work on the car again, the starter motor had failed! To describe the removal of the starter motor from a Skoda Octavia as "difficult" would be an understatement of a magnitude unimaginable! Oddly, there's a trailer for a new series of "Bangers and Cash Restorations" on T.V. at the moment, in which a restoration mechanic says that it's possible to spend 4 hours just undoing one nut........I know how he feels! The starter is held in by two 17mm nuts, one of which it's just possible to get at, with the aid of extreme dexterity. The other one-forget it! The workshop manual says 2 specific spanners are needed and lists the part numbers......some hope! No-one had them, or had even heard of them. But this morning, I "bit the bullet" and e-v-e-n-t-u-a-l-l-y I removed it! I suspect the right-hand drive cars had several design problems, not least being the removal of said starter motor. I removed the gearbox link from the steering column, the metal heater pipe linking the front lower hose to the heater matrix, the vacuum pipe from the carburettor to the distributor and this allowed me to get a 17mm spanner onto the inner nut, between the engine block and the starter motor. I "cracked" it and, once cracked, the 17mm socket slowly shifted it & the starter came free..... Removing it from the engine bay meant unscrewing the 4 nuts holding the down pipe to the exhaust manifold, and, once shifted, I extracted the starter motor. By now it was 3pm on a sunny Saturday, so I adjourned to a "local hostelry" for several "cold ones". On Monday I'll take the starter to Unit Exchange in Borehamwood, for a refurbish.

You cannot close the windows remotely or the trunk so I'd assume you cannot close the panoramic roof either. I've made several suggestions in the app to give you warnings if you've left the windows open or the car unlocked for some hours but I never got any feedback from the developers..

So sorry to hear about your situation..... AFAIK, early Up/Citigos were fitted with a 180mm clutch that was problematic - some cars repaired under dealer warranty were then fitted with the Polo clutch (200mm). I believe, but cannot confirm, that later cars (post facelift?) got the Polo clutch as OEM fit. Given that there were Polos with the same MPI engine (and a bit more weight, hence clutch wear), I'm pretty sure there is a better 200mm clutch that is right for your car - if you go with part numbers and VINs, you may well end up buying the poor 180mm clutch. If I were you, I'd repost on the Up! Owners Forum for advice - this site (Briskoda), as far as Citigos are concerned is tiny in comparison and has far less technical knowledge - it's fine for all other Skodas, but the Citigo is really an Up! with just a few cosmetics changes....

gknautomotive list 6Q0511115M rear springs for the standard ride height Fabia MK2 1.2TDI estate with towbar, so that should be quite firm on a hatchback. Kilen 63110 (matches 6Q0511115M) autodoc.co.uk/kilen/7837570 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/204000988331?

The key fobs have a motion sensor that puts fob to sleep mode if not moved. Perhaps you getting out etc is waking up the fob. Worth a try moving fob around before trying to start to see if that does the trick.

It’s probably worth getting the battery tested or at least charged on a smart charger. If the problem continues it’s probably worth getting a diagnostic scan. Mark

Ahhhh! Well it is sorted now. The bulb I had to replace was difficult to identify on your own, even backing up against a reflective surface. Unfortunately the manual diagram isn't the best, and no matter how hard I read it, it seemed to refer to a different bulb socket that the one I was looking at. Anyway, the single small bulb is probably the 2 voltage type. Halfords 955 W16W just over £2 a pop. As I mentioned earlier, the continuity was OK on all bulbs and that's what threw me. When I put a full 12v over this one, it shimmered and died, but kept continuity. So for this 2012 model L&K, the warning for the stop light means "don't bother testing it, just replace it." My old classic bikes have proper bulbs with twin filament (grey hairs showing). Thanks for all comments, it's great to know we ain't alone. Ted.

I really appreciate you adding that to this thread @Carlston 👌. A couple of things I'd highlight and no doubt this boils down to personal choice, but anything bigger than a 205 tyre on a 6J rim probably isn't ideal. I'd would personally say that you want to look towards the 6.5J rims which would be good or 7J rims would be perfect 😀. Once you factor in a good quality all-terrain tyre, you're somewhat limited to 215/65/16 or 235/60/16 tyre. The Geolander G015's are an alright tyre but I think they are trailing behind and most people would pick a Toyo Open Country, Falken Wildpeak, General Grabber or a BF Goodrich if budget allowed. Maybe even throw the Comforser CF1000 into the pot as well 😀. Alana and I mulled over between going for a 215/65 and a 235/60 for a good while before we settled for the 215/65. In our heads, the 215/65's have the bigger sidewall which would soak up more of the bumps both on and off-road. Having the narrower 215 profile over the 235 could also be marginally useful when it comes to any snow or mud that we encounter. In the real world it probably doesn't actually make that much difference so I guess it's horses for courses 😁. To wrap it up in a nutshell and obviously my advice really counts for nothing 😂, but I'd say to anyone, the best pick is to go for either a 215/65/16 or 235/60/16 tyre and stick that on a 6.5J or 7J rim. 😀

Check the workshop didn’t leave it in service mode. Give them a call.

Just to add to the above and give some other possible tyre and steel rim sizes for the Yeti (mostly non-standard): Some possible AT (All-Terrain) tyres 205/70R15 (15" rims fit all Yeti models, except 170HP versions due to the big 312x25mm front brake discs) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m53b0s2481p148166/Yokohama_Tyres_Car_Yokohama_Geolandar_AT_G015_205_70_R15_96H_RPB_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_E_Wet_Grip%3A_C_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_70dB 215/60R16 (standard Yeti tyre size) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m62b0s111p164244/Yokohama_Tyres_Car_Yokohama_Geolandar_AT_G015_215_60_R16_95H_RPB_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_E_Wet_Grip%3A_C_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_71dB 215/65R16 (might rub) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m62b0s426p148189/Yokohama_Tyres_Car_Yokohama_Geolandar_AT_G015_215_65_R16_98H_RPB_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_E_Wet_Grip%3A_C_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_70dB 235/60R16 (might rub) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m62b0s425p148190/Yokohama_Tyres_Car_Yokohama_Geolandar_AT_G015_235_60_R16_100H_RPB_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_E_Wet_Grip%3A_C_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_72dB 215/60R17 (might rub) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m54b0s3735p164247/Yokohama_Tyres_Car_Yokohama_Geolandar_AT_G015_215_60_R17_96H_RPB_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_E_Wet_Grip%3A_C_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_71dB Alcar 7755 6Jx15 ET43 5/112 57.1 steel rim (from Octavia MK3) (6.80kg) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rims/details?vehicleId=502374009556452464&rimCode=ALCAR7755 Alcar 6665 6Jx16 ET43 5/112 57.1 steel rim (from Karoq) (7.60kg) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rims/details?vehicleId=1284041564754023536&rimCode=ALCAR6665 Alcar 9922 6.5Jx16 ET33 5/112 57.1 steel rim (from Tiguan MK1) (8.20kg) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rims/details?vehicleId=67955865910514800&rimCode=ALCAR9922 Alcar 9187 6.5Jx16 ET43 5/112 57.1 steel rim (from Audi A3) (7.62kg) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rims/details?vehicleId=1275188297127171184&rimCode=ALCAR9187 Alcar 9257 7Jx16 ET45 5/112 57.1 steel rim (from Yeti) (9.35kg) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rims/details?vehicleId=185941160152274032&rimCode=ALCAR9257 Alcar 9021 6.5Jx17 ET38 5/112 57.1 steel rim (from Kodiaq MK1) (11.58kg) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rims/details?vehicleId=639488607098246256&rimCode=ALCAR9021 Out of the above, my preference for off-roading would be the 15" option...and look how much weight you would save compared to the 17" option. The above 15" rims weigh about 6.80kg each compared to the 17" rims which weigh about 11.58kg each. So that's a weight saving of 19.12kg for 4 rims or 23.9kg for 5 rims, ie. carrying a space. Note that the Yokohama Geolandar AT G015 tyres have only been used in the links above to shown that All-Terrain tyres are available in those sizes. It's not a recommendation.

Just a quick one regarding the Haldex service, I really wouldn't focus too much whether it has or hasn't had a Haldex service. Obviously if it's never had a Haldex service in its life and it's done 100,000 miles, maybe factor in a new Haldex or at least a new pump after you buy it 😄. I would factor either doing a Haldex service yourself or book the car into somewhere that actually knows about Haldex'es which isn't as common as you'd think. I am generalising here, but a lot of places (even Skoda dealerships themselves) will class a service as draining out the oil and topping it back up with fresh stuff. While in-part they are 60% of the way to servicing the Haldex, they miss out on the crucial 40% of the job. On the pre-facelift Yeti's it will most likely have a Gen 4 Haldex I believe fitted to it. This will have a filter that needs changing and a mesh screen in front of the pump that needs cleaning. On the post-facelift Yeti's it'll have a Gen 5 Haldex which just has a mesh screen in front of the pump. If you're lucky, some places will drop the oil and fit and new filter in the Gen 4 Haldex. Very few places will know about the mesh screen in front of the pump or go to the small effort of removing the pump. There-for, junk will build up in front of the pump which leads to the pump working harder and harder until it eventually burns out. There is also a procedure that is meant to also be followed after the Haldex has been serviced which VCDS (or similar) is needed to complete the service 😀. Here's a video where I briefly talk about the Haldex and how important it is to get service at the right place 😀. Oh and yes, our 4x4 Yeti was meant to have had a Haldex service and just look at the state of the pump! 🙈 After Alana and I bought our Yeti, within 2 or so months of ownership, we drove it just over 2 hours and 110 miles North to Darkside Developments in Barnsley to make sure our Haldex service was done properly 😁. Not that my advice is worth any more than the next persons, but I'd factor in a Haldex service into your buying costs 😀

Hi! Yes I have the same symptoms with my VC after the Update. Also no more Calls get displayed in the Cockpit Display, and you can't use the Cockpit screen to start calls, hang up.

The sad thing is I'm old enough to know exactly how that cars interior will smell the moment he opened that door! https://youtube.com/shorts/AQc3tdp6v-A?si=ngwYSNXA9QoWss5V

well....english is not my mother language....I just wanted to point that going to thedealers wont solve anything

Me too, very inspiring.

So I got the wife to check the invoice (which has the correct part number) and the old filter which I left in a bag in the recycling temporarily and the part numbers are the same. The one I put on my car on the weekend has a different number. The dealer will swap it out for me. I'll give it a go without draining, may be a little messy but I think I would just take it off, catch any oil and put it back into the housing before putting the new filter in. Wish me luck! Also thanks @Breezy_Pete for the help, much appreciated.

I think you can probably change it without losing much if any oil on a 1.2 TSI, others will know better than me, never done one. Likely is the wrong filter, I'd say.

Take your time, and if in doubt, remove more bits than strictly essential, to give yourself more working space.

Alright I now found 2011-2018_SKODA_Citigo_SM/Manual Gearbox 0CF.pdf which should help compliment the procedure.

You could get a similar look to ours but cheaper. I believe one of the small VW vans have 16" steel wheels that have a slightly different ET that I believe will still fit onto the Yeti that you could possibly buy from eBay or the likes. We very briefly looked down this route (hence why I'm not 100% sure on the exact details). The only reason why we didn't go down this route is trying to find 4 steel wheels that were the right size was actually harder than what you'd think. We personally didn't think there was much saving to be had if we sent them off to be painted so that they looked reasonable. Lastly, you never know what life they have had and how round they actually will be 😄. The last thing we wanted was for there to be annoying wobbles or vibrations for when we did long trips 😁. But I will put the idea out there for you and anyone else that reads this thread because it's still a perfectly feasible route to go down to achieve the same outcome but with maybe less cost overall 😀.

oh, sorry my mistake i copied the wrong file name which was earlier installed successfully then i updated from v324 to v330 (was installed in the Skoda workshop. But the navigation database issue still persists and they don't have any clues on how this happened. apologise for the wrong v. info

SMMT data for February 2025..... BEV + PHEV + HEV now exceed number of pure petrol car sales. https://www.smmt.co.uk/vehicle-data/car-registrations/

Up to you, unless you are unhappy with them keep them. Don't worry about 2 or three - ETA: drivers or - of whatever number of watts if they have been working for fine many years. If you want better sounding speakers and you can get better sounding speakers then if you want them buy them. Take your Alpine specification to the seller of speakers and just get whatever is suitable and explain you are not worried about impressive number of watts or drives but impressive sound to match the Alpine, which you may already have and they just need a bit of cleaning, lubricating or fine as they are now. ETA: you don't want the Alpine showing shortfalls in the speakers or speakers showing up shortfalls in the Alpine you want both suitable to each other only you can hear if this is achieved or you care that much about it, like the car there are limits to what can be achieved no matter what you do and how much you spend. As we say here the grass is not always greener over the fence, the dog that dropped his bone in the water because the reflected bone in the water looked bigger than the one in his mouth.

Looking back through previous quotes, you said the Explorer made your neck ache. There's minimal service on EV's, especialy with drum brakes on the rear (supposedly sealed for life), so I guess, not that valuable and fake leather is actually fake. But, all that said, it does seem that they've offered you a good deal. It's unfortunate timing for you really. Had you have known that your car would be available the week after next, you could have added some goodies. I guess it's down to what you're happy to live with for the next however many years. Good luck with that decision.

50mpg jeez my 1.8 Tsi 2 wheel drive does circa 30mpg driven sensibly 90% of the time and never thrashed

Had a bit of a curved ball today, ford dealer which I had previously visited to look at the explorer came back with a very similar price to the Elroq with a 5 year service plan, immediate deliver so would miss the luxury car tax Things over and above the Elroq is all leather (fake) electric tailgate matrix headlights and electric drivers seat Wish he had not served me such a curved ball

It can’t be. You said you had v306 updated to v330 - the version you’ve quoted here is version 324 so while it is RoW it’s not what has been installed. You need to find the v330 that you’ve shown in your screenshots as installed in the car.

Yep, OP is really lucky that the ballast is just mounted to the rear of the light unit. On the Mk2 non-facelift, it's mounted under the housing.. so the only way to get to it is a bumper off job, as I found out one winter's morning when the 'bulb out' warning lit up.

Any thoughts from people that had road tests over the weekend?

Thanks everyone, I swapped it out yesterday and beautiful silence ensues!!

Early this Saturday morning: Packed the wheels into the boot ready to head to a local tyre place. Booked an early slot to attempt to beat the rabble of traffic that wakes up and slows things down mid morning on weekends. 15 minutes later and a quick drive home: Tyres all fitted! Decided on a set of Continentals, AllSeasonContact 2 specifically, 225/55/17 for those interested, W speed 101 XL for the boffins. Normally, I would have got some Michelin CrossClimates (the same as currently on the 19s), but for all intents an purposes, the internet pretty much stated "they're newer, so they're better" and I pretty much just went for them based on that. Presumably, once Michelin release a CrossClimate 3, they'll be immediately top dog again. WIth a 15% discount from BlackCircles, the tyres came to £546.44. Whilst offloading, took the opportunity to weigh one up: So 16.9kg, so the tyre is a smidge over 10kg, I suppose as light as they're gonna get. Weights of actual tyres are actually never ever mentioned or considered in the scheme of things, which does seem amiss, I would be curious about whether there's a correlation between performance, profiles and other factors. Originally, the plan was to fit these at a later time, as I would need to source different wheel bolts, to transition from the ball seat to taper seat that aftermarket wheels would have. Fortunately though, the kind people at Driftworks where I purchased the wheels from threw in these alongside spigot rings: A set of tuner wheel bolts, which pretty much mean there's no obstacles. It's pretty much a standard wheel swap. I took the opportunity whilst jacking up the car to also fit these: These were purchased from lllparts ages ago, I think they're meant for things like Audi's or whatnot, and were mentioned in a few previous posts. Specifically that the intended part doesn't exist anymore, and previous posts suggest to trim these down, given they stick out a bit as per the pic above. I'm probably just going to leave them as is for now, as they actually help highlight where to jack at a glance. I believe I've tallied the rubber parts in an earlier post, so the other bits here came to £77.34 with shipping, so a bit on the expensive side. Just a case of pushing the rubber part into the holes on the underside, then slide the other part into the rubber: Then a jack is used to push the other part until it clicks into place in the rubber: So pretty much jack up a corner, take existing wheel off, set up the new wheel with the spigot ring, grease and whatnot and fit the new ones on. So new wheel on (much easier as much lighter!): Clearance of the caliper for the front: Then the other side: Torqued the bolts up to 140Nm, and then off to look at the wheel caps. The Bola wheel centre caps supplied with the wheels have a metal Bola branded disc of sorts attached to the cap with a sort of adhesive: So with some hacking with a craft knife, allowed some leverage to get the discs off: Then, stuck some random Skoda wheel stickers. These were 56mm stickers from AliExpress, £4.37: The stickers are a tiny bit larger than the caps, so 54mm would be the more appropriate size, but I reckon they'll be fine as is. If they don't and fly off, well, I'll just source smaller ones. Those just push fit: Done: Day trip out showed enough differences over bumps and ramps, and effectively Sport mode being as comfy as Comfort was with the 19s. Wife also found it much easier to keep going too fast on the motorway, so maybe the weight reduction has done something. Time will tell in regards MPG, hopeful of an improvement. Once home though, noticed a grinding when slowing down, and a whine when reversing. The rear left wheel was warm, and sure enough, some water over the brakes and they were steaming. So looks like the caliper is stuck, so I'll see if I can address that tomorrow. I'm loathed to spend any more money on the existing brakes as some other things are on the cards... Gave the old wheels a quick clean: Then lugged one of them into the house to weigh: So 23.55kg on the scales, so over 6.5kg a corner! So more than 26kg of unsprung weight saved, which I'm sure will mean all sorts of benefits. The 19s are in a horrid state, and with one slowly leaking air, all would need refurbishing, which would be a tiny bit more cost wise if there was a desire to keep them diamond cut. The tyres are probably usable for a few more months, though some have more wear on the inside of the tyres, which does suggest I should probably get the geometry checked. I'll stick them up for sale, hopefully for what is considered a bargain price... For now, the rear left caliper would be the current urgent thing to look at. Maintenance: £2370.22 Upgrades: £2994.25 (+£628.15) Miscellaneous: £820.07

Thanks, great information. I’ve never used mine off-road but where I live I’d be cut off at certain times due to snow if I didn’t have a set of winter tyres, I’ve just got to the stage I can’t be bothered changing over the wheels twice a year 🤦‍♂️. I was looking at Hankook or Kumho all seasons but I really like the look of your steel rims and the more aggressive looking tread on the Yeti. I’m thinking for the addition £350 odd I could have another set of rims. I can store the original rims with all the other sets I’ve accumulated 🤷‍♂️

Only if you change the Leuchte channel settings for the sidelight(s).

Dsg service is basically same for dsg dq250 or dq381. Yes do the filter as well. Need vcds or other scantool to verify correct dsg temp when filling. Or else level could be wrong aka dsg will face problems in the long run.

This is a difficult process and needs somebody who knows exactly what they are doing. Key steps are: Making sure all the old filter comes out, this is messy and very messy if you need to fish out the plastic end. The filters are known to fall apart. Draining the oil from both of the drain plugs. Removing the internal oil level setting pipe which is inside the bigger of the 2 drain plugs. Refilling the box using a gravity feed with the bottle of filling oil above the level of the gearbox. Warming the gearbox up to about 37C to 40C and gently exercising it using the gear shift. Getting the excess oil back out to get the oil level right. Give it to the outfit you trust the most or ask whoever is going to do it what the steps are.

Hi. I now tray retrofit my octavia 4 on screen 13". In unit MIB3 OI - 5e3035816 have diferent resolution on the screnn. for 13" must by change unit to MIB3GP 5h7035816. Only this unit have SFD2 protection. on foto 13" conecting to MIB3 OI

I couldn't agree more.