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Of all the possible reasons to leave this place, this seems unlikely. It's no different to navigate than it was before, as far as I can see. Yeah, the search function is clueless, but that's nothing new. I have to point out that using a website to make a statement announcing you're not going to use the website is somewhat contradictory, but pointing out contradictions is kinda my thing. 😋 Anyway, good luck with the new site! 👍

Happy Easter to you all on this glorious Easter Sunday 🐰🐣

The Citigo section is a subforum within the Briskoda Website forums. So not a one model Forum or Website with Owners or Club in the title. Oranges and Lemons, or pears.

I think they are situated there to catch water coming down the A pillars but couldn't say for definite. And they rust because of both reasons yeah. They would get blocked and water would lie where they are and spill over into the cab and then they would rot out. Those bits certainly look like the they go under the carpet. It should match up to the carpet at more than a couple of points. I would think the holes go into the foot well for the steering column and/or brake and clutch mechanisms.

Omg guys, thank you all for such comprehensive replies, you're awesome, happy Easter ❤️🐇 I regards to my car, unfortunately despite being pretty maxed our version it doesn't have DCC which I would love to install, but nobody in my area seems to have knowledge how to do it. I have mode button, but no DCC. Full specs are 1.8TSI CJSB DSG DQ250 4x4 haldex 5gen I just checked diameter of shocks 55mm Also adding kg for axels 10% stiffer sounds great 👍 P. S. Such springs would suit better with Bilstein B6 or B8 or maybe some other recommendation?

These details are extracted from the Kilen online spring catalogue. Do you have electronically controlled shock absorbers? Have you got a manual or automatic DSG gearbox? This makes a difference to the front springs because the automatic gearbox is heavier than the manual gearbox so the front springs are normally slightly stiffer to compensate for this. Do you want the lowered springs to be the same stiffness as the standard springs, about 5% stiffer, or about 10% stiffer. If you often fully load the car or don't mind a harder ride you will probably want 10% stiffer springs. However, if you normally don't carry much weight in the car and want to keep the ride comfort of the standard ride height springs it's possible to fit lowered ride height springs that have about the same stiffness as the standard ride height springs. For example, the lowered ride height springs on the Superb MK3 are about the same stiffness as the standard ride height springs. It could be useful if you could find out what the OEM part numbers are for the front and rear springs, ie. what the car left the factory with. It looks to me like Kilen has made a mistake with your car, as they are listing 5Q0511115G rear springs, which they also list for the front wheel drive car. This can't be right because the 4x4 uses stiffer rear springs than the equivalent front wheel drive car because of the extra weight over the rear axle of the 4x4 system. Octavia MK3 hatchback 1.8TSI 180PS front wheel drive DSG Front springs (standard ride height) 5Q0411105GL Front springs (lowered ride height) 5Q0411105HC Rear springs (standard ride height) 5Q0511115E Rear springs (lowered ride height) 5Q0511115Q Octavia MK3 hatchback 2.0TDI 184PS front wheel drive manual gearbox Front springs (lowered ride height) 5Q0411105HD Rear springs (lowered ride height) 5Q0511115Q Octavia MK3 hatchback 2.0TDI 184PS front wheel drive DSG Front springs (lowered ride height) 5Q0411105HF Rear springs (lowered ride height) 5Q0511115Q Octavia MK3 hatchback 2.0TDI 184PS 4x4 DSG Front springs (lowered ride height) 5Q0411105HF Rear springs (lowered ride height) 5Q0511115S Octavia MK3 estate 1.8TSI 180PS front wheel drive DSG Front springs (standard ride height) 5Q0411105GL Rear springs (standard ride height) 5Q0511115G Octavia MK3 estate 1.8TSI 180PS 4x4 DSG Front springs (standard ride height) 5Q0411105GL Rear springs (standard ride height) 5Q0511115G (Kilen might have made a mistake with this spring because it should be stiffer than the equivalent front wheel drive car) Octavia MK3 estate 2.0TDI 184PS 4x4 DSG Front springs (lowered ride height) 5Q0411105HF Rear springs (lowered ride height) 5Q0511115AA

As warrior says deffo looks like transfer ,a rub with some compound or t cut should remove it 😁

How, what, why? Did you report this on the threads which were created for this one of which is clearly show at the top of this page. This seems a bit unnecessary, ungrateful and even in my opinion spiteful - but you are free to put what you have and as "I am not a number I am a free man" (as No. 6 told us) so is my response to you. You seem to have the arrogant privileged attitudes of a self-acclaimed freeman, please go to where you feel more suited.

Interesting. I’m an old fart and the nav is exactly the same as it used to be which, like almost every other one, is pretty poor. To find something specific, I always use the Google site search EG site:briskoda.net now stick your search term in This generally gives the best results. Still if you’re set on leaving, seeya.

I've just finished converting the boot space of my UK-spec 2-wheel drive Karoq SE-L trim from a space saver spare wheel to a full-size share wheel. I thought I'd put some photos here, in case anybody else is thinking of doing something similar. When I bought our Karoq SE-L earlier this year, I wanted to order a full-size spare wheel, but it wasn't an option. The only option was a space-saver spare wheel. But I read on various forums that it's possible to fit the boot kit for a full-size spare, it just needs a bit of simple cutting of a polystyrene piece, which indeed turned out to be true. I think this is only a problem if your Karoq has the VarioFlex seats, because there is a handle on each seat which is inaccessible if you don't cut off some of this polystyrene. The UK model of SE-L trim comes with VarioFlex seats as standard, and 18" Braga style alloy wheels. The Skoda part number for this boot kit for full-sized spare wheel is 57A 093 860A. I paid £77.50 + VAT from my local Skoda dealer. It's a very big box! In photo number 01, you can see the original space-saver spare wheel in place. In photo number 02, you can see the contents of the kit, laid out on my garage floor. In photo number 03, you can see the main page of the instruction manual, showing all the different pieces . The original boot cover needs to be unclipped. You just need to lift up the VarioFlex seats to locate some plastic clips. Twist these plastic clips then pull them out. Then pull up the material which goes underneath the seats, so you can lift out the boot cover from off the pins. You can then put back the material which goes under the seats and put the clips back in place, because the new boot cover is not held down by these pins at all. In photo number 04, you can see the boot well with the old skinny wheel and the old boot floor removed. This photo was taken before I removed the old polystyrene insert. You can see that there is a plastic tubular piece in the centre, which stops the wheel from moving around. I thought that the kit for the full size wheel would have a taller plastic piece to support the boot floor at a higher level, due to the extra height from the full-size wheel, but it doesn't. The new kit came with exactly the same plastic part which was there already, so I just left the original one in place. In photo number 05, you can see the polystyrene piece which sits along the full width of the boot space, between the seat backs and the spare wheel. The two protrusions which you can see enable it to interlock with the two other polystyrene pieces. This polystyrene piece shows a VW part number of 575 863 496 A. In photo number 06, you can see the polystyrene piece which sits to the left of the spare wheel. It shows a VW part number of 575 863 495 E. In photo number 07, you can see the polystyrene piece which sits to the right of the spare wheel. It shows a VW part number of 575 863 496 J. This is the part which holds the jack, brace, and locking wheel nut etc. in place. There are some plastic clips which hold down the right and left polystyrene pieces ( 2 clips each). They attach to some protrusions in the metal underneath. You actually need a large Torx screwdriver to properly screw them on, but I didn't have one, so I just screwed them finger tight. From what I could see in the instruction manual, it looks like you get a tool to screw them down with the official spare wheel, but I didn't buy the official spare wheel. I bought a 2nd hand Braga alloy wheel from eBay, which is absolutely identical to the 4 other wheels. In photo number 08, you can see my full-size 18" Braga wheel sitting in the cavity, after the polystyrene pieces have all been put in place. After I took this photo, I still had to screw down the plastic cap which goes on top of the tubular part in the centre of the wheel, to hold the wheel firmly in place. The Skoda boot kit comes with a jack and a wheel brace, which go in the right-hand polystyrene piece. The brace looked identical to the one which I already had, but the jack was very slightly different (the base of it was a slightly different width). There is space to put other tools in the cavity in the left-hand polystyrene piece, and I also put loads of other tools etc. in the cavity in the centre of the spare wheel. In photo number 09, you can see along the rear of the VarioFlex seats , where I had to make a cutout in the polystyrene piece behind the handle of each seat. I also removed a thin slither of polystyrene along the fully length, just to stop it interfering with the seats when they are lifted up and put back down. In photo number 10, you can see the new boot floor which comes as part of the kit. It actually has a Seat part number on it, which is 575 863 463 D CA9. It has some triangular-shaped dense foam pieces in the corners, to hold it in place correctly. Overall, I think this Skoda boot kit for the full-size spare wheel is pretty good value. You get a lot of stuff for £77.50 + VAT. If you already have a space-saver spare wheel, you actually end up with some bits which you don't really need. For example, you'll get an additional wheel brace and jack, and an additional plastic part which screws the wheel down to the boot floor. If you're able to get the pieces individually, the ones which you really need, if you already have a space-saver spare wheel and jack etc., are the three VW polystyrene part numbers 575 863 496 A, 575 863 495 E, 575 863 496 J, plus the Seat boot floor part number 575 863 463 D CA9. I hope that this is helpful to some people out there.

-> next 2026 cross compatible on: Škoda Amundsen (MIB2), Seat Navi (MIB2), VW Discover Media2 (MIB2), Audi MMI ?-?-? (MIB2), MAN Media VAN Navigation started by @Mohrhuhn and tested by @Tell -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/522199-amundsen-mib2-map-updates-20242025/page/3/#findComment-5935550 # ECE AS(A1) 2025/26 16 Gb VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-AS_2410_V21.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-AS_2410_V21.7z Files inside: 2024.06.03 Downloadable: 2025.04.14 Published: 2025.--.-- Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_2410_EU-A1_202525.zip Files inside: 2024.06.03 Downloadable: 2025.05.31 Published: 2025.--.-- # ECE 1 2025/26 6.8 Gb VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU1_2410_V21.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU1_2410_V21.7z Files inside: 2024.06.03 Downloadable: 2025.04.14 Published: 2025.--.-- Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_2410_EU1_202525.zip Files inside: 2024.06.03 Downloadable: 2025.05.31 Published: 2025.--.-- # ECE 2 2025/26 6.8 Gb VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU2_2410_V21.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU2_2410_V21.7z Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_2410_EU2_202525.zip # ECE 3 2025/26 5.6 Gb VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU3_2410_V21.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU3_2410_V21.7z Škoda portal: - # ECE 4 2025/26 8.9 Gb VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-DL1_2410_V21.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-DL1_2410_V21.7z Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_2410_EU-DL1_202525.zip # ECE 5 2025/26 9 Gb VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-DL2_2410_V21.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-DL2_2410_V21.7z Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_2410_EU-DL2_202525.zip # ECE 6 2025/26 8.4 Gb VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-DL3_2410_V21.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-DL3_2410_V21.7z Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_2410_EU-DL3_202525.zip # ECE 7 2025/26 7.3 Gb VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-DL4_2410_V21.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-DL4_2410_V21.7z Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_2410_EU-DL4_202525.zip # ROW 1 2025/26 7.8 Gb VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_MRM1_2410_V21.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_MRM1_2410_V21.7z Škoda portal: - # ROW 2 2025/26 4.7 Gb VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_MRM2_2410_V21.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_MRM2_2410_V21.7z Škoda portal: - # ROW 3 2025/26 5.8 Gb VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_MRM3_2410_V21.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_MRM3_2410_V21.7z Škoda portal: - # MRM DL1 2025/26 6.4 Gb VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_MRM-DL1_2410_V21.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_MRM-DL1_2410_V21.7z Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_2410_ROW-DL1_202525.zip # MRM DL2 2025/26 1.5 Gb VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_MRM-DL2_2410_V21.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_MRM-DL2_2410_V21.7z Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_2410_ROW-DL2_202525.zip ======= coverage ======= # ECE AS(A1) Albania, Andorra, Austria, Belarus, Belgium, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Bulgaria, Croatia, Czech Republic, Cyprus, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Faroe Islands, Germany, Gibraltar, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Ireland, Italy, Kosovo, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Macedonia, Malta, Moldova, Monaco, Montenegro, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, San Marino, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Ukraine, United Kingdom, Vatican City State # ECE 1 Andorra, Belgium, Faroe Islands, France, Gibraltar, Iceland, Ireland, Ireland, Luxembourg, Monaco, Netherlands, Portugal, Spain, United Kingdom # ECE 2 Albania, Belarus, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Bulgaria, Cyprus, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Greece, Kazakhstan, Kosovo, Latvia, Lithuania, Macedonia, Moldova, Montenegro, Norway, Romania, Russian Federation, Serbia, Sweden, Ukraine # ECE 3 Austria, Croatia, Czech Republic, Germany, Hungary, Italy, Liechtenstein, Malta, Poland, San Marino, Slovakia, Slovenia, Switzerland, Vatican City State # ECE 4 Andorra, Austria, Belgium, Croatia, Czech Republic, France, Germany, Hungary, Italy, Liechtenstein, Luxembourg, Malta, Monaco, Netherlands, Poland, San Marino, Slovakia, Slovenia, Switzerland, Vatican City State # ECE 5 Andorra, Austria, Belgium, Croatia, Czech Republic, Faroe Islands (land-use only), France, Germany, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Liechtenstein, Luxembourg, Malta, Monaco, Netherlands, Poland, San Marino, Slovakia, Slovenia, Switzerland, United Kingdom (incl. Isle of Man), Vatican City State # ECE 6 Andorra, Belgium, Denmark, Faroe Islands (land-use only), Finland, France, Germany, Iceland, Ireland, Luxembourg, Monaco, Netherlands, Norway, Sweden, United Kingdom (incl. Isle of Man) # ECE 7 Albania, Austria, Belarus, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Estonia, Greece, Hungary, Italy, Kosovo, Latvia, Lithuania, Liechtenstein, Macedonia, F.Y.R.O., Malta, Moldova, Montenegro, Poland, Romania, San Marino, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Switzerland, Turkey, Ukraine, Vatican City State # ROW 1 Israel, Argentina, Brazil, Fr. Guyana *, Guadeloupe *, Martinique *, Mexico, Turkey * # ROW 2 India *, Chile * # ROW 3 Australia, New Zealand, Botswana *, Lesotho *, Mozambique *, Namibia *, South Africa, Swaziland *; Reunion *, Brunei, Indonesia *, Malaysia *, Philippines *, Singapore, Thailand, Egypt *, Algeria *, Bahrain *, Jordan *, Qatar *, Kuwait, Morocco, Oman *, Saudi Arbien *, Tunisia, United Arab Emirates * # MRM DL1 Argentina, Brazil, Mexico, French Guiana, Guadeloupe, Martinique # MRM DL2 Israel, Turkey ======= instruction ======= Don't ask me details, i have Columbus Mib2H. all what i know, files must be extracted to original(Škoda's) SD Card some questions have been already answered in previous treads: -> 2025 -> 2024/25 -> 2024 -> 2023/24 -> 2023 -> 2022/23 -> 2022 -> 2021 -> 2020 -> 2018/2019

Hello, I just received my new Skoda MK4 Combi L&K and I would like the rear lights to also be on during the day. Is this possible? Thank you for your feedback.

Yeti just went over 500,000 miles on the M1 on my way home from London to Llandudno. (Yeti 170 2.0 tdi) Work for the ambulance authority transporting people all over the country, hence the high miles. Gotta say it’s been brilliant in the nearly ten years of ownership. Obviously it’s had the regular service items like a couple of clutches, 2 EGR valves, new brakes and calipers all round and regular oil services every 10,000 miles. I did buy a 2017 EA288 2.0 tdi a couple of years back but it turned out to be a nightmare of epic proportions. The NOX sensor packed up, the ADBLUE system failed, the DPF blocked and the EGR valve failed. The inlet manifold blocked solid and the car was continuously in limp mode. I paid 12k for the car and ended up giving it away to webuyanycar for £2,500. Anyhow back to the 170. I have a knocking noise coming from the front left corner. Have changed strut top, shock absorber, brake pads and discs, ARB drop links. The ARB bushes are fine, it’s been on a ramp in a garage, all bushes are intact, no play in ANYTHING. Top and bottom ball joints are solid, wheel bearing fine. Any ideas out there ? My mechanic is stumped for an answer like myself.

ICOR LIMITEDCompany number 05278455 They have been around since 2004, 21 years so yes I would say so.

One blue dot and one brown dot is 5Q0411105GL, so Kilen got it right in their online spring catalogue.

Bilstein B6 are for standard ride height springs. Bilstein B8 are for lowered ride height springs. So go for Bilstein B8 with the lowered ride height springs, unless you are planning to change back to standard ride height springs at some point in the future. You won't need the 55mm buffers with the Bilstein B6/B8 because the buffers are built into these high quality shock absorbers. Bilstein B6/B8 without DCC have a superior mono-tube design, whereas Bilstein B6 with DCC have an inferior twin-tube design. So that's a big advantage in not having DCC.

These lowered ride height springs should be suitable for the Octavia MK3 1.8TSI 180PS estate 4x4 DSG. They should be similar to what Skoda would have fitted if the car had left the factory with lowered ride height springs. Remember to change the front buffers if changing from standard ride height springs to lowered ride height springs. 55mm buffers with OEM part number 1K0412303F should fit if you don't have electronically adjustable shock absorbers. The standard ride height front springs use buffers that have a length of about 70mm, so changing to these 55mm buffers will provide an extra 15mm of front suspension travel compared to using the old 70mm buffers. Lowered ride height front springs 5Q0411105HD Bilstein 37-293192 Kilen 23133 (same as Lesjofors 4085734) Lesjofors 4085734 (same as Kilen 23133) https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/5q0411105hd?supplier%5B%5D=246&supplier%5B%5D=85&supplier%5B%5D=253&supplier%5B%5D=16 Lowered ride height rear springs 5Q0511115AA Bilstein 36-301904 Kilen 63145 (same as Lesjofors 4285746) Lesjofors 4285746 (same as Kilen 63145) https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/5q0511115aa?supplier%5B%5D=246&supplier%5B%5D=16&supplier%5B%5D=253&supplier%5B%5D=85 55mm buffers for front shock absorbers 1K0412303F (not for electronically adjustable shock absorbers) https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/1k0412303f?supplier%5B%5D=10249

That’s very kind of you. Thank you.

Damn that was the only thing that worked for me after hours of scratching my head. Just got my sd card out of the car I'll upload you my whole file system to see if that works.

The warping of a 340x30mm disc brake takes some serious braking. Seeing as they're new, the warping in this instance is likely the uneven build up of material, that occurred during the bedding in process. I highly doubt the metal is actually warped - VBT are normally rather good. Both the mountain surface and piston questions are fair, but I still think they would be rubbing as the entire circumference of the disc passed through the caliper.

Personally I always use Gates timing belts and kits. Not sure who makes this one. Never had any problems with them but there are a few out there that are not worth the risk. Does it have a belt or chain? I thought the 1.4 was a timing chain. Someone on here will confirm. Alasdair

I had the same issue, have you formatted the card and extracted all the file from fresh? The solution was to copy a specific old file back onto the card and mine started working again, I'll try and find which one it is as I did it a while ago.

My only suggestions: Is it one of those noises that you'd swear was coming from an area, but turns out to be somewhere else? Might it not be suspension ? Brake caliper loose (unlikely), any exhaust parts knocking on the body of other parts, left a patient in the boot ?

A little progress, measured 12v on both the Black and blue Fakra connectors under the antenna, If you undo the screws on the rear center set belt attachment, there is enough view though that and with the back of the headliner released to see what you are doing. So removed the antenna , and up to my workshop with it removed the 6 torx screws and the sat nav is a separate module, no sign of any corrosion. Next lift the sat nav module and look under neath, first device looks like either a GaAsFet or bipolar which feeds a saw filter then to an IC which again no locatable in house code .Looking under a microscope, There is a fair bit of green dendrite growth on all the device legs, I cant find the in house device codes fro the devices., looks like condensation damage. So I've ordered a couple of sat nav modules off ebay at £6.99 each, which I will take apart to get the pcb module and fix that inside the antenna assembly

Hello all.... Another new member here, Finally moving over from the dark side (FORD) to the enlightened way, which as it turns out happens to be .in the shape of an Octavia VRS See you in the forums Gary

So, unless the DPF delete has been done in a manner that it is visually undetectable, that dealers MOT is probably worthless, I wonder what else the tester missed? Was this an 'approved used' vehicle?

Perfect! Thanks for the feedback! I will write you back about my experience Have a great Sunday!

No issues since June last year. Apart from this single issue, I think the 1.4TSI is a brilliant engine - although I wouldn't say no if I was offered a straight swap for a 2.0TSI 245! 😄

G12/13 pink only! Gas station..

Happy Easter. @Carlston might be the one with all the numbers.

I drive the 1.5 DSG and it'll return over 50 mpg on long runs at the legal limit and well over 40 mpg around town. I don't find I need to change driving mode, just a little prod on the throttle is sufficient. Bear in mind there were engine changes and only the EVO2 engine seems to have ironed out all the bugs.

I also looked through service history and glow plugs haven't been changed in the last 4 years maybe that ?

Yeah it's stop start this is my battery

I've got the same issue on my Skoda Kodiaq 1.4 TSI. Broken o-ring of one of my injector due to not screwed bolt. It was causing a fire on my car with my baby daughter inside! Which is the current status of this issue? I would like to go to a lawyer with all the possible information. Thanks!

Wow, that’s an amazing price and about what I paid in 2020. Can I ask where you live? I ask ‘cos in our case, there’s absolutely NO chance of getting anything like that with Aviva here in London. We’re a bit younger than both you, both on the policy with 5k annually and parked on the drive. Aviva quoted £926 last year with a compulsory £500 excess! The cheapest I’ve found in the last two years has been the site sponsor Chris Knott. It was £360 in ‘23 and £410 last year with protected NC and a £370 excess in both cases. I shop around every year and the market prices went insane from ‘22 when people began driving again in big numbers and it is still hardening. 🙄

@domhnall Could you explain please what 'the car supported by Octopus' actually means or intails'? EDIT. Got it, use of an app and car plugged in. House getting cheap tariff at same time as car. Not just fixed times, but fixed offpeak times still apply.

Today taking this thread back to where it all started again, taken me just over 12 years!

Can you tell us who your broker is then?

the price of the middle tier on powerpass hasjust come down to match ionity, now looks like good value

I'd take a guess that's paint transfer, try a gentle rub with car wash and cleaning pad - or a very gentle wipe with T-cut.

69% health still needs a good level of state of charge, a brand new battery can be "flat" - but in my mind a 2020 VW car is even more of a candidate for electric/electronic, computer systems/program issues. Program updates? I always promote preventative car battery charging, very occasionally full recharging with appropriate charger maintainer or as required, prevention is better than cure and that way you should get better and (much) longer useable service from the battery and not become a statistic in the No. 1 cause of recovery breakdown callouts. Of course we haven't covered if the car has had full and timely "service" and "maintenance" as per VW's schedule (minimal though they are), has the car had all its annual engine oil and filter changes done on time/distance, engine air filter changed (and perhaps airbox and ducting cleaned), a good possibly for issues have the spark plugs been changed. I think it's 2019 Fabias with the throttle bodies that play up, might be 2020, I forget, and it might depend if early or late 2020. But it might just be a one-off. If it happens again as already put a full scan tool health report might help plus if possible live data can be very useful. For best results your friend's reader/scan tool does need to have a program on it appropriate to VW and your model and year (or VIN) and this program should be up to date before use on your car (some folk are too lazy to bother) and a reasonable state of charge on the car's 12v battery is required, and if appropriate a reasonable state of charge to the scan tool battery, otherwise out of date programs and low battery charge(s) can give spurious readings and results. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

Hi. Hoping to get some knowledge and advice from you guys.

I find it the other way round. We have already met there as I have an UP. Just watch out for the Bird people of Brontitall. Thanks. AG Falco

Update from the links which are posted in this forum - after backing up the current contents onto a PC or Mac. The latest cards are 32GB but if you don't need an all Europe map there is no need for the larger card.

I am with you in that the Yeti is a very difficult car to replace and had one of the last 2017 1.2 DSG SEL Drive’s with memory drivers seat, heated windscreen etc. It was my second Yeti and loved it ......... but driving a more modern engineered car one couldn’t help noticing that technology had advanced since the Yeti was launched in 2009. Thought long and hard and tested many, many alternatives including the Skoda Kamiq which was supposed to be a Yeti sized contender - it isn’t, its just a modified VW homologation that is a big disappointment. Why Skoda didn’t model the Kamiq on an updated Yeti seems nuts to me, instead of retaining all the best attributes of the Yeti in a more modern design all VAG models are simply variations on a narrow theme now. After many road tests and great thought eventually changed Yeti for a MINI Countryman, a bit 'left field’ like the Yeti but has all the modern technology available - but easily turned off if I want. Generally I leave it all ‘on’ as it is unobtrusive while driving yet does offer some real advantages - the semi autonomous driving mode is great on long motorway journeys - combines variable speed control with autonomous steering (keeps car mid lane automatically) and in stop go traffic it stops and goes totally automatically - sounds silly but it is great in actual traffic situations. Comfortable and quieter ride than Yeti as well. The Yeti was probably my favourite car of the many I have had over 60 years of motoring, but technology and safety levels move on and realistically we must move on with those advances while appreciating the beauty of the previous generations - like the Yeti.

Agree with @Carlston You're maybe thinking of the common Mk3/3.5 move from 225/40R18 to 235/35R19 - in which case, yes, a drop in profile is needed. In order to drop down to a 35 profile, you'd want to be moving to a 255 or even 265 section. Similarly, to go up to a 45 profile, you'd be wanting a 200 tyre - it's quite a big difference! 235 is the maximum tyre that can fit on a 7.5J rim. It is recommended to have a 215/225. You don't want to be doing maximums or minimums for anything tyre related. On a 7.5J, a 205 will be stretched which will cause issues. 235 on a 7.5J is approaching instability territory IMO - the sidewall of the tyre is having to do more work. For a 235/245 section tyre, you're better off with an 8.5" wheel IMO. Some cars (Karoq, etc) have 19x8" wheels, but AFAIK the Octavia is a 19x7.5". Lot's of people put 235s on a 7.5J wheel - be it on a Cupra, GTI, R, S3 or whatever, but that doesn't mean it's right. There's a reason VW ships the cars with 225. You won't notice the difference going from 225 to 235. Go from 225 on a 7.5J to 245 on an 8.5J and yes, there'll be a change - and not always a good one. TLDR - absolutely increase tyre width if you want better grip, but you'll need to increase the wheel width to suit. @OP I would stick with 225/40R19. You aren't going to get anything that offers any benefit - stick some nice PS5s on it instead.

Of course, although in this case that's not relevant. Performance pads can make noise either due to the compound, or simply because they don't have any shims or other NVH-reducing bits on them. I've found DS2500 to be quite good all rounders, but I had terrible noise from previous Yellowstuff pads in traffic. Yes, although this would cause them to rub all the time (in theory), if it was a stuck piston or something. I agree with @Ootohere - there's a reason garages use those hub cleaner wire brushes. OP, if you're sure that the discs aren't warped (they are new IIRC) then it might be worth investing in a hub cleaner bit for your power drill. Rather than taking the disc off, you could try (if you have one to hand) getting a laser level and trying it that way. I use one on mtb rotors.

Going to add for a dealer that's not a bad price, my local indie was £205 for the oil and filter.

Apparently neither VCDS nor OBDeleven are capable of programming the remote key-fobs used with recent-ish VAG Group vehicles. An ODIS system is required, which means either using an 'official' VAG group dealership or a business specialising in VAG Group vehicles.

Hi All, Hope you're all staying safe and healthy. This is taking some time, and I still have the speakers to do, but just wanted to post some pics and info on the system upgrade I'm currently working on. The standard system isn't too bad, but I wanted to improve things without changing the original display, nor have visual evidence of different speakers. I've already spent some time Dynamatting the boot floor, spare wheel well, tailgate, under rear seat bench, bonnet and front doors, and just have the rear doors and rear quarter panels to do. As such, my research lead me to a German brand, Audiotec-Fischer; they do plug and play systems for the main German car brands, and their Match range has various amplifiers, speakers, subs, wiring harnesses & looms designed to just drop in - the main systems are for BMW. Unfortunately, they've discontinued the VW specific 6.5" component speakers, which have the exact same mounting for the tweeter in the front doors, so I went for their Helix F 62C 6.5" components. I also had a look at Focal, as they make a specific VW component set, but the connectors/wiring in VW is different to Skoda, so they aren't plug and play for us either. I really liked the look of these, as the tweeter fittings are the same, and the speakers include the deep baskets for the mid-bass drivers. I went for the M5 DSK Mk2 amp, which can be mounted virtually anywhere, as it runs cool and has a tiny footprint. It's also configurable via a laptop to enable so many settings it's a bit mind-boggling! The amp install's been pretty straightforward with the harness and loom in place; I plugged it all, switched the headunit on...and it worked! I was able to remove 28 wires from the plug and play harness, as it's a generic VAG compatible unit, so everything's wired - by my reckoning, it was about 8.5m of little wires acting as aerials I got rid of! The increase in performance was really good; a lot more grip, control, detail, and obviously louder at the same volume level. Not satisfied with that, I bought a Rockford Fosgate amp wiring kit, and ran a direct power feed from the battery to enable 'high output' mode. This is one of the programmable settings, and there's a warning in the manual not tenable it with the standard loom, as the current draw can peak at 40 amps and damage the existing wiring loom! Thanks to @JohnnyType2's excellent write up on his install, I was able to find the loom through the bulkhead, and whilst I'd planned to use that, directly below I discovered another part of the rubber grommet directly below protruding for a wiring loom that my car doesn't have! I made a tiny hole, fed a draw wire (a straightened coat hanger!) through from inside the car, taped the cable to it, and pulled it back through into the car. Oddly, the negative cable was only 18" long, so whilst I couldn't get this onto the battery, I put it onto the mounting point for the dashboard. With loom fitted, and amp connected, I switched the system on...and nothing! Total schoolboy error, I'd connected positive & negative around incorrectly (too much time out in the heat I think), once connected correctly, I tried again and nothing. Thankfully, it was just the fuse in the amp's wiring harness that got taken out, and not the amp... Fuse replaced, all was working as it should, phew! Next was to connect the laptop, and enable the high output mode. It was very easy to do, and nice that you get warnings before enabling the high output mode. All settings changes are live, so you can hear what you're doing - I thought I was saving the file name with the date, pressed '2' and that disabled output channel '2'/front right, pressing 2 again enabled it! The difference between the two output modes was night and day, significantly better than plug and play/low output mode. There's even more control and detail - hard to believe I'm still running the standard speakers actually! I just took the photos below, with the software in demo mode - it was too bright yesterday to take any pics of the screen. The images below are of all the other setup pages; crossover and equaliser, input/output configuration, time alignment & real time audio analyser - I think you plug a microphone into the computer and it'll do 'room' correction as you find in home cinema and some high end audio amplifiers! The amp is five channel, and has a separate sub output, this can also be configured for a centre channel if you don't have a sub...as our cars have the centre speaker mount for the Canton system, I might just buy a cheap speaker to try this out; the bass response with just the standard speakers is fine for me, but it's good to have options. Configured for now, I put some anti rattle tape and velcro strips on the amp, stuck it in place behind the screen (it's a 30 second job to pop the screen out if I want to make changes to the amp settings), and then cable-tied it to keep it in tight: Thanks for reading this, and I'll update when I get the speakers in! Cheers, Nick